Industrial Tires on YM2002d?

[wildbitshomestead]

Hi all, Trevor here, new to the forum. I have a YM002d that I purchased about a month ago. it came with ag tires on it, and now Im thinking about putting industrial or turf tires on it. I have 5 acres of sloped land, mostly wooded, and very quickly realized that I need something a bit more stable and some weight on the back (will fill rear tires with beet juice).
Have any of you put industrial tires on a YM2002d or similar yanmar? Thoughts, advice, suggestions welcome. Thanks

 

[winston1]

Welcome to the forum. :welcome: Have you got your wheels in the wide stance?

 

[CoyPatton]

Welcome to the forum.
I also have a YM2002D. When I got mine about 7 years ago, it had worn out front tires on it and 1 worn out ricer tire on the rear and one fairly new AG tire on it. The ricer was replaced after a flat soon after I acquired it when I discovered a rather large chunk of tire gone with a piece cut in to fit. The fronts were also replaced. There was a bit of confusion regarding the front tires as 6.00-14 and 5.00-14 were both listed in different places for the front. After much research I went with the 6.00-14 tires.
Winston1 has for me been a great resource for information on the 2002D as he has one or at least had one.
I have not heard of many putting industrial tires on any model of YM series Yanmars. Hoye does have a turf tire option for the YM’s, but it requires replacement of wheels, combine tire and wheel purchase is quite an investment.
As for stability, do you have your tires with the ‘dish’ facing out or in? Facing out will give you a wider stance.
Feel free to ask questions either through the forum or message board.

 

[CoyPatton]

This is one of those bits of wisdom that I have gained from Winston1

 

[careyo63]

My Org. Bridgestone started to dry and crack at the lugs. Then I was repairing the tubes. My craftsman Garden tractor would tear up the Grass when wet also. Flat wide turf tire. I just learned to let the spots were it was extremely wet dry up and then cut it. The Org. rears I finally had to do something. After studying my options, It hit me what Steve at Spalding told me when I bought it asking about them. He told me to just reline them. Which I did in 2016. Not the first complaint. Here's what I used and only took the tire shop a couple minutes to install. Gempler 9DR7 8x24, 9x24, 8.25x20, 7.50x20 Tire Reliner
I'm all for saving $ "Which was A Lot" compared to replacement. :thumbsup:

 

[CoyPatton]

My Org. Bridgestone started to dry and crack at the lugs. Then I was repairing the tubes. My craftsman Garden tractor would tear up the Grass when wet also. Flat wide turf tire. I just learned to let the spots were it was extremely wet dry up and then cut it. The Org. rears I finally had to do something. After studying my options, It hit me what Steve at Spalding told me when I bought it asking about them. He told me to just reline them. Which I did in 2016. Not the first complaint. Here's what I used and only took the tire shop a couple minutes to install. Gempler 9DR7 8x24, 9x24, 8.25x20, 7.50x20 Tire Reliner
I'm all for saving $ "Which was A Lot" compared to replacement. :thumbsup:

I would have lived to have been able to reline the rears, but there was a hole large enough for 1 fist to freely reach into the tire, fronts were just worn out, tractor was stuck in 4x4 when purchased. (That has been corrected). I looked for a photo of the rear tire, but have not located yet. My flat actually happened because the ‘patch’ moved and ripped the tube.

 

[careyo63]

They would still work is my bet !! The reline was thicker than the Org. Tire and looked to have Steel woven in it. 150.00$ total cost for both tires including the Tire shop. I'll never wear them out........... My setup!!!!

 

[careyo63]

I pulled the Packing list and seen were I noted the sale price. 9/16 2 ordered @ 127.18 and 35.00$ to install. Went and checked if they was still available which they are. The price sure went up. Imagine That. They Work!!!
9.5x24 Tire Guard for Rear Tractor Tire — Gempler's

 

[wildbitshomestead]

Thanks for the advice all. I realized that Les Schwab tire shop will fill the tires with beet juice, so I think Im going to take it over there adn have them fill them up, and while Im at it, swap out the wheels for more stability (left to right, right to left). Will try that and see how it does before spending a chunk on new tires/rims. Would love to have a bit wider/lower stance at some point for the slope of my property, but spending 2k on turf tires is a bit much at the moment. Plus, if i want to drive it in muddy conditions, I'd probably have to put chains on the turf tires also. Had my garden tractor out spreading some wood chips in a muddy area the other day and slid all over the place with it, and those are turf tires.

 

[wildbitshomestead]

Thanks Coy. I need to put the dish facing out, haven't done that yet. A wider stance is definitely needed. Think I'll have the guys at Les Schwab do that before they fill them with beet juice when I take it in.

Welcome to the forum.
I also have a YM2002D. When I got mine about 7 years ago, it had worn out front tires on it and 1 worn out ricer tire on the rear and one fairly new AG tire on it. The ricer was replaced after a flat soon after I acquired it when I discovered a rather large chunk of tire gone with a piece cut in to fit. The fronts were also replaced. There was a bit of confusion regarding the front tires as 6.00-14 and 5.00-14 were both listed in different places for the front. After much research I went with the 6.00-14 tires.
Winston1 has for me been a great resource for information on the 2002D as he has one or at least had one.
I have not heard of many putting industrial tires on any model of YM series Yanmars. Hoye does have a turf tire option for the YM’s, but it requires replacement of wheels, combine tire and wheel purchase is quite an investment.
As for stability, do you have your tires with the ‘dish’ facing out or in? Facing out will give you a wider stance.
Feel free to ask questions either through the forum or message board.

