Factor 3rd function switch broken

[sbeausol]

Just to follow up on this... the advice here worked out. I was able to find the switch after a bit of work. The part# isn't on the switch, but with some work, I found it on digi-key. Here is the switch I pulled. I still need to install, but this is the switch on digi-key. $20 is much better than $150... Internal Error

 

[greenrider1]

Nice work. Hopefully I'll remember this thread if mine ever goes bad.

 

[sbeausol]

That is why I posted back. Hopefully others will find this and help someone else down the line. I'll confirm if it works when I install tomorrow.

 

[SDT]

That is why I posted back. Hopefully others will find this and help someone else down the line. I'll confirm if it works when I install tomorrow.

Thanks so much for your post back.

Hopefully, I can remember this thread the next time that mine fails.

SDT

 

[rScotty]

Just to follow up on this... the advice here worked out. I was able to find the switch after a bit of work. The part# isn't on the switch, but with some work, I found it on digi-key. Here is the switch I pulled. I still need to install, but this is the switch on digi-key. $20 is much better than $150...

That's the exact same switch that I have on the M59. Thanks for the detail view. I broke mine while taking the left hand plastic cover off.....the cover that has a lot of various left hand levers sticking up through slots in it. I was hoping to get to where I could lube the loader valve bellcranks that push/pull the control cables to the loader valve....turns out that loader valve is remote and lives under a cover beneath the Rt. side floorboard. My loader control is getting sort of sticky in one direction. Some insect might have built a nest up in that valve cover. Anyway, that switch is very fragile and ridiculously expensive from Kubota. Next time I will disconnect the leads from below before doing anything else. If disconnected first, the leads can be fed up through the switch hole before pulling the plastic panel.

Long story, but I've been meaning to order a switch. Or maybe use a more rugged switch. McMaster Carr carries a lot of them. The hole for the switch is somewhere in the 15 to 16 mm diameter size.
Thanks,
rScotty

 

[sbeausol]

Ok, i was able to install the switch yesterday. The factory switch is soldered to the wires so keep that in mind. Not a big deal if you have soldered before. I removed the wires and soldered them to the new switch. The area is tight so I also installed small sections of heat shrink tubing for additional weather and shorting protection. For some reason the indicator light doesn't work on the new switch, but the third function does work again! So I'd call it a success. Upon initial install, the light flickered then went out so maybe it was a faulty led. Who knows. Anyway, I am up and running again!

 

[sbeausol]

It's also worth noting that after installing it didn't work. Turned out a fuse also blew when the switch broke. So keep in mind that you may have a fuse to address in addition to the switch replacement

 

[rScotty]

It's also worth noting that after installing it didn't work. Turned out a fuse also blew when the switch broke. So keep in mind that you may have a fuse to address in addition to the switch replacement

Good to know. I don't even know where the fuses are on my M59....

On mine I'll probably be lengthening the wires to make it easier to remove the switch. And I still have to take a look at the slip disconnect/connection that Kubota is using and see if that needs improving. Still debating on whether to change the switch itself to a more rugged illuminated type. I suppose the LED illumination could be in the switch itself, but could also be separate.

A related project is to put a red warning light on the front dash to tell me that the parking brakes are on. That little indicator light on the panel somewhere off behind my right shoulder is too easily overlooked.

There's still plenty of time. Winter is back. 16 degrees this morning and lots of snow last night.
rScotty

 

[Fallon]

Good to know. I don't even know where the fuses are on my M59....

On mine I'll probably be lengthening the wires to make it easier to remove the switch. And I still have to take a look at the slip disconnect/connection that Kubota is using and see if that needs improving. Still debating on whether to change the switch itself to a more rugged illuminated type. I suppose the LED illumination could be in the switch itself, but could also be separate.

A related project is to put a red warning light on the front dash to tell me that the parking brakes are on. That little indicator light on the panel somewhere off behind my right shoulder is too easily overlooked.

There's still plenty of time. Winter is back. 16 degrees this morning and lots of snow last night.
rScotty

My dash does that on my L4060. Then it starts buzzing or beeping at me. So nice for a memory aid. Of course I usually leave the brakes unpinned so the parking latch only engages the right side. Driving in circles is a pretty good memory aid you've left the brake on too. I do wish they had a beake lever like excavators. Blocks the door when off, out of the way for an easy exit. Forces you to engage it any time you exit & is in a super trivial place to operate it.

 

[Smokeydog]

Have two tractors with that same switch. B26 placement is such it is easily turned off/on by your right leg. M59 has better clearance. Still the switch is plastic and kind of flimsy compared to other switches like the hazards or lights.

See metal, 16mm, led indicator, waterproof similar switches on eBay that might work. Size matters so if you could give diameter that would be helpful.

Installed small led rubber grummet mounted trailer running light for the B26 brake warning light. 3/4” hole. Very bright, obvious and installation is easy.


Picking snowballs for Easter Sunday!