Newer 3/4 ton advice?

[Code54]

Just came back from a 700 mile trip with a friend, he just bought a new F350 diesel. OMG, that thing rides so hard I can't believe it, he actually said he made a mistake, I feel bad for him really, you really need to drive one on no so nice payment before you buy one.. The roads are perfect around the dealership he bought it from.. IFS would be what I would be looking for..

Funny you mention that. I drove a 1 ton at the dealer when I was looking for a ｾ ton. Offered me a very good price but passed on it due to the ride. Went and bought a 2500 Dodge and the ride was WAY better. Didn't really need the extra capacity so I didn't feel the poor ride was a not good trade off for the unneeded capacity.

 

[Fallon]

nikerret & Rancher Ed especially, thanks for the advice. Not really what I was asking, but as is often the case the questions you are asking & what you are wanting to isn't actually what need to know. Feel free to let me know if any of my understanding is

DOT regulations (marked DOT numbers, safety gear & a few other things) kick in at 10k (GVWR?), but no CDL. Not really going to avoid this on in the slightest.
CDL is required at 26k GVWR or GCWR with a trailer over 10k (most relevant to me with a 14k trailer, but not relevant as long as I stick with GCWR under 26k).

Trailer GVWR: 14,900
Expected tongue weight: 1,500-2,300
Towing cargo: 1,300 (250 (driver),*300 (tools), 320 (fuel), 350 (30 gal bed tank & tractor fuel))
Total minimum required payload: 3,600 (4.5k would be better for a possible future gooseneck)
Max GVWR of truck to avoid CDL: 11,100
Max curb weight of truck: 7,500

While the GVWR is easy to find published everywhere, the payload & curb weight stuff isn't. Mostly generic numbers (presumably for the lowest trim 2wd single cab & not otherwise clarified). https://www.ford.com/services/assets/Brochure?make=Ford&model=SuperDuty&year=2017&postalCode=80138 for instance has a nice chart on page 28 with a pile of GVWRs on it for model & cab, but doesn't really indicate what they would match to for engine or other stuff. There is always looking at the door tags, but that's harder to research.

The F250 double cab misses the payload mark by 100-200lbs or so. Depending on weather or not that includes the mythical 150lbs driver & passenger in the for docs much less the extra weight of a diesel or not is probably academic as it's to close to the limit for comfort if you are looking to do things right. I'm not clear if those extra weights are just for the TVTW specs or curb weights either.

https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/towing_guide/pdf/2017_ram_3500_towing_charts.pdf are a bit nicer matching all the options up. The crew cab 4x4 hemi's look to meet the GVWR & payload constraints, but probably not the Cummins.

Gonna go look at some door labels this weekend to see what numbers show up compared to what looks good.

 

[nikerret]

nikerret & Rancher Ed especially, thanks for the advice. Not really what I was asking, but as is often the case the questions you are asking & what you are wanting to isn't actually what need to know. Feel free to let me know if any of my understanding is

DOT regulations (marked DOT numbers, safety gear & a few other things) kick in at 10k (GVWR?), but no CDL. Not really going to avoid this on in the slightest.
CDL is required at 26k GVWR or GCWR with a trailer over 10k (most relevant to me with a 14k trailer, but not relevant as long as I stick with GCWR under 26k).

Trailer GVWR: 14,900
Expected tongue weight: 1,500-2,300
Towing cargo: 1,300 (250 (driver),*300 (tools), 320 (fuel), 350 (30 gal bed tank & tractor fuel))
Total minimum required payload: 3,600 (4.5k would be better for a possible future gooseneck)
Max GVWR of truck to avoid CDL: 11,100
Max curb weight of truck: 7,500

While the GVWR is easy to find published everywhere, the payload & curb weight stuff isn't. Mostly generic numbers (presumably for the lowest trim 2wd single cab & not otherwise clarified). https://www.ford.com/services/assets/Brochure?make=Ford&model=SuperDuty&year=2017&postalCode=80138 for instance has a nice chart on page 28 with a pile of GVWRs on it for model & cab, but doesn't really indicate what they would match to for engine or other stuff. There is always looking at the door tags, but that's harder to research.

The F250 double cab misses the payload mark by 100-200lbs or so. Depending on weather or not that includes the mythical 150lbs driver & passenger in the for docs much less the extra weight of a diesel or not is probably academic as it's to close to the limit for comfort if you are looking to do things right. I'm not clear if those extra weights are just for the TVTW specs or curb weights either.

https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/towing_guide/pdf/2017_ram_3500_towing_charts.pdf are a bit nicer matching all the options up. The crew cab 4x4 hemi's look to meet the GVWR & payload constraints, but probably not the Cummins.

