Husqvarna 550xp repaired-ish

[Oldpath05]

I'll post this 550xp fix here so's it can be found easier by a search and keep people from getting upset over off topic or thread jacking. I have a 2013 550xp, this past fall I noticed it was loosing power while finishing up my firewood like maby the filter was getting clogged, so after the firewood was all done I cleaned filter and put on shelf for few weeks. Then the next time I used the saw it still was not riving up like it used to but it ran so I did some cutting, then a few weeks ago I went to use it and it seem to sound a little different but stil ran, I cut a little then couple days after that I went to use the saw and would just start and stop.

So last weekend I took it to a repair guy and he tried to start the saw, it ran for few seconds and stopped, he said sound a little loud inside somethings not quite right, he said give him couple days and he'l tell me whats wrong, I call back and says carbon buildup on piston and stuck ring, about $50.00. ask him wha'd the carbon come from? he said ethanol in fuel. Ok so I pick the saw up today, he said he had it going and it's all fixed with new ring, then this afternoon went to buck up some logs with it and when I started the saw up the saw still to me dont sound right, dont start good, runs rough, wont idle and now it revs up to half throttle by it self, very dangerous to use. I'm thinking to myself that's the first saw that acted like this with me on ethanol fuel and it's been around I think for 20 years or more so I'm thinking something else is wrong with my 550xp, I might have to take it to an expert if there is one around. But in the mean time I'll probably have get another saw next weekend, what and where I don know.

I made a video of starting the saw in todays nice fresh air, notice theres no black flies around, wish I shut the tractor off though but atleast it runs great, and was going to video the saw ruining half throttle but my camera died, aint that how things usually go.... Maybe if you listen close you can hear how the saw sounds, to me it's like has a crackling banging noise, I think there's still something wrong inside and or carburetor is still messed up.
55xp Chainsaw Repair - YouTube

PS if anyone has ethanol problems in anything you can post them here even if it's a coffee maker, I dont care.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I would take it to a Husky dealer and ask him to make sure it has all the updates and to re-flash the puter…

That will get you started over on carb settings...

SR

 

[sd455dan]

I'll post this 550xp fix here so's it can be found easier by a search and keep people from getting upset over off topic or thread jacking. I have a 2013 550xp, this past fall I noticed it was loosing power while finishing up my firewood like maby the filter was getting clogged, so after the firewood was all done I cleaned filter and put on shelf for few weeks. Then the next time I used the saw it still was not riving up like it used to but it ran so I did some cutting, then a few weeks ago I went to use it and it seem to sound a little different but stil ran, I cut a little then couple days after that I went to use the saw and would just start and stop.

So last weekend I took it to a repair guy and he tried to start the saw, it ran for few seconds and stopped, he said sound a little loud inside somethings not quite right, he said give him couple days and he'l tell me whats wrong, I call back and says carbon buildup on piston and stuck ring, about $50.00. ask him wha'd the carbon come from? he said ethanol in fuel. Ok so I pick the saw up today, he said he had it going and it's all fixed with new ring, then this afternoon went to buck up some logs with it and when I started the saw up the saw still to me dont sound right, dont start good, runs rough, wont idle and now it revs up to half throttle by it self, very dangerous to use. I'm thinking to myself that's the first saw that acted like this with me on ethanol fuel and it's been around I think for 20 years or more so I'm thinking something else is wrong with my 550xp, I might have to take it to an expert if there is one around. But in the mean time I'll probably have get another saw next weekend, what and where I don know.

I made a video of starting the saw in todays nice fresh air, notice theres no black flies around, wish I shut the tractor off though but atleast it runs great, and was going to video the saw ruining half throttle but my camera died, aint that how things usually go.... Maybe if you listen close you can hear how the saw sounds, to me it's like has a crackling banging noise, I think there's still something wrong inside and or carburetor is still messed up.
55xp Chainsaw Repair - YouTube

PS if anyone has ethanol problems in anything you can post them here even if it's a coffee maker, I dont care.

"dont sound right, dont start good, runs rough, wont idle and now it revs up to half throttle by it self, very dangerous to use".

edited
From your video Sounds and acts a lot like an air leak into the crankcase causing the saw to run lean.
That can cause scoring, piston, and ring damage also.

If this is a computerized saw and a re-flash doesn't cure it...

I would suggest having a vacuum test performed on the crankcase.

and as Sawyer Rob said in this case a Husky certified repair shop is probably the best place to start.

Intake boot, Impulse lines, crankshaft seals and case mating surfaces are all possibilities.

