Comparison Choices, Choices, Too Many Choices

[jeff9366]

Tasks
Removing 50 or more small stumps, approximately 5-6" diameter.
Some trenching.

Considering
JD 102X
Kubota BX

I've done a bit of reading here and see that many seem to prefer the Massey or the LS over some of the more common machines.

5" to 6" stumps are as large as a PRUDENT operator would consider digging with a subcompact tractor. Consider a $269 BXEXPANDED Backhoe Ripper for the stumps and roots when trenching. A ripper saves a lot of time in stump removal and some trenching, relative to a bucket alone. Rippers are made for Kubota and Deere Backhoes.
LINK: Backhoe Ripper.

Bear in mind that Kubota and Deere combined have 70% of USA compact tractor market share with all other brands divvying 30% residual market share.

Brands with avid supporters on T-B-N may have less than 2% market share, which is fine as long as you are aware.
This is an aficionado's site and I am one.

 

[atsah]

I had a backhoe on a SCUT and on my property I found it to be nothing more than good ballast. I could dig a water line or power line but I could have done it with a pick and shovel almost as fast.

Some people live in an area that is really easy digging, rooted trees on the surface lots of sand and others have red oak that you work forever trying to dig out with a SCUT, that information is very important before spending thousands of dollars on something that may or may not work on your property.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

I have an LS mt125 TLB and couldn't be happier with it. The backhoe mount is the heaviest (1/2" thick) subframe I have seen. On and off in about 5 minutes. I paid $16,100 for the unit, pretty much got the BH for free at that price. It was $7k less than the JD dealer for a 1025R, $6k less than the Kubota dealer for the BX. Those 2 dealers have a 'captive' consumer in this area. I'm sure other areas are somewhat cheaper. To me, cost was a major factor. I believe I got the most "bang" for my buck. I did not get the MMM mower, I use a 3 pt finish mower. I now have 150 hours on the tractor in 14 months, no problems at all and I work the heck out of it.

 

[rngrrymd]

Property
4-5 acres former farm land, mostly mowable grass with several small trees.
Mostly hills and slopes, some flat.
One estimate says steepest area is about 20% grade over about 75 linear feet.
Other areas are lesser grade.
In some areas, the ground is mostly red rock gravel under topsoil.


Tasks
Mowing primarily, including the steep hill.
Breaking some high areas to move dirt/fill to lower/sunken areas.
Moving loads of cut wood, brush and other loose materials.
Removing 50 or more small stumps, approximately 5-6" diameter.
Some trenching.
General ongoing grounds maintenance.

Needs
Garden tractor or sub-compact tractor, prefer 48" total width or less.
Foldable ROPS preferred
Belly/mid-mount mower
Loader bucket
Backhoe
Tiller


Considering

JD 102X
Kubota BX
Massey GC1710 or 20
LS MT122 or 125
TYM T234
Kioti CS2510
New Holland Workmaster 25S

It's all about the money. Less is best. Used would be OK however I'm not much of am mechanic to overhaul and maintain older machines.


I've done a bit of reading here and see that many seem to prefer the Massey or the LS over some of the more common machines.

Diggin it, let's talk about/review your priorities. Are you really all about the money or does the importance of tasks and function come into play? Sometimes the 2 don't go hand in hand depending on what you need the tractor for so it is hard for recommendations to be made other than the typical "I have this tractor it's the best go buy it." I have a few extra questions for you to consider and how you answer those questions can help you with narrowing down your options:

1. Do you want to take the backhoe off every time you need to mow or remove the mower when you put the backhoe on?
2. Are you ok with a pin-on only bucket (u can pay more to make it quick-attach) or do you want a quick-attach style bucket such as SSQA or Deere that you can swap loader implements?
3. Do you want to take the mower off whenever you have to use the 3-point hitch (using the tiller) ,-many SCUT's use the 3 point to raise and lower the mower deck
4. Do you want a drive-over mower deck or are you ok with one you have to slide in from the side (heavy & pita) <- Is your uncle's first name Arnold?
5. Are you storing the tractor in a garage with a standard height garage door? Can you remember to fold the ROPS before you enter the garage? (not being mean or sarcastic here - check for threads on guys damaging their garage door because they forgot to lower the ROPS.)
6. Are you paying cash or do you intend on financing your purchase? <- this changes everything if you are financing because interest rates change the true price of the tractor

