New trailer, farm and on-road use

[PA452]

Thinking about getting a new (or used) single-axle trailer. Intended use on-road would be hauling an ATV or side-by-side, or maybe a lawn tractor occasionally, as well as other miscellaneous smaller/lighter things. Intended use off road is on some large trails and farm roads around fields pulled by a tractor, for things like firewood, storm clean-up, and lots of other random misc uses.

This is a bit of a tall order, but I'm thinking of the following criteria ideally:

• 12' in length
• 5200# axle (Not sure if this is necessary over a 3500# axle. Off-road I could see loading the trailer up with firewood and getting beyond the load rating of a 3500# with a 12' deck maybe?)
• Swivel jack rather than fixed position. (While I don't intend to take this on terrain too rough, I can easily see situations where a fixed jack might hit the ground while moving on uneven terrain.)
• No/minimal exposed wiring. (Again, don't plan on dragging this through the woods, but maybe through an unmowed field with the tractor.)
• No beaver tail. (Again, a beaver tail I'd expect would hit the ground at times.)
• Landscape style rails and ramp. (I have a dual axle landscape trailer and really prefer this setup.)

One other thing that would be nice, but will make it just that much harder to get... I see a lot of trailers out there with a fold-up ramp on the front side of the trailer for loading an ATV sideways on the front. Well I've also seen them with ladder-style ramps that slide in place to form the landscape rails on both sides of the front of the trailer. That seems like a near perfect solution to me. It would let me load an ATV sideways on the front, gives me generally a short rail all the way around when I want it, but also let's me load a pallet with forks onto the front from the side.

I feel reasonably confident in what I want, more just looking for ideas and things I haven't thought of. One thing I've never done is pull a trailer of this type with a tractor. Was figuring on getting one of those 3ph receiver hitches rather than using the draw bar. What I like about the 3ph receiver idea is I figure if ever the trailer would start to push the tractor while going down a hill, you can drop the 3ph. I'm sure it would make a mess of things, but at least it would probably stop.

Thoughts?

 

[Aquamoose]

Quick thoughts...

1 - Have you considered owning two different types of trailers? Each would be dedicated to its purposes.

2 - Wiring & light fixtures can be protected well. Either specify prior to the build or improve from one chosen on the lot.

3 - Use a draw bar, using a 3ph with a ball is asking for trouble. You can’t “drop” the 3ph fast enough when things gets wiry and when it does, the trailer will push up the rear and of your tractor and you’ll loose traction very quickly. Wise folks who uses 3ph ball hitches use them on level grounds for moving trailers around.

 

[3Ts]

There are several trailer manufacturers that make the side loading trailers, but you'll have to order one with gives you the option to get all the other things you want. Quotes I'm getting for trailer build times are running in the 2 months time frame for a dump trailer.

As for the jack, mine is welded on by the manufacturer and was a problem so I cut off the bottom with a hacksaw.

 

[jaxs]

None of what you named is difficult to order but side loading capability raise's cost consideriably because of need for different main frame. As for towing a loaded two wheel trailer with a tractor,drawbar with stabalizer links to where top link ordinarly hook's is better than 3 point recievers I've seen. The main problem is preventing tongue from flying up while stopping,going over rough terrain and loading wheeled vehicles. I use a swinging drawbar most of time but it doesn't alow turning short as I would like.

 

[TimberXX]

See this.

2 Sure Trac 7x18' Manual Tilt Car Trailer 7# GVW * DIAMOND PLATE FENDERS * 5" TUBE TONGE/FRAME * SEALED WIRING HARNESS * 7K SET BACK JACK * STAKE POCKETS/D-RINGS/RUBRAIL * REMOVABLE FENDER * UNDER FRAME BRIDGE | Best Choice Trailers & RVs | Locations in Pittsburgh & Harrisburg Area

Sure it's not perfect.

Its has a tube frame that protects wires. Flat sides for side loading, you can put a cheap set of ramps on the side. No beaver tail, but since it tilts, it's similar to a landscape trailer. You can always change the jack to a boat style bolt on one.

Best of luck.

 

[Peter 315]

I guess it depends where you live I would not get a tube frame around here they rust from the inside out.........:2cents:

 

[PA452]

See this.

22 Sure Trac 7x18' Manual Tilt Car Trailer 7# GVW * DIAMOND PLATE FENDERS * 5" TUBE TONGE/FRAME * SEALED WIRING HARNESS * 7K SET BACK JACK * STAKE POCKETS/D-RINGS/RUBRAIL * REMOVABLE FENDER * UNDER FRAME BRIDGE | Best Choice Trailers & RVs | Locations in Pittsburgh & Harrisburg Area

Sure it's not perfect.

