Newer 3/4 ton advice?

[zing]

My dash just shows the tires with a low warning and what each tire has for air pressure. I just hit the reset button and change the screen when I get in it. There are no bells or whistles going off. I rarely ever put air in the tires. I haven't put 80 PSI in them in about 2 years since I hauled a load of 3/4 stone home in it.

Mine is the XLT model with no touch screen so what I get is the orange light flashing and the beep beep beep warning, and a line of text that says Low Tire Pressure Warning. I can hit reset but that just makes the text go away and stops any beeping. The Orange light is still flashing on the dash and later on it is going to trip again. I would like to lower the tire pressure for a better ride and better tire wear, but it isn't worth that annoyance every time I drive anywhere.

 

[zing]

The Ford dealer can do the same as can anyone with the Forscan software and a compatible OBD-II reader.

Aaron Z

Exactly, but who is going to take their truck to the dealership to get the TPMS reset every time they tow something or carry a heavy load? People aren't driving around at 80 PSI because they can't read the tire pressure on the door sticker. They are doing it because airing your tires up and down triggers the TPMS and spending 20 minutes walking around your truck with a wifi reader and re-coding the truck computer isn't exactly a user friendly configuration.

 

[zing]

Swapping from my summer to winter tires on my Tacoma & getting them re-learned is enough of a pain already. Co-worker has a cashier's check & it goes on down the road with him this afternoon.

My wife's new Ford Escape actually shows the tire pressures on the dash for all 4 rather than just an alert. In theory you should be able to easily adjust the alert threshold, but I havent looked to see if its possible. But that's still not a super/heavy duty pickup.

Yeah, I deal with the same every winter as well since my winter tires don't have the TPMS valves in them, but it is less of an issue because all that happens is a warning when you start the truck that says TPMS malfunction (or something like that) that can be cleared with the reset button, and an orange idiot light on the dash. It doesn't keep coming back at you while you drive.

Lowering the tire pressure is different because the truck actually (properly) detects it as low tire pressure while you are driving and warns you about it. Repeatedly. Even after you clear it. For multiple tires. I tow my horse trailer about twice a month on the weekends, so I could run with lower pressure most of the time. The boat trailer and utility trailer and not heavy enough to need 80 PSI. The hose from my compressor is long enough to air up in the driveway quite easily, whenever I want. I don't do it though, because the TPMS is too annoying if I do it.

 

[aczlan]

Exactly, but who is going to take their truck to the dealership to get the TPMS reset every time they tow something or carry a heavy load? People aren't driving around at 80 PSI because they can't read the tire pressure on the door sticker. They are doing it because airing your tires up and down triggers the TPMS and spending 20 minutes walking around your truck with a wifi reader and re-coding the truck computer isn't exactly a user friendly configuration.

Most people have a hard time noticing that they have a flat tire adjusting their tire pressure to match what their load is. That is why we have TPMS.
I don't think my Ford (2008 Taurus X) complains about too much pressure in the tires, just when the tires are low, so you could set the alarm pressure to 50PSI and then air them up to 80PSI when needed.
Setting the pressure with the (free) software takes a whole minute-and-a-half, probably less time than it takes to air up the tires.

Aaron Z

 

[AllByteNoBark]

Swapping from my summer to winter tires on my Tacoma & getting them re-learned is enough of a pain already. Co-worker has a cashier's check & it goes on down the road with him this afternoon.

My wife's new Ford Escape actually shows the tire pressures on the dash for all 4 rather than just an alert. In theory you should be able to easily adjust the alert threshold, but I havent looked to see if its possible. But that's still not a super/heavy duty pickup.

So the Tacoma is sold? Have you decided what you are replacing it with or did I just miss that?

 

[zing]

Most people have a hard time noticing that they have a flat tire adjusting their tire pressure to match what their load is. That is why we have TPMS.
I don't think my Ford (2008 Taurus X) complains about too much pressure in the tires, just when the tires are low, so you could set the alarm pressure to 50PSI and then air them up to 80PSI when needed.
Setting the pressure with the (free) software takes a whole minute-and-a-half, probably less time than it takes to air up the tires.

