Front Loader from a Ford Truck

[nimblemotors]

Going to build a bucket loader starting with a 1985 Ford Ranger 4wd auto with 4cyl engine.
Instead of a skidsteer, I'll just use the truck wheels to do the turning since it already turns, but I will put the loader in back over the rear wheels,
so the truck will drive backwards and be a rear-steer setup. I will strip off all the bodywork, leaving just the frame and drivetrain,
and rig up something to steer and brake facing backwards.
I will replace the rearend with a limited-slip 8.8 I have from an explorer. I will eliminate the suspension springs, and attach the frame
directly to the rearend and the front twin-beams that won't move anymore.

I was doing some math to see how big and long a lift cylinder I need, perhaps someone can check my math.

My lift capacity will be only 1,000 lbs, which is 1/3 a yard of sand, so a bucket size of 1/3 yard or 4ft wide, 1.5ft tall, and 1.5ft deep is 9cf or 1/3 yard.

I'm seeing if I can use a 2in cylinder with a 20in stroke, as one is available to me. it has a ~9,000 lb force,
so to lift 1000lbs, I can use a max 8:1 ratio on the lift arm, which would raise max 8 times 20 inches or 160 inches or 13 feet.
If I limit the height to 10ft, I can use a 6:1 ratio, which would bump up the lift capacity to (9000/6=1500lbs).
Do I have that right? lol

The loader will be a one-arm bandit, like this Volvo loader:

 

[mcfarmall]

Can't help you with the math for the cylinder, but the math for the project would be that I'd rather spend my time and money on something else. On a more positive note, I admire your creativity and would love to see pictures of the loader as you progress. A video when it's all done would be great! The first truck I bought new off the lot was an '85 ranger. Cash price was $5795.00 with 8.8% financing which was an outstanding rate at the time!

 

[LD1]

A two inch cylinder isnt even close to being big enough.

A tractor loader running a PAIR of ~2" cylinders puts you at about the capacity you are looking for.

A single 3" cylinder is about double the capacity of a single 2. And that would be a good place to start.

But I agree...sounds like a large waste of time and money. Unless you live in some remote part of the world that lacks equipment (no clue as you dont have your profile filled out)......then I would look for a used skidloader or used tractor/loader. Gonna be money ahead in the long run.

 

[4570Man]

This think sounds like the maneuverability of a battle ship and the firepower of a speed boat. This sounds like a step better than some homemade builds, but you’re still good to have a substandard machine after all that work and money. From an engineering standpoint putting the loader off the back is the right way. It would be a lot of work though. I’d just put it in front and add some ballast in the back.

 

[GLyford]

How short can you make the wheelbase? If the rear axle will be mounted solid, could you basically turn the driveshaft into a CV joint by cutting out the middle attaching the two ujoints together? (You'd want some sort of coupler in there to account for engine movement and alignment issues)
I am assuming you aren't going to want to be driving backwards to use this thing. What sort of thoughts do you have for setting up the operators position, steering, etc.?

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Going to build a bucket loader starting with a 1985 Ford Ranger 4wd auto with 4cyl engine.
Instead of a skidsteer, I'll just use the truck wheels to do the turning since it already turns, but I will put the loader in back over the rear wheels,
so the truck will drive backwards and be a rear-steer setup. I will strip off all the bodywork, leaving just the frame and drivetrain,
and rig up something to steer and brake facing backwards.
I will replace the rearend with a limited-slip 8.8 I have from an explorer. I will eliminate the suspension springs, and attach the frame
directly to the rearend and the front twin-beams that won't move anymore.

I was doing some math to see how big and long a lift cylinder I need, perhaps someone can check my math.

My lift capacity will be only 1,000 lbs, which is 1/3 a yard of sand, so a bucket size of 1/3 yard or 4ft wide, 1.5ft tall, and 1.5ft deep is 9cf or 1/3 yard.

I'm seeing if I can use a 2in cylinder with a 20in stroke, as one is available to me. it has a ~9,000 lb force,
so to lift 1000lbs, I can use a max 8:1 ratio on the lift arm, which would raise max 8 times 20 inches or 160 inches or 13 feet.
If I limit the height to 10ft, I can use a 6:1 ratio, which would bump up the lift capacity to (9000/6=1500lbs).
Do I have that right? lol

The loader will be a one-arm bandit, like this Volvo loader:
View attachment 546906

Sounds like a great teaching project to learn many skills.

