Sand Blasting and Painting Implements and Trailers

dragoneggs · Dec 21, 2017

If it were my choice, I’d pick black. White maybe will get dingy looking. Red too flashy.

blackrams · Dec 21, 2017

dragoneggs said:
If it were my choice, Iå£‡ pick black. White maybe will get dingy looking. Red too flashy.

The trailer was originally white, I was just about convinced to go with black and then I noticed some of the Conex boxes (shipping containers) that were painted an off white or almond color. KInd of a dirty white. We talked about it and I decided to go with it. It's available in rattle cans for touch ups (we all know it's gonna get scratched up eventually) and will still look off white whether its clean or dirty. I can live with that.

To each their own I guess. :drink:

Edited: BTW, did you get the pictures I emailed to you?

Rams

strum456 · Dec 21, 2017

Industrial Toys said:
I have had stuff sandblasted and painted for years now. In other words, it's a yearly ritual. My trailer hitch on my 08 GMC started to rust quite quickly. Twice, I removed it, had it sandblasted, painted it with tremclad and baked the paint. It just rusted again. Not sure what to make of this.

So although I have no issue with blasting and painting implements, I have serious reservations about spending any money on something that is already rusted and will be exposed to further road salt.

No question, road salt will rust metal fast. But it has to get to the metal somehow to do its dirty work. Damage due to chips and scratches are the obvious rust entrances. However, what you describe sounds like insufficient film thickness. Media basting creates a profile. The coarser the blast media, the greater the profile (it would look like little mountains and valleys under a microscope). I have seen many cases where the paint film was not thick enough to fully cover the blast profile. To the untrained eye, this may appear as though the rust is just magically coming out of nowhere. If the metal was blasted clean and you've got rust where there is no other damage, there simply isn't enough paint on your parts.

2458n · Dec 21, 2017

I always go with Black. State is getting smarter and asking for color on your registration now. All shop made trailers. So I have had plates mixed up before.

Industrial Toys · Dec 21, 2017

Under painting something has probably rarely been my problem. People always spoke of recycled steel already having the rust built in. Knowing the steel making process, I consider this unlikely but this stupid (oem)trailer hitch makes me wonder.

strum456 · Dec 21, 2017

Industrial Toys said:
Under painting something has probably rarely been my problem. People always spoke of recycled steel already having the rust built in. Knowing the steel making process, I consider this unlikely but this stupid (oem)trailer hitch makes me wonder.

Is it coming from seams, welds, etc.? When there is an overlap of parts that cannot be disassembled, you have a very challenging situation on your hands. Often times the blast media penetrates these areas better than one can spray the paint. Cavity wax such as Ambercoat can be helpful. If it is something that is easy to get to, a periodic spray down with hydraulic fluid may be the best way to go. I use an engine cleaning wand (works as long as it isn't too cold out).

Industrial Toys · Dec 21, 2017

I thought of that. I never noticed the paint flaking from the seams. It just seemed that one day, not long after refinishing it, the whole thing was naked and rusty.

Egon · Dec 22, 2017

After the blasting apply some phosphoric acid. That'll neutralize all rust that is left but you can't see.

strum456 · Dec 22, 2017

Egon said:
After the blasting apply some phosphoric acid. That'll neutralize all rust that is left but you can't see.

Don't use any type of acid products if you are planning to use epoxy primer unless you know how to properly neutralize the acid. If your project has seams or areas that the acid may be difficult to remove, it wouldn't be wise to use it at all. I wouldn't recommend acid for anyone that does not have a lot of experience with prep and paint work. The consequences can be disastrous.

dragoneggs · Dec 23, 2017

blackrams said:
The trailer was originally white, I was just about convinced to go with black and then I noticed some of the Conex boxes (shipping containers) that were painted an off white or almond color. KInd of a dirty white. We talked about it and I decided to go with it. It's available in rattle cans for touch ups (we all know it's gonna get scratched up eventually) and will still look off white whether its clean or dirty. I can live with that. To each their own I guess. :drink:

Edited: BTW, did you get the pictures I emailed to you?

Rams

Rams, I did get the pics... very nice trailer and worth the effort of maintenance. Thanks for sending. I figured you would go with the dirty white since it is original. I get it. Doesn't matter on the color... just git er done. I commend you for doing the maintenance and upkeep on a very nice trailer. :drink:

Egon · Dec 23, 2017

Black is one of the hardest colours to keep clean. The off white will e much easier.

blackrams · Dec 23, 2017

Egon said:
Black is one of the hardest colours to keep clean. The off white will e much easier.

It's been my experience that black and white are the two colors hardest to get and appear to look clean. They obviously aren't any dirtier than the other colors but, they do show the dirt and grime more. The off white or almond won't show the dirt as much IMHO. Doesn't matter really, it's more about rust/corrosion prevention. This is a custom built trailer built to my specifications, the cost of not maintaining it or replacing it with another trailer built to similar specs would exceed any off the shelf mass produced trailers. I knew what I wanted when I had it built and it has served it's purpose for many years.