Aaron Z

Do you have a link that describes how to do that?

 

[two_bit_score]

The Ford dealer can do the same as can anyone with the Forscan software and a compatible OBD-II reader.

Aaron Z

Doesn't TPMS mostly work off the difference in tire pressure? If you have one tire that is 34 and the other three are at 36 it will alert you to the low tire. If they are all at 34 you aren't going to get a warning.

 

[Reb954]

That's how my 2017 F250 works, only throws a warning if there is a differential in air pressure from side to side on the same axle.

 

[zing]

That's how my 2017 F250 works, only throws a warning if there is a differential in air pressure from side to side on the same axle.

I wish I could say that was the case with mine. Mine is supposed to be 75 front and 80 rear, so I dropped it to 60 all around and it gave me repeated warnings. Aired up to 65 all around, still warnings. Went back up to 75/80 and everything was happy again.

 

[Code54]

Doesn't TPMS mostly work off the difference in tire pressure? If you have one tire that is 34 and the other three are at 36 it will alert you to the low tire. If they are all at 34 you aren't going to get a warning.

Sounds like it depends on the vehicle. On my 18 Ram 2500 it has a set threshold that when you go below it, it triggers the TPMS. Some of the slight older RAMs (I had a 2012) it had a low pressure button on the dash so if you wanted to drop it down when running empty it would not trigger the system. On my 18 RAM they removed that button for some reason (I thought it as a great idea but I guess others didn't agree). There was also a way to have the dealer drop the pressure setting but on the current RAMs I am told the dealer no longer has access to change the setting.
On my Wrangler I have an aftermarket "box" that I can go in and reset the pressure to trip the light at pretty much any pressure I want. Makes it nice when you have larger aftermarket tires that wear better at slightly lower pressures

 

[deserteagle71]

Doesn't TPMS mostly work off the difference in tire pressure? If you have one tire that is 34 and the other three are at 36 it will alert you to the low tire. If they are all at 34 you aren't going to get a warning.

Not on my F150. Display shows each individual tire's pressure; the alarm goes off if a tire goes below a set limit. My understanding is that limit can be changed with software.

 

[JimR]

Not on my F150. Display shows each individual tire's pressure; the alarm goes off if a tire goes below a set limit. My understanding is that limit can be changed with software.

My 2016 Ram 2500 has a solid yellow light that comes on. The four tire pressures show up in the center of the dash. My low rating can be lowered by the dealer. It will stay at that setting forever until changed by the dealer. The next time I have to go there for anything I will have them drop it to 50 PSI. I should have done that two weeks ago when I was there for a recall.

 

[aczlan]

Do you have a link that describes how to do that?

Look on What's new, I use that with a OBDLINK Bluetooth adapter and my laptop.

Not on my F150. Display shows each individual tire's pressure; the alarm goes off if a tire goes below a set limit. My understanding is that limit can be changed with software.

That is how it works for me.

Aaron Z

 

[Fallon]

So the Tacoma is sold? Have you decided what you are replacing it with or did I just miss that?

Yup, it's gone as of yesterday. For now its replaced with the wifes old Ford Escape. Retail was going to be will under $4k & probably under $1k on a trade in, so it's going to be the spare vehicle long term & mine in the short term.

The old beater F250 that's probably sketchy capacity wise is gonna be replaced with a 1 ton with a GVWR under 12k (found the trailer actually listed at 14k on the registration).

Test drove a 2018 F350 & a 2016 Chevy 3500 diesels that met my specs, at least GVWR wise. Rode fine great power, but price & features weren't what I was looking for. F350 rose really nice & the Chevy was a bit rough, but not really any worse than the TRD Sport suspension on the Tacoma or the beater F250.

