B2650 Alternator Output for LED Lights?

[Dan33Klein]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...07-b2650-question-about-charging-after-4.html

Here is a thread regarding the B7324 40 amp kit on a 2650.
This is probably the route I will take.

 

[rkidd]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...07-b2650-question-about-charging-after-4.html

Here is a thread regarding the B7324 40 amp kit on a 2650.
This is probably the route I will take.

The people I have talked to that went that route have been very happy with it. As I said, I was originally going to go that route, but when I installed my LED lights and was still under the amp rating, I thought I would try the dynamo, and it has been fine the last couple years, and hundreds of hrs of use.

 

[Dan33Klein]

Just left the dealer from looking at new tractor!

List price for the alternator kit is 199$ gonna get one ordered. And work it in on the tractor

 

[oldballs]

The people I have talked to that went that route have been very happy with it. As I said, I was originally going to go that route, but when I installed my LED lights and was still under the amp rating, I thought I would try the dynamo, and it has been fine the last couple years, and hundreds of hrs of use.

I guess it depends on how many amps one needs. My previous Kubota's with only a dynamo and two 55 watt halogen lights worked fine for `10 years without a battery failure. But I did use a Battery Minder in between uses. Just saying that in defense of Kubota's installations. What rational they have used to equip dyno vs alt is beyond me however. With my selection of LED lighting on this new B2650 I'll probably stay with the dynamo. Fortunately the B2650 has more room to install an alternator versus my previous models....especially the BX.

 

[Dan33Klein]

I assume the battery light will come on if you draw enough to cause it to not charge. At least my
John Deere did. But maybe the Kubota’s don’t since others have said they checked it with a meter and it was only at 12 volts.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Dan, I swapped out the 23 watt/ 2 amp 1156 bulbs used in the headlight, flasher and side marker lights with Amazon LED versions that consume 0.17 amp each. So that is six bulbs, 1.9 amp each, so I removed 11.4 amps of bulbs and put in 1.02 amps of LED bulbs. Let's say that I made back 10 amps.

Now I am installing 6 x 18 watt NiLight LED cubes, 1.5 amps each, or 9 amps total. I'm actually ahead of the game by 1 amp compared to stock.

There is a 10 amp fuse circuit at the rear right side, you'll see the labeled tag sticking out of the wire bundle there, you'll peel the tape off to free the male and female terminals and run them through a toggle switch. I'm mounting the switch on my right side plastic fender cover, right beside the little cell phone pocket.

So I'll be able to hit that switch and pass the 12 volts up to the 6 cubes that will be creating a 360° halo of light around the machine.

Oh, and if you want to order some stickers, this part number shown in the photo is for the hood of the B2650, there are 3 versions available, each with very different price. This sticker happens to be a dead ringer for what I have on my machine and they are under $3 each, so I ordered a dozen! My implements that have been repainted Kubota orange will be getting these, also I'm putting one in the back window of my truck. For around $2.75 each, heck yes.... I'll take a dozen!

 

[Dan33Klein]

Larry, looks like your keeping busy! I will have to order me some stickers.
I will replace my bulbs with led also. If I understand correctly there all 1156’s?

 

[Rock Crawler]

The red tail lights are not. They are smaller globes over what looks identical to an 1156 base, but the 1156 LED will not light up in the socket. But the other 6, headlight, round flashers, and yellow side markers are all 1156. There is no marking on those smaller bulbs in the red tail light housing, do I'll have to get time to Google around looking for an LED solution to those. If you beat me to it, please tell me.

I'm attaching a close up the EFoxCity 0.17 amp LED bulbs I'm using.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Oh... And check it out! The stickers are total kick butt! Grab that part number from the package and tell them to order you a half dozen, should be around $14 for a half dozen.

 

[Dan33Klein]

Larry,
Let us know if you come up with a comparable bulb. If not when mine comes in I should be able to figure it out with a book I have. The bx ones were just 194s

 

[Rock Crawler]

Definitely not a 194, this has a steel base like an 1156, but the globe is half the size as best. I'll attach a photo of one of the removed 1156 bulbs beside this red tail light bulb. Looking at the base, I expected it to light up the LED, but for whatever reason the LED will not light. I even turned the LED 180 degrees in the socket thinking that maybe it was polarity sensitive. Nope. Will not light in that socket.

 

[Dan33Klein]

Larry,
I read that the polarity is switched in the rear taillight housing. Kubota has the negative as the center pin and positive and the base. Members have switched the wires around going to the housing and got the leds to work.

 

[Rock Crawler]

I didn't pin it out, but visually... It's got black to the center and white to the outer ring.

 

[Dan33Klein]

Do you have a test light to see which ones positive?

 

[Dan33Klein]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/369842-led-tail-lights-b2650.html

 

[Rock Crawler]

I have a Fluke meter, so once I get done soldering a harness together, I'll look closer at that plug. It may be tomorrow, my wife and I have plans this evening and I'm running out of time quickly.

 

[Dan33Klein]

Sounds good, the thread I listed above is where it said the socket wiring is reversed. Incandescent doesn’t care but less do!

 

[Rock Crawler]

What you posted aligned with what I see, ground to the center pin... So I would need unsolder that and flip them to ground in the outside. That's a tomorrow project.

 

[Dan33Klein]

I figured your Sunday would be consumed by the eagles... but you’ll have to
Make time to get the tears all matching. I just ordered a 10pk of the lights myself.

 

[moship]

Now I am installing 6 x 18 watt NiLight LED cubes, 1.5 amps each, or 9 amps total. I'm actually ahead of the game by 1 amp compared to stock.

You might be drawing less than the rated watts suggest. I went through the trouble of measuring the current draw on a variety of the smaller LED lights (18, 27 and 36 watt units). The 18 watts either come in a 1x6 LED arrangement (row x # of LEDs) or 2x3 Led like you have. Both styles consumed the same current. I think this as good news. The electrical system is being taxed even less and yet, as you've seen, the light output is very bright compared to stock bulbs or halogens.

Here's a chart of results from my test. Test voltage was approximately 12.60 volts for reference.



I think a lot of people can reduce the strain on their dynamo's by following your route.