New L47: configuration questions

[Nemmy]

Hi all, medium time lurker, first time poster/potential Kubota owner here. I have some questions about a new L47 configuration below. I went to a local dealer and was disappointed at the knowledge of the salesperson and his listening skills, so I decided to ask my specifics here and try another dealer.

Intro: I'm finally at the point of upgrading from garden and yard tractors to a real sized one. I'm homing in on an L47 for three reasons: I want high lift capacity for logs/sawmilling, I have light excavator work (ditches, electrical, stumps), and want general PTO support for post holes & brush mowing a couple of acres of non-turf vegetation/trails. I imagine I would still use my yard tractor for the flat grass areas near the house that would otherwise require a finish mower. In addition I generally like to overbuy once so my tools last a very long time before I think about upgrading or adding to them. In an ideal world I would get a tracked excavator, skidsteer and pto mower, but I'm not seeing being able to spend that kind of money to own all three. For the once a year larger projects I can just rent an excavator locally but for normal monthly items I believe the L47 backhoe will be more than enough.

Questions related to getting a L47:
1. What features are best to get from the factory/dealer when buying up front instead of trying to add them afterwards? The 0% for 5-7 years makes this simpler to purchase, so I'd like to get whatever I will need all at once if possible. Specifically, what do I get when I move from the TLB to a TLB-LB and how does that relate to the single lever valve quick coupler for the loader and the remote valve kit for the rear attachments?
2. I'm looking at the qc heavy duty round back bucket based on some reading I've done here. Do I want the bolt on cutting edge? in what scenario does that really help?
3. Attachments from Kubota/LandPride: any to stay away from or to definitely get? I know there are a ton of third party and I've had mixed success with some in the past. How do these compare to what I can get at a place like everything attachments or similar. One of the benefits is to roll this into the initial financing and pay it off over the long term. I'm currently thinking of one of the front grapples, a post hole digger w/9 and an 18+ (posts & trees), pallet forks and a brush mower to begin with.
4. Backhoe: rubber pads and qc thumb, anything else? what's a cylinder guard?
5. Backhoe buckets: 12" or 16" for trench digging (electrical/water/buried conduit) and something bigger. The tilting grading bucket looks really cool but I don't see a real use for it on my property especially for the extra ~$4k.
6. Dealer installed options: seems like some of those are either packaged with the build or not. Which do I want to ask for specifically? (3 pt linkage kit, 3 pt linkage storage, draw bar kit, draw bar clevis, top and tilt kit)
7. Hydraulic 2-lever quick coupler: do people really get these? seems a bit (a lot?) wasteful given the likelyhood of changing the front bucket/grapple more than a couple of times in a day and the likelihood of yet another hydraulic breaking or leaking over time. Also does this take the third function away in the front then?
8. Separate but interesting: recommendation for an aftermarket cab if I'm interested in those?

Thanks for any help and advice.

 

[deathtoblackberries]

My dealer sales guy is like a walking encyclopedia of Kubota, I do my own research and have never stumped him.

 

[Fallon]

Look at a hydraulic PHD. A PTO PHD is $600-800 & a pain to put on. Additionally it doesn't have any downpressure so might not dig in a lot of situations.

A hydraulic PHD will be pushing $2k or so depending on mounting options. You can reverse hydraulics if they jam in the hole. My 40hp L4060 with 10ish gpm has noticably less power & speed with my hydraulic PHD than my old 32hp L3200 had with a PTO PHD. The flexibility & usability, not to mention ease of hook up makes it worth it. The bigger hydraulics on a TBL might offset that letting you get a PHD rated for more flow. Hydraulics mean you can hook the PHD up to your hoe or the loader giving you lots of flexibility.

Augers for hydraulic PHDs (2" hex or almost 3" round) are 30-40% more expensive than PTO augers (2" round), but are that much heavier & beefier at least.

I like having the right toys... Er tools for a job as well. Despite the hydraulics transmitting less power than PTO, the quality of life in a hydraulic PHD is better.