Been doing a ton of research online & on YouTube (POWERSTROKEHELP.COM – The Information Source for Ford Power Stroke Diesel Owners – – The Information Source for Ford Power Stroke Diesel Owners is a great source of PowerStroke info, looking for similar Duramax & Cummins resources). My hatered for rolling coal bros & their lifted trucks has only grown, as has my concern for emissions stuff. Yet I still cant shake my not necessarily rational desire for a diesel. I'm likely to just give in & live with the self-loathing from moving a step closer to the rolling coal bros.

As near as I can tell all the diesel emissions gear (EGR, DPF & DEF) is the weak spot on all of them & all in the same league for issues. I'm likely to call that a 3 way draw & a crap shoot for reliability based more on the previous owner than any given design supperiority.

Probably going to grab something & replace the F250 before the end of the year. But not in as a huge of a rush as I thought I was with how the shuffle of the rest of the fleet has gone already.

 

[deserteagle71]

Test drove a 2018 F350 & a 2016 Chevy 3500 diesels that met my specs, at least GVWR wise. Rode fine great power, but price & features weren't what I was looking for. F350 rose really nice & the Chevy was a bit rough, but not really any worse than the TRD Sport suspension on the Tacoma or the beater F250.

Been doing a ton of research online & on YouTube (POWERSTROKEHELP.COM – The Information Source for Ford Power Stroke Diesel Owners – – The Information Source for Ford Power Stroke Diesel Owners is a great source of PowerStroke info, looking for similar Duramax & Cummins resources). My hatered for rolling coal bros & their lifted trucks has only grown, as has my concern for emissions stuff. Yet I still cant shake my not necessarily rational desire for a diesel. I'm likely to just give in & live with the self-loathing from moving a step closer to the rolling coal bros.

As near as I can tell all the diesel emissions gear (EGR, DPF & DEF) is the weak spot on all of them & all in the same league for issues. I'm likely to call that a 3 way draw & a crap shoot for reliability based more on the previous owner than any given design supperiority.

Probably going to grab something & replace the F250 before the end of the year. But not in as a huge of a rush as I thought I was with how the shuffle of the rest of the fleet has gone already.

Got a friend and neighbor with an F350 dually with the 6.7 diesel he got about a year and a half ago. He tows a monster 5th wheel toy hauler so he needed the capacity of the dually. But in talking to him recently he tells me he is very happy with the truck so far - absolutely no problems and that diesel hauls that big 34' toy hauler up and down the mountains "like it wasn't even there".

 

[AllByteNoBark]

Thanks for the update. I don't think you can really go to wrong with any of them. I have driven Dodge/Ram trucks for years with no issues. Only issue I have with my 2019 is I had nothing heavy to worry about pulling, so bought a 1500. It does have the 4x4 off road suspension and heavy tow package. Handles the tractor and trailer with no problems, but had I known I was buying a heavier tractor would have bumped up to the 3/4 ton. Have the Hemi in this one as well as the last 3, no issues with any of them. But usually get rid of them before 200,000 miles. My son has a 2018 or 19 1 ton Chevy with the Duramax, which he really likes. My nephew swears by his 3/4 ton Ford diesel which is a few years older, has over 300,000 miles on it.

Good luck in your search!

 

[JimR]

Yup, it's gone as of yesterday. For now its replaced with the wifes old Ford Escape. Retail was going to be will under $4k & probably under $1k on a trade in, so it's going to be the spare vehicle long term & mine in the short term.

The old beater F250 that's probably sketchy capacity wise is gonna be replaced with a 1 ton with a GVWR under 12k (found the trailer actually listed at 14k on the registration).

Test drove a 2018 F350 & a 2016 Chevy 3500 diesels that met my specs, at least GVWR wise. Rode fine great power, but price & features weren't what I was looking for. F350 rose really nice & the Chevy was a bit rough, but not really any worse than the TRD Sport suspension on the Tacoma or the beater F250.

