Closing on 16 acres, help with tractor choice

[jpover]

Friends,

I need a little help / advice. We're closing on 16 acres this month and I believe I'll need a tractor to run a bush hog to keep the place up. It was selectively logged about 5-6 years ago and would be considered "raw land". Not much terrain / hills but lots of low lying brush and some large trees. Here's where I'm at:

1) 1 acre or so for the house & yard; I'll mow this with a riding mower
2) 2 acre pond (having this built)
3) so this leaves 13 or so acres that I'll need to maintain

Although we plan on having some livestock (chickens, a milk cow and some sheep or goats) I don't plan on doing any heavy cultivating.

As far as I can tell, I just need something to run a 5 or 6 foot bush hog. I'm considering a used JD or Kubota but am still learning quite a bit about the brands and models. We're not from a family of farmers or even land owners so there's no "generational knowledge" to pull from.

Any suggestions or things I should consider? Also, I plan on having a side-by-side for checking the fence/perimeter and for other chores.

I'll keep reading on the forum here but wanted to get my questions out there for input.

Thanks!

 

[CADplans]

I have a lot of farmers in my family,,
and I have been buying tractors since 1982,,

If I had to get rid of all of my tractors, except one,, I would keep the JD 4105 in the center of this pic,,

Not to big, not too small,, for several or up to a dozen acres,,,

 

[jpover]

CADplans - thanks, I'll start giving that model a look. I've had a JD X304 mower since 2008 and it's been very reliable.

 

[ericm979]

Normal brush hogs are only good for brush with stems up to about an inch. If they're much larger than that you'll need to do something else.

 

[jeff9366]

We're closing on 16 acres this month. I'll need a tractor to maintain 13 acres. Land was selectively logged 5-6 years ago and would be considered "raw land". Not much hills but lots of low lying brush and some large trees. I just need something to run a 5 or 6 foot bush hog.

I'm considering a used JD or Kubota but am still learning quite a bit about the brands and models. We're not from a family of farmers or even land owners so there's no "generational knowledge" to pull from.

Mowing with an OPEN STATION tractor hot, disagreeable tractor work. The tractor gets filthy. The operator gets filthy. You breathe dust and mould.
Mowing in a CABBED TRACTOR with air conditioning and air filtration improves the mowing experience. Factory Cabs cost $7,000.

Rotary Mowers, like other implements, come in Light Duty, Medium Duty and Heavy Duty models. Generally speaking, there is 150 pounds of weight difference assoicoated with heavier increments. If you carefully study new mower specs, most have Category 3 drive lines. Heavy Duty models have Category 4 drive lines. Dealers often refer to HD Category 4 mowers as "Right-of-Way" Mowers.
If you buy too light a Rotary Cutter, then cut saplings, it will soon visit the shop.

25 horsepower will power a Light Duty 5' Rotary Mower
40 horsepower will power a Heavy Duty 5' Rotary Mower

35 horsepower will power a Light Duty 6' Rotary Mower
45 horsepower will power a Heavy Duty 6' Rotary Mower


Here is a mowing calculator. Speed will be determined by how rough your ground is and how many stumps have to be avoided. Likely speed range 2-1/2 mph to 5 mph. Most mow in HST/MED range.

Mowing Calcuator | How many acres can I mow in an hour

 

[jeff9366]

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to identify potential tractor applications first, then determine bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in residential or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is generally greater than depreciation on a tractor.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My Kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after seven years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​

I recommend minimum bare tractor weight of 2,700 pounds for a 5' Rotary Mower maintaining 13 acres.
I recommend minimum bare tractor weight of 3,500 pounds for a 6' Rotary Mower maintaining 13 acres.

Weight will help keep you safe as you learn.

 

[Overtaxed]

You going to mow 13 acres regularly? If so, are you retired or do you have time constraints? Mowing that much land says "batwing mower" to me with a 50+HP tractor. I mow a little less than that 2X a month in the summer and just went to a 12ft batwing, it was taking way too long with a 72in mower. Your in TX, right? To me, a lot of mowing, in Texas heat says "cab with a batwing" as the best way to get it done in comfort with a reasonable amount of time invested.

As far as a side by side, I have a Honda Pioneer 1000-4. It's great, you can seat 4 if you need to without the length of the a dedicated 4 seater. If you need 4 seats and a bed all the time, I'd look elsewhere, but if you want a normal sized UTV with the potential to seat 4, it's a great choice, I really like mine.

 

[dodge man]

I would first figure out how often you will mow. Most people who brush hog only do it 2 or 3 times a year, so a 6 foot will probably be okay. You will want an end loader. Also figure how you will take care of a drive way. Will it be gravel and how long? The same tractor will most likely take caro of the drive it is just a matter of getting a box blade or rear blade with the tractor. Good luck, sounds like an exciting time coming up in your life.

 

[FM504]

That’s a lot of land to be thinking of a 5-6’ brush hog. I’ve got a 10’ double blade and it does well behind my 100hp tractor, I’ll hog 30-40 acres 1-2 times a year on my place and it still takes a while. I’d find the widest cut the tractor you are considering will handle. Either draw bar or 3pt. And always get a little more tractor than you think you will need. I’ve never heard anyone say “my tractor is just to big, to heavy or to stout”. It can be an expensive lesson to learn.

 

[FM504]

That’s a lot of land to be thinking of a 5-6’ brush hog. I’ve got a 10’ double blade and it does well behind my 100hp tractor, I’ll hog 30-40 acres 1-2 times a year on my place and it still takes a while. I’d find the widest cut the tractor you are considering will handle. Either draw bar or 3pt. And always get a little more tractor than you think you will need. I’ve never heard anyone say “my tractor is just to big, to heavy or to stout”. It can be an expensive lesson to learn.

