Will a Kubota B2650 cab make it up this hill in snow

[RickB]

It’s a frigging driveway, not a gymnasium floor. If he doesn’t sit there spinning the chained up tires there will not be any APPRECIABLE damage to a well constructed asphalt driveway.

 

[OrangeMuscle]

It痴 a frigging driveway, not a gymnasium floor. If he doesn稚 sit there spinning the chained up tires there will not be any APPRECIABLE damage to a well constructed asphalt driveway.

While I can understand what your trying to say and it may be true, but if you saw my bill for paving a half mile driveway, you can understand why I am treating it like a delicate piece of art for as long as I can.

 

[atsah]

Tractor Tire Chains-Comparison-Application has a good comparison chart of types.

OP this link tells you you're best options for pavement.. I'm sure you paid plenty for that driveway, looks like top coat and all.. Mine is just the base coat and that cost a lot in itself.. If you are blowing the snow you shouldn't do much to it with a non aggressive chain..

 

[RickB]

While I can understand what your trying to say and it may be true, but if you saw my bill for paving a half mile driveway, you can understand why I am treating it like a delicate piece of art for as long as I can.

If it is a good paving job and you operate your tractor accordingly you should have no worries with standard ladder chains, 2 link or 4. A careless operator can tear up a poorly paved driveway the first time out.

 

[Fallon]

My Vbars i run only on the front have marked the concrete inside my barn. Not much, but you can see it if you look. After a only a few snows over a season. I got some old conveyer belt to put down & drive over when chained up. No tire spinning or really even turning the wheel either, just straight in or out of the barn on the concrete floor. Everything else of mine i plow is gravel & the roads on the neighborhood I travel are gravel. So other pavement or concrete damage isnt an issue.

There isnt a lot of damage to pavement from chains if you are careful, but it does some. If you spin tires with chains on you tear up a lot of stuff on both sides really quick.

 

[leonz]

While I can understand what your trying to say and it may be true, but if you saw my bill for paving a half mile driveway, you can understand why I am treating it like a delicate piece of art for as long as I can.

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I can tell you from personal experience that your driveway will weather and fade after the 2nd year and then you have to decide of you want to coat it with asphalt sealer-which is another way to spend your money. The five gallon buckets do not go very far when using the squeegee or the brushes. your lucky if you get 250 square feet out of a 5 gallon bucket of liquid sealer.

These asphalt sellers don't tell people that they driveway will fade and degrade from the four season weather conditions we have up here as they are counting on repeat business or doing seal coating.

If The municipalities were worried about the roads we drive on they would be sealcoating them every year or two. As it is they fix the road bed base or mill it up and improve the drainage and then throw down the required thickness of fine coat asphalt for the traffic density that the road is subject to.

The other thing I hate about these asphalt pavers is how they do business as they buy the asphalt by the ton at the same price the municipalities do and then they stick it to the consumer on a square foot basis.

If they bothered to sell the product better with a tonnage rate and with a flat day labor rate per day they would do much more business and have repeat business

The asphalt company making company I used to work for used soap to mix its bitumen to make it flow better when its hot in their storage tanks and tractor trailer tankers to allow it to be pumped easier when they mix the bitumen with the crushed stone as the soap in the bitumen allows the asphalt mix to be stretched further and more smoothly when the asphalt is reheated by the gas jets from the propane tanks on the paving machines as it enters the spreading augers in the paving machine.


No ones trying to get in your way, having the driveway you do presents you with some major issues over time that you have to deal with.
As it is now if you need or want to reseal it you will need to seal only half the width of the driveway each time so you can drive up to your home.

 

[robstaples]

I have a Kubota B3350 with a front hydraulic blower and turf tires and a pump on the back. I bought chains for 4 wheels after the first year. The more cross links, the less you bounce. I added UHMW plastic to my skid pads to minimize the marks and steel wear.. My drive is concrete but my neighbors have new blacktop. Pads are effective. I used 1' thick UHMW with recessed bolt holes. Concrete is harder on the pads than new blacktop. I'd expect you to get many passes out of a set. I'm on my first set, but not much snow in the last few years. ( southeast Michigan). And your drive is 10 times longer than mine.

 

[RjCorazza]

Interesting thread...
My take is that chains will at some point be necessary on a long grade like the op has. Some pavement marking will occur regardless of chain type. My preference is the Duo Grip style or 2 link ladder. The Duo Grip gives a smoother ride and is less prone to slipping when ground contact is between links like on the ladder style. There are lots of snow / ice conditions and chains.

On ice, machine weight has little effect on traction. In 95% of the conditions I plow in machine weight has a huge impact on traction. My choice was a heavy tractor (L4060, cab, loaded rears) at about 7k lbs with a front blade and rear blower. Generally speaking, weight is king in snow removal.

 

[HEC]

Interesting thread...
My take is that chains will at some point be necessary on a long grade like the op has. Some pavement marking will occur regardless of chain type. My preference is the Duo Grip style or 2 link ladder. The Duo Grip gives a smoother ride and is less prone to slipping when ground contact is between links like on the ladder style. There are lots of snow / ice conditions and chains.

On ice, machine weight has little effect on traction. In 95% of the conditions I plow in machine weight has a huge impact on traction. My choice was a heavy tractor (L4060, cab, loaded rears) at about 7k lbs with a front blade and rear blower. Generally speaking, weight is king in snow removal.

That is a great set up you have . With a half mile drive that is mentioned on this post that would be a very good choice in my opinion . My 2650 would do the job but time would be the factor to worry me . Front snow blowers have so many more moving parts to go wrong than a rear one let alone cost . For about the same money you could probably get a rear blower when absolutely needed and a front blade that would be so much faster . You could set up a rear camera so backing up wouldn't be all that bad as others have done . I have a 7ft. rear blower on my M5700 and that is twice as rugged as my front blower on the 2650 with so many less moving parts . My only problem is the M5700 is an open station so I use it as a last resort in the coldest of weather .

 

[art]

I have worked with many tractors and blowers and even loaders. On black top your best tires are the turf tires! I have a slope that is worse then that and typically have plowed down it and have not had any issues. Remember to use the float position while blowing and allow it to scrape the driveway. I don't see where you should have an issue! I typically use the middle range or high range for flexibility of speed and getting the job done and allowing the tires to work. Low range often allows to much torque to go to the wheels and cause you to spin more.