puncture resistance of ag vs ind tires

[Soundguy]

Getting ready to purchase a new tractor, have the option of ag vs ind for same price.

I realize industrial are probably more $.

All I've ever used have been ag or turf. Only reason I've used turf are because they have come on things I've bought and I tend to run tires till they are bald, patched 25 times, and finally dissolve into thin air one day.

I will need traction tires for dirt and pasture work, loader work, etc. So turfs aren't an option.

I like the puncture resistance of a good beefy ag tire, but never having used industrial, have no basis for comparison.

Tractor will have loaded tires, will be 4wd, will see non traction duties such as mowing as well as very limited hard surface use. ( some asphalt and concrete).

I'm doing all this on agg/ turfs right now, and yes, my driveway has beautiful ag tire cat track scuff marks on it.. Adds character.

 

[gimmodog]

the industrial tires are alot like ag tires just not as aggressive and will not tear up the ground as bad. Unless you really think you need the aggression of ag tires I would go with the industrial

 

[Trillium Farm]

If ypu're going to do field work go with ag tires if OTOH you're going to be on hard surfaces go with industrial. If you're not using any soil engaging implements industrials may be OK

 

[jeff9366]

Stock R1/ag tires are almost always four ply.

Stock R4/industrial tires are almost always six ply. In most scenarios six ply R4 tires are 50% more puncture resistant than four ply R1 tires.

Both R1 and R4 tires can be ordered with six plies or more, but the higher the ply count the lower tire flexibility which results in moderately decreased traction.

Ply thickness on tire sidewalls is more important to some than ply thickness on tire patch in contact with the ground.

Industrials tend to have stiffer sidewalls than Ag's even if they have the same number of plys.

Most ordering Loaders also order R4/industrial tires which provide more Loader support with heavy FEL loads due to greater width. Six ply R4/industrial sidewalls bulge less under Loader loads.

R4/industrial tires wear longer over hard surfaces and provide a smoother ride than R1/ag tires. (However, relative to wear, remembering to disengage 4-WD when operating over roads is equally important.)

R4/industrial tires hold somewhat more liquid ballast than R1/ag tires.

 

[Xfaxman]

Industrial tires slid sideways on side slopes, where my Ag tires did not. :thumbdown:

 

[TractorNH]

Industrials tend to have stiffer sidewalls than Ag's even if they have the same number of plys.

 

[Soundguy]

Jeff9366 hit on my most important concern, puncture resistance. Sounds like R4 are even tougher than R1, and that's what I want.

Yes, I will do some ground engagement work. I have a 2 bottom plow, 30" rear scoop, 5&6' box blades and an angle blade., a potato pliw and a few types of low engagement cultivators.

 

[ovrszd]

If you are running in mud on steep terrain get R1. If not, get R4.

 

[Soundguy]

Seldom mud, though 4" of sugar sand might be semi common.

 

[TractorGuy]

I think loading the tires may increase the likely hood of punctures. Higher pressure also adds to the likely hood.

After eating a 600 dollar tire on my backhoe from driving over a small stump I have learned to keep pressures down to 20 psi.

I've never been a fan of loaded tires for various reasons. Wheel weights are a better alternative.

 

[Soundguy]

On my oldies I have ww. This new one , I see no provision for it, and the manufacturer loads tires on all machines with loaders. The loader would be useless without weight.

My old loader tractors are running weights and loaded tires in some cases. Not perfect, but works.

 

[TractorGuy]

How about a 3pt ballast?

 

[Soundguy]

I have and do use that, but id like to get away from a 3pt counterweight if possible. They are slightly limiting in some maneuvers and take up more trailer space if I am moving stuff between home and farm.

To be sure, its still an option if needed, but if I can get by with loaded tires I will be satisfied. I see the R4 should hold more gallons, so that is positive.

 

[oosik]

Honestly - unless you are operating in extreme conditions - I seriously doubt that you would ever notice any tractive difference between R1 or R4 tires. My R1 Firestones/rear - Titan/front are 6 ply( both front & rear ) and the rears are loaded with RimGuard.

