TX mower
Bronze Member
DieselBound, yes Flail Mower specs are always clear as to the difference between mowing width and overall width, and clearly the drive gear/pulleys adds width on only one end (left on all I've seen) no question about that. But none I've found indicate where the PTO gearbox falls relative to either of those widths. The offset capability always seems to be measured against overall width (when you add L+R offset for max left or max right shift it's always equal to the overall mower width).
Gotta ask - do you have 'hands-on' experience with a shifting flail mower yet?
Maybe I grossly misunderstand what you are talking about for your side shifting solution, in which case I apologize .... but if the notion is 'PVC pipes' as substitute for proper hydraulic lines/control valves, I do have enough experience with hydraulics to know that the pressures involved and the danger of skin-cutting/penetrating fluid leaks keeps me away from 'alternate rigged' solutions with other than genuine hydraulic-rated components for even temporary/occasional use situations. It only 'takes once' to have a very painful and dangerous injury from a hydraulic leak or line failure, totally separate from what the implement does.
Sounds to me like you need a 'manual side shift' mower - with the slide bars but sans hydraulics, just a way to push the mower to the side and lock/block it in either position. If I were in your shoes not wanting to install proper hydraulic controls and lines I'd consider disconnecting or removing the shift cylinder completely (stored for resale or when you add proper controls) and rigging the position lock/block bits rather than 'rigging' the hydraulics.
Gotta ask - do you have 'hands-on' experience with a shifting flail mower yet?
Maybe I grossly misunderstand what you are talking about for your side shifting solution, in which case I apologize .... but if the notion is 'PVC pipes' as substitute for proper hydraulic lines/control valves, I do have enough experience with hydraulics to know that the pressures involved and the danger of skin-cutting/penetrating fluid leaks keeps me away from 'alternate rigged' solutions with other than genuine hydraulic-rated components for even temporary/occasional use situations. It only 'takes once' to have a very painful and dangerous injury from a hydraulic leak or line failure, totally separate from what the implement does.
Sounds to me like you need a 'manual side shift' mower - with the slide bars but sans hydraulics, just a way to push the mower to the side and lock/block it in either position. If I were in your shoes not wanting to install proper hydraulic controls and lines I'd consider disconnecting or removing the shift cylinder completely (stored for resale or when you add proper controls) and rigging the position lock/block bits rather than 'rigging' the hydraulics.
Thanks for sharing your experience!Most or a I've owned & seen are offset to the right or crop shredders.
I usually leave my new Peruzo somewhat or all the way offset to the right. It means the mower is covering more grass I havent driven over. Or I'm sticking it out to catch the brush I dont want scraping the hydraulic hoses & other stuff on the undercarriage of my tractor.
I shift it as needed, usually when moving & on the ground.
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