Welding cast aluminum....
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AllByteNoBark
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Can't tell exactly where it is. Maybe JBWeld might be easier. I've had good luck with it on a similar situation.
RNeumann
Elite Member
It can be TIG welded. Maybe brazed. But if it’s mine I’d try epoxy (like the JB Weld mentioned above) first. Get it clean, dry and the surface roughed up. Make a cone or point that will push through the hole to help anchor the epoxy.
ruffdog
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TIG weld? With the size of the casting and if it was still bolted together, you would really have to turn up the heat to battle heat loss. It works best to use a torch to preheat the area but that works best disassembled. Any oil seeping through the hole also contaminates the weld and the hole may become worse. I would try JB weld first...clean it good (brake cleaner and air compressor)...force some JBW into hole by smearing with finger, then make cap.
Motorboatin
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welding cast aluminum isnt any different than extruded. It just depends on the casting. Some are dirtier than others and its easier to clean the crap out of the weld with tig. We weld extrusions to castings all the time with mig or tig depending on the part
3Ts
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Do NOT use brake cleaner when welding!
Arc Welding 1 1: Cleaning material with brake cleaner before welding
the old grind
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Use denatured alky or lacquer thinner for final de-grease before applying epoxy as suggested.
NO WELD if it can be avoided. UV can generate phosgene gas from mystery components in brake or carb cleaners.
I worked 'air leak test' & 'dunk repair' in the transmission plant at GM. Non-pressurized porosity areas in cases were epoxied and painted silver, retested, and then sent to shipping dock.
I'd use a 'slow set' vs J-B Quick. There'll be do overs if prep didn't provide a good 'tooth' for the patch & it falls off, and I concur that welding isn't the only way or necessarily the best.
NO WELD if it can be avoided. UV can generate phosgene gas from mystery components in brake or carb cleaners.
I worked 'air leak test' & 'dunk repair' in the transmission plant at GM. Non-pressurized porosity areas in cases were epoxied and painted silver, retested, and then sent to shipping dock.
I'd use a 'slow set' vs J-B Quick. There'll be do overs if prep didn't provide a good 'tooth' for the patch & it falls off, and I concur that welding isn't the only way or necessarily the best.
ruffdog
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Good catch. I would use lacquer thinner to degrease but typed in the BC just as an bad example. The point was...it has to be oil free.
mrmikey
Elite Member
Clean to shiny metal, rough it up slightly with a chisel or a sharp centerpunch, wipe off with brake cleaner and epoxy. You put heat to that without taking it completely apart all you're going to do is draw the oil to the hot area and make a mess........Mike
dragoneggs
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Good luck! Structural Adhesives can be amazing. As mentioned, 'clean' surfaces are paramount. What I mean by 'clean' is you need to apply the adhesive to a high energy surface. All oxidation, mold release, oils, etc. must be removed and then the adhesive applied soon after... before oxidation lowers the ability of the metal to react to the adhesive.
WranglerX
Super Member
Basically a hot rub on solder (read instructions for use) .... Don't see it as a repair....
Dale
WranglerX
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The dangerous solvent in brake cleaner is " tetrachloroethylene"... IF brake cleaner does not contain " tetrachloroethylene" its pretty safe... Tetrachloroethylene when exposed to heat (MIG/TIG) it converts top phosgen (nerve) gas... Most brake/carb cleaners no longer user tetrachloroethylene, but read contents label on can to be sure...
Dale
Dale
ruffdog
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My red can CRC Brakleen has the tetrachloroethylene but the green can CRC Brakleen does not. My LPS and CRC contact cleaners and the gumout carb cleaner does not list tetrachloroethylene either. Good info to know Dale.
TMGT
Elite Member
Welding wouldn't be a problem for that repair and what I would do. If you think you might have to weld it anyways I wouldn't use job weld or an epoxy first, just makes a lot more work to weld.
Kubota castings are very nice and typically weld easily, I've done a number of repairs on trans cases in large trash trucks, very dirty and not fun but doable.
Acetone is my my cleaner of choice but the GREEN crc brakeclean will work also as it doesn't contain chlorine or the other nasty stuff.
Give you an idea of how dirty, this is a picture of a repair from where the pto shaft came appart and smacked the trans case cracking it.
Kubota castings are very nice and typically weld easily, I've done a number of repairs on trans cases in large trash trucks, very dirty and not fun but doable.
Acetone is my my cleaner of choice but the GREEN crc brakeclean will work also as it doesn't contain chlorine or the other nasty stuff.
Give you an idea of how dirty, this is a picture of a repair from where the pto shaft came appart and smacked the trans case cracking it.
Tractor Seabee
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Back in the old days of my refrigeration career (1950+) we had an aluminum brazing type alloy. It was low temp, had its own flux and could be used on any aluminum alloy and even aluminum to copper, bronze, or brass. We carried in the truck it to repair aluminum evaporators and aluminum to copper connections which were becoming popular. It was our emergency product for such cases. Need to google that and see what comes up.
Ron
Ron
TMGT
Elite Member
There is still something similar out, even have a few sticks of it for weird non ferrous material that doesn't respond to welding well. Pretty tough stuff, it has its place.
Me either, structurally.... but just to stop it from leaking?
I'd try that before spending 1200 dollars
sd455dan
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HTS 2000 works plenty good for most light duty repairs
HTS 2000 Aluminum Repair - YouTube
Worked pretty good for me on a couple repairs before getting a good sized AC tig welder
Not sure if it is the exact same product Harbor freight sells
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