You may consider getting a 3rd function on the loader and how. It would let you run hydraulic angle on a snow plow, grapple, or hydraulic PHD on the loader. Generally the main use would be for a thumb on the hoe, but it would run a PHD too.

 

[Fallon]

7. Hydraulic 2-lever quick coupler: do people really get these? seems a bit (a lot?) wasteful given the likelyhood of changing the front bucket/grapple more than a couple of times in a day and the likelihood of yet another hydraulic breaking or leaking over time. Also does this take the third function away in the front then?

Speaking as a guy who built a power SSQA with a linear actuator for his old L3200 & is planning on a hydraulic SSQA for his new L4060. Don't bother. OEM price is $1,200-1,500 or so & you may or may not loose your 3rd function. My build will use a manual diverter on the OEM 3rd function & cost me $300ish in parts. Probably a couple partial weekends to build. You already have to get off the machine to hook up or unhook hoses, so a manual diverter up on the loader will work just fine.

Even at my cost it still isn't worth it as a practical matter. I'm lazy, like my toys & cool projects so that ballances out my equation.

 

[Peter 315]

This is what i bought . I also got the 4 in 1 bucket

 

[mikester]

Questions related to getting a L47:
1. What features are best to get from the factory/dealer when buying up front instead of trying to add them afterwards? The 0% for 5-7 years makes this simpler to purchase, so I'd like to get whatever I will need all at once if possible. Specifically, what do I get when I move from the TLB to a TLB-LB and how does that relate to the single lever valve quick coupler for the loader and the remote valve kit for the rear attachments?
2. I'm looking at the qc heavy duty round back bucket based on some reading I've done here. Do I want the bolt on cutting edge? in what scenario does that really help?
3. Attachments from Kubota/LandPride: any to stay away from or to definitely get? I know there are a ton of third party and I've had mixed success with some in the past. How do these compare to what I can get at a place like everything attachments or similar. One of the benefits is to roll this into the initial financing and pay it off over the long term. I'm currently thinking of one of the front grapples, a post hole digger w/9 and an 18+ (posts & trees), pallet forks and a brush mower to begin with.
4. Backhoe: rubber pads and qc thumb, anything else? what's a cylinder guard?
5. Backhoe buckets: 12" or 16" for trench digging (electrical/water/buried conduit) and something bigger. The tilting grading bucket looks really cool but I don't see a real use for it on my property especially for the extra ~$4k.
6. Dealer installed options: seems like some of those are either packaged with the build or not. Which do I want to ask for specifically? (3 pt linkage kit, 3 pt linkage storage, draw bar kit, draw bar clevis, top and tilt kit)
7. Hydraulic 2-lever quick coupler: do people really get these? seems a bit (a lot?) wasteful given the likelyhood of changing the front bucket/grapple more than a couple of times in a day and the likelihood of yet another hydraulic breaking or leaking over time. Also does this take the third function away in the front then?
8. Separate but interesting: recommendation for an aftermarket cab if I'm interested in those?

Thanks for any help and advice.

1. Get everything you want/need up front. It's easier to get forgiveness than permission...

2. Bolt on cutting edge is nice especially if you do a lot of loading from asphalt or concrete. Low priority in my uses.

3. Never had problems with land pride attachments. I have not had the best of luck with Woods brand.

4. Get the cylinder guard...its a metal cover to protect the jack cylinders. Rubber pads? Do you do a lot of digging on asphalt?

5. You won't be sorry with the bigger trenching bucket...too small is bad unless you do a lot of small pipe work.

6. Definitely you need the 3PH kit if you plan on using the PTO. I don't use my 3PH on board storage it's a PITA. I've never used the OEM draw bar, only a 3PH draw bar with pintle because I can hook up, lift and move trailers without getting off the machine. Top-and-tilt is next on my radar.

7. I would have got the hydraulic quick coupler if it was available for me at the time. I still wish I had one as constantly climbing on/off the machine is getting hard on my knees. You still have to climb off the machine if the attachment uses hydraulics.

