Rounded off drain plug

[goeduck]

If you park that tractor on some friendly pallets, they will get the plug out while you aren’t looking.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Can't you just turn the tractor upside down and let the fluid drain out of the fill tube?

 

[TimberHole]

I know a lot of people use mityvacs for engine oil and transmission oil change. Could that work here to get the old fluid out?

I've used my little HF $5 hand pump to take a half quart out of my VW when they vastly overfilled it.

What are ya trying to do, kill this thread? We need to see that plug come out!!!

 

[Tractor Seabee]

What are ya trying to do, kill this thread? We need to see that plug come out!!!

Don't get in a hurry, maybe we can find some more off subject stuff to keep it going. His oil has only been in there a few hundred, what's a few more.

Ron

 

[Kando]

Oh dear, it does seem I've started something.:laughing:

 

[Deere Dude]

Duplicate

 

[Deere Dude]

Or use a larger nut that fits over/around the plug completely and just weld the inside of the nut to the plug. Then it isn't hanging down any more than the plug is now, and will allow a larger wrench.

That is a good idea.

 

[Dave M7040]

Yes, square head.

View attachment 546567

Here's the current state of the plug. That bar should be removable, bolt on each end. The loader mounts to the frame on the front under the engine and to axle on the rear, just a support bar I suppose. Johnkn, I've tried those extractors as well, although the one I tried was the one that fit in it's current state. Once I remove the bar I'll look into using the next size down, 1/2". Bolt head would normally be 9/16"

When I see in the photo with this referenced post, the amount of thread protrusion makes me think someone screwed the wrong plug in at one time.

Could you post a photo or two of the other drain plugs

A tapered thread plug into a straight thread hole will certainly tear things up and create liitle metal one way clutch dogs that prevent unscrewing.

Dave M7040

 

[airbiscuit]

If you park that tractor on some friendly pallets, they will get the plug out while you aren’t looking.

Oh Brother, not with the pallets again :confused2:

 

[Kando]

When I see in the photo with this referenced post, the amount of thread protrusion makes me think someone screwed the wrong plug in at one time.

Could you post a photo or two of the other drain plugs

A tapered thread plug into a straight thread hole will certainly tear things up and create liitle metal one way clutch dogs that prevent unscrewing.

Dave M7040

The other plugs are the same way.

 

[fried1765]

The other plugs are the same way.

Will there be a happy ending to this plug saga someday?

 

[Kando]

Perhaps, but not today. Or tomorrow. Maybe even through the next week. Truck is down and in the shop, so that's priority.

 

[Larus]

A few ideas.
1. Whenever you use an adjustable wrench, turn it over so that when you push the adjustment nut with you thumb, it is tightening as you use the wrench. Always keep pressure on that nut to ensure the jaws are not opening as you apply pressure.
2. If there is room, put the vise grips back on and gently tap with a hammer. Lefty loosey. Make sure you are not striking hard enough for the jaws to slip. Don't give up the first couple of minutes. Each tap, even if there is no visible turning, is loosening a thin layer of debris in the threads. I put one hand on the vise grip handles and apply a little pressure. With the other hand, I tap with the hammer. Just make sure the vise grips are turned so you are tapping on the back, not the belly.
3. If all else fails, drill it. You can use a small hole to put an easy out into (reverse threaded tapered screw), and if that fails, you can drill larger until the thin core of the plug releases enough pressure and contact that you can turn it out. Two things are critical. You must start the drill hole in the center of the plug. That is a tough job but critical. Second, do not advance to a drill bit so large that you drill out the female threads.

There are other techniques but are not safe to do on an engine. Take it slow and easy. One mishap can cost a lot of time and money. Best of luck.

 

[PILOON]

So..oo... What has happened with the drain plug?
Anything?

Changed over to tire rims, so it seems.

I looked at his pix and what I'd do is drill a 1/4" hole and insert a hardened rod to act like a lever.

That or since there were a decent amount of threads showing I'd clamp vice grips on the treaded portion and simply replace the damaged plug.

 

[Dftodd]

Or use a larger nut that fits over/around the plug completely and just weld the inside of the nut to the plug. Then it isn't hanging down any more than the plug is now, and will allow a larger wrench.

For that size plug, the nut that will fit over it is a 7/8. So he would need an 1 5/16 or 1 7/16 wrench to fit it. Just depends if he uses a heavy duty nut or the standard duty.