Sometimes a tank vent gets plugged- but it usually takes a while to draw a vacuum on the fuel tank.

ps . did a little you tube search and these 550 xp's seem to have a common reported failure... the clutch side crank bearing [(nylon) (ball bearing cage) fails] - which then takes out the crank seal- which then causes the lean mixture piston/ cylinder damage... this would also explain the mechanical crackling banging sound.
The 550xp requires specialized fixture tools to split the case- (if this is the root cause) so a Husky repair shop is probably the best bet.

 

[xyz123]

Did he check for air leak? Did he check crank bearings for the noise or rod bearing big and small bearings while reringing? Did he update the filmware? Did he check the transfer cover gasket for air leaks? Did he ever do a pressure test? Crank seals?

Name of shop?

chainsaw repair website https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/

chainsaw repair group CHAINSAW REPAIR Public Group | Facebook

 

[RandyT]

I would remove the starter and the bar and chain, and see if the crankshaft wiggles in the case. Sounds like a crankshaft bearing failure causing the flywheel to hit the ignition module. Remove the starter and see if the flywheel magnet has a shiny line on it.

 

[Oldpath05]

Did he check for air leak? Did he check crank bearings for the noise or rod bearing big and small bearings while reringing? Did he update the filmware? Did he check the transfer cover gasket for air leaks? Did he ever do a pressure test? Crank seals?

Name of shop?

chainsaw repair website https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/

chainsaw repair group CHAINSAW REPAIR Public Group | Facebook

I doubt he check any of those things if he did h,e'd wouldn't say the saw was fixed after he started it up. To me that's a sign of a top notch mechanic that knows to check stuff like that and that's probably why he lives in a round down trailer house and works out of old trailer truck trailer, your typical red neck repair shop. I had my reservations when I pulled in, oh he knows how to put new parts in but not sure what or where they need to go because of not trouble shooting and doing test.

If anyone of a half way decent of a mechanic, after cleaning carbon off piston and putting on new ring then start the saw up would know there's still something wrong and not tell a customer that the saw is fixed. What it sounds like is, I tell him that theres still something wrong, he'll sasy bring it back and he'l put in another part, tel me it's all fixed, $100.00. Then I get the saw and something is still wrong, and that goes on on and on til I have $400.00 in the saw and then there still could be something wrong until every part has been replaced. No thank you, I'll just go somewhere else if there is somewhere else. OBTW thanks for the links.

I would remove the starter and the bar and chain, and see if the crankshaft wiggles in the case. Sounds like a crankshaft bearing failure causing the flywheel to hit the ignition module. Remove the starter and see if the flywheel magnet has a shiny line on it.

Good tip, I'll have my son check those things this week since now he's only doing shingle mill maintenance and has more mechanical skills then I do.

 

[xyz123]

I'm just a redneck chainsaw shop. But dang this guy :confused2:

Reason I wanted to know the name of shop, I booted a guy from Maine that worked out of a trailer. Booted him a few years ago from the group. Could see through his BS if it is him. But who knows. PM me shop name if you like.

This is just bench #1 at my place and I have 3 benches.

See REDNECK is my shop name to the right.

 

[Oldpath05]

"dont sound right, dont start good, runs rough, wont idle and now it revs up to half throttle by it self, very dangerous to use".

edited
From your video Sounds and acts a lot like an air leak into the crankcase causing the saw to run lean.
That can cause scoring, piston, and ring damage also.

If this is a computerized saw and a re-flash doesn't cure it...

I would suggest having a vacuum test performed on the crankcase.

and as Sawyer Rob said in this case a Husky certified repair shop is probably the best place to start.

Intake boot, Impulse lines, crankshaft seals and case mating surfaces are all possibilities.

Sometimes a tank vent gets plugged- but it usually takes a while to draw a vacuum on the fuel tank.

ps . did a little you tube search and these 550 xp's seem to have a common reported failure... the clutch side crank bearing [(nylon) (ball bearing cage) fails] - which then takes out the crank seal- which then causes the lean mixture piston/ cylinder damage... this would also explain the mechanical crackling banging sound.
The 550xp requires specialized fixture tools to split the case- (if this is the root cause) so a Husky repair shop is probably the best bet.

Are you kidding me............... A nylon bearing cage on an expensive pro saw, this aint no big box store saw, it's a 550xp with auto tune, but to me it does sound like an air leak somewhere and that's why it's not running smooth and or barely running. Does the saw have to be split to replace that bearing? This is sounding more like a chainsaw replacement unless I can fix the saw without special tools, I thought the only special tool was a bench press which cam be improvised.

I dont even think that red neck repair shop know how to refresh the auto tune on the saw and even if he did and done it, dont see how a caburator can be adjusted to run when the when air leak and or vacuum leak is prevalent and bearing failure could be the problem. Thanks for the input.

