Ford 1210 Hydraulic Leak Down

[shannondurst]

Jc
I have done everything to this ford 1700 I even got a used control valve and swapped out, and still today when operating my 1700 , when the tractor starts to get to operating Temps I start to loose my hydraulics and this is Texas weather so its hot , if I let it sit and cool down for hours it will work again , I am using the universal m2c134a oil , I think its thinning to much, when the tractor gets hot i loose hydraulics completely, can i use a 90 weight something thicker that doesn't thin out after it gets hot????

 

[JC-jetro]

Jc
I have done everything to this ford 1700 I even got a used control valve and swapped out, and still today when operating my 1700 , when the tractor starts to get to operating Temps I start to loose my hydraulics and this is Texas weather so its hot , if I let it sit and cool down for hours it will work again , I am using the universal m2c134a oil , I think its thinning to much, when the tractor gets hot i loose hydraulics completely, can i use a 90 weight something thicker that doesn't thin out after it gets hot????

I really don't think you should use anything but Ford 134 or equal. Your pump is not designed to pump 90 weigh oil even in heat of Texas. You could use 90 weigh for front axle if your have 4WD. You just do not want to damage your pump under any conditions, the rest needs just to be figured out. Now one question, as the rig is approaching hi temp and just before you lose hydraulic, can you lift something with your 3 points and then turn the tractor off. If so, then would it leak down or your implement stays up where you left it? that is an important question to begin diagnosis. Do you have 0-3000 psi , liq filled hyd gauge for testing purpose. when was the last time you changed your oil and cleaned suction screen ? have you ever changed the piston seal? and so are you sure you oriented it correctly in the piston groove?

 

[sld]

Just called the local dealer and he only showed 2 in the system, both in Dallas. I had him order one for the 48 bucks. Not a big deal if it lasts another 30 years and it is the right part. Again, thank for all the help!

 

[shannondurst]

Yes when temp gets to middle of gauge I loose the bucket controls then I loose the 3 point, the 3 point never drops it hold and yes I have replaced the seal and its correct. I have put a gauge on it and the psi is set at 2000 psi , just odd how everything works when its cold.

 

[JC-jetro]

Just called the local dealer and he only showed 2 in the system, both in Dallas. I had him order one for the 48 bucks. Not a big deal if it lasts another 30 years and it is the right part. Again, thank for all the help!

well, that's okay, cost of doing business, do make sure that you orient the seal right the first time. Once it seat in the groove then it ain't coming out undamaged to be flipped correctly. Good luck.

 

[JC-jetro]

Yes when temp gets to middle of gauge I loose the bucket controls then I loose the 3 point, the 3 point never drops it hold and yes I have replaced the seal and its correct. I have put a gauge on it and the psi is set at 2000 psi , just odd how everything works when its cold.

Ok, that's good since your lift piston seal holds. Look at the attached pic,rig up your gauge kike that, start with cold tractor, run it with something on 3 point raised high. Then take a note of pressure with cold engine, as it heats up record the pressure while the 3 point is not manipulated along with the loader bucket off of the ground. Let's just do that to see what you read. it just might be that your hyd pump is old and tired. That's the situation happened to me and then 12 years ago I was able to find overhaul kit and fixed the pump without further damage.

I am not saying your pump is bad yet but trying to sort things out. I am sure you do not have quick connect on the loader to remove the loader hyd circuit. is that correct?

 

[Tinhack]

I just put the piston back in the cylinder for my 3910 this morning. A little different than the 1210. The worst part is the weight of the parts. I had to use my engine hoist to remove the top housing. (I'm old.) Mine was so bad, the piston could slide through the cylinder under it's own weight! Even being that bad, it would still lift. Noisy and bouncy but it would lift. I'm feeling pretty confident about the 3-remote valve and T-n-T cylinders I'll be adding. :cool2:

 

[shannondurst]

Hyd pump is new, and this is same issue with the old pump, let me ask when you do your adjustments you adjust relief valve psi first then you move the lever to the highest lifting position then you adjust the control valve until the relief valve stops so wouldn't i have o psi then ? With the implement raised i have 500 psi then when you gets hot it is 0 then tries to fluctuate from 0 to 500 psi, yes oil has been changed multiple times and filter cleaned several times also ???

 

[JC-jetro]

Hyd pump is new, and this is same issue with the old pump, let me ask when you do your adjustments you adjust relief valve psi first then you move the lever to the highest lifting position then you adjust the control valve until the relief valve stops so wouldn't i have o psi then ? With the implement raised i have 500 psi then when you gets hot it is 0 then tries to fluctuate from 0 to 500 psi, yes oil has been changed multiple times and filter cleaned several times also ???

I don't know if I fully follow your statements.

Look at the pics below. Have you ever messes and adjusted the feed back link from lift arm to spool valve?



Your hyd system is open center, meaning you have full flow thru your pump all the time as long as engine is on. You would have flow and pressure to raise your hyd lift sytem. Once you achieve the desired lift then the feed back arm moves the spool to bypass and all unused fluid gets back to differential and to pump section and this thing happens continuously without stop. The pressure adjustment comes before spool valve. The spring tension on the relief can be adjusted up and down and that what sets pump pressure. This has nothing to do with the position of lift arm. Your system pressure should be around 2200 psi or so and I set mine at 2000 as that is enough for me to lift my implement. if the tractor is running and your pressure where I showed the gauge is 500 psi then your relief is not set right. You adjust the pressure by adjusting the spring pressure tight just short of 2200 psi gauge reading, more than that the poppet valve would chatter and dumps the oil back to the diffy.

Is 500 psi with the engine off and implement hanging ? the weight if implement against the oil in the cylinder will cause some static pressure reading with the engine off. Do you have a loader circuit? I am thinking you might be diverting flow somehow constantly back to diffy. is there any after market hyd equipment there ? and so , how is it plumbed?

Bottom line, with engine on, no matter where any control valve position is the pressure reading should be around 2000 psi. See if you can elaborate your questions bit better.

 

[shannondurst]

Yes thats what I was saying I have adjusted the link , and when you adjust it should it read 2000 psi , the adjustment is confusing it said after adjusting you turn the link 1 more time then connect it and when I do that I have 500 psi, I have seen these pics before and my adjustment is very similar to the pics.