8. I'm very happy with my Laurin cab. I did a post here a while ago on it.

 

[Nemmy]

Look at a hydraulic PHD. A PTO PHD is $600-800 & a pain to put on. Additionally it doesn't have any downpressure so might not dig in a lot of situations.
...
My 40hp L4060 with 10ish gpm has noticably less power & speed with my hydraulic PHD than my old 32hp L3200 had with a PTO PHD. The flexibility & usability, not to mention ease of hook up makes it worth it. The bigger hydraulics on a TBL might offset that letting you get a PHD rated for more flow. Hydraulics mean you can hook the PHD up to your hoe or the loader giving you lots of flexibility.

Interesting idea and I went off to research. Here’s what I found out:
L47TLB has an 11.5gpm flow up front and that may be shared with the loader so I don’t really think that helps me with a hydraulic phd nor will it really give me the ability to run at speed and put downward pressure.
In addition I found many folks online who are saying that if you need to push down on the auger with any kind of serious force than something is wrong with the bit.
Thanks

 

[Fallon]

Interesting idea and I went off to research. Here’s what I found out:
L47TLB has an 11.5gpm flow up front and that may be shared with the loader so I don’t really think that helps me with a hydraulic phd nor will it really give me the ability to run at speed and put downward pressure.
In addition I found many folks online who are saying that if you need to push down on the auger with any kind of serious force than something is wrong with the bit.
Thanks

My L4060 has 9-10gpm or so, pretty much the same as you. 2500psi * 10gpm = 14.5hp. Ya, flow is anemic compared to a skid steer, or the 25pto HP in my old L3200. But I can keep up or outdo the holes per hour I could do with the L3200. The usability & visibility of the reversable hydraulics up front on the loader beats killing your neck looking over you shoulder & working about getting the auger stuck & having to dig it out.

I rebuilt my old 3pt PHD to be quick hitch compatible on my old L32pp due to the pain in mounting & to get some hydraulic downpressure. I also added 200lbs of ballast over the gearbox for more downpressure.

To some degree what you hear has some validity. You need sharp teeth appropriate to your soil conditions. But in many soil conditions like the clay I have, good unworn shart teeth aren't enough. You need downpressure to drive that auger into the ground to get a bite.

 

[Nemmy]

My L4060 has 9-10gpm or so, pretty much the same as you. 2500psi * 10gpm = 14.5hp. Ya, flow is anemic compared to a skid steer, or the 25pto HP in my old L3200. But I can keep up or outdo the holes per hour I could do with the L3200. The usability & visibility of the reversable hydraulics up front on the loader beats killing your neck looking over you shoulder & working about getting the auger stuck & having to dig it out.

I rebuilt my old 3pt PHD to be quick hitch compatible on my old L32pp due to the pain in mounting & to get some hydraulic downpressure. I also added 200lbs of ballast over the gearbox for more downpressure.

To some degree what you hear has some validity. You need sharp teeth appropriate to your soil conditions. But in many soil conditions like the clay I have, good unworn shart teeth aren't enough. You need downpressure to drive that auger into the ground to get a bite.

View attachment 539893View attachment 539894View attachment 539895View attachment 539896

Which hydraulic PHD is that and what are those tractor wheel mats in the garage?

 

[Nemmy]

1. Get everything you want/need up front. It's easier to get forgiveness than permission...

2. Bolt on cutting edge is nice especially if you do a lot of loading from asphalt or concrete. Low priority in my uses.

6. Definitely you need the 3PH kit if you plan on using the PTO. I don't use my 3PH on board storage it's a PITA. I've never used the OEM draw bar, only a 3PH draw bar with pintle because I can hook up, lift and move trailers without getting off the machine. Top-and-tilt is next on my radar.

7. I would have got the hydraulic quick coupler if it was available for me at the time. I still wish I had one as constantly climbing on/off the machine is getting hard on my knees. You still have to climb off the machine if the attachment uses hydraulics.

8. I'm very happy with my Laurin cab. I did a post here a while ago on it.

2. Does the bolt on cutting edge protect the bucket in the case of asphalt? I can see getting material dumped on my driveway/etc.

