AC glitches

[Popgadget]

I have not looked at the controls as my electrical knowledge is limited.
Would the actual switch be in the controls in the cab or would the button activate a switch located elsewhere on the machine?

My guess (and only a guess) is that the button is the switch.

 

[radios1]

Because the green light in the button does not come on, I would guess that it is an issue with the switch itself. Because you state that the cooling is normal when the light is on, you can rule out the compressor, condenser and evaporator. They all work fine, this is just a control issue.

the flappers in the ductwork have to change positions, and how ever they are controlled, either vacuum, or electric motors, they would operate a sensor switch, which stops the motors and lights the light to tell you that the mode has successfully changed..

 

[fruitcakesa]

Ops, I guess I didn't read far enough. That's a cab intake air restriction. But some lower "force" will be noticed if the AC has cab filters. That is normal. When Recirc is on, No/little outside or fresh air is used so there's nothing to filter. The fan is just recirculating inside air so there will be more force from the fan.

So I did an experiment today, high 80's outside, I put the AC on with recirc off, fan on low and went about my day.
I proceeded to dig a few loads of gravel and then went stone hunting for my stone step project.
All this was done at low speed with periods of idling over 45 minutes or so.
After a relatively short time, the cab was comfortably cool with just low fan speed .:thumbsup:
I did not attempt to use recirc but will next time I go out.

 

[LouNY]

Why did you use the low fan speed,
that would yield the coldest air flow,
but a higher fan speed should deliver more air.

 

[fruitcakesa]

Why did you use the low fan speed,
that would yield the coldest air flow,
but a higher fan speed should deliver more air.

Just to see how it cool it would get on low.

 

[jaxs]

Take it to a dealer and have the AC serviced. Your testament to experience will only get you in deeper and perhaps a costly mistake. Low refrigerant can cause the expansion valve to delay or not work. It can also cause the AC compressor not to run or run intermittently. Either or both of those will cause loss of cooling even though the fan still works. I would only use "Recirc" on very humid days or very-very hot days.

That is the best advice you have recieved,,,,,,,,unless you ignore most of it except what Radios said. Unless you have a fair amount of mechanical aptitude,the best tec in the world will find it difficult to walk you through it. For future questions you can help others to help you if you post a better discription of tractor in your signiture AND always say wheter that's the tractor you are talking about. Not everyone know's that a M6040 is one of the models built by Kubota. As you work through this with Mr. Radios (if you choose to) keep in mind that (A) your diesel doesn't create vacuum, (B) the motor that move's diverter door is vacuum operated and most important,a delay such as you are witnessing is very common on diesel trucks and cars because dash switch send's signal to a vacuum motor which foward's vacuum to heater-ac,4x4 and such. Best of luck to you.

 

[fruitcakesa]

That is the best advice you have recieved,,,,,,,,unless you ignore most of it except what Radios said. Unless you have a fair amount of mechanical aptitude,the best tec in the world will find it difficult to walk you through it. For future questions you can help others to help you if you post a better discription of tractor in your signiture AND always say wheter that's the tractor you are talking about. Not everyone know's that a M6040 is one of the models built by Kubota. As you work through this with Mr. Radios (if you choose to) keep in mind that (A) your diesel doesn't create vacuum, (B) the motor that move's diverter door is vacuum operated and most important,a delay such as you are witnessing is very common on diesel trucks and cars because dash switch send's signal to a vacuum motor which foward's vacuum to heater-ac,4x4 and such. Best of luck to you.

I will have to look around for a mobile service dealer as I have no transport for the tractor. Probably big $

 

[LouNY]

Any AC Tech should be able to check out the system pressures, it is not rocket science they may have to search for the component locations.
Many smaller dealers will not have a tech that can work on AC. Salem Farm supply has one that's good but it would be quite the service charge
from Salem NY to Cavendish VT.
One other option would be an automotive shop close by and just road the tractor to them.
Especially if you could get the pertinent section of the service manual for them.

 

[Tx Jim]

Any AC Tech should be able to check out the system pressures, it is not rocket science they may have to search for the component locations.
Many smaller dealers will not have a tech that can work on AC. Salem Farm supply has one that's good but it would be quite the service charge
from Salem NY to Cavendish VT.
One other option would be an automotive shop close by and just road the tractor to them.
Especially if you could get the pertinent section of the service manual for them.

Ditto I totally agree

 

[fruitcakesa]

So today I pulled the seat to look at the AC/heat gear. Man it is crowded under there but it looked pretty clean and tidy. Nothing there for me to know about.
I then did some rock picking and log moving with the AC, fan on low, no recirc. And it cooled just fine with steady cold air blowing from the vents.
At one point I pushed the recirc button and it illuminated and immediately I felt the air get even cooler.
I only left it on for minute to check then turned it off.
The AC continued to function perfectly for the hour or so I was working.
My question is this: Does the engine need to completely warm up before the AC operates efficiently? This time I let the tractor fully warm up with the temp gauge about midway and it cooled flawlessly.