Gonna go look at some door labels this weekend to see what numbers show up compared to what looks good.

With what I can read while my six year old bounces off the walls, it looks good, to me.

Yes, finding actual payload sucks as each truck is different. Every combination of options weighs differently. If you’re looking fir used, there’s even more variables-no way of knowing what may have been changed.

If you can, run any truck across som scales and see what it really weighs. This will not be perfect, but it’ll get you as close as you’re going to get.

Not a lot of 3/4 ton trucks will have the payload you need, if you run your trailer at near maximum capacity.

Your math looks good and fir reference, when my 16’ Diamond C dump trailer was even,y loaded with dirt, I had around 1,500 lbs tongue weight out of a total trailer weight if around 12,500. This came to 12% tongue weight.

On another load, I had just under 14% tongue weight. This load was a small bit over the trailers total rated capacity.

 

[dodge man]

Newer 1/2 ton trucks have the payload listed on the door jamb sticker. That’s for that actual truck the way it’s optioned. Includes full fuel tank but no driver or passengers.

 

[Copperhead]

^One big truck basic feature that would be really useful on small stuff..... another one I'd like to see is front hood and fenders, hinged at the bumper. Since most people don't always haul the same payload all the time, I've seen Firestone or equivalent air-bags make a huge difference on light trucks.... best of both worlds. I think Ram has/had a factory airbag option (?).

Rgds, D.

YES! I have longed for clamshell front end on pickups for a quite a while. It would make working on them so much easier. They keep making pickup truck front ends larger and larger with each model change, but no clamshell front end.

But I have to give GM credit in this regard. Unlike their previous medium duty trucks, their latest 4500, 5500, etc offerings DO have clamshell front end! About time! Wish the OEM's would do that to their Class 1, 2, and 3 pickup trucks.

 

[4570Man]

YES! I have longed for clamshell front end on pickups for a quite a while. It would make working on them so much easier. They keep making pickup truck front ends larger and larger with each model change, but no clamshell front end.

But I have to give GM credit in this regard. Unlike their previous medium duty trucks, their latest 4500, 5500, etc offerings DO have clamshell front end! About time! Wish the OEM's would do that to their Class 1, 2, and 3 pickup trucks.

The previous GM medium duty trucks did have a clamshell front end if you’re referring to the Topkick/Kodiak series. The older C series trucks didn’t. As long as they feel the need to mount the motor under the firewall in light duty trucks a clamshell front end wouldn’t help you much. I hate the tall front end GM trucks. I pondered the idea of buying a 2016 truck but I hate the visibility off the front end. And it would have to have a dump bed. No soup can beds with even worse tailgates for me.

 

[Tractorable]

OP, a good option for you might be a new Ford Super Duty with the 7.3L big block push rod motor with 10 speed transmission, over 400ft/lb of torque at 1500rpm. Might be able to get an XL or XLT in your price range.

 

[JimR]

Yep, that's exactly my point. Blame the poor tire life on the tires, and blame the rough ride on the truck. Owner is to blame for both issues but you can't tell them that... "says right here on the tire 80 psi".

The day I bought my 2016 Ram 2500 with a 6.4 Hemi I lowered the front tire pressure to 60 and the rears to 50. I get a superb ride for a 3/4 ton and decent tire wear. I jack the pressure up to 80 only if I am going to pick up anything that weighs over 1000 pounds. As far as trailer weights and DOT. In Mass any trailer over 10K is DOT classified. As far as pickup truck ride. I drove a new Ford, Chevy and Ram back to back from the same dealership. They own all 3 dealerships next door to each other. I drove all 3 vehicles over the same roads and above the speed limits. All had big block gas engines with automatics in them. All had roughly the same power and speed. I bought the Ram for having a quieter cab, a much better ride and absolutely better handling due to rear coil springs. I have pulled 7K behind it on many occasions and it is not very noticeable except on the steepest of hills. I have never regretted buying it.

 

[JimR]

Funny you mention that. I drove a 1 ton at the dealer when I was looking for a ｾ ton. Offered me a very good price but passed on it due to the ride. Went and bought a 2500 Dodge and the ride was WAY better. Didn't really need the extra capacity so I didn't feel the poor ride was a not good trade off for the unneeded capacity.

Ram has coil springs and that is what makes them ride so much beter than the Chevy and Ford. That is why I drive a Ram 2500.

 

[downslope]

Correct.