6. Top and tilt details? which 3ph draw bar do you recommend?

7. How does the hydraulic quick coupler work with hydraulic attachments? not only do I get down anyways, but wouldn't I need to unplug/replug in hoses?

8. Very cool, read your blog post. Seems like a lot of work but a really cool end result.

 

[mike69440]

Hi all, medium time lurker, first time poster/potential Kubota owner here. I have some questions about a new L47 configuration below. I went to a local dealer and was disappointed at the knowledge of the salesperson and his listening skills, so I decided to ask my specifics here and try another dealer.

Intro: I'm finally at the point of upgrading from garden and yard tractors to a real sized one. I'm homing in on an L47 for three reasons: I want high lift capacity for logs/sawmilling, I have light excavator work (ditches, electrical, stumps), and want general PTO support for post holes & brush mowing a couple of acres of non-turf vegetation/trails. I imagine I would still use my yard tractor for the flat grass areas near the house that would otherwise require a finish mower. In addition I generally like to overbuy once so my tools last a very long time before I think about upgrading or adding to them. In an ideal world I would get a tracked excavator, skidsteer and pto mower, but I'm not seeing being able to spend that kind of money to own all three. For the once a year larger projects I can just rent an excavator locally but for normal monthly items I believe the L47 backhoe will be more than enough.

Questions related to getting a L47:
1. What features are best to get from the factory/dealer when buying up front instead of trying to add them afterwards? The 0% for 5-7 years makes this simpler to purchase, so I'd like to get whatever I will need all at once if possible. Specifically, what do I get when I move from the TLB to a TLB-LB and how does that relate to the single lever valve quick coupler for the loader and the remote valve kit for the rear attachments?
2. I'm looking at the qc heavy duty round back bucket based on some reading I've done here. Do I want the bolt on cutting edge? in what scenario does that really help?
3. Attachments from Kubota/LandPride: any to stay away from or to definitely get? I know there are a ton of third party and I've had mixed success with some in the past. How do these compare to what I can get at a place like everything attachments or similar. One of the benefits is to roll this into the initial financing and pay it off over the long term. I'm currently thinking of one of the front grapples, a post hole digger w/9 and an 18+ (posts & trees), pallet forks and a brush mower to begin with.
4. Backhoe: rubber pads and qc thumb, anything else? what's a cylinder guard?
5. Backhoe buckets: 12" or 16" for trench digging (electrical/water/buried conduit) and something bigger. The tilting grading bucket looks really cool but I don't see a real use for it on my property especially for the extra ~$4k.
6. Dealer installed options: seems like some of those are either packaged with the build or not. Which do I want to ask for specifically? (3 pt linkage kit, 3 pt linkage storage, draw bar kit, draw bar clevis, top and tilt kit)
7. Hydraulic 2-lever quick coupler: do people really get these? seems a bit (a lot?) wasteful given the likelyhood of changing the front bucket/grapple more than a couple of times in a day and the likelihood of yet another hydraulic breaking or leaking over time. Also does this take the third function away in the front then?
8. Separate but interesting: recommendation for an aftermarket cab if I'm interested in those?

Thanks for any help and advice.

1. Front 3rd Function and as many rear remotes as you think you need.
2. Round bucket is not heavy enough. Weld some more metal to it. add extra side plates to BH bucket and Loader Add a 1/2 X 1" strip to top of round bucket and a scraper at the rear of the bottom.
I have two bolt on edges.
3. Land pride is ok. I'd get a extra heavy duty heavy Box Blade.
4. Hydraulic Thumb
5. Soft ground you can use bigger buckets. I live in NH so I need small bucket
6. Hou much PTO & 3 Point do you expect? I never had the hoe off.
7. Nice to have, certainly not a necessity.
8. Lights, Lots of lights.
I have a soft Cab, no heat, but still is ok in winter. off it comes in the spring.
Tire Chains Studs and 1.5" wheel spacer.
Tow Loops and grab hooks

Load the Rear Tires! Do it.
Attached Photos are some of the stuff you and do and tools you can add.

