Looking for my First Tractor

[camsoup02]

Hello All,

Been lurking here for awhile. Decided to sign up and ask about tractor selection.

Our property is in northern CA, about 2 hours north of Sacramento. We are in the western "foothills". Acreage is just about 11.5 acres total, 2.5-3 of that is level around the house. The remaining acreage is rolling oak woodlands, with a fair amount of manzanita. Slopes range from gradual to moderate/steep on occasion.

I'm looking to maintain the 2.5-3 acres around the house. I will need to maintain about 300+/- feet of driveway and circular drive, keep the field mowed for fire breaks and have a fair bit of manzanita and other brush to remove. There is on old track that leads to the end of the property, I would like to improve it to the point a pickup can travel when its dry. One other factor is tilling approx 1/4 to 1/2 acre in total, for gardens, food plots, fruit trees etc.

Whichever tractor is chosen, we will start with a FEL, box blade, rotary mower and a PTO tiller. I'm looking at tractors in the 25-35 HP range. Ive looked at JD, Branson Mahindra and Kioti in person. Truly local Dealers (less than 25 mi) sell Branson, Mahindra and Kioti. Stepping out to the 50-75 miles range includes JD, LS and New Holland. I like the idea of a dealer within 25 miles, but open to the idea of the other brands with a dealer in the 50-75 mile range.

I'm looking at a Branson 2515 or 3520 and the Kioti CK2610 or CK3510 currently. I cant decide if the slightly smaller 15 series Branson is enough tractor (even though it weighs more than the kioti's). One thing about the Branson(s) I like is the 2200 or 2700lb lift capacity on the loaders, there is a chance in the future I will need to move super totes of chicken or cattle feed.

I'm also open to other recommendations based on our property description. I'm not sold on any one brand, also realize that sometimes "buying" the dealer is the deciding factor. Would like to keep the price of tractor and listed implements under or as close to 30k as possible. Which seems likely with LS, Branson or Kioti. Maybe not so easy with Mahindra, JD or NH.

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

 

[3gunr]

Sounds like you are on the right track. Any of those machines listed will get the job done. I would probably go up to the 30 to 35 hp range you wont be sorry.The smaller machines will just take a little longer.

 

[Roadworthy]

I like the criteria you have of "buying the dealer". One other things to look at really hard is tractor complexity. I determined 25 horsepower was a maximum for me when I learned above that they have something called EPA Tier 4 pollution requirements. This means a computer and a diesel particulate filter among other stuff to complicate my life. No thanks. Some of these Tier 4 tractors go with no problem "forever". Others are a perpetual headache. I'm not a gambler, I stayed simple. I mow ten acres, by the way, move big rocks, an whatever.

 

[shooterdon]

When I went through the process last year, I decided it was silly to buy a New Holland made by LS and pay thousands more. I was all set to buy the 3000 series LS and for a bit more money decided to go with the 4000 series...it was the right decision. Not many people wish for a smaller machine.

Think seriously about a cab. Unlike the other name brands, a cab on the LS is only $4000 more. Well worth it IMHO.

Whatever you decide, check out the dealer. A good dealer makes a difference.

 

[fried1765]

I like the criteria you have of "buying the dealer". One other things to look at really hard is tractor complexity. I determined 25 horsepower was a maximum for me when I learned above that they have something called EPA Tier 4 pollution requirements. This means a computer and a diesel particulate filter among other stuff to complicate my life. No thanks. Some of these Tier 4 tractors go with no problem "forever". Others are a perpetual headache. I'm not a gambler, I stayed simple. I mow ten acres, by the way, move big rocks, an whatever.

"Buying the dealer".
Sometimes the dealer closes his doors. You then loose some of the value that you paid for.
The tractor is a hard consumer item!
The dealer can be a crap shoot.

 

[3Lfarms]

Daves Tractor in Red Bluff is a contributor here and it a respected dealership. Should not be too far from you.

Manzanita is tough to deal with since it is so tough. I suggest a piranha tooth bar to help pop them up before they get too big. Driving over that stuff can damage a tractor if it is not kept short.

 

[rademamj1]

I don't think you can go wrong choosing any of the subcompact tractor brands on the market today. They are just so reliable, and you probably wont see your dealer but once every 3 years, and that for service only. All parts can be ordered online.

For your work area size, i agree with you in keeping it at 35hp and less, and preferably at 25hp. Regarding tires, I went with industrial R4 tires when I got my tractor, which have worked out well, but i do regret the constant damage they do to the ground. Recommend you consider radial R3 turf tires for your tractor, which are steel belted, low pressure turf friendly tires. They will handle tilling, mowing, snow removal, and loader work very well.