Side by side, Polaris ranger. I’ve got over 3000 miles on mine with 0 problems.

 

[farm boy00]

No big recommendation on tractor but on a side by side I would buy a ford ranger instead. Can haul and tow more, has full cab with heat (and usually ac), usually cheap/easy to work on, and are road legal vehicles.

A good ranger can be found for $1,000-2,000 (around my location) versus $5,000+ for a good side by side.

 

[ericm979]

I've had both a beater 4x4 Toyota farm truck and a sxs. For my steep wooded land the sxs is much better- it can go places the truck can't. But the truck was cheaper and road legal and hauled more. If the land is flat and open and the ground is not soft it may be a better option.

In my earlier reply I was assuming that "maintaining" 13 acres that had been select cut and has brush on it doesn't mean mowing the whole thing. I haven't run a batwing mower but I expect that they don't get along with trees very well.

 

[radios1]

+1 on a cabbed tractor, think of your lungs..

 

[PEJ5]

Dr i+/]¶%

Edit:. That was advice from my pocket!!! I was not swearing at you.

Mowing sounds like work - create a forest!

 

[jpover]

Thanks for all the great input - much appreciated! Now I've got to take some time to process/digest it all.

I also appreciate the side by side feedback.

PEJ5 - no sweat, that's funny that you "pocket posted"!

 

[3gunr]

Look at branson and Ls tractors lots of bang for the buck. and they have cabbed models to . 50 hp with a 7 ft cutter would work well. definitly get an fel with the tractor.

 

[WM75Guy]

We have 14 acres and horses. If you are only going to have 1 tractor, get one with an FEL. I would recommend something in the 40-60 HP range, for the weight and loader lifting capacity. Take a look at the dealers that are around you and don't be afraid to stop by someone's place where they are using a tractor. Most of us don't mind answering questions about our tractors.

I use the pallet forks more than the bucket to unload stuff off the trailer, pick up limbs, or move hay and stuff around. The extra weight of the FEL smooths out the ride while mowing and keeps the front end from being light. I have 200# of suitcase weights on the front of the Boomer 8N and am going to add 300# more for that very reason. Occasionally the front tires don't stick in a turn so I need more weight up front.

I mow 2 acres around the buildings and arena with the Kubota ZTR. The rest I mow with the Boomer 8N and a 6' cutter, easier to get around trees and such, it does not have an FEL. Mowing is therapy for me, put on my hearing protection connected to music and enjoy myself. Yes, it is hot at times in East Texas, so I either mow early or late evening. Our Kawasaki Mule is used almost every day to pull the manure spreader when we clean stalls. It also pulls a 4'X4' drag harrow to break up manure or level ground after I till it.

Both of my tractors are New Holland. My local dealer quit handling NH not long after I bought the Boomer 8N. I am happy with them, just have to go a ways for service. But that is what a good truck and trailer is for, so you don't have to depend on someone else to do the hauling. I haul hay 3-4 times a year so the 20' Big Tex GN trailer is essential. I buy stall shavings by the pallet from TSC to get a discount. I use the tractor to unload them and a pallet jack to move them around the barn.

Good luck and have fun.

 

[bruceha2000]

Fence the property and get sheep!

In addition to the things mentioned, consider FEL lift capacity and PTO power once you have decided on the tasks you will do with the tractor. You'll want to make sure that the 3 PT attachments of the size you think you need can be driven by the PTO. And I agree on the pallet forks, very useful and not that expensive. I've twice used mine to unload attachments from box trucks. No way I could get a 700 pound mower off a truck without the tractor AND the forks. I also use the pallet forks to move my fire wood "cages" to the house and to dig out rocks in my field (in conjunction with the backhoe). And I use them to carry logs cut to 8' lengths from the woods for blocking and splitting up by the barn.

You want a quick attach on the loader arms. If you are going to use your side by side (or Ranger) to check the perimeter, you'll be building a trail if not the equivalent of a logging road. Probably want a box scraper for that and (probably doesn't need to be said) it needs to be at least as wide as your tractor. Might be something you can rent if you won't need it for regular driveway maintenance.

 

[wassup8687]

Take a look at Kioti. They're excellent tractors and have plenty of power and weight.

I don't think you need a 60 hp tractor on 13 acres. I have a Kioti CK2610 HST and 40 acres. It's plenty of tractor for me. Half of my property is fields and the rest wooded.

 

[Atchuuu]

I have nearly the identical setup that you will have. 15 acres with a 4 acre pond. The property is cleared except for a handful of pines, fruit trees and some oaks. I have a Land Pride 6' mower. I cut the property every 10-14 days during growing season. It takes a long time. As Jeff and others have said, a cab sure is nice for keeping you out of the dirt, heat and bugs. If you can afford it I highly recommend the cab.

Others migh recommend cutting with a larger/commercial ZTR mower. I have one and it is only a 42" deck but it runs a little faster than the tractor so the time it takes to cut the property is pretty similar. The tractor though is multi purpose and if you have a FEL you will find all sorts of things to do with it. I have removed plenty of old stumps, spread loads of dirt, removed small trees, dug holes with a 3pt auger and used pallet forks to install over 100 fence posts. The same pallet forks allowed me to carry a generator around the property to paint all the fence posts with a spray gun.

Like you, I had no prior tractor experience. So I was not brand loyal and looked at several. Be sure to sit on and use anything you are thinking of buying. I almost purchased a new tractor but after test driving it I realized the cab area was too small for me. Seat would not move back far enough. Thankfully I figured that out before I made the purchase. No way could I sit like that for hours at a time.