Oil & Fuel Best spray multipurpose lubricant

[Industrial Toys]

Someone should sell kits of straws AND extra rattle can nozzles.

 

[Texasmark]

I'm partial to PB myself, but it depends on the job. WD is fine for squeaky door hinges, etc. and is less messy.

Curiously, does anyone sell those little plastic straws separately? It's always the first thing that gets lost.

I don't know but I take them off any empty cans I trash.

 

[Oldoak]

I don't know but I take them off any empty cans I trash.

And I thought I was the only one who did that.

 

[Industrial Toys]

The spray paint can ones I save are always plugged!

 

[hks003]

Zep 45 has been my go to.

 

[newbury]

Someone should sell kits of straws AND extra rattle can nozzles.

I don't know but I take them off any empty cans I trash.

That's my practice also.

 

[fried1765]

The spray paint can ones I save are always plugged!

Put them in a baby food size jar with a little laquer thinner.
Let the jar sit for a while and shake,..... maybe repeat.
I clean spray can nozzles like this all the time.

 

[Bigkrank]

I always take the nozzles off the paint cans and spray carb cleaner thru them after use.

 

[milkie62]

I think pretty much anything works. It's when you use nothing, that you have a problem. People have trouble getting out unlubricated fasteners, then go all overboard with NEVER SEIZE. A little dab of any old grease would have prevented the problem.

Don't know about grease even though it would help. I use never seize on everything and never had issues taking something apart. Holds up to heat better than grease also.

 

[Billrog]

After use I've been pulling the tips off and spraying through them with air from my compressor seems to work I've been using this method for a no. of years.

 

[Industrial Toys]

My Dad would not let me put a fastener together without a dab of (any old) grease from probably age three! Never had the grease fail. I mean, I'm not using it in the space program.

 

[looch]

My Dad would not let me put a fastener together without a dab of (any old) grease from probably age three! Never had the grease fail. I mean, I'm not using it in the space program.

Same - dad was a tool and die maker earlier in his career.

I was changing back to summer tires on my car and wanted to look up the torque spec in the manual. To my astonishment, the manual recommended against greasing the lug bolts as doing so could "cause them to loosen." Really Mercedes - spreading that falsehood? How are you supposed to achieve the prescribed torque on a dry thread?

 

[Bigkrank]

Lube the threads on a GM 12mm wheel stud and tighten lug nut to torque. You will be replacing broken studs.

 

[gsganzer]

Corrosion-X, and Boeshield T-9 are both very good anti-corrosion products.
But .....I actually prefer the Boeshield T-9.

Boelube is a great product too. We use it for drilling and tapping.

 

[Cougsfan]

I was changing back to summer tires on my car and wanted to look up the torque spec in the manual. To my astonishment, the manual recommended against greasing the lug bolts as doing so could "cause them to loosen." Really Mercedes - spreading that falsehood? How are you supposed to achieve the prescribed torque on a dry thread?

You could write a book on the variabilities involved in torquing a bolt. Most people think that torquing a bolt to an exact setting on a torque wrench will give identical "clamping" results from one bolt to another. Not true at all. Things such as cleanliness of threads, amount and type of lube (if used), the thread pitch, the "trueness" in the cutting or machining of the threads, the type of washer (if used), the properties of the metal in the threads, the torque wrench used and how it is used, plus other factors affect the clamping power of a particular torque setting. It is not nearly as cut and dried, or as sacred of a value as most people think.
I like to use anti-seize compound on threads (especially stainless threads which are prone to seizing) and just torque all of them in a set equally and call it good.

 

[masscity]

I learned the hard way about torqueing lubed threads. I read on TBN that you should lower the torque by about 20% on lubed threads or you will over torque them.

 

[Cougsfan]

The range of acceptable torque values for a bolt is also grossly misunderstood. People tend to think there is a very small range of acceptable torque values for all applications. In most cases, the minimum torque is just above where the nut or bolt will work loose. The maximum torque value is just below where you do damage to the threads or the piece that you are clamping. There are exceptions, such as cylinder heads that could warp or leak if a relatively small variation of torque is used on the multiple head bolts. The torque value given by the manufacturer for, lets say, lug nuts might be 80 ft lb, and would be in the middle of the range. Under un-lubed conditions that "safe & acceptable" min/max range may be 60 to 100 ft lb, while under lubricated conditions it may only be 50 to 80 ft lb. So it is best just to use common sense rather than religiously follow the recommended numbers to the tee.
Are we off topic, or what?

 

[schoolsout]

I've never used Fluid Film for lube, but I do spray it on springs on my boat trailer about every 6 months to protect from saltwater. CRC 6-56 is a good "lubricant" and I use it to spray under the cowling of outboards to protect from salt spray. PB is my go to for rusty/frozen stuff. WD 40 is hardly ever used by me unless it's within easy reach and still on the shelf from 2003...

 

[200mph]

My go to is PB Blaster, now widely available in auto parts stores, Lowes, etc.
.
My favorite is Castle Thrust... not so easy to find, but performs superior to anything I've tried.