Its has a tube frame that protects wires. Flat sides for side loading, you can put a cheap set of ramps on the side. No beaver tail, but since it tilts, it's similar to a landscape trailer. You can always change the jack to a boat style bolt on one.

Best of luck.

Thanks, already have a dual axle trailer though.

I'm thinking a single axle trailer would be better in the fields and such when pulled behind a tractor. For example, I envision being in a field, trailer loaded with firewood, pulling with a tractor over uneven terrain in a near 90° turn. Just seems like a single axle trailer is going to handle that sort of use a little more gracefully.

 

[PA452]

Good advice on the 3ph vs draw bar guys, thanks. I hadn't thought of the fact that there's nothing keeping the tongue from lifting up on the 3ph.

What do you guys think about the 5200# axle on a single axle trailer? They seem to be like unicorns, definitely something that would need ordered. But then I started wondering if it's really worth it. In the situations where I'd be pushing the weight capacity limits, I'd be pulling it with a tractor at low speeds. I'm wondering if that affords me a little more capacity. I figure they're designing a 3500# axle to handle the stated loads and deal with a pothole or rough hit at highway speeds. But in this situation, while it would be on uneven terrain, it would be very slow and easy when used with a heavy load.

 

[TimberXX]

I understand the single axle trailer advantages. I love my single axle.

I would go to a custom trailer builder.

 

[TimberXX]

This will be harder to side load, but based on often you sideload, you can use cribbing to make a flat area.

2 Lamar 79x12' Single Axle Scissor Hauler Gravity Tilt Equipment Trailer 7# GVW * 7# TORSION AXLE* STEEL FLOOR 3/16 * WRAPPED SIDES * EXTRA D-RINGS * SPARE MOUNT * CHARCOAL * FULL FRAME * 16" 1-PLY TIRES * ADJUSTABLE COUPLER * DROP JACK | Best Choice Trailers & RVs | Locations in Pittsburgh & Harrisburg Area

 

[TimberXX]

The torsion axles would be better off road.

 

[PA452]

This will be harder to side load, but based on often you sideload, you can use cribbing to make a flat area.

22 Lamar 79x12' Single Axle Scissor Hauler Gravity Tilt Equipment Trailer 7# GVW * 7# TORSION AXLE* STEEL FLOOR 3/16 * WRAPPED SIDES * EXTRA D-RINGS * SPARE MOUNT * CHARCOAL * FULL FRAME * 16" 1-PLY TIRES * ADJUSTABLE COUPLER * DROP JACK | Best Choice Trailers & RVs | Locations in Pittsburgh & Harrisburg Area

Some things I like about that one actually, but it's a little more than I'd like to spend without getting more of exactly what I want.

I like the look of this one (link below). Just a question of is the capacity insufficient for my use. I'll easily get over that listed payload capacity occasionally with firewood or a water tote. But like I was saying before, we're not talking about rolling down the road at highway speeds with it when hauling that kind of weight. It would be very low speed, easy pulling with a heavy load behind a tractor. On the road, I'd never have a reason to carry a really heavy load on it. Probably just wishful thinking though.

2 Lamar 7x12' ATV Utility Landscape Trailer 299# GVW * ATV RAMPS * CHARCOAL * CAST COUPLER * SEALED COLD WEATHER HARNESS * 4" CHANNEL FULL WRAP TONGUE * STAKE POCKET TIE DOWNS * 2X2" TUBE GATE C/M * SPRING ASSIST GATE * SWVIEL JACK | Best Choice Trailers & RVs | Locations in Pittsburgh & Harrisburg Area

 

[TimberXX]

Overloaded and offroad is quiet a spectrum.

Personally I take my single axle dump in the woods and through a rough field, while overloaded by about 10 to 15 percent. It's a rough rutted surface and you feel and hear the truck and trailer flex alot. The trailer has a tenancy to shove the truck alot. But it works. I do this 4 or 5 times per year. The trailer coupler is also a huge item most folks do not consider. I max out the articulation of my standard 2 inch coupler everytime. I've committed to only get an adjustable coupler in the future so I can use a pintle off road, and switch to a ball coupler with two bolts for road use, that lamar equipment tilt has that type of coupler. Personally, I think and overloaded trailer is worse off road, than on road.