Been doing a ton of research online & on YouTube (POWERSTROKEHELP.COM The Information Source for Ford Power Stroke Diesel Owners The Information Source for Ford Power Stroke Diesel Owners is a great source of PowerStroke info, looking for similar Duramax & Cummins resources). My hatered for rolling coal bros & their lifted trucks has only grown, as has my concern for emissions stuff. Yet I still cant shake my not necessarily rational desire for a diesel. I'm likely to just give in & live with the self-loathing from moving a step closer to the rolling coal bros.

As near as I can tell all the diesel emissions gear (EGR, DPF & DEF) is the weak spot on all of them & all in the same league for issues. I'm likely to call that a 3 way draw & a crap shoot for reliability based more on the previous owner than any given design supperiority.

Probably going to grab something & replace the F250 before the end of the year. But not in as a huge of a rush as I thought I was with how the shuffle of the rest of the fleet has gone already.

My neighbor traded in his F350 Diesel for a gas job this year. It was out of warranty and he was having some motor issues with it. They wanted over $5K to fix it with no guaranty that it would be fine. He ordered a brand new Ford F350 gas job. He is a Ford truck person and said enough was enough with the diesels. I can ask him what was the deal with it if you want me to. He's retired and does haul a fifth wheel around on a few vacations a year.

 

[nikerret]

The old beater F250 that's probably sketchy capacity wise is gonna be replaced with a 1 ton with a GVWR under 12k (found the trailer actually listed at 14k on the registration).

If you’re trying to stay legal, that will still need a CDL. It doesn’t matter that it’s registered at 14k, if the GVWR is 14,900 and the truck is 12k. Some trailer manufacturers will derate a trailer, but usually not after it’s sold, must be ordered that way. To stay under CDL, with that Diamond C trailer, the truck will have to have a GVWR of 11,100 lbs, or less.

 

[Copperhead]

Exactly, but who is going to take their truck to the dealership to get the TPMS reset every time they tow something or carry a heavy load? People aren't driving around at 80 PSI because they can't read the tire pressure on the door sticker. They are doing it because airing your tires up and down triggers the TPMS and spending 20 minutes walking around your truck with a wifi reader and re-coding the truck computer isn't exactly a user friendly configuration.

I have become pretty adept at ignoring the TPMS light on the dash and warning in the DIC. It comes up when I start, but I just dismiss it. And I just mentally block the light on the dash. Just like I am gifted in being able to ignore the seat belt light when I don't hook up while driving around the property on nearby areas on our gravel roads. The TPMS is set for 60 PSI front and 70 PSI rear on my 2015 Chevy 2500. I typically run about 50 PSI all the way around when not hauling. I prefer to follow the tire maker recommendations from their load pressure chart. They put in the R&D into the tire and know what it should be inflated to at a particular weight to maximize performance, handling, braking, and tire life. I am not motivated to get the dealer or anyone else to reprogram the TPMS to keep the light and warnings off.

 

[zing]

I have become pretty adept at ignoring the TPMS light on the dash and warning in the DIC. It comes up when I start, but I just dismiss it. And I just mentally block the light on the dash. Just like I am gifted in being able to ignore the seat belt light when I don't hook up while driving around the property on nearby areas on our gravel roads. The TPMS is set for 60 PSI front and 70 PSI rear on my 2015 Chevy 2500. I typically run about 50 PSI all the way around when not hauling. I prefer to follow the tire maker recommendations from their load pressure chart. They put in the R&D into the tire and know what it should be inflated to at a particular weight to maximize performance, handling, braking, and tire life. I am not motivated to get the dealer or anyone else to reprogram the TPMS to keep the light and warnings off.

I hear what you are saying. I ignore it all winter when I have the winter tires on, but I would prefer to not have to do that all summer too. So far I am seeing nothing that convinces me there is a user-friendly way to configure this though, which is bringing me back to the whole run-at-80-PSI or deal-with-the-lights-and-dinging options.