Buying Advice Process in buying your first tractor

[SDAnnette]

Hello All,
Like many threads I have read, it is my first tractor purchase. I have read many forum posts detailing the importance of deal support(especially for someone with little tractor knowledge). I have my spreadsheet and have been visited the dealerships to drive the tractors on the lot. It seems a little "fake" though to be driving around on asphalt trying to evaluate whether the machine will do the job at our property.

Would someone more saavy give their 2cents about what I should ask for, try out, etc. One dealer offered to bring the tractor onsite to try out. If I do that, what other considerations? I know I will get it dirty, what if I scuff up the loader bucket? I know these questions probably sound silly to most of you, but I just wanted to understand what I am committing to and if there are other questions i should be asking in the context of "dealer support" and "negotiating" because the person I am negotiating with, is not the person I will be talking/seeing when there is an issue with the tractor. How do you evaluate the "service department"?

Outside of the general, "When buying a tractor", specifically, I live outside of San Diego and took some pictures of the property that I tried to add to my profile. I think I have narrowed it down to a YN359 new, but model year 2018 with bucket and box at $42,200 +tax is the quote. As I have browsed forums, I know that there are states that can get better deals, but here it isn't a large agricultural area and not much haggling inclined. Both Kubota and Yanmar, as well as Deere had more of a "This is the price, do you want it mentality". Maybe the Yanmar person will have some flexibility, since the tractor is onsite, and I am closer to purchasing(started in May looking). For some of the work I have planned developing our property, I like the idea of the quick clamp bucket solutions for shovel attachments and receiver hitches.

thank you to all that help on this forum. I tried to be more educated and search threads before posting but if I missed and article or post that answers these, please direct me!

 

[shooterdon]

I had two spreadsheets. One for the various models and another for the tasks I wanted to accomplish and the amount of time it would take to do those tasks. Add in the attachments you will need/want. Wound up not getting a backhoe when the numbers did not make sense for me.

If you are storing it inside, check the height of your garage door. I picked the largest tractor that would fit.

Having a test run on your property is useful. One dealer allowed me to use the tractor for two days over the weekend and it was a good test.

 

[mred2]

I have been on tractor most of my and still test drove most that I looked at. A lot of dealers will have a demo tractor they will bring out. Good dealers will work with you. Take your time, look at all, stop, think again and go the best route for you. Test runs are the best to test the tractor, the size of the tractor, the power, and if you feel you could stay on it for 8 hours a day.

 

[jeff9366]

This is my first tractor purchase.

I have visited dealerships to drive tractors on the lot. It seems a little "fake" to be driving around on asphalt trying to evaluate whether the machine will do the job at our property.

As a tractor novice, driving a tractor around your property may lead to a tractor purchase, but not an optimum tractor purchase.

New tractor operators are often intimidated by how unstable tractors with small front wheels and large rear wheels are and tend to buy too light, too small as a result. ((Tractors seem to shrink after about twenty hours of operating experience.))

The dealer will deliver a tractor with a Loader but no implements and no counterbalance, so the Loader will not lift much, but neither can you easily damage the Loader without counterbalance.


Most OPs seeking advice describe their land and the projects they foresee for wanting to buy a tractor then wait for divergent advice from respondents. In questioning respondents you will probably reach a good decision.

 

[ovrszd]

Welcome to TBN.

I'm with Jeff. You offered no info as to your intended uses.

Fill us in on the tractor dream/goal.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

Good advice given by many to me was buy bigger than you think you need. The first time I got on an mx5200 i thought it was enormous. After a few days on my property it felt small.

 

[Imold]

This is what I went through. I let the salesman know that my property was 12.7 acres with about 6 acres of mowed grass and I showed him some pics of my property, he asked if I was going to do anything with the woods surrounding my mowed area and I said no, I値l be mowing and taking care of my driveway which is 330ft long and moving some gravel and dirt around plus putting a garden in next year.

After looking at the 1723e, 1715 and 1705 and asking as many questions as I could think of( this was my 3rd trip to this dealer ) I ended up buying the GC1705 with a FEL, 60 inch MMM, 48 inch Box Blade and a 60 inch Back Blade, I will get a tiller next year and possibly going with a 48 Bush Hog or 60 finishing mower if I have issues with the MMM with my disability.

Hoping to pick up the 1705 Friday or early next week. Should add that I did look at other brands of sub compacts and went with MF, I spent a lot of hours reading info and going through this forum before buying my tractor and it was all worth it.

 

[SDAnnette]

I appreciate the general advice. I was most curious in the process and working with the salesperson. I added some pictures to the original post. It took me awhile to figure it out. I wanted to add them to my profile......

I was originally looking at tractors that were smaller(YT235) because of the unstable feeling that jeff9366 mention. After trying other machines and seeing how tough the land is, I think I need something bigger. I appreciate the perspective, MechanicalGuy.