Ford has already developed the one arm 1/3 yard loader you are talking about. We just gave $300 for our 711 with hydraulic curl.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/389754-does-ford-19-209-711-a.html

Look at mounting the hip joint bracket to the outside of the frame on the front or back. By mounting it on the front you could use the bed to hold weight to make it more stable and not have to mess with moving the steering system currently on the truck.

Keep us updated as you move forward.

 

[GLyford]

And if you have the bucket on the steering end, you don't have to move all the operator controls...

 

[nimblemotors]

A two inch cylinder isnt even close to being big enough.

A tractor loader running a PAIR of ~2" cylinders puts you at about the capacity you are looking for.

A single 3" cylinder is about double the capacity of a single 2. And that would be a good place to start.

So the math is wrong? What part of it is not right? Does one want a 2x 'safety margin'?

 

[bigdeano]

Don't forget to include the weight of the loader and bucket in your weight calculations. There may not be much left for payload.

 

[nimblemotors]

Don't forget to include the weight of the loader and bucket in your weight calculations. There may not be much left for payload.

ah yes that is missing from the math. the other thing I thought about is being able to lift up the front wheels with the loader, and that is about half the weight of the tractor, which would be about 2500 lbs, more than the bucket load.
So looks like the 2in would work to rotate the bucket but not for the lift. thanks!

 

[flingwing1969]

Sounds like a great teaching project to learn many skills.

Ford has already developed the one arm 1/3 yard loader you are talking about. We just gave $300 for our 711 with hydraulic curl.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/389754-does-ford-19-209-711-a.html

Look at mounting the hip joint bracket to the outside of the frame on the front or back. By mounting it on the front you could use the bed to hold weight to make it more stable and not have to mess with moving the steering system currently on the truck.

Keep us updated as you move forward.

What an interesting post. Thanks for the link, I certainly enjoyed reading about it.

 

[Doofy]

I've often had pipe dreams of doing the same thing but on a Intl Scout frame. I have a complete John Deere 40 loader that could be mounted to just about anything. Alas, I woke up and bought a new tractor. I decided that some projects are just not worth the effort.

 

[bcp]

Ideas:

jeep loader - Google Search



Bruce

 

[Doofy]

Ideas:

jeep loader - Google Search

View attachment 546955

Bruce

Some people will do anything to avoid using a shovel. Me included.

 

[LD1]

Not only the unladen weight of the loader....but calculations for cylinder on an angle

 

[texasranger556]

You'll also want to work out your lifting geometry over the full range of motion and bias it to have more force down low than up high since that is where you'll get the most benefit IMO.

What happened to the 530 ck in your profile? That would dig circles around what you are proposing to build.

 

[Xfaxman]

Going to build a bucket loader starting with a 1985 Ford Ranger 4wd auto with 4cyl engine.
Instead of a skidsteer, I'll just use the truck wheels to do the turning since it already turns, but I will put the loader in back over the rear wheels,
so the truck will drive backwards and be a rear-steer setup. I will strip off all the bodywork, leaving just the frame and drivetrain,
and rig up something to steer and brake facing backwards.
I will replace the rearend with a limited-slip 8.8 I have from an explorer. I will eliminate the suspension springs, and attach the frame
directly to the rearend and the front twin-beams that won't move anymore.

----------------------------

I think eliminating the front suspension is not a good idea. There will be times on uneven ground that there will only be three wheels on the ground.

Our Toolcat has independent suspension front and rear, with large rubber low limit stops:

With the 6' one cubic yard bucket,

It sets down on the rubber stop.

How will get your forward speeds or just drive in reverse?
.
.

 

[flingwing1969]

Some people will do anything to avoid using a shovel. Me included.

I've never minded a shovel - I just was never able to find the ignition switch.

 

[ovrszd]

I agree with X, you need to leave the twin I beam alone so you can keep all four wheels on the ground, most of the time.

 

[Doofy]

I've never minded a shovel - I just was never able to find the ignition switch.

Same here and it also made my arms sore from leaning on it.