 

[ericm979]

Dave's is a great dealer. I bought my 3725 from them even though it's a 3 hour drive.

How much does a super tote of feed weigh?
I have a BL25 loader (the 2200lb one) on my 3725. The BL200 was not available when I bought it. It can just lift an IBC tote cage loaded with wet split hardwood. .38 of a cord of Madrone should weigh between 2000 and 2400 lbs. I can just pick up the tote with a pair of pallet forks. (since the tote cage weighs ~100 lbs and the forks are around 200 or 250, and the weight's CG is 2' from the pins, the loader's listed capacity seems conservative). If I fail to fully seat the forks, I can't curl the tote. With loaded rears and a 500 lb box blade on the back, the rear end does not get light.

The 3725's four cylinder engine is smoother and quieter than the 3520's triple, but the 3520 sounds and feels more tractor like.

 

[camsoup02]

Dave's is a great dealer. I bought my 3725 from them even though it's a 3 hour drive.

How much does a super tote of feed weigh?
I have a BL25 loader (the 2200lb one) on my 3725. The BL200 was not available when I bought it. It can just lift an IBC tote cage loaded with wet split hardwood. .38 of a cord of Madrone should weigh between 2000 and 2400 lbs. I can just pick up the tote with a pair of pallet forks. (since the tote cage weighs ~100 lbs and the forks are around 200 or 250, and the weight's CG is 2' from the pins, the loader's listed capacity seems conservative). If I fail to fully seat the forks, I can't curl the tote. With loaded rears and a 500 lb box blade on the back, the rear end does not get light.

The 3725's four cylinder engine is smoother and quieter than the 3520's triple, but the 3520 sounds and feels more tractor like.

Ive been impressed with Dave's so far, helpful with all questions and a great selection of tractors and implements.

A super tote (or super sack) of feed weighs in right at 2000lbs. We are looking to start a chicken operation in the future, somewhere in the neighborhood of 100-200 layers and maybe 50-100 broilers at a time. It seems like the 20 series would handle moving the totes easier than the 15 series. But I do like the price of the 15 series, as well as not having a DPF.

I have to say that the Kioti 2610 and 3510 are also nice tractors. I'm leaning towards the Branson brand when comparing loader capacity, tractor weight and price.

 

[camsoup02]

I don't think you can go wrong choosing any of the subcompact tractor brands on the market today. They are just so reliable, and you probably wont see your dealer but once every 3 years, and that for service only. All parts can be ordered online.

For your work area size, i agree with you in keeping it at 35hp and less, and preferably at 25hp. Regarding tires, I went with industrial R4 tires when I got my tractor, which have worked out well, but i do regret the constant damage they do to the ground. Recommend you consider radial R3 turf tires for your tractor, which are steel belted, low pressure turf friendly tires. They will handle tilling, mowing, snow removal, and loader work very well.

Do the turf tires handle soft ground and/or mud well? I do have several very steep slopes, not sure how well the turf tires do on steep terrain?

I have a riding lawn mower for the front yard, didn't think the R4 tires would be too bad on the ditches and fields. How much "damage" do you see form the R4's?

 

[rademamj1]

Do the turf tires handle soft ground and/or mud well? I do have several very steep slopes, not sure how well the turf tires do on steep terrain?

I have a riding lawn mower for the front yard, didn't think the R4 tires would be too bad on the ditches and fields. How much "damage" do you see form the R4's?

Yes turf tires handle soft ground, grass, snow and a little mud. No tires handle a lot of mud. They also do surprisingly well on slopes and light loader work. I was just recommending you consider the R3 turf. You can read the previous threads on R3 turf vs R4 industrial.

I went with R4 industrial tires for my 1st tractor. I have spent many hours each year repairing the damage these tires do to the ground, mainly during use in the spring time.

My recommendation for R3 turf was based on your first post, which included mainly field tilling, mowing and some light loader work. Dominately heavy loader work using pallet forks to move heavy totes around for chicken farm operations. For that type of work the R4 industrial excels.

 

[ericm979]

My land is steep- avg slope is 33%. The 20/25 series come with three different sets of wheels and tires, of slightly different sizes. The 3725 normally comes with the middle set. I got mine with the smaller ones that I think come on the 3520 and 3020. The idea being to lower the CG a bit. It was Dave's suggestion. And Dave's added 2" spacers on the rear. I went with R4s as they're broad and flat, which makes them more stable on side slopes as long as the tread is not sliding sideways of course. Our soil's sandy and drains well even though we get a lot of rain, so there's rarely mud.

The larger frame 20 series will handle a 2000lb tote better than the smaller lighter 15 series. Mine handles it ok but I can feel that there's a lot of weight out there.

