Comparison Let's try this again.....

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hilltop Haven Farm

Bronze Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2017
Messages
50
Location
Huntingdon, Pa
Tractor
1953 jubilee
Please help with biased/unbiased FACTS. I am back in the market and need a tractor. Looking at 35-40 hp. Or???! Here's the scoop. Property is 45 acres. Half wooded, half fields. ALL hilly with most of the woods with pretty steep slopes. Will need to run a 6 ft brush hog, although alot of the field could be done with a finish mower. Some thick grass. Will need to maintain and grade alot of logging roads and main drive. Will need to clear brush and move as big of logs as possible. Will also skid logs and dig lots of post holes for fencing. Most important is budget. So I am leaning Korean (tym,kioti,ls). But not set on any, I need help. Thanks
 
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40hp should do the jobs, but with loaded rear tire or wheel weights and wheels as wide as they well go.
 
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I have no experience nor know anyone with any of those brands. There is a Kioti dealership near me but not one of the others. I have looked at the Kioti a few years back and they seem to have good extras on them.

As to budget, you may do well to consider used. Tractor and equipment. There is always those who are selling due to such as health or even death or moving and no longer needing the equipment. Just have to work to find those machines, even packages. Check out dealer support whether used or new. Would suggest four wheel drive and ag tires for traction. Rear tires will need to be loaded for the logging and grading work for traction.
 
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  • Thread Starter
#4  
Yes definitely will load tires and leaning towards ags, although some say not so good in woods. A used tier 3 would be a dream but cost versus new with warranty isn't far off.
 
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  • Thread Starter
#5  
And I'm not against any brand, just mentioning the koreans due to cost. Can't go too big frame wise but need hydro since others using it and weight.
 
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We have 65 acres and probably 2/3 is woods. Some of the things I do is brush hogging, seeding, fertilizing, discing, blading, and augering post holes. Put out round bales. Our 42 hp Mahindra does a good job but we don’t have much slope.
 
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40hp should do the jobs, but with loaded rear tire or wheel weights and wheels as wide as they well go.

Forty horsepower will spin a light duty six foot Rotary Cutter in fairly tall grass. If the grass is really tall, or particularly tough, you will need to mow in HST/LOW in order to cut it.
I recommend forty-five horsepower if you want to spin a six foot Rotary Cutter adequately in HST/MED in most conditions.
( If you will mow saplings in the woods, forty-five or fifty horsepower is necessary to power a medium or heavy duty Rotary Cutter with heavier blades and a robust tail wheel mount.)
( If you will PUSH your Rotary Cutter, which all of us do in brush, rigid, pin-adjustable Lower Link stabilizers are essential. Also called telescoping Lower Link stabilizers. Turnbuckle/chain stabilizers break easily when PUSHING loads.)

Rear tires filled 3/4 with liquid lowers the center of gravity of the tractor, making it more stable on slopes.

Heavier tractors are more stable than light tractors. Heavier tractors have wider wheel stance and larger tires on the wheels. Heavier tractors have more inertia, helping stability when heavy loads are lifted in the FEL on sloping ground. I suggest a tractor with a bare tractor weight of 4,000 pounds or more. Such tractors are fairly uniformly 66" wide with R1/ag tires, 70" wide with R4/industrial tires.

Buy a 10' stick of 1-1/4" PVC pipe. Cut it 70" wide. Mark it with tape at 66" wide. Walk around your property checking gate widths with pipe. Walk in the woods, considering space between trees you wish to preserve.

A light tractor can drag logs from the rear/center drawbar but the logs get dirty. Dirty logs dull saw chains in less than one minute. To transport logs cleanly you need to lift logs with FEL with Debris Forks, Pallet Forks, or a Grapple.

Four wheel drive is essential on slopes. Tractors only have brakes on the rear wheels. Without four wheel drive braking is inadequate on hills.

Counterbalance mounted on the Three Point Hitch is essential when lifting or moving loads with the Front End Loader.

There is nothing wrong with Kioti nor LS. It is an open question if TYM will be viable in the USA over the long term.

I am on my third tractor. My first two tractors were basic. At age 67 years I purchased a Kubota 'Grand L' with DeLuxe kit standard. Money well spent. Two years ago at the SE Ag Expo in Moultrie, Georgia, I closely inspected the LS XR4000 series, 40 and 46-horsepower, 4,300 pounds bare tractor, many of the DeLuxe features of the Kubota Grand Ls. I was impressed. The LS brochure is before me.

I am sure Kioti has an equivalent fully featured model.
(Every winter there seem to be multiple threads on T-B-N titled "Kioti Won't Start" that are not seen for LS tractors.)

DeLuxe tractors usually offer more rear wheel width options.

R4/industrial tires are the most frequent tire choice with Loaders. R4s are wider and usually six ply, sometimes eight ply, so they squat less under heavy bucket loads. R4 six ply tire sidewalls are 50% more puncture proof than four ply tire sidewalls. Tractors with loaders often carry wood some distance over hard surface roads to a burn pile. RELATIVELY smooth R4 tires are much more comfortable and last longer on hard surface roads, relative to softer R1 "bar" tires. When 3/4 loaded, rear R4s take more fluid than R1s.