 

[Fallon]

Which hydraulic PHD is that and what are those tractor wheel mats in the garage?

Danhuser. Don't remember the model, but it's the 2" hex drive & GPM range for my (your) machine. Easy to figure out if you browse through the models.

I got some chunks of conveyer belt a while back. My intent was to have it chewed instead of the concrete when I had chains on. Haven't needed to put the chains on in the past 2 years though. I actually rolled them up & put them away a few months ago as they got in the way sweeping the dirt out & generally being a tripping hazzard.

 

[Nemmy]

1. Front 3rd Function and as many rear remotes as you think you need.
6. Hou much PTO & 3 Point do you expect? I never had the hoe off.
8. I have a soft Cab, no heat, but still is ok in winter. off it comes in the spring.

Thanks for the photos and answers. Which grapple is that in the max rock pic?
Also:
1. Front third is straight forward. What do you mean by as many rear remotes? I thought I could get the backhoe plus a third, are there more?
6. At least a brush mower which I don稚 have yet. I was thinking about a post hole digger but can go front side on that. If just the brush hog the. I could get into some seasonal on/off swapping with the backhoe to reduce swaps.
8. Which soft can and how easy is it to swap?

 

[Fallon]

Thanks for the photos and answers. Which grapple is that in the max rock pic?
Also:
1. Front third is straight forward. What do you mean by as many rear remotes? I thought I could get the backhoe plus a third, are there more?
6. At least a brush mower which I don稚 have yet. I was thinking about a post hole digger but can go front side on that. If just the brush hog the. I could get into some seasonal on/off swapping with the backhoe to reduce swaps.
8. Which soft can and how easy is it to swap?

Go for a 3rd function on the loader at least. I got 3 on the rear for mine in addition to the loader 3rd function. 2 for TnT, a 3rd for whatever. Whatever so far has been angle on a back blade & blade depth for a trencher. TnT tends to be a bit expensive when you add in the hydraulics. Invaluable when grading, but useful other times. May not be worth it unless you do a lot of 3pt work, especially grading.

Personally this is the 2nd quick attach loader (not to be confused with SSQA to attach impliments to the loader) I've had, neither of which I never removed (pretty sure they are more or less in removable on the TBLs). I'm lazy I'll admit it, but removing a hoe is a bit harder & likely something you'll avoid. Hence me recommending hydraulic & SSQA impliments over PTO. But you won't run any kind of mower on that machine without anything but PTO.

 

[mikester]

2. Does the bolt on cutting edge protect the bucket in the case of asphalt? I can see getting material dumped on my driveway/etc.

6. Top and tilt details? which 3ph draw bar do you recommend?

7. How does the hydraulic quick coupler work with hydraulic attachments? not only do I get down anyways, but wouldn't I need to unplug/replug in hoses?

8. Very cool, read your blog post. Seems like a lot of work but a really cool end result.

2. Yes the bolt on edge will protect your bucket on asphalt.

6. I don't have the Top-and-tilt yet - I'm looking at getting the top link when it goes on sale at Princess Auto.
3 in. Bore x 8 in. Stroke Top Link Cylinder | Princess Auto

I use a customized cat 1 draw bar I modified by adding a class 4 hitch receiver and a connection to the top link (picture an upside-down T). I use a combo pintle hook-ball hitch in the receiver. I use this mainly for moving trailers around the yard not HD towing.

7. I have flat faced couplers on my loader so I have to get off the tractor if I need to use an attachment with hydraulics like my forks, tree spade or root rake. The hydraulic QA is more of a nice to have than need to have. IMHO not having QA on the loader is like buying a tractor without a 3PH.

8. Thanks! I wish Kubota put cabs on by default considering the cost of these machines.

One last thing - I recommend getting the OEM light kit for front and rear. Makes adding LED lights a breeze.

 

[Nemmy]

7. I have flat faced couplers on my loader so I have to get off the tractor if I need to use an attachment with hydraulics like my forks, tree spade or root rake. The hydraulic QA is more of a nice to have than need to have. IMHO not having QA on the loader is like buying a tractor without a 3PH.

