Pulling the TRIGGER: Narrowed Down To Two Tractors

[eonblue]

Hey guys, I am pulling the trigger this week after considering this purchase for well over a year. Technically the two tractors are the same brand(which I will not put in the OP cause I dont wanna break the rules:laughing, but I am posting in this forum because my primary question is in regard to the differences in the two tractors as they will affect the type of work I intend to do.

This is a link to a previous thread which describes in depth the work and the property.

30 Acres and 20 years

Description of the two tractors A vs B:


Engine: 45 HP vs 50 HP
PTO: 34 HP vs 42 HP
Hyd. Flow: Both 16.5
Width: 63" vs 66"
Turn Radius: 8.6 ft vs 10 ft
Length: 125" vs 140"
Weight: 3500lb vs 4000lb
Lift Cap: 2700lb vs 3200lb
Tires are the same

Options on Tractor B that are not inluded on A

Fender mounted joystick
Fully Adjustable 3pt(although the dealer offered to throw in a quick attach on Tractor A no charge)
*corrected*
Draft Control
Torque Compensation
Anti-Stall

Price Difference: 24k vs 29k

I only drove Tractor A and to be honest the loader control position didn't bother me nearly as much as I anticipated but who knows after 8 hrs of seat time. Both tractors had ample room for my 6.6 frame. My question to the forum is THIS. Given the type of work I am looking to do, which of the above differences am I REALLY going to notice. 5k price difference is not insignificant to me and will pay for a couple implements that I will not immediately be able to afford with Tractor B. As for implements I will be running a medium grade box, rear blade, and rotary. EA grapple.

Thanks guys. Ive only posted a few threads here but you guys have been on point helping me for years now and I know you'll deliver on this big one. :drink:

ETA: One thing I didnt mention was that telescopic arms are also an option on the cheaper tractor, but not the crank style and pin based adjustments for the arms

 

[davek78063]

Hey guys, I am pulling the trigger this week after considering this purchase for well over a year. Technically the two tractors are the same brand(which I will not put in the OP cause I dont wanna break the rules:laughing, but I am posting in this forum because my primary question is in regard to the differences in the two tractors as they will affect the type of work I intend to do.

This is a link to a previous thread which describes in depth the work and the property.

30 Acres and 20 years

Description of the two tractors A vs B:


Engine: 45 HP vs 50 HP
PTO: 34 HP vs 42 HP
Hyd. Flow: Both 16.5
Width: 63" vs 66"
Turn Radius: 8.6 ft vs 10 ft
Length: 125" vs 140"
Weight: 3500lb vs 4000lb
Lift Cap: 2700lb vs 3200lb
Tires are the same

Options on Tractor B that are not inluded on A

Fender mounted joystick
Fully Adjustable 3pt(although the dealer offered to throw in a quick attach on Tractor A no charge)
Rear Diff Lock
Draft Control
Torque Compensation
Anti-Stall

Price Difference: 29k vs 34k

I only drove Tractor A and to be honest the loader control position didn't bother me nearly as much as I anticipated but who knows after 8 hrs of seat time. Both tractors had ample room for my 6.6 frame. My question to the forum is THIS. Given the type of work I am looking to do, which of the above differences am I REALLY going to notice. 5k price difference is not insignificant to me and will pay for a couple implements that I will not immediately be able to afford with Tractor B. As for implements I will be running a medium grade box, rear blade, and rotary. EA grapple.

Thanks guys. Ive only posted a few threads here but you guys have been on point helping me for years now and I know you'll deliver on this big one. :drink:

Personally I would like the loader control on the fender.

 

[airbiscuit]

I'm surprised Tractor A doesn't have differential lock. If I'm spending your money, I'd go with tractor B. If I'm spending my money, it might be a coin toss.

 

[eonblue]

Honestly i was surprised as well but I could not find diff lock on the website, but to double check i just opened the brochure and it does include it. Ill update the OP

Also yes this is a tough decision. I want the weight and the loader control would be nice but A is a bit more compact, nimble and 5k cheaper.

