any toro groundsmaster fans on here?

[MultiMow]

Now why would you say it that way?

They didn't sell many of those decks outside of California. I lucked up. This one was purchased by a gold course and hardly used. Most were California municipal mowers. Flail mowers are often called "safety mowers", for the same reasons many California municipalities insisted upon their use. You still see one pop up occasionally in western states... but out east, Jacobsen dominated flail deck sales with their TurfCat series. This find was a rare beast.

 

[MultiMow]

Because all we have here is corn and race cars, of course! :laughing:

No... because Toro flail decks didn't sell that well in the eastern half of the U.S. .

Most of the old used flail decks east of Vegas, were Jacobsen... and I've NEVER seen a used Toro flail in this condition. Maybe a few Varismo aftermarket flail decks... but never a Toro.

 

[MultiMow]

Does anybody have an idea as to why this has happened to this machine 2x in such a short period of time?

It seems there has to be something that caused this.

Thanks

There are several possible causes:

#1- IMPROPER TIRE SIZE

The clutch is set to operate when the ground speed of the axles is out of sync. If you have the wrong size tires, it could be causing a constant engagement... which it was NOT designed for.

#2- INSUFFICIENT FLUID LEVEL

Could cause clutch failure. If the guts seized... it could've bound up inside the case, constantly torquing the shaft while out of alignment (assuming the shaft or bosses are worn).

#3- OUT OF SPEC CLUTCH CASE

If the shaft boss was machined off center, it could've caused the misaligned torque could've failed the fastener... but this is highly unlikely.

I hate to say it, but I'd be on the lookout for a whole new shaft/clutch assembly. With universals at both ends, I can't think of a way for either axle to cause the issue, aside from improper tire size.

We're you making the same maneuver both times? (example: backing up in a sharp turn, etc.)

 

[jrsavoie]

There are several possible causes:

#1- IMPROPER TIRE SIZE

The clutch is set to operate when the ground speed of the axles is out of sync. If you have the wrong size tires, it could be causing a constant engagement... which it was NOT designed for.

#2- INSUFFICIENT FLUID LEVEL

Could cause clutch failure. If the guts seized... it could've bound up inside the case, constantly torquing the shaft while out of alignment (assuming the shaft or bosses are worn).

#3- OUT OF SPEC CLUTCH CASE

If the shaft boss was machined off center, it could've caused the misaligned torque could've failed the fastener... but this is highly unlikely.

I hate to say it, but I'd be on the lookout for a whole new shaft/clutch assembly. With universals at both ends, I can't think of a way for either axle to cause the issue, aside from improper tire size.

We're you making the same maneuver both times? (example: backing up in a sharp turn, etc.)

I think the Tires are OEM. What are the OEM tire sizes?

The first time it happened, was to the previous owner - who only used the machine for snowblowing.

The 2nd time it happened I was blowing snow in the middle of the yard. I did not notice exactly when it happened. It didn't make as much noise as you would have thought. And being half deaf I miss a few things.

I checked / changed the fluid in the bi directional clutch when I re-installed the drive shaft, after I noticed it was bent, while under there changing the drive shaft, I noticed the hydraulic filter was dented. I doubt I put maybe 20 hours on it before it broke again.

First thing I have to do is get the broken end of the bolt out of the splined shaft from the rear end.

Does changing that shaft involves disassembling the rear differential?

After I get the bolt out I will be in the market for the shaft/clutch assembly.

If anybody sees a cheap parts machine, Please let me know. I could swap everything.

How exactly do I check the clutch for proper operation? It's sitting on a bench right now.

Thank you much

 

[MultiMow]

I think the Tires are OEM. What are the OEM tire sizes?

It depends. Most 4wd models list 23x8.5x12 for front axle, and 18x6.50x8 for the rear. I have been running 24 inch front tires for roughly 40hrs with no issue. It's only a 4.25% difference in ground speed ratio... a 16 inch rear tire however, would yield over 12% overrun on the rear axle... not an issue for the old one-way clutches, but could cause problems with the bidirectional... particularly in sharp turns.

 

[MultiMow]

Changing the shaft/clutch assembly shouldn't involve disassembling the rear diff... at least on mine.