For choosing a specific tractor, I have 6 acres that we are developing and gravel road to maintain. It is tough scrubby land that we hit blue granite and a lot of up and down on the property. The big grading has been done by bulldozer, but as I add chicken pens and landscaping, I am finding I need something to help move material, level areas, and dig holes.

I used a miniskid steer that kept stalling out, and I jumped around behind a 13hp rototiller. It is time for a tractor. My neighbor uses a JD4210, and he said he wouldn't go any lighter or less powerful. I intend to have the wheels filled for stability, not much chance of freezing here. It will live under a carport I suspect, maybe a container storage box when it is empty of our stuff(after house built). I will check the door size, but I got the high top, I think it is over 9'.

For digging multiple holes for trees, I originally looked at the backhoe attachment, but the numbers $$ just didn't work for me. I will probably rent a mini excavator, unless someone on here loves their auger? The posts I have seen, seems like people said they used it, and then it laid around, instead, use the money to rent and get something more powerful.

Thank you for taking interest in my situation. I will answer more specific questions as I long in. I'm not great with forums. I almost asked one of my kids to work on it!

 

[Imold]

I had to dig some holes and instead of buying I rented a auger for 75.00 for 8 hours, it was a 12hp hydraulic that one person could move around, I made 22 12” holes and a few bigger holes by drilling holes next to each other.
Guess what I’m saying is I got all the holes done for 75.00 and don’t have a auger or backhoe lying around my property although I have read that once you get a backhoe you find all kinds of things to use it for, things you never thought of doing because you never had the means.

Sub compact and compact tractors are addicting just like archery, long range shooting, airguns etc etc.

 

[Citydude]

Your neighbor, having a 4210, has given good advice for your requirements. With the hilly terrain, get front wheel assist (4 wheel drive) also.

I appreciate the general advice. I was most curious in the process and working with the salesperson. I added some pictures to the original post. It took me awhile to figure it out. I wanted to add them to my profile......

I was originally looking at tractors that were smaller(YT235) because of the unstable feeling that jeff9366 mention. After trying other machines and seeing how tough the land is, I think I need something bigger. I appreciate the perspective, MechanicalGuy.

For choosing a specific tractor, I have 6 acres that we are developing and gravel road to maintain. It is tough scrubby land that we hit blue granite and a lot of up and down on the property. The big grading has been done by bulldozer, but as I add chicken pens and landscaping, I am finding I need something to help move material, level areas, and dig holes.

I used a miniskid steer that kept stalling out, and I jumped around behind a 13hp rototiller. It is time for a tractor. My neighbor uses a JD4210, and he said he wouldn't go any lighter or less powerful. I intend to have the wheels filled for stability, not much chance of freezing here. It will live under a carport I suspect, maybe a container storage box when it is empty of our stuff(after house built). I will check the door size, but I got the high top, I think it is over 9'.

For digging multiple holes for trees, I originally looked at the backhoe attachment, but the numbers $$ just didn't work for me. I will probably rent a mini excavator, unless someone on here loves their auger? The posts I have seen, seems like people said they used it, and then it laid around, instead, use the money to rent and get something more powerful.

Thank you for taking interest in my situation. I will answer more specific questions as I long in. I'm not great with forums. I almost asked one of my kids to work on it!

 

[jeff9366]

For digging multiple holes for trees, I originally looked at the backhoe attachment, but the numbers $$ just didn't work for me.

If you purchase a tractor with a bare tractor weight of 3,800 pounds or more, then option in a Front End Loader, A $450 clamp on bucket spade is all you need for tree planting.


VENDER: Tractor and Skidsteer bucket spade shovel

 

[jeff9366]

I was originally looking at tractors that were smaller(YT235) because of the unstable feeling that jeff9366 mention. After trying other machines and seeing how tough the land is, I think I need something bigger. It is time for a tractor. My neighbor uses a JD4210, and he said he wouldn't go any lighter or less powerful.

For choosing a specific tractor, I have 6 acres that we are developing and gravel road to maintain. It is tough scrubby land that we hit blue granite and a lot of up and down on the property. The big grading has been done by bulldozer, but as I add chicken pens and landscaping, I am finding I need something to help move material, level areas, and dig holes.