 

[Oldpath05]

I'm just a redneck chainsaw shop. But dang this guy :confused2:

Reason I wanted to know the name of shop, I booted a guy from Maine that worked out of a trailer. Booted him a few years ago from the group. Could see through his BS if it is him. But who knows. PM me shop name if you like.

This is just bench #1 at my place and I have 3 benches.

See REDNECK is my shop name to the right.

View attachment 586925

I hope I can read those signs when I zoom in, I love a shop with humerus signs especially if pro 2nd ammen. This guy used to work at this saw shop 10 years ago at Cousins saw shop with lumber mill, all closed up now and dont look like that mill has been run in several years, but it made a good location to sell saws, dont know what happen there but seems so when I bought a saw there I vaguely remember him 10 years ago. Then around 7 years ago a younger kid was there and that's who I bought this 550xp from, now he's gone, where I don know, all's there now is a faded sign of Jonsered.

So now this guy has set up down the road about a mile guess he's been there around 6 years. A guy at work told me about him, said he was top notch small engine repair guy, this will make a good conversation when I get around him again. When I went in his shop yesterday to me it looked small and looked messy, I like stuff hung up and in it's place, cant stand stuff all over the floor.

I not sure if you heard of this guy, there's probably red neck mechanics allover the place with small shops just trying to make a living, just hard to separate the good the bad and the ugly.
Mark's Saw Shop | Windsor, ME | Saws-Sharpening & Repairing

 

[Oldpath05]

I would take it to a Husky dealer and ask him to make sure it has all the updates and to re-flash the puter…

That will get you started over on carb settings...

SR

That's probably the best bet right now, but where is there a true blue Husqvarna dealer around Me that knows there ABCs and will cross the T's when checking over a saw, I'll have to spend some networking see if I can find one, hopefully there's one closer then the upper mid west.

I remember 40 years ago there was chainsaw shops all over the place, here there and everywhere, I think what happen is the paper market and lumber mills bottomed out and now there's less loggers to buy saws, which had a ripple affect on chainsaw dealers. Then Husqvarna said we need to sell more saws so lets get into the big box stores and cater to the urbanite lumber jacks and then we can make junk and they wont know the difference and or care, urbanite loggers just like to buy stuff and JD and everyone else sees that and now their all selling junk in big box stores

 

[sd455dan]

Are you kidding me............... A nylon bearing cage on an expensive pro saw, this aint no big box store saw, it's a 550xp with auto tune, but to me it does sound like an air leak somewhere and that's why it's not running smooth and or barely running. Does the saw have to be split to replace that bearing? This is sounding more like a chainsaw replacement unless I can fix the saw without special tools, I thought the only special tool was a bench press which cam be improvised.

I dont even think that red neck repair shop know how to refresh the auto tune on the saw and even if he did and done it, dont see how a caburator can be adjusted to run when the when air leak and or vacuum leak is prevalent and bearing failure could be the problem. Thanks for the input.

Yeah- the nylon ball bearing cage really surprised me to... crazy on Husky's pro line.

What is more troubling is it appears to be proprietary and there does not seem to be a metal caged bearing that is available to replace it,
from what else was stated these auto tunes/extra air scarification saws already run hotter by nature. Some of the descriptions say the nylon comes apart and then shards poke holes right through the seal and since the individual ball bearings are free to move out of their positions around the circumference things get noisy.
i wouldn't recommend starting the saw again until the case can be pressure/vac tested.
They use a metal caged ball bearing on the flywheel side

ps. Yes the case needs split, the case is heated to about 230*'s or even a bit less and the bearings will drop right in to the case halves.

(afleetcommand) has a pretty informational vid on this
and a good description of the 550xp and the bearings

Husqvarna 550xp "Dead Saw Salvage", Crank Case Bearings & Seals - YouTube

Should you find it is the clutch side bearing/seal and want to do the repair yourself the comments section under the vid has links to the specialized tools needed

 

[ericm979]

I can tell from how it runs in the video that it's got a significant air leak. I agree that a bad crank bearing can damage the crank seal and that'd be enough to cause the air leak. Modern saws usually have the crank bearings pressed into the case halves. They usually require a special tool to split the cases without damaging them so you can press the bearing. If either crank end moves at all, even a 'click', the bearing is bad.

That's the problem with the $50 ring job... no time to check for the real cause.

Huztl has an inexpensive Husky case splitter tool if you want to try it yourself.

Plastic ball bearing cages have some advantages over steel but they don't handle being overheated as well. If the clutch is slipping or the operator 'dogs' the saw or revs it with the brake on a lot that'll put heat into the drive side bearing.

 

[xyz123]

stihl uses plastic retainers too.