With that being said, a water tote filled is 2400 lbs, and a cord of work is about the same. You will be about 37 percent overload, I would think that would be ok occasionally, but that depends what occasionally is, and how rough your surface is. Folks on TBN to upsell way to often, which I try not to do. But consider a leaf spring hardware repair, spindle repair, in your price deliberation.

 

[bcp]

The military rates trailers for a lighter load when used off-road.



Bruce

 

[PA452]

The military rates trailers for a lighter load when used off-road.

View attachment 664303 View attachment 664302

Bruce

Interesting, thanks for posting that. Still, I have to figure when they came up with the cross-county payload rating, they were figuring it potentially moving at traveling speeds. I'd be moving at a slow creep pulling with a tractor. Not saying I'd be good to go, but I'm not sure if it's entirely comparable.

That pic leads me to question something though. For the trailer I linked above, the GWVR is listed at 2990#. That's the weight of the trailer plus the payload. But are you supposed to subtract the weight being applied to the tongue supported by the tow vehicle hitch?

 

[PA452]

Overloaded and offroad is quiet a spectrum.

Personally I take my single axle dump in the woods and through a rough field, while overloaded by about 10 to 15 percent. It's a rough rutted surface and you feel and hear the truck and trailer flex alot. The trailer has a tenancy to shove the truck alot. But it works. I do this 4 or 5 times per year. The trailer coupler is also a huge item most folks do not consider. I max out the articulation of my standard 2 inch coupler everytime. I've committed to only get an adjustable coupler in the future so I can use a pintle off road, and switch to a ball coupler with two bolts for road use, that lamar equipment tilt has that type of coupler. Personally, I think and overloaded trailer is worse off road, than on road.

With that being said, a water tote filled is 2400 lbs, and a cord of work is about the same. You will be about 37 percent overload, I would think that would be ok occasionally, but that depends what occasionally is, and how rough your surface is. Folks on TBN to upsell way to often, which I try not to do. But consider a leaf spring hardware repair, spindle repair, in your price deliberation.

Good info, thanks. Being able to swap out between a ball and a pintle is something I never considered.

On the tote, I suppose I could just not completely fill the tote. Keep it to say 225 gallon or less and see how it does.

 

[aczlan]

Interesting, thanks for posting that. Still, I have to figure when they came up with the cross-county payload rating, they were figuring it potentially moving at traveling speeds. I'd be moving at a slow creep pulling with a tractor. Not saying I'd be good to go, but I'm not sure if it's entirely comparable.

That pic leads me to question something though. For the trailer I linked above, the GWVR is listed at 2990#. That's the weight of the trailer plus the payload. But are you supposed to subtract the weight being applied to the tongue supported by the tow vehicle hitch?

That 2990# rating is probably because most states require brakes on trailers rated for over 3000#.

As I understand it, trailer GVWR is the weight on the axles, it doesn't count weight on the hitch.

Aaron Z

 

[PA452]

That 2990# rating is probably because most states require brakes on trailers rated for over 3000#.

As I understand it, trailer GVWR is the weight on the axles, it doesn't count weight on the hitch.

Aaron Z

Ohh, hadn't thought of that. I did think 2990# was kind of an goofy rating to build it to with a 3500# axle.

That trailer I linked might be more of an option than I thought in that case. Let's say it could handle the full axle weight in reality, that would give it a payload capacity of 2,285#, which would equate to over 260 gallons of water. So I could maybe use a 275 gallon tote to near full capacity. More wishful thinking maybe.

 

[Jstpssng]

I guess it depends where you live I would not get a tube frame around here they rust from the inside out.........:2cents:

I don't think that's because we're in the rust belt, either. They weld them up tight so when condensation forms the water has nowhere to go. I bought a used set of Katahdin racks for my pickup, made from square tubing; I had to shrink them to fit my Ranger and when I did the water ran right out. One solution might be to put a couple of drain holes in the bottom.

On a similar note; back when vehicles were all rear wheel drive, drive shafts were commonly reused for making pickup bumpers. I had people telling me they were filled with a gas, because they "exploded" when putting a torch to them. What really happened of course, was that the heat caused the air to compress and it escaped with some force when released.

2900 lbs may be accurate for a cord of dry softwood, but if you haul green hardwood expect a cord to weigh closer to 5000.

 

[TimberXX]

That 2990# rating is probably because most states require brakes on trailers rated for over 3000#.

As I understand it, trailer GVWR is the weight on the axles, it doesn't count weight on the hitch.

Aaron Z

correct.