One last thing - I recommend getting the OEM light kit for front and rear. Makes adding LED lights a breeze.

A few items:
- Which grapple is that in the max rock pic?

- OEM Lights: I think it comes with 2 front and 2 rear and I can buy more I guess. Seems like the base four points give me enough to replace some/all with multi-direction LED banks or similar.

- Regarding my question on the hydraulic quick attach, here's my understanding: the L47 FEL has a quick attach which is SSQA style spring loaded levers. I'm also getting a third hydraulic valve on the FEL for interesting attachments. Here are the questions:

a. anyone know for a fact if that third valve shares the hydraulic flow (of 11.5gpm) of the FEL? so running a post hole digger and moving the loader up/down shares the same flow for instance. I ask because the backhoe at the rear explicitly calls out independent pumps to swing and curl/boom/dipper movement.

b. there's an option called Hydraulic Quick Attach which says it's two button to actuate the SSQA style levers for around $1.5k additional. Looking at the part diagrams, that means that those levers have to connect to some hydraulic which I assume would be the 3rd function valve on the FEL. That's cool if I'm swapping buckets or to/from manual forks, but if I go to a PHD or Sweeper or other hydraulic attachment, not only do I get off the tractor to connect, I assume I lose the hydraulic quick connect as I would move that 3rd function off the FEL to the attachment instead of the hydraulic quick attach. Correct? This was my initial question and yes, it seems a super ridiculous scenario which I should pay more money for and just stick with the 3rd function and manual quick attach.

 

[Fallon]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/321704-linear-actuator-power-ssqa.html is my linear actuator power SSQA build. Fundamentally hydraulics do the same thing in the same spot (handles might get changed, don't remember). You'd have to confirm it with the dealer but I'm relatively sure it's separate valving & plumbing from the 3rd function.

Personally I think $1500 for it is way to expensive, you can buy a good impliment or 2 for that. But then again I'm building my 2nd power SSQA myself. I'm looking at $300 for mine though.

 

[mike69440]

Thanks for the photos and answers. Which grapple is that in the max rock pic?
Also:
1. Front third is straight forward. What do you mean by as many rear remotes? I thought I could get the backhoe plus a third, are there more?
6. At least a brush mower which I don稚 have yet. I was thinking about a post hole digger but can go front side on that. If just the brush hog the. I could get into some seasonal on/off swapping with the backhoe to reduce swaps.
8. Which soft can and how easy is it to swap?

Borgford grapple.

I'd go Wicked, their HD one or if you want to get a ok grapple at a great price, Check out Fea Bay! Really my boss got a nice one.
1. Not sure, on rear remotes. I don't have any. I though you could get a pair? Ask dealer or Kubota?
6. PTO & 3PT is sure nice to have, especial when its on my smaller tractor, a Max28, or one of my neighbors! BH is not that hard to remove, I am just lucky & lazy.
8. Doors with my soft cab make entry difficult. Really difficult if your old and stiff and got on bulky coat. Other than that it is about an hour to install 1/2 to remove or less
Decent quality, but kind of expensive.
Tractor Cab Enclosure for Kubota L45 TLB - Black
Lights Amazon.com: Nilight Led Light Bar 2PCS 36w 6.5Inch Flood Led Off Road Lights Super Bright Driving Fog Light Boat Lights Driving Lights Led Work Light SUV Jeep Lamp,2 Years Warranty: Automotive

 

[RichM752]

Sent you a PM.

 

[mopardude318]

If the hydraulic quick attach option was available for my M7060, I absolutely would have gotten it, for sure, 100%, no doubt in my mind. I swap implements a few times a day, from my forks to a bucket mostly. If I have to use my hydraulic post hole digger, or my grapple, all I would have to do is plug in the hydraulics. So I'm looking forward to Fallon's hydraulic coupler build.

They offer that option on the Grand L Kubotas, but not on the Deluxe utilities...strange..