 

[xyz123]

Oldpath. Never heard of that one.
But quick search shows pretty good feedback.
Maybe he dont know the autotune saws very well and was hoping. I tell folks when they bring in AT and MT saws and I cant figure it out old school ways. If saw needs to be hooked up to computer they will have to pay the dealer the big bucks.

I got lucky on a very hard to start 441c MT thinking solenoid might have went out on carb. 20 pulls to start. I put in new plug and my fresh mix and kaching. He got lucky. 3 pulls now.

 

[Oldpath05]

Yeah- the nylon ball bearing cage really surprised me to... crazy on Husky's pro line.

What is more troubling is it appears to be proprietary and there does not seem to be a metal caged bearing that is available to replace it,
from what else was stated these auto tunes/extra air scarification saws already run hotter by nature. Some of the descriptions say the nylon comes apart and then shards poke holes right through the seal and since the individual ball bearings are free to move out of their positions around the circumference things get noisy.
i wouldn't recommend starting the saw again until the case can be pressure/vac tested.
They use a metal caged ball bearing on the flywheel side

ps. Yes the case needs split, the case is heated to about 230*'s or even a bit less and the bearings will drop right in to the case halves.

(afleetcommand) has a pretty informational vid on this
and a good description of the 550xp and the bearings

Husqvarna 550xp "Dead Saw Salvage", Crank Case Bearings & Seals - YouTube

Should you find it is the clutch side bearing/seal and want to do the repair yourself the comments section under the vid has links to the specialized tools needed

Well I watched the video and saved it to my play list, thanks for finding it I even found the tool link below you mention, the video gave a lot of insight on what to expect with a few pointers, now that's the kind of chainsaw shop I need around here. I think for the here and now if all saws now are throw a-ways after a few years I might as well jump brands and give Echo a hard look see, least there open til 5 pm Sat, thought about Stihl but I frowned on on their mid range saws dew to no adjustable oilier and they close at 12 noon. The guy I took my saw to said Jonsered is changing their name to Redmax, dont know what that's all about but he said that's one reason why Jonsered got rid of their high end saws, seems like companies just cant leave well enough alone, always have to re-invent the wheel.

 

[RandyT]

Poulan, McCulloch, Redmax, and Jonsered are all Husqvarna products and there are in the process of eliminating their low end consumer tractors and push mowers. I think they are going to make some changes to their other brands of handheld products as well.

 

[Oldpath05]

Oldpath. Never heard of that one.
But quick search shows pretty good feedback.
Maybe he dont know the autotune saws very well and was hoping. I tell folks when they bring in AT and MT saws and I cant figure it out old school ways. If saw needs to be hooked up to computer they will have to pay the dealer the big bucks.

I got lucky on a very hard to start 441c MT thinking solenoid might have went out on carb. 20 pulls to start. I put in new plug and my fresh mix and kaching. He got lucky. 3 pulls now.

I manage to read most of your signs but the wife ones I cant make out, if you get time take some closer pictures, do you have the sign about (I charge $50.00/hr, if you watch I charge $75.00/hr, and if you help I charge $100.00/hr.)?

Yeah he's just an upper age guy with a limp trying to make a living but I'm older than he is. He cant know about air and vacum leak testing, and that causing problems, I dont even know how to test for that. He just saw a stuck ring and made a quick fix and blamed that on ethanol, you know everyone jumps onboard when it comes to blaming ethanol. But jeez lu-weez if anyone who run saws very much at all would know that my saw is not sounding and or running right in just a few minutes....... He sells a few saws and chains, files, most people with saws just have minor issues that ole school tricks will fix and there even some who just need a place to get their chain sharpen so if can get by doing that he's doing well, I'll still stop in there to get a chain if I'm out that way. I think in todays chainsaw repair business if someones going to be a full fledged repair guy and dealer you have to know about AT MT ABC and EFG and plastic bearings.

 

[Oldpath05]

Poulan, McCulloch, Redmax, and Jonsered are all Husqvarna products and there are in the process of eliminating their low end consumer tractors and push mowers. I think they are going to make some changes to their other brands of handheld products as well.

Oh so there is some truth to that, I didn't even know McCulloch was still around, sounds like some big changes coming, wonder what their thought process is for doing that.

 

[xyz123]

Thats why I always run and test cut with before sending back out. IF he had done that he should have been able to tell.

Had a 026 that ran fine, but when I hit the wood acted like it was cutting out. I tried few more times same thing. Back on the bench I pulled recoil cover and top cover, af cover. Started checking coil and wires. 2 places on wire had wore through and ground out on the mag case when in cut.

Fixed that and told guy and she was good to go.

 

[xyz123]

Signs for OP, still not all of them. Just some on HD.

1 is on pole on 700' driveway