If the sand blasting vendor does his job and cleans up the corrosion currently showing (that I am aware of) and primes, paints it as well as the other work I saw at his facility, then I should have no problems for years. I will provide him with a lot of good free advertising with a good job. If he doesn't, I'll be sure to let anyone know.

I participate on four different internet forums, a car forum, a farming forum, a motorcycle forum and this tractor forum. There is a lot of potential free, good or bad advertising that could come from this project. I got a very good price due to a holiday special he was running. I've had a bunch of folks show interest in how this project turns out. Guess we'll see when I go back to TN to get my trailer back next week.

Rams :drink:

Langanobob · Dec 23, 2017

strum456 said:
Don't use any type of acid products if you are planning to use epoxy primer unless you know how to properly neutralize the acid. If your project has seams or areas that the acid may be difficult to remove, it wouldn't be wise to use it at all. I wouldn't recommend acid for anyone that does not have a lot of experience with prep and paint work. The consequences can be disastrous.

I've been using phosphoric acid and epoxy primer for many years. The phosphoric acid is intended to be a paint prep product and it's always worked well. Maybe you are thinking of much higher strength acids?

D2Cat · Dec 23, 2017

Here's what I use and never had a problem with paint failing. Rust Inhibiting Coating SKYCO OSPHO 1 Gallon - Whitehead Industrial Hardware

blackrams · Dec 23, 2017

D2Cat said:
Here's what I use and never had a problem with paint failing. Rust Inhibiting Coating SKYCO OSPHO 1 Gallon - Whitehead Industrial Hardware

Well, shoot. Had I known about this product before I took my trailer to the sand blaster, I would have enquired about it. If it does as advertised, it would be well worth the investment. It is what it is. I'm normally a dollar short and a day late.

Rams :drink:

Deere Dude · Dec 23, 2017

D2Cat said:
Here's what I use and never had a problem with paint failing. Rust Inhibiting Coating SKYCO OSPHO 1 Gallon - Whitehead Industrial Hardware

I put that on my barn roof this summer. I had a bunch of rusted galvanized corrugated steel and it was super easy to brush on. Just like brushing on colored water. Hope it works like advertised. A few people I talked to said it will, but only time will tell..

ray66v · Dec 23, 2017

If you want to acid etch, and I highly recommend it, the easiest way is a spray on, vinyl wash primer. I do not prime bare metal without it.

I've sprayed hundreds of gallons of wash primer. And, nothing I have ever used it on has ever had any adhesion problems.

It's very economical. It only takes one thin coat, under a good epoxy sealer, to give you the best of both worlds.

Though they are constantly used over bare metal, most epoxy primers are NOT made for direct to metal application. The wash primer will make up the necessary bond coat.

Top coat with industrial enamel, (Rustoleum), in a wet on wet application. With some hardener in the top coat. The hardener will give you a molecular bond between the sealer, and the top coat, which increases chip resistance.

Industrial enamel takes forever to cure, (months), because of the cheap solvents used. But, it is very durable when it finally cures, if used as described.

Want faster gratification? Use the aforementioned automotive single stage urethane, instead of Rustoleum, for about 4x the price.

Egon · Dec 23, 2017

Keeping clean.
[video]http://www.best-auto-detailing-tips.com/car-paint-colors.html[/video]

3Ts · Dec 23, 2017

Ospho works. I ran a test in Florida. I had several light poles with a steel plate holding the lamp to the post. I did 3 of the steel plate with Ospho, followed by cold galvanizing spray paint, followed by an inexpensive top coat from a spray can. Another 3 I did the same way but left the Ospho step out. Results after 3 years: The ones with the Ospho showed no signs of corrosion. The ones without was showing the beginnings of corrosion. 7 years later (10 total) the ones with Ospho still did not show signs of corrosion. The others needed to be redone. I sold the house before I ever found out how long the Ospho protected them. I also found that after sandblasting, if you'll allow a very light coat of rust to form before applying Ospho, the Ospho works better. It appears to work by converting the iron oxide to iron phosphate which clings very tightly to iron whereas iron oxide (rust) just flakes off.

Deere Dude · Dec 23, 2017

3Ts said:
Ospho works. I ran a test in Florida. I had several light poles with a steel plate holding the lamp to the post. I did 3 of the steel plate with Ospho, followed by cold galvanizing spray paint, followed by an inexpensive top coat from a spray can. Another 3 I did the same way but left the Ospho step out. Results after 3 years: The ones with the Ospho showed no signs of corrosion. The ones without was showing the beginnings of corrosion. 7 years later (10 total) the ones with Ospho still did not show signs of corrosion. The others needed to be redone. I sold the house before I ever found out how long the Ospho protected them. I also found that after sandblasting, if you'll allow a very light coat of rust to form before applying Ospho, the Ospho works better. It appears to work by converting the iron oxide to iron phosphate which clings very tightly to iron whereas iron oxide (rust) just flakes off.

I was unsure about using Ospho on my barn roof, but feel better after reading your post. Thanks.

I would not suggest the OP let his trailer rust up a bit after sandblasting. He would shoot me.