Tractor split - the Insides

[mmranch]

OK, the tractor is split.

Here are the pictures of the insides after opening.









You can see the puddle of hydraulic oil in the bottom of the bell housing. Will tear into it later.

Thanks!

 

[radios1]

WOW! what made the tractor split?. something with using a backhoe?.

 

[countrybumpkin]

He is splitting it to replace a faulty input shaft seal in the transmission.

You really need to keep all this in one single thread so everyone can follow along from the start. If they didn’t read one of your other threads about what you were doing the split for then they are lost.

 

[Roadworthy]

I didn't read the other threads or didn't connect them to this one but I find it interesting to see an actual tractor split apart. I wouldn't look forward to doing it but I certainly wouldn't be afraid to. It's a lot cheaper than paying a dealer or shop to do the job.

 

[mrmikey]

Those splines look awfully dry..............Mike

 

[ruffdog]

Other threads by OP on tractor splitting subject:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/tym-tractors/418552-soon-split-tym-t603.html?highlight=#post5559394

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/418773-tractor-split-other-problem-considerations.html?highlight=#post5565023

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/418774-tractor-split-disconnections.html?highlight=#post5565053

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/418662-tractor-split-splitting-stands.html

 

[radios1]

Those splines look awfully dry..............Mike

yeah, I'd put some marine grease on them to prevent rust..

 

[Zebrafive]

Those splines look awfully dry..............Mike

Rusty was my thought.

 

[Shaneard]

yeah, I'd put some marine grease on them to prevent rust..

I wouldn't grease them. As soon as you crank the tractor the centrifugal force will sling the grease onto the clutch disc.

 

[ruffdog]

I wouldn't grease them. As soon as you crank the tractor the centrifugal force will sling the grease onto the clutch disc.

At least wipe all excess grease off before assy.

 

[mmranch]

Hey, thanks for all the ideas. Sorry for the confusion... I actually created different posts for the different stages of the total project and put the 'Tractor Split' on the front so people could go right to that stage if they were also doing the job.

This post is about the actual insides repair.


I'm about to start cleaning up the bell housing side and engine side and then disassembling both sides.


Those splines are dry and rusty looking. Service manual say 'use a light coat of molybedenum heat-proof grease' when reassembling so I will. But remember, the splines live inside the clutch and the dryness says the clutch is staying pretty dry even with the hydraulic leak has fluid in the bell housing. We will see what the clutch looks like when I get it off. I'm replacing the clutch and throwout bearing anyway, since I'm in there.

Thanks again!

 

[mmranch]

Now on the bell housing pictures... I wish I knew exactly where the hydraulic fluid was coming from?

I'm guessing its from the input shaft but there is also that off-center black looking plug thing. It has a dark looking drip line coming from it. I'm also guessing the dark dirt-like stuff around the inside of the housing is clutch plate dust?

We'll see!

 

[ruffdog]

mmranch...looking at the splined input shaft, how far do the splines extend into the seal? Is there enough flat area on the shaft for the lips of the seal to ride on?

 

[ptsg]

Since you have the tractor apart, I would change every single seal you can get to while you have it apart. Should be the input shaft and that plug. The plug either have an O-ring inside, or it works like a freeze plug on a engine block.

 

[ruffdog]

I'm thinking the rubber plug is used to plug a machined hole that was needed for the manufacturing process.

 

[ptsg]

I'm thinking the rubber plug is used to plug a machined hole that was needed for the manufacturing process.

Yeah, I would say it's the bearing housing for the shuttle shaft and gears.

 

[radios1]

Hey, thanks for all the ideas. Sorry for the confusion... I actually created different posts for the different stages of the total project and put the 'Tractor Split' on the front so people could go right to that stage if they were also doing the job.

This post is about the actual insides repair.


I'm about to start cleaning up the bell housing side and engine side and then disassembling both sides.


Those splines are dry and rusty looking. Service manual say 'use a light coat of molybedenum heat-proof grease' when reassembling so I will. But remember, the splines live inside the clutch and the dryness says the clutch is staying pretty dry even with the hydraulic leak has fluid in the bell housing. We will see what the clutch looks like when I get it off. I'm replacing the clutch and throwout bearing anyway, since I'm in there.

Thanks again!

as long as the Molybdenum heat proof grease never dries out like Lithium grease dries out and cracks, very good. but if Molybdenum heat proof grease was used during the original assembly, where did it go to allow rust?. I mentioned marine grease that never dries out, and is impervious to water, over 20 years on an antenna tower proved that..

 

[mmranch]

As I have been cleaning things up in the bell housing, the black seal has continued to leak hydraulic oil from the bottom of the seal.

View attachment 627675

This photo doesn't really show the leak but shows where it's leaking. Also, you can see some kind of sealant around the edges of the black seal.

 

[mmranch]

And... it also appears to be continuing to leak at the underside of the input shaft.

 

[fried1765]

WOW! what made the tractor split?. something with using a backhoe?.

Are you REALLY serious ???