 

[CoyPatton]

Yes the tire/wheel will be considerably heavier after being filled. Have them apply anti-seize to your lug bolts.
One caution on filling tires (generally speaking one of the preferred locations for additional weight) this is weight that is always with the tractor. While the original 8.3-24 rear tires have little flotation they have none when filled. I have not filled mine, but largely decided this as a factor of I wanted ballast weight further rearward to shift by loader ballast more toward the rear.
In the years of owning mine my traction issues have only been 2x, once in snow in a ditch where I had to drop my ballast to get out and once where I screwed up and drove into a mud hole (hidden by tall grass and unknown area to me. I noticed wetness on front tires, shut down movement and sunk almost to the rear axle. I was able in both situations to go to low range and with the aid of the loader back out of both.
Again think through your filling your tires. It may well be what is right for you. There are some excellent do it yourself rear ballast builds on the General topics - build it section of this forum.

 

[rScotty]

Yes the tire/wheel will be considerably heavier after being filled. Have them apply anti-seize to your lug bolts.
One caution on filling tires (generally speaking one of the preferred locations for additional weight) this is weight that is always with the tractor. While the original 8.3-24 rear tires have little flotation they have none when filled. I have not filled mine, but largely decided this as a factor of I wanted ballast weight further rearward to shift by loader ballast more toward the rear.
In the years of owning mine my traction issues have only been 2x, once in snow in a ditch where I had to drop my ballast to get out and once where I screwed up and drove into a mud hole (hidden by tall grass and unknown area to me. I noticed wetness on front tires, shut down movement and sunk almost to the rear axle. I was able in both situations to go to low range and with the aid of the loader back out of both.
Again think through your filling your tires. It may well be what is right for you. There are some excellent do it yourself rear ballast builds on the General topics - build it section of this forum.

Good advice. Think through it. Depending on your soil, there are advantages to filled and unfilled tires & you can't unweight them easily.
For instance, our soil here is sandy. It doesn't sink, stick, or deform - so there is little advantage to tires with lugs. Industrials and even turfs have better traction most of the time...not all the time. For ice and snow we use chains anyway. But for us on our soil, filling the tires would be a detriment as often as an advantage.

Getting them as wide as possible turns out to be a huge advantage for us. Depending on the Yanmar and which wheels it came with....some Yanmars have multiple positions on the axle, plus you can reverse the dish, and also move the rim out on the dish. They get pretty wide. Do the rears only.
rScotty

 

[CoyPatton]

Good advice. Think through it. Depending on your soil, there are advantages to filled and unfilled tires & you can't unweight them easily.
For instance, our soil here is sandy. It doesn't sink, stick, or deform - so there is little advantage to tires with lugs. Industrials and even turfs have better traction most of the time...not all the time. For ice and snow we use chains anyway. But for us on our soil, filling the tires would be a detriment as often as an advantage.

Getting them as wide as possible turns out to be a huge advantage for us. Depending on the Yanmar and which wheels it came with....some Yanmars have multiple positions on the axle, plus you can reverse the dish, and also move the rim out on the dish. They get pretty wide. Do the rears only.
rScotty

The 2002D only has the dish in/out option (at least mine only has that option). My centers are welded to the rim. It has been a while since I have had the wheels off of mine, but to the best of my memory the flanges are not movable on the axle.
And yes soils make huge difference for tire selection/needs.
My area is a heavy clay and fairly closely is red clay. The local clay is affectionally call gumbo. When wet it will suck your boots clean off your feet.

 

[wildbitshomestead]

Thanks for the advice all. Well, I went ahead and rotated the dish outwards and had the tires filled. Could only get about 10 gallons in each tire, which is roughly 100 lbs extra each tire, not a significant amount, but better than before. Got it home and did some clearing of land for about 10 minutes, then noticed some steam coming from the engine. Looks like I've now got a possible hydraulic fluid leak somewhere. Now to find and fix that and figure out a ballast box situation... never a dull moment.

 

[winston1]

Hmmmm, steam coming from engine. What did that turn out to be?

 

[CoyPatton]

Thanks for the advice all. Well, I went ahead and rotated the dish outwards and had the tires filled. Could only get about 10 gallons in each tire, which is roughly 100 lbs extra each tire, not a significant amount, but better than before. Got it home and did some clearing of land for about 10 minutes, then noticed some steam coming from the engine. Looks like I've now got a possible hydraulic fluid leak somewhere. Now to find and fix that and figure out a ballast box situation... never a dull moment.

Steam can be a result of lots of things around an engine. Keep us updated on what you find as the cause.

Research what you want for rear ballast. There are some excellent examples of rear ballast shown on this forum. Just remember that weight (ballast) has a lever or fulcrum effect, if you tuck the weight between the lower arms, you need more than if it is all hanging beyond the end of those arms. With 200+ lbs in your tires, you may find that an implement provides all the additional ballast you need.

 

[wildbitshomestead]

Steam was engine was liquid leak. Im assuming it is hydraulic fluid... reddish/pink in color, sticky. Tractor is sitting where it is until I figure this out. I just got this tractor few weeks ago, so still getting to know where everything is. I also ordered a manual from Hoye, but dont have it yet. So I知 not exactly sure where the hydraulic pump is... guy I bought it from said it could be an o ring on the pump.... can anyone help with a pic of where that is/what it looks like?

 

[wildbitshomestead]

Thanks. Im looking at an auger for a rear implement. Hoping that would give the additional weight needed.

 

[winston1]

Steam was engine was liquid leak. Im assuming it is hydraulic fluid... reddish/pink in color, sticky. Tractor is sitting where it is until I figure this out. I just got this tractor few weeks ago, so still getting to know where everything is. I also ordered a manual from Hoye, but dont have it yet. So I知 not exactly sure where the hydraulic pump is... guy I bought it from said it could be an o ring on the pump.... can anyone help with a pic of where that is/what it looks like?

Reddish pink sounds like coolant.

 

[wildbitshomestead]

Last coolant I put in was green though?