I have an 1100 pound Rhino 950 rear blade on the 3-point in combo with the filled rear tires. I have lifted 3100 pounds with my grapple - but only high enough to not leave drag marks as I backed up. None of this horse hocky of a gigantic load on the grapple and waving it high in the air. I might be ancient but I'm not ready to go quite yet.

OH and BTW - my previous tractor, that I bought new in '82 - had R1's all around - the tires looked almost brand new when I traded it in in 2009. I'm a firm believer - keep them outta the sun except when in use.

 

[crazyal]

Industrial tires are made for just that, use in industrial settings. The tread is wider and the usually the tire is thicker. If you've never suffered from traction then chances are you'll be just fine going from Ag to Industrial on your new tractor. I have a few places where I get through it but just so I doubt I would be happy if I had industrial tires. The real advantage is loader work. Most ag tires don't like a lot of weight on them Even at full pressure when I have a full scoop of dirt the sidewalls really flex. If turning sharp they do roll over some which exposes the sidewall. I offset it by using the brakes to help steer when I can.

 

[Trillium Farm]

Industrial tires are made for just that, use in industrial settings. The tread is wider and the usually the tire is thicker. If you've never suffered from traction then chances are you'll be just fine going from Ag to Industrial on your new tractor. I have a few places where I get through it but just so I doubt I would be happy if I had industrial tires. The real advantage is loader work. Most ag tires don't like a lot of weight on them Even at full pressure when I have a full scoop of dirt the sidewalls really flex. If turning sharp they do roll over some which exposes the sidewall. I offset it by using the brakes to help steer when I can.

+1 I concur entirely.

 

[standup616]

I have second guessed many times but going industrial to save some of lawn and hope a little more puncture resistance. My first job was in automotive tire shop in 1985 and my experience/preferrence is liquid doesnt belong in a tire. I will need something to counterbalance the grapple loader when I get my machine but going to try it first and see how it behaves with a cab and my fat body in it. The only severe incline I have is probably going to be push mower only once the road gets done. I may regret my decision for the r4 in 2025 when Im retired and decide to do something other than trail maintenance and mow my field

 

[oosik]

I can see your decision on R4 tires for puncture resistance. For my 37+ years here I've always had R1's. I've got no thorns, stobs or sharps that would puncture tires. All my "lawns" are just mowed field grass and R1's don't bother that much. Stay off the lawns in the spring and just go carefully thereafter.

However - I have found after all the time out here - loaded rear tires are the way to go. My M6040 has 1550 pounds of RimGuard in the rears plus an 1100 pound rear blade. Just about enough for maximum load capability with the grapple. I can lift just about 3200 pounds with the grapple. Anything over 2500 pounds NEVER get over 6" off the ground - just a pure matter of safety. I lift the heavy loads just far enough so the grapple does not leave drag marks.

 

[LouNY]

I can see your decision on R4 tires for puncture resistance. For my 37+ years here I've always had R1's. I've got no thorns, stobs or sharps that would puncture tires. All my "lawns" are just mowed field grass and R1's don't bother that much. Stay off the lawns in the spring and just go carefully thereafter.

However - I have found after all the time out here - loaded rear tires are the way to go. My M6040 has 1550 pounds of RimGuard in the rears plus an 1100 pound rear blade. Just about enough for maximum load capability with the grapple. I can lift just about 3200 pounds with the grapple. Anything over 2500 pounds NEVER get over 6" off the ground - just a pure matter of safety. I lift the heavy loads just far enough so the grapple does not leave drag marks.

And after all my time I've come to the conclusion that bolted on weight is better then liquid in tires.
Also I have no use for R4 tires, if R1's are not appropriate go with turfs add chains for when traction is needed.
Different ideas for different people.

 

[oosik]

Ha, ha - thank goodness for different ideas and alternate methods - right Lou.