I've removed between 30 and 40 of those plugs in the past 5 years that way. You get some tater head being lazy and using an impact with 8 point socket to install them. Or the other popular method is an 18" adjustable wrench,Then procedes to hammer them in Then with the plugs being pop metal, they disintegrate when trying to use a pjpe wrench or similar method to remove the tripped out plug.

I raise he!! with a mechanic if I see them using one of those methods to install the plug. And have a hand tighten only policy in my shop.

 

[Garethplas]

I haven't been through the entire thread, so forgive me if someone has already suggested this......

Take a socket that is the next size down from the original plug head size, maybe 2 sizes if really rounded. Hammer the socket on until firm, it will go, as the metal used for these bolts is the consistency of cheese. If you can borrow an impact driver use that, otherwise an ordinary wrench.

It has worked for me several times, though I have never tried it on a drain plug....

Good luck

 

[Egon]

There are sockets made for removal of rounded nuts.

[video]https://www.google.ca/search?q=nut+removal+socket&client=safari&hl=en-ca&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjhhoO_46raAhXiTN8KHWmvDW8Q_AUIEigC&biw=1024&bih=681#imgrc=oWNnVz_TGBng_M:[/video]

 

[Garethplas]

There are sockets made for removal of rounded nuts.

[video]https://www.google.ca/search?q=nut+removal+socket&client=safari&hl=en-ca&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjhhoO_46raAhXiTN8KHWmvDW8Q_AUIEigC&biw=1024&bih=681#imgrc=oWNnVz_TGBng_M:[/video]

Brilliant!!! never seen these before, more kit!!

 

[sixdogs]

There are sockets made for removal of rounded nuts.

[video]https://www.google.ca/search?q=nut+removal+socket&client=safari&hl=en-ca&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjhhoO_46raAhXiTN8KHWmvDW8Q_AUIEigC&biw=1024&bih=681#imgrc=oWNnVz_TGBng_M:[/video]

Brilliant!!! never seen these before, more kit!!

Not sure it would help you in North Wales but Harbor Freight sells them in the states and I'll presume Princess Auto sells in Canada. Anywhere that sells tools will sell them but in varying degrees of quality. The Hansons shown are a good name but I bought mine at Harbor Freight so they are almost certainly Chinese. They won't get used very often but when you need them you better have them.

 

[newbury]

A few ideas.
1. Whenever you use an adjustable wrench, turn it over so that when you push the adjustment nut with you thumb, it is tightening as you use the wrench. Always keep pressure on that nut to ensure the jaws are not opening as you apply pressure.
2. If there is room, put the vise grips back on and gently tap with a hammer. Lefty loosey. Make sure you are not striking hard enough for the jaws to slip. Don't give up the first couple of minutes. Each tap, even if there is no visible turning, is loosening a thin layer of debris in the threads. I put one hand on the vise grip handles and apply a little pressure. With the other hand, I tap with the hammer. Just make sure the vise grips are turned so you are tapping on the back, not the belly.
3. If all else fails, drill it. You can use a small hole to put an easy out into (reverse threaded tapered screw), and if that fails, you can drill larger until the thin core of the plug releases enough pressure and contact that you can turn it out. Two things are critical. You must start the drill hole in the center of the plug. That is a tough job but critical. Second, do not advance to a drill bit so large that you drill out the female threads.

There are other techniques but are not safe to do on an engine. Take it slow and easy. One mishap can cost a lot of time and money. Best of luck.

If you go the vise grip on the threads route get a block heater or propane torch and warm the area up, then FIRST put the vise grips on like you were using a pipe wrench to TIGHTEN (righty tighty) and clamp the vice grips real tight and then give a couple of taps to TIGHTEN, then quickly reverse the vice grips, clamp down and try to loosen.

Changed over to tire rims, so it seems.

I looked at his pix and what I'd do is drill a 1/4" hole and insert a hardened rod to act like a lever.

That or since there were a decent amount of threads showing I'd clamp vice grips on the treaded portion and simply replace the damaged plug.

There are sockets made for removal of rounded nuts.

[video]https://www.google.ca/search?q=nut+removal+socket&client=safari&hl=en-ca&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjhhoO_46raAhXiTN8KHWmvDW8Q_AUIEigC&biw=1024&bih=681#imgrc=oWNnVz_TGBng_M:[/video]

Brilliant!!! never seen these before, more kit!!

That was mentioned early on.

Or use the correct tool for the job, a bolt extractor which covers the bolt head and bites in when turned counterclockwise. Get a set and have them. This will remove a bolt with a head that is completely rounded. Good luck...

Still think sucking it out with a mityvac if possible would solve the problem. Or drilling a new drain hole and fitting it with a plug.