Factor 3rd function switch broken

[sbeausol]

I am running an L3240 with the factory L2221 3rd function valve kit to run my grapple with. When running it the other day, somehow, a branch snagged the wire running into the switch on the lever and pulled it out completely. When I tried to put it back together the switch no longer works. From the kubota parts diagram, it looks like # 7J417-84153 is the switch/wiring assembly. I'm wondering if anyone has had to replace this switch, and if so, if it's the right part? I was hoping I could plug the wire back into the switch, but that doesn't seem to work... given the shutdown of pretty much everything, it would be nice the have the tractor to catch up on all the yard work! Attached is a pick of the parts diagram. I can get actual pics of the switch later if necessary.

Input is appreciated!

 

[SDT]

I am running an L3240 with the factory L2221 3rd function valve kit to run my grapple with. When running it the other day, somehow, a branch snagged the wire running into the switch on the lever and pulled it out completely. When I tried to put it back together the switch no longer works. From the kubota parts diagram, it looks like # 7J417-84153 is the switch/wiring assembly. I'm wondering if anyone has had to replace this switch, and if so, if it's the right part? I was hoping I could plug the wire back into the switch, but that doesn't seem to work... given the shutdown of pretty much everything, it would be nice the have the tractor to catch up on all the yard work! Attached is a pick of the parts diagram. I can get actual pics of the switch later if necessary.

Input is appreciated!

View attachment 645948

The Kubota OEM third function switch/harness assembly is flimsy, easily damaged and expensive. IIRC, it costs about $130.

The first one on my L6060 was replaced under warranty but the next one will not be.

I do not believe that you will be able to repair it.

SDT

 

[nybirdman]

Been there done that;had to purchase the whole handle with switch from Kubota.Bit of a job to replace;have to take off a side panel to get to the connector.Pricey for sure.

 

[Peter 315]

You could just get a after market one might be better quality....

 

[jmc]

Can't imagine any OEM not using a commercially standard switch for such a basic application. Any numbers on the physical switch itself? (Not Kubota's part number)

 

[sbeausol]

It's definitely pricey. Looks like the switch assembly is $130 or so... the entire handle runs something like $500. Not sure how easy the switch will come out of the handle. It looks like it will be hard to find an aftermarket solution since one end feeds into the factory harness that connects to the valve.

 

[Fallon]

Can't imagine any OEM not using a commercially standard switch for such a basic application. Any numbers on the physical switch itself? (Not Kubota's part number)

I was going to say the same thing. Look at any numbers on the switch housing & plug them into Google. There is no way Kubota is going to make switches themselves. They are going to buy them in bulk. No sense to even spec something custom, just mold the handle to fit some standard switch.

 

[jmc]

I was going to say the same thing. Look at any numbers on the switch housing & plug them into Google. There is no way Kubota is going to make switches themselves. They are going to buy them in bulk. No sense to even spec something custom, just mold the handle to fit some standard switch.

The PTO switch failed on my Toro zero turn mower and the dealer's price must have been pretty high or maybe they had to order it. Punched the switch's actual part number into google and it came up on Amazon and several other places. Cheap, fast, and easy.

 

[msb1766]

Take a look a Digikey:Internal Error

 

[msb1766]

Take a look a Digikey:

Internal Error

 

[sbeausol]

Just to follow up on this... the advice here worked out. I was able to find the switch after a bit of work. The part# isn't on the switch, but with some work, I found it on digi-key. Here is the switch I pulled. I still need to install, but this is the switch on digi-key. $20 is much better than $150... Internal Error

 

[greenrider1]

Nice work. Hopefully I'll remember this thread if mine ever goes bad.

 

[sbeausol]

That is why I posted back. Hopefully others will find this and help someone else down the line. I'll confirm if it works when I install tomorrow.

 

[SDT]

That is why I posted back. Hopefully others will find this and help someone else down the line. I'll confirm if it works when I install tomorrow.

Thanks so much for your post back.

Hopefully, I can remember this thread the next time that mine fails.