 

[searcyfarms]

im torn like you, I would want the loader control on the fender, mine has that and its hands down one of my fav things - with the trees I would want the nimbleness but I cant imagine the larger being that much of a difference. - and honestly I would not use my tractor to remove brush/trees I would put the wear and tear on a rental SS especially since you are doing this for making and grooming trails - I would definitely do that every year or two and then take on a new patch with a SS rental - then again I don't like tearing up my nice stuff and plan to have it for the rest of my life - that is why I bought a well used SS a few yrs back - I probably would go for the larger just so you have extra power/weight/leverage when you need it also - my 2 cents

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

I can't imagine why you think you can't mention the brands.... the brand-wars are hot and heavy always.

As a relative tractor newbie (but who did get a Ph.D in tractor-ology here on TBN) the main two things I notice from your specs are: Tractor A has the same hydraulic flow as B, but in a lower-HP tractor. More importantly, Tractor A is only around twice as long as it is wide (which is about the best ratio you can get on a SCUT or CUT) giving it a wider stance which is good for side-hill stability. Tractor B is more of a long, narrow tractor.

As for fender-mount vs FEL-mount control, folks tend to like what they have and are used to. Before I bought a tractor I assumed fender-mount would be better but now I like that the FEL control is *in line* with the FEL; seems to be more intuitive, like the control and the FEL are pointing the same direction if you get what I mean. Still, you get used to anything with time.

Looking forward to finding out what these *mystery tractors* are.

 

[majorwager]

Would not place too much faith in the FEL lift capacity if that is a critical work statistic. A tractor weighing 4000 lbs, (bare weight?) Lifting over 3K lbs, even at the pins, is a stretch. Without regard for extreme ballast.

The hydraulic flow is combined remotes/FEL plus steering? These specs and prices are for the kioti brand? Seem reasonable but I know little about that brand and their costs. What is the transmission type on these machines??


Folks would like to know your final decision. Telescoping lower 3 point links and pin style stabilizers are features that once experienced, you would NOT be willing to eliminate.

EDIT: neither tractor is equipped with a cab, correct ????

 

[eonblue]

I can't imagine why you think you can't mention the brands.... the brand-wars are hot and heavy always.

Looking forward to finding out what these *mystery tractors* are.

Two reasons. The first is because the two tractors are the same brand and the forum sticky says no brand specific posts and I dont want a mod-whoopin . The second is because I thought it would be interesting to see responses looking at raw stats instead of brand consideration. I will reveal the two models if people are interested.

As to the size, one of the things that struck me is, while the two units seem similarish on paper, the difference was noticeable in person. Tractor B was slightly larger/taller but something about Tractor A looked very solid and low to the ground(even though clearance is more). Like a short but very powerful/stocky running back.

Would not place too much faith in the FEL lift capacity if that is a critical work statistic. A tractor weighing 4000 lbs, (bare weight?) Lifting over 3K lbs, even at the pins, is a stretch. Without regard for extreme ballast.

The hydraulic flow is combined remotes/FEL plus steering? These specs and prices are for the kioti brand? Seem reasonable but I know little about that brand and their costs. What is the transmission type on these machines??


Folks would like to know your final decision. Telescoping lower 3 point links and pin style stabilizers are features that once experienced, you would NOT be willing to eliminate.

I have little expectation that I will be testing the limits of the FEL lift cap very often if at all. Even the lower of the two is more than enough. The weights listed are raw. Hyd. Flow is listed as max flow rate and Im pretty sure its everything combined and they are both HST. Cost-wise you made me realize that I put the price with 3 implements, 3rd function, filled tires, and piranha toothbar. Price difference on raw tractor is 24k vs 29k. Updating the OP.

 

[searcyfarms]

per your post, you have only driven the one, drive B as well, you will be wondering if you don't and despite the looks there is never a better test than being on one and driving it around and testing it out - I would never purchase anything w/out driving it around that is just me - I think you owe it to yourself to do just that and I don't mean start it up and go back and forth I mean drive it around - use the loader, raise lower, turn, drive around things, look at your view up close to things you get my drift, back it up between things, drive over some rough potholes and up/down a ditch in the parking lot, drive it on a bank, see how it feels, does your butt pucker more on one than the other?

you will learn much by driving it and operating it - loader controls, buttons, pedals, lights, seat position, ride, levers/controls, etc......

 

[MESSMAKER]

I think the smaller tractor is big enough for the jobs posted. I will admit that adjustable 3 point,joystick on fender with more power and weight are all very nice to have.