John Deere 4210
2002 - 2004 4000 Ten Compact Series
Compact Utility tractor
Previous model: John Deere 4200
Series next: John Deere 4310
Series back: John Deere 4115

Manufacturer: John Deere
Factory: Augusta, Georgia, USA

John Deere 4210 Engine:
Yanmar 1.3L 3-cyl diesel
John Deere 4210 Power:
Engine (gross): 27 hp [20.1 kW]
PTO (claimed): 23.5 hp [17.5 kW] (gear)
22 hp [16.4 kW] (hydro)
Capacity:
Fuel: 10 gal [37.9 L]
Hydraulic system: 6.3 gal [23.8 L] (gear)
6.8 gal [25.7 L] (hydro)
Front axle: 4.7 qts [4.4 L]

3-Point Hitch:
Rear Type: I
Rear lift (at 24"/610mm): 1,700 lbs [771 kg]

Power Take-off (PTO):
Rear PTO: independent
Rear RPM: 540
Mid PTO: optional
Mid RPM: 2100

Dimensions & Tires:
Wheelbase: 65 inches [165 cm]
Weight: 2375 to 2675 pounds

Mechanical:
Chassis: 4x2 2WD
4x4 MFWD 4WD
Differential lock: mechanical
Steering: power
Brakes: wet disc
Cab: Two-post ROPS. Foldable ROPS optional.

Hydraulics:
Type: open center
Capacity: 6.3 gal [23.8 L] (gear)
6.8 gal [25.7 L] (hydro)
Pressure: 2125 psi [146.5 bar]
Valves: 5
Pump flow: 7.0 gpm [26.5 lpm]
Total flow: 12.3 gpm [46.6 lpm]
Steering flow: 5.3 gpm [20.1 lpm]




The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

When considering a tractor purchase, bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second and (narrowly) rear wheel ballast third.

If you research 4-WD tractors with a bare tractor weight 2,500 to 3,000 pounds you should have a capable tractor for your ground engagement work, not too large for six acres. Every tractor brand has entries in this weight category, which is in the mainstream of compact tractor specifications.

Spreading the rear wheels/tires is the most effective manner in which to increase tractor stability. Filling the rear tires with liquid is second. If the slopes on your land make you nervous, have both done.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

Manufacturer: John Deere
Factory: Augusta, Georgia, USA

.

Whoops. That has to be a typo. I highly doubt that anything is manufactured there.

 

[jeff9366]

Deere still operates a large tractor factory in Augusta.

It is highly flexible. What Deere models come out of that plant varies during the year.

I had some correspondence with Peter @ TractorData.com. He expressed difficulty in keeping his output records regarding August accurate.


"Thank you for the email. Yes, I should update the 1-4 series production data for Deere.

To be honest, it is increasingly difficult to track it, which is why I often ignore it. Deere has switched assembly location in the middle of a production run in the past based on factory loads and economic factors.

Global manufacturing has entirely changed the idea of where a machine is "built".

---
Peter Easterlund
TractorData.com

 

[chim]

The title made me think of the strategy I should have employed when shopping for the first tractor in 1989. Buy your 5th tractor first!

 

[Egon]

Looking at the OP’s pictures of his area I’d think the JD 4210 or the equivalent in a different make should work well. A backhoe might be very useful in the soil conditions the OP has. ( I’m thinking when it’s dry it will be tough digging. )

 

[SDAnnette]

Looking at the OP痴 pictures of his area I壇 think the JD 4210 or the equivalent in a different make should work well. A backhoe might be very useful in the soil conditions the OP has. ( I知 thinking when it痴 dry it will be tough digging. )

Funny you should mention. If I can attach the picture of an MX5200, 250hrs, with backhoe $29k. It has 3 aux hydraulics. I just have to get the dealer to swap our those turf tires.....

I also just noticed in the part number it is a MX5200-DW, which I think is manual transmission, not HST. Clutching then, I guess. Any advantage to this version? I was inclined to the the HST. The Serial is 54308 and engine serial 7EY3422, which I get is 03 series engine, year= 2014, in Dec 3422 off the line.

It was a trade in, I may be demo'ing it at our place, but I would appreciate comments.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

Funny you should mention. If I can attach the picture of an MX5200, 250hrs, with backhoe $29k. It has 3 aux hydraulics. I just have to get the dealer to swap our those ag tires.....

I also just noticed in the part number it is a MX5200-DW, which I think is manual transmission, not HST. Clutching then, I guess. Any advantage to this version? I was inclined to the the HST. The Serial is 54308 and engine serial 7EY3422, which I get is 03 series engine, year= 2014, in Dec 3422 off the line.

It was a trade in, I may be demo'ing it at our place, but I would appreciate comments.

View attachment 616632View attachment 616633

That's not only got a disadvantageous transmission, but it's been sabotaged with turf tires! Stay away!

Unless that's what you want.

 

[Egon]

The transmission choice is a personal mater but for myself I would pass for an HST. Just so much easier to work with.

in the past I have put many hours of loader work on a Kubota B7100 HST with no tire problems. Granted it is a toy in comparison but it is all relevant to work/size ratio.

 

[Jstpssng]

I don't like a backhoe for planting, unless you dig a very large hole then fill it in. Unless careful you end up with holes with tapered sides, and the roots tend to follow the edge of the disturbed soil. In the orchard years ago we used a PTO mounted post hole digger with 24" auger.
I also once worked for a landscaper that had an auger mounted to a boom on a truck which worked surprisingly well.