SDT

 

[rScotty]

Just to follow up on this... the advice here worked out. I was able to find the switch after a bit of work. The part# isn't on the switch, but with some work, I found it on digi-key. Here is the switch I pulled. I still need to install, but this is the switch on digi-key. $20 is much better than $150...

That's the exact same switch that I have on the M59. Thanks for the detail view. I broke mine while taking the left hand plastic cover off.....the cover that has a lot of various left hand levers sticking up through slots in it. I was hoping to get to where I could lube the loader valve bellcranks that push/pull the control cables to the loader valve....turns out that loader valve is remote and lives under a cover beneath the Rt. side floorboard. My loader control is getting sort of sticky in one direction. Some insect might have built a nest up in that valve cover. Anyway, that switch is very fragile and ridiculously expensive from Kubota. Next time I will disconnect the leads from below before doing anything else. If disconnected first, the leads can be fed up through the switch hole before pulling the plastic panel.

Long story, but I've been meaning to order a switch. Or maybe use a more rugged switch. McMaster Carr carries a lot of them. The hole for the switch is somewhere in the 15 to 16 mm diameter size.
Thanks,
rScotty

 

[sbeausol]

Ok, i was able to install the switch yesterday. The factory switch is soldered to the wires so keep that in mind. Not a big deal if you have soldered before. I removed the wires and soldered them to the new switch. The area is tight so I also installed small sections of heat shrink tubing for additional weather and shorting protection. For some reason the indicator light doesn't work on the new switch, but the third function does work again! So I'd call it a success. Upon initial install, the light flickered then went out so maybe it was a faulty led. Who knows. Anyway, I am up and running again!

 

[sbeausol]

It's also worth noting that after installing it didn't work. Turned out a fuse also blew when the switch broke. So keep in mind that you may have a fuse to address in addition to the switch replacement

 

[rScotty]

It's also worth noting that after installing it didn't work. Turned out a fuse also blew when the switch broke. So keep in mind that you may have a fuse to address in addition to the switch replacement

Good to know. I don't even know where the fuses are on my M59....

On mine I'll probably be lengthening the wires to make it easier to remove the switch. And I still have to take a look at the slip disconnect/connection that Kubota is using and see if that needs improving. Still debating on whether to change the switch itself to a more rugged illuminated type. I suppose the LED illumination could be in the switch itself, but could also be separate.

A related project is to put a red warning light on the front dash to tell me that the parking brakes are on. That little indicator light on the panel somewhere off behind my right shoulder is too easily overlooked.

There's still plenty of time. Winter is back. 16 degrees this morning and lots of snow last night.
rScotty

 

[Fallon]

Good to know. I don't even know where the fuses are on my M59....

On mine I'll probably be lengthening the wires to make it easier to remove the switch. And I still have to take a look at the slip disconnect/connection that Kubota is using and see if that needs improving. Still debating on whether to change the switch itself to a more rugged illuminated type. I suppose the LED illumination could be in the switch itself, but could also be separate.

A related project is to put a red warning light on the front dash to tell me that the parking brakes are on. That little indicator light on the panel somewhere off behind my right shoulder is too easily overlooked.

There's still plenty of time. Winter is back. 16 degrees this morning and lots of snow last night.
rScotty

My dash does that on my L4060. Then it starts buzzing or beeping at me. So nice for a memory aid. Of course I usually leave the brakes unpinned so the parking latch only engages the right side. Driving in circles is a pretty good memory aid you've left the brake on too. I do wish they had a beake lever like excavators. Blocks the door when off, out of the way for an easy exit. Forces you to engage it any time you exit & is in a super trivial place to operate it.

 

[Smokeydog]

Have two tractors with that same switch. B26 placement is such it is easily turned off/on by your right leg. M59 has better clearance. Still the switch is plastic and kind of flimsy compared to other switches like the hazards or lights.

See metal, 16mm, led indicator, waterproof similar switches on eBay that might work. Size matters so if you could give diameter that would be helpful.

Installed small led rubber grummet mounted trailer running light for the B26 brake warning light. 3/4” hole. Very bright, obvious and installation is easy.


Picking snowballs for Easter Sunday!