Any time your commercial rig (truck and empty trailer would qualify or bed loaded on truck, for examples) weighs more than 10k, DOT applies.

DOT number has to be on the truck. Trailers aren’t labeled, just tow vehicles. Magnets are popular for removal when not working. Mine are bolted on steel signs with wingnuts, for quick, easy removal, but better durability than magnets.

As long as you’re not leaving the State, for work, no worries. Take your DOT placard off and drive wherever, when you do leave.

You don’t need Federal Authority (MC number), if you’re intrastate. Kansas requires intrastate authority, but I don’t know about Colorado.

I can help walk you through what is required Federally and help you look up the Colorado specific requirements, if you want my help. I’d even give you my number to chat, if you’re interested.

Colorado requires DOT number on truck even if only being used in-state (intrastate).

Do I Need a USDOT Number? | Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration

 

[coobie]

The day I bought my 2016 Ram 2500 with a 6.4 Hemi I lowered the front tire pressure to 60 and the rears to 50. I get a superb ride for a 3/4 ton and decent tire wear. I jack the pressure up to 80 only if I am going to pick up anything that weighs over 1000 pounds. As far as trailer weights and DOT. In Mass any trailer over 10K is DOT classified. As far as pickup truck ride. I drove a new Ford, Chevy and Ram back to back from the same dealership. They own all 3 dealerships next door to each other. I drove all 3 vehicles over the same roads and above the speed limits. All had big block gas engines with automatics in them. All had roughly the same power and speed. I bought the Ram for having a quieter cab, a much better ride and absolutely better handling due to rear coil springs. I have pulled 7K behind it on many occasions and it is not very noticeable except on the steepest of hills. I have never regretted buying it.

Have the same 2016 Ram 2500 with the 6.4 hemi.No issues with 43,000 mile.2 FCA recalls done while I waited.

 

[JimR]

Have the same 2016 Ram 2500 with the 6.4 hemi.No issues with 43,000 mile.2 FCA recalls done while I waited.

I think that there were 4 on mine. One was the Park lever issue which didn't need to be done. There was a transmission valve body or solenoid replacement which was nice as they replaced the oil and filter for free. There was a steering issue where they welded some nuts on the steering link. Supposedly these were coming loose. I just had the tailgate issue done. I also had to have them do an alignment when the truck was only a few months old. The tires were wearing on the outside edge. I've driven it 600 miles in one day and got out of it not being sore.

 

[Code54]

I think that there were 4 on mine. One was the Park lever issue which didn't need to be done. There was a transmission valve body or solenoid replacement which was nice as they replaced the oil and filter for free. There was a steering issue where they welded some nuts on the steering link. Supposedly these were coming loose. I just had the tailgate issue done. I also had to have them do an alignment when the truck was only a few months old. The tires were wearing on the outside edge. I've driven it 600 miles in one day and got out of it not being sore.

Bought a 2018 RAM 2500 with the 6.4 and love the truck. Really glad I got it. I had a CTD (2012) and while it was a nice truck it got terrible mileage for a diesel, my new 6.4 gets about 3mph better around town and on the highway. Rides great and for my limited towing is perfect for what I needed.

 

[jwstewar]

I bought a 2017 Silverado 2500HD w/ the Duramax last year. It was off a 1 year lease and had 13k miles. I've had a couple minor issues with the truck - a leaky OnStar antenna and there was a light burned out on the power window switch lockout. Had a check engine light come on right after I bought it. Turns out it was my fault. It came with the standard mirrors. I changed them out to the tow mirrors. There is actually and ambient air temp sensor in the mirror. That caused all kinds of codes. The dealership didn't know it. I researched and swapped back to standard mirrors and they went away - ordered a new temp sensor for the new mirrors and plugged them in it has been fine since. Then I took it in for a free oil change. They checked the air cleaner. Turns out, they knocked a leaf off the air cleaner and it got into the air intake. It got stuck on the MAF sensor and threw another light. Fortunately it got stuck there instead of on into the system. I pulled the MAF to look at it and that is when I found the leaf. No issues after that and that was in May.

Truck runs great, pulls our stock trailer and our camper without issue. Running empty on the highway, it'll do anywhere between 20&27 MPGs depending on the speed and the terrain.

 

[NPurdy1112]

I have around 88k on my 2014 Ram 6.4 hemi. No major problems so far. Had an oil pressure sensor, transmission fill dipstick tube just snapped in half one day, and a thermostat/housing. Most difficult items so far was finding the thermostat in stock. I have towed the max trailer rating, just under 13k a few times (I was probably over with weight of myself and other junk in the truck). I felt find besides the hills and stopping. New and upgraded brakes could fix that.