R1/ag tires are usually four ply, sometimes six ply. If TRACTION is key to your needs, R1s clearly have a traction advantage in moist soil. PA seems to be a state where R1 vs R4 seems to be more a 50/50% split, rather than R4 85%/15% split in most markets, probably a factor of two mud seasons in PA. R1s can be spaced farther apart than R4s.

You can select the time and conditions when you grade your roads, so R1s are not essential for you. Farmers sometimes MUST get into fields to plant or harvest, regardless of soil moisture. If you decide on R1s, see if you can order six ply rather than four ply for woods work.

For tearing out brush, a Ratchet Rake bucket attachment is the optimum tool. Lots of videos on U-tube. (search: tractor ratchet rake.)
 
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And how important is hp in my situation?

From what you have posted SO FAR horsepower is only important relative to adequately powering a six foot Rotary Cutter.

Post Hole Augers require less horsepower than Rotary Cutters.
 
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Of the three brands listed I prefer Kioti and LS over TYM. HP is important along with weight and wheel base. The longer the more stable but less nimble. Try to get a tractor that weighs close to 4K# with loaded rears. All three of the brands you listed will get you there. I would still look at Kubota, Deere, New Holland, and others to compare overall price and support. What is your max budget? Start from there.
 
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I have 20 steep acres, half in brush half forest. When upsizing tractors I ended up with a 37hp Branson 3725, another Korean make. The 20/25 series Bransons are available with three different R4 tire/wheel combinations. The middle size ones normally come on the 3725 but I got the smaller ones, with 2" spacers added to the rear. The smaller tires lower the center of gravity, making it more stable on slopes. The tradeoff is less ground clearance. I just take care when operating. It hasn't been a problem for me.

I liked the fit and finish of the Branson compared to the TYM built Mahindra- much closer to Kubota level. The Branson's built heavy- about 4000 lbs with loader and before loaded tires. It's got a tight turning radius which is important to me. The equivalent Kubota cost 8-10k more, that is a lot of implements.
 
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I would check with Messicks in Pa.,they will have lots of choices and maybe a good used unit.I also would advise at least 40 H.P.,4WD,FEL and R1's(for the woods and conditions of the North-East).I run a 6ft.bush-hog with a 44 H.P.tractor,and a 5ft.on our 35 HP.
 
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When upsizing tractors I ended up with a 37hp Branson 3725, another Korean make. The 20/25 series Bransons are available with three different R4 tire/wheel combinations. The middle size ones normally come on the 3725 but I got the smaller ones, with 2" spacers added to the rear. The smaller tires lower the center of gravity, making it more stable on slopes. The tradeoff is less ground clearance.

Interesting.

What were your three rear tire diameter choices? I realize fronts would be proportionally sized for 4-WD.
 
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In order to have any kind of traction with R4 tires in the woods, you would need to put chains on them. R1 tires provide plenty of traction and contrary to popular TBN belief, they will haul a heavy load as well as R4 tires. The only flat tire I have ever had has been with R4 tires. True they usually have more plies than R1 but you can special order R1 tires in heavy tread and plies (sometimes called Rice and Cane tires) which are just a puncture resistant as R4 tires but have the heavy bar tread that resemble a check mark rather than a straight bar.

50 HP is a good frame size to work with, not too big to be obnoxious in the tight spots, but large enough to handle the heavy bush hogs & heavy FEL loads even with R1 tires.
 
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I forgot to mention that R1 tires will wear out faster than R4 if you use them on hard surfaces a lot.
 
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I'll second the Branson's, they are heavier than most for their size and several of them have multi speed pto a feature that I use frequently the 540E (780rpm ).
I will use it on my generator and quite often on my brush hog lets me throttle down to 1750 engine rpm and have a full 540 on the pto.
As far as tires I favor R1's and bolt on wheel weights, I got away from liquid loading tires 20 years ago, the ridiculous cost, time and getting
someone out to work on one, even having the pump and barrels to do it yourself it will ruin at least one day.
 
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  • Thread Starter
#19  
So I drove a tym 394 and a kioti 4010. Ls guy didn't have any in stock to drive. Tym said they bought out Branson. Can't go over 20 k or a nx 4510 would be the ticket. So I can't compare the feel of the ls. Both tym and kioti dealers were within 30 miles and both I trust would take good care of me. Leaning toward R1s as it will never be on hard surface. Thinking 3rd function to run a grapple up front. Current brush hog is a 6 foot squealer. Seems at least medium duty but not sure.
 
/ Let's try this again..... #20  
A 40hp tractor should spin a 6 foot cutter fine. Lot of people do it with a 35 hp tractor. Get the heaviest tractor you can. The wheel spacing is very important if you have hills. The wider the better. Some wheels can be flipped to make them wider. I have a Kioti(Bobcat). It is very nimble and comfortable but it is not great on hills.
 

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