 

[jrsavoie]

Changing the shaft/clutch assembly shouldn't involve disassembling the rear diff... at least on mine.

The bolt that attaches the bi directional clutch to the splined shaft coming out of the rear differential is broke off inside the shaft. I am going to try drilling with a left hand drill bit, with a magnetic block heater on the shaft.

If I can not get the remains of the bolt out, I might have to replace that part. I will have to set up a jig to drill straight.

I am planning to start with a 5/32 left hand bit and work my way up to tap size - 17/64. Hopefully the thread will come out.

Any tips or suggestions will be greatly appreciated

Where is a good place to buy Norseman drill bits, taps and dies? They do not sell direct and I never got prices back from the places they sent me.

My front tires are 23 x 850 x 12 and my back tires are 18 x 6.50 x 8

 

[jrsavoie]

I have seen some with a mechanical cable operated clutch, the shift lever is just right of the seat.




My one way clutch only engages going forward, if a front wheel looses traction. So to check the oil level, I put the jack on the frame behind the front wheel and turn the wheel, rotating the driveshaft.

On yours you would have to also raise a rear wheel, to allow the driveshaft to turn.

This is also a good way to check that the clutch is working.

On the bi directional clutch on the 1998 325D I can turn the clutch both directions with the driveshaft unhooked. Does that tell me anything about the condition of the clutch?

I still have not got the bolt that holds the bi directional clutch on, out from inside the shaft.


I am thinking about removing the cab from the 325D for summer use. Has anybody done this? How hot is the cab in the summer time?

It looks like I may be in need of a couple of parts to install if the cab is removed. Looks like I might need something around the electric control box. I am not sure what else.

The 1996 Toro Groundsmaster 223D is leaking hydrostat fluid around the right axle tube. How do I go about fixing that? Which hydrostats would be an easy swap? - It might be easier to swap out the front axle on this one than to tear it apart and fix it. If I can find the used part at a reasonable price

 

[Xfaxman]

It would tell you that it isn't working. I just now checked mine with no drive shaft. Jacked up one rear wheel, turned the clutch both ways and the wheel turned both ways. you can spin the wheel faster in the direction the cultch is turning it, without affecting the clutch.

 

[jrsavoie]

It would tell you that it isn't working. I just now checked mine with no drive shaft. Jacked up one rear wheel, turned the clutch both ways and the wheel turned both ways. you can spin the wheel faster in the direction the cultch is turning it, without affecting the clutch.

Ok I had the back wheels on the ground. I can turn the bi directional clutch, both directions without the rear differential turning. But you can tell there is a little something there. the clutch is not spinning freely at hand sped

I just called a Toro commercial service department for advice.

On the 1998 Groundsmaster 325D, with the bolt that holds the bi directional clutch to the rear differential - He said most of those issues arise from either the front or rear differential being worn or loose, allowing the whole differential to twist .My next thing to check.

He said on the axle tube for the 1996 Groundsmaster 223D, They heat the aluminum housing and slide the axle in.

He said if the axle has slid out a little and is leaking, I need a new differential housing.

I am wondering if I heated the housing up, Cleaned it up, put a generous amount of epoxy around the tube, if I could push it back together and be leak free.

Or does anybody have a line on a front differential for the 1996 223D Groundsmaster?

I also have a question about applying herbicide / Roundup / Burn Down in an area where there are a lot of little trees and shrubs about 9' away from the area that I am going to apply herbicide before planting soy beans.

I realize this is not the spot for this part of this post. A mod can feel free to edit this and repost as appropriate.

I have 2 1/2 acres to spray burn down on, then to plant soy beans.

There are Lots of trees and shrubs around.

I have the chemical and anti-drift.

Is there something like a weed whip that you can drag behind?

Any recommendations would be appreciated

I would be interested in hiring somebody On Wednesday May 23, 2018 near Clifton, Il, If anybody is close and interested in such a small job.

Any suggestions on getting this done would be appreciated.

Wondering about something like this. It says it goes on the front of the tractor. This one is 5' wide . I would like a little wider.

Do they make something to go on the back of a tractor, 4 wheeler or whatever that hooks to the sprayer pump?

String Wing, 5' Wick Chemical Applicator | Agri Supply 71934