These are some quick questions I have come up with to help narrow down your choices. Any other TBN members if you can think of questions to add for the OP please do so. Diggin, we want to help give you advice but you gave us 7 tractors to pick from which makes it kinda hard. As far as used tractors go, I don't mind helping look around quick to see if there is a deal to be had to point out to you but that requires at least a basic area of where you are at. Once again, you are not required to give us your location but that is why guys ask you for that info - so they can try to help with dealer info, prices in the area, etc. That is up to your discretion.

 

[airbiscuit]

Removing stumps is reeeeaaaaly hard on equipment, but if you want to have a go - have a ball. Here are a couple of related videos regarding your top choices:

 

[airbiscuit]

 

[Diggin It]

1. BH and FEL will be off and stored unless needed. With my hills, I don't need things that might throw off the balance and center of gravity when mowing.

2. Not familiar enough yet with BHs and FELs to know the differences or have a preference, other than simpler is better.

3. MMM will be on most of the time which might present a problem with the shed door width, but I can adjust for that. I'm not wild about a trailing mower for the same reasons noted in item 1, plus it alters the turning radius. If the MMM has to come off to use other things, so be it.

4. Drive over would be nice, but I see some issues mentioned with things hanging under the machine unprotected when it's removed. I have a lot of things around the yard, low brush, molehills, etc., so I don't want things hanging that could be damaged. I can rig up something to slide the MMM if necessary.

5. Shed. Doors on both sides and width and height can be adjusted somewhat if necessary. Door on one side measures about 60" wide and around 85" high as it is.

6. To be determined. Yes, money is a prime concern. I started out looking at older GTs that could handle implements. I saw 20 year or older units for the $5K range and older units from the 60s and 70s for $3K or so. By the time I started looking at 10-15 year old units that could handle a loader and hoe, I was up closer to $10K. We all know the bit about buying someone else's problems. I might be able to pull a larger chunk out of a retirement account if necessary. But as noted by others on their threads, there is something to be said about having an recent installment loan in your credit history which I do not have. Last I looked, my FICO score was around 800, so even with a lower income, I think I can probably get the credit since I own the property outright. I should be able to handle the ~$250/mo numbers I've been seeing.

Who knows, maybe in a couple of years after I get some things done that need the FEL and BH, I can sell it and downgrade back to a GT that will handle the mowing and not worry about the other stuff longer term.

I don't have a snow issue. On the rare times when we get over 6", I'll just stay home for a few days until it melts which almost always happens within a week..

 

[Diggin It]

Removing stumps is reeeeaaaaly hard on equipment, but if you want to have a go - have a ball. Here are a couple of related videos regarding your top choices:

I don't really have to completely remove them. What I've been doing so far is using a reciprocating saw to cut them off at ground level so I can mow over them. If I find some too difficult to dig out, I can just scrape away enough dirt to cut them off below ground level, then smooth the dirt back over them.

 

[airbiscuit]

When I made trails, I cut stumps off about 1" high with a chainsaw. Dulled a few chains, but not as bad as you would think. On the larger stumps, I cut a cross hatch pattern into them so they rot faster.

 

[nwut05]

If i am not mistaking from recent dealer visit ans internet specs. The New Holland and LS models listed are now made by Yanmar in Japan, at least the engines and drive trains are so that makes you think do you want Orange Japanese or Blue Japanese, another thought is do i pay more for New Holland or More for Kubota. I am not trying to sell anything or suggest anything other than Even LS and New Holland are now getting engines and transmissions from Japan and if you were in the 10 series John Deere price range then so do they. With that being said you are comparing paint colors and features on at least two of you models listed and for the same tractor you guess which one is more expensive. Also just a question if a 10 series John Deere is too expensive then how is a Kubota or New Holland Not?

Also as a suggestion Get the biggest best featured tractor you can afford no matter what size your property is. Because you will want bigger once you use it a little while.....especially on those stumps!!!!