Hard to know exactly what to get now days with so many options of each model out there. As someone mentioned recently, I am interested in the pricing and real world specs on the new Ford 7.3 gas truck.

 

[zing]

The day I bought my 2016 Ram 2500 with a 6.4 Hemi I lowered the front tire pressure to 60 and the rears to 50. I get a superb ride for a 3/4 ton and decent tire wear. I jack the pressure up to 80 only if I am going to pick up anything that weighs over 1000 pounds. As far as trailer weights and DOT. In Mass any trailer over 10K is DOT classified. As far as pickup truck ride. I drove a new Ford, Chevy and Ram back to back from the same dealership. They own all 3 dealerships next door to each other. I drove all 3 vehicles over the same roads and above the speed limits. All had big block gas engines with automatics in them. All had roughly the same power and speed. I bought the Ram for having a quieter cab, a much better ride and absolutely better handling due to rear coil springs. I have pulled 7K behind it on many occasions and it is not very noticeable except on the steepest of hills. I have never regretted buying it.

Can you control the TMPS settings from the console on that truck? My 2011 F-250 would be barking at me non-stop if I dropped the pressure below 65 PSI or so. As I understand it from a bit of reading online, to reset it requires buying a wifi reader and downloading an app for the IPAD, and then going from tire to tire to reset the pressure settings, etc etc. Who has time for that every time you want to drop the pressure for ride comfort and tire wear, then again when you have to pressure up before you tow? Maybe if you work your truck once or twice a year, but even doing that every couple weeks or monthly would get obnoxious pretty quick.

Maybe it is more configurable on newer trucks, but for my truck the TPMS system basically locks you into keeping the pressure consistent or living with chimes and bells all day long.

 

[Fallon]

Can you control the TMPS settings from the console on that truck? My 2011 F-250 would be barking at me non-stop if I dropped the pressure below 65 PSI or so. As I understand it from a bit of reading online, to reset it requires buying a wifi reader and downloading an app for the IPAD, and then going from tire to tire to reset the pressure settings, etc etc. Who has time for that every time you want to drop the pressure for ride comfort and tire wear, then again when you have to pressure up before you tow? Maybe if you work your truck once or twice a year, but even doing that every couple weeks or monthly would get obnoxious pretty quick.

Maybe it is more configurable on newer trucks, but for my truck the TPMS system basically locks you into keeping the pressure consistent or living with chimes and bells all day long.

Swapping from my summer to winter tires on my Tacoma & getting them re-learned is enough of a pain already. Co-worker has a cashier's check & it goes on down the road with him this afternoon.

My wife's new Ford Escape actually shows the tire pressures on the dash for all 4 rather than just an alert. In theory you should be able to easily adjust the alert threshold, but I havent looked to see if its possible. But that's still not a super/heavy duty pickup.

 

[JimR]

Can you control the TMPS settings from the console on that truck? My 2011 F-250 would be barking at me non-stop if I dropped the pressure below 65 PSI or so. As I understand it from a bit of reading online, to reset it requires buying a wifi reader and downloading an app for the IPAD, and then going from tire to tire to reset the pressure settings, etc etc. Who has time for that every time you want to drop the pressure for ride comfort and tire wear, then again when you have to pressure up before you tow? Maybe if you work your truck once or twice a year, but even doing that every couple weeks or monthly would get obnoxious pretty quick.

Maybe it is more configurable on newer trucks, but for my truck the TPMS system basically locks you into keeping the pressure consistent or living with chimes and bells all day long.

My dash just shows the tires with a low warning and what each tire has for air pressure. I just hit the reset button and change the screen when I get in it. There are no bells or whistles going off. I rarely ever put air in the tires. I haven't put 80 PSI in them in about 2 years since I hauled a load of 3/4 stone home in it.

 

[JimR]

Swapping from my summer to winter tires on my Tacoma & getting them re-learned is enough of a pain already. Co-worker has a cashier's check & it goes on down the road with him this afternoon.

My wife's new Ford Escape actually shows the tire pressures on the dash for all 4 rather than just an alert. In theory you should be able to easily adjust the alert threshold, but I havent looked to see if its possible. But that's still not a super/heavy duty pickup.

The Ram dealer can change the low warning setting on the computer for the tires.

 

[aczlan]

The Ram dealer can change the low warning setting on the computer for the tires.

The Ford dealer can do the same as can anyone with the Forscan software and a compatible OBD-II reader.

Aaron Z