Branson's DPF works well for most users. A few in cold areas who run their tractor at low rpms have had problems with the DPF eventually clogging. It needs to get hot enough often enough to stay clean. For most, normal use does that. If you have to, it's easy to replace the DPF with a muffler. There's no ECU to hack.

 

[rScotty]

I recommend that you rent one of those tractors for a week. Use it for a few hours each evening and see how it works on your land. If you don't learn something important to you that you haven't even thought of yet I'd be surprised. My bet is that you will learn enough to save the rental fee. Use it normally, they aren't fragile. But do return it better than you got it.

If the dealer has one that is used, you might even get him to deduct the rent from the price if you buy it.
There is nothing at all wrong with looking at low hour used tractors.
Right now I see you spending a lot of money for something that you don't know much about. You need to fix that.
For instance, turf tires are a big dollar adder. They work well on our land. Comfortable ride and gentle on the land. But do they work that well on yours?
If they argue that you might damage their used tractor, that alone will tell you a lot about both their product and something about the dealership.

Spend a week of evenings with one. Frankly I'd start simple. Just driving it around your property & moving some rocks and picking up slash will teach you lots. No need to work it hard, just get accustomed to how it works.

Someone mentioned Dave's; IMHO that would be a good place to start.
rScotty

 

[chim]

Many of us fall into the trap of recommending what works best for us on our land. I do it a lot myself.

rScotty's advice of trying something on your land would be ideal.

 

[camsoup02]

I recommend that you rent one of those tractors for a week. Use it for a few hours each evening and see how it works on your land. If you don't learn something important to you that you haven't even thought of yet I'd be surprised. My bet is that you will learn enough to save the rental fee. Use it normally, they aren't fragile. But do return it better than you got it.

If the dealer has one that is used, you might even get him to deduct the rent from the price if you buy it.
There is nothing at all wrong with looking at low hour used tractors.
Right now I see you spending a lot of money for something that you don't know much about. You need to fix that.
For instance, turf tires are a big dollar adder. They work well on our land. Comfortable ride and gentle on the land. But do they work that well on yours?
If they argue that you might damage their used tractor, that alone will tell you a lot about both their product and something about the dealership.

Spend a week of evenings with one. Frankly I'd start simple. Just driving it around your property & moving some rocks and picking up slash will teach you lots. No need to work it hard, just get accustomed to how it works.

Someone mentioned Dave's; IMHO that would be a good place to start.
rScotty

This is great advice. I had not thought about this at all.

Kind of like a demo at my place, instead of in the dealers lot.

 

[LOWTECH]

Steve Heckeroth the inventor of the all electric drive tractor series is at Mendocino CA. Take a look at the CET model as it meets all your needs. Electric is more expensive to buy but at the end of the day pays for itself in energy savings, maintenance and repairs.. Solectrac Electric Tractors | United States

 

[Ortimber]

Steve Heckeroth the inventor of the all electric drive tractor series is at Mendocino CA. Take a look at the CET model as it meets all your needs. Electric is more expensive to buy but at the end of the day pays for itself in energy savings, maintenance and repairs.. Solectrac Electric Tractors | United States

Do you have one of these? The video makes the 3pt and loader performance seen very slow.

 

[LOWTECH]

I dont but a colleague of mine has the E-Utility. The loader on the e-Farmer is powered by electric actuators and yes - slower than hydraulics. The e-farmer and the CET have the same hydraulic pump out put as the other diesel brands in the 30 hp class.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I would lean to the heavier side of the tractor chassis you've looked at.

I have the cabbed version of the same tractor Eric has. I can tell you with anything close to 2000 pounds on the loader, you're going to want every ounce of tractor weight you can get. The rest of your requirements would be easily met by any of the models you're looking at.

But 2000 pounds on a loader?

With filled rear tires and a box blade or mower on my 3 pt, my tractor weighs 7000 pounds (7100 actually). Believe me when I tell you that you feel every pound of that kind of weight carrying around on the front end of the loader.

Also, with that much weight on the loader, R4 industrial tires are your only sane choice. Keep the fronts up to near max air pressure.

And keep the load as low to the ground as you can while moving it, and be *very* careful when traversing uneven ground.

I would lean towards the 35 hp or more. You may find like Eric has, that running a wood chipper (you guys have many more burn restrictions) will make you wish for more hp.

Don't worry about the emissions at all. IF, (and only IF) it becomes a problem for you, they come right off on the Branson:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/century-branson/409434-exhaust-mod-my-3725-a.html

 

[fried1765]

Do you have one of these? The video makes the 3pt and loader performance seen very slow.

I suspect that we are many years from electric tractors taking over the CUT market.
30 years from now..... maybe ????