 

[ericm979]

"fully adjustable" 3pt with sliding stabilizers and extendable arms and a crank type level adjustment is a lot easier to use than the standard turnbuckle style. The quick hitches don't work for many implements. Some implements don't match the standard and some don't work right with just a hook at the top link. To me the "fully adjustable" 3pt is a distinct advantage, especially as much of the time it seems that the implement I need is not on the tractor. It's way more important than a fender mounted joystick. Is it worth $5k? Hard to say.

Like others said, test drive both. Try changing implements if the dealers allow.

 

[newbury]

Hey guys, I am pulling the trigger this week after considering this purchase for well over a year. Technically the two tractors are the same brand(which I will not put in the OP cause I dont wanna break the rules:laughing, but I am posting in this forum because my primary question is in regard to the differences in the two tractors as they will affect the type of work I intend to do.

This is a link to a previous thread which describes in depth the work and the property.

30 Acres and 20 years

Description of the two tractors A vs B:


Engine: 45 HP vs 50 HP

There's no replacement for displacement.

PTO: 34 HP vs 42 HP
Hyd. Flow: Both 16.5
Width: 63" vs 66"

Is that max width with wheels all the way out?

Turn Radius: 8.6 ft vs 10 ft
Length: 125" vs 140"
Weight: 3500lb vs 4000lb
Lift Cap: 2700lb vs 3200lb

weight and lift capacity are crirical

Tires are the same

Options on Tractor B that are not inluded on A

Fender mounted joystick

Having a short 6/2" frame I've had to exit right a few times and think a fmj would be a pain.

Fully Adjustable 3pt(although the dealer offered to throw in a quick attach on Tractor A no charge)
*corrected*
Draft Control
Torque Compensation
Anti-Stall

Price Difference: 24k vs 29k

I only drove Tractor A and to be honest the loader control position didn't bother me nearly as much as I anticipated but who knows after 8 hrs of seat time. Both tractors had ample room for my 6.6 frame. My question to the forum is THIS. Given the type of work I am looking to do, which of the above differences am I REALLY going to notice. 5k price difference is not insignificant to me and will pay for a couple implements that I will not immediately be able to afford with Tractor B. As for implements I will be running a medium grade box, rear blade, and rotary. EA grapple.

Thanks guys. Ive only posted a few threads here but you guys have been on point helping me for years now and I know you'll deliver on this big one. :drink:

ETA: One thing I didnt mention was that telescopic arms are also an option on the cheaper tractor, but not the crank style and pin based adjustments for the arms

IF you can readily afford it AND you don't have to squeeze between a 64" gap or an area where the turn around is critical it seems a no brainer - option B.

 

[ericm979]

Published widths are often with R1s, set inward. R4s are a lot wider. If you're going to run R4s like most people it's best to measure yourself or ask the dealer to do it.

 

[eonblue]

Just wanted to update. The two tractors in question were the Kioti DK47SE and the NX5010. In the end I went back and drove both tractors and ended up going with the DK. There were a few main reasons.

1. In my opinion the DK handling was quite a bit tighter than the NX and in a meaningful way. On paper you maybe can't see it but on the tractors its pretty obvious. I feel like this is going to be important in a lot of the situations I am going to be working in and, Im hoping, ends up balancing out against the lighter weight and extra horses of the NX.

2. Going in, the lack of fender mounted joystick was one of the bigger concerns of mine considering the DK, but it ended up almost being the opposite. It turns out that, being 6'6, my long arms put the joystick mounted on the FEL pretty much right in my grasp without really having to reach whereas the fender JS almost felt cramped. Additionally, Im pretty thin so I can easily fit out of the right side of the tractor and the lack of step means nothing because I can step right on to the platform The pedal -> seat distance was a bit more cramped but not a deal breaker.

3. There wasn't much feedback regarding the electronic niceties of the NX. Most opinions on those seem to be that they can be really nice but if you never had them you wont know what you're missing.

In the end with a price difference of 5k I couldn't really justify the NX but, more importantly, my gut was telling me that the DK would suit my needs better. I hope I dont regret my decision because its being delivered TODAY. Ill post pics after she's here. Ive waited a long time for this!

:dance1::dance1::dance1:

ETA: Im going with the quick hitch to start and am going to see how that suits my needs. If I end up wanting to add the telescoping lower arms that is an option in the future.

 

[majorwager]

Enjoy your tractor, you might remind those that disagree w/ your decision, that their input would have more relevance and influence, if they were willing to CONTRIBUTE to the purchase price, cash or check accepted.

 

[gladehound]

Just wanted to update. The two tractors in question were the Kioti DK47SE and the NX5010. In the end I went back and drove both tractors and ended up going with the DK. There were a few main reasons.

1. In my opinion the DK handling was quite a bit tighter than the NX and in a meaningful way. On paper you maybe can't see it but on the tractors its pretty obvious. I feel like this is going to be important in a lot of the situations I am going to be working in and, Im hoping, ends up balancing out against the lighter weight and extra horses of the NX.

2. Going in, the lack of fender mounted joystick was one of the bigger concerns of mine considering the DK, but it ended up almost being the opposite. It turns out that, being 6'6, my long arms put the joystick mounted on the FEL pretty much right in my grasp without really having to reach whereas the fender JS almost felt cramped. Additionally, Im pretty thin so I can easily fit out of the right side of the tractor and the lack of step means nothing because I can step right on to the platform The pedal -> seat distance was a bit more cramped but not a deal breaker.

3. There wasn't much feedback regarding the electronic niceties of the NX. Most opinions on those seem to be that they can be really nice but if you never had them you wont know what you're missing.

In the end with a price difference of 5k I couldn't really justify the NX but, more importantly, my gut was telling me that the DK would suit my needs better. I hope I dont regret my decision because its being delivered TODAY. Ill post pics after she's here. Ive waited a long time for this!

:dance1::dance1::dance1:

ETA: Im going with the quick hitch to start and am going to see how that suits my needs. If I end up wanting to add the telescoping lower arms that is an option in the future.

Congrats!!!

Regarding the pedal to seat position being cramped... I have a similar tractor and felt the seat was too low and too close to the pedal. I made some aluminum brackets and remounted the seat track on the brackets. The brackets move the seat up 2" and back 2". That's all the further back it could go due to the tool box. I think going up 2" did more to relieve the cramped position than going back.

 

[bruceha2000]

Just wanted to update. The two tractors in question were the Kioti DK47SE and the NX5010. In the end I went back and drove both tractors and ended up going with the DK. There were a few main reasons.

...

2. Going in, the lack of fender mounted joystick was one of the bigger concerns of mine considering the DK, but it ended up almost being the opposite. It turns out that, being 6'6, my long arms put the joystick mounted on the FEL pretty much right in my grasp without really having to reach whereas the fender JS almost felt cramped. Additionally, Im pretty thin so I can easily fit out of the right side of the tractor and the lack of step means nothing because I can step right on to the platform The pedal -> seat distance was a bit more cramped but not a deal breaker.
...

I'm glad you drove both before deciding. The last line of #2 is why I went with the tractor I did. The other was the same brand, different manufacturer, less "refined" but 3 more HP. Pretty much equal on paper and #2 was cheaper due to its MSRP and the fact it was a prior year leftover. BUT the seat to pedal distance (and I'm only 6' 2") WAS a deal breaker. Different pedal style as well and I know my right knee would lock up having to hold that close position for extended periods. And for my knees, an extended period is about 15 minutes. No real ability to keep my foot on the pedal and adjust my knee angle at all. Similar issue with the backhoe, very short seat to "back wall" distance.

The only problem I have with the fender mounted joystick is that my subconscious brain thinks I should be using it to shift. My tractor is an HST, no shifting. I haven't owned a standard transmission vehicle since 1995! :laughing: I have NO idea why that long ago memory of "stick next to right hand, must use it to shift" pops up. Granted I did drive stick from '78-'95 but it was a LONG time ago!

 

[cat fever]

Just wanted to update. The two tractors in question were the Kioti DK47SE and the NX5010. In the end I went back and drove both tractors and ended up going with the DK.


Good choice and welcome to the pack.:thumbsup:

Now we need the proof....I mean pictures.

 

[eonblue]

As requested

 

[Kubota 2350]

Technically the two tractors are the same brand(which I will not put in the OP cause I dont wanna break the rules:laughing,

Might as well not even ask if your not going to tell us what tractors your looking at.