Farwood measuring guide for chainsaws...

[square1]

He said the strap was almost like a piece of inner tube, but maybe a bit heavier. You haven't seen anything like that for sale recently, have you?

These are surprisingly stout if they're the same as the one on my laptop.
LOT 2 DELL ADAPTER RUBBER STRAP PA-12 PA-1 WRAP 5T339 | eBay

 

[John_Mc]

Might work to start with something like this
Mini Quick Fist Clamp for mounting tools & equipment 5/8" - 1-3/8" diameter (Pack of 2): Mini Quick Fist: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Then add either a wire or a small fiberglass rod along the flat (mount) side, fastened with a couple heavy tie wraps? Seems like you could get just enough tension on the "clamp" part to get a friction fit ...Steve

Steve - Thanks for that link. I'm ordering a couple of those to play with. I'm not sure whether some of the corners and parts will be in the way or snag things on the handle of my saw, but this is the closest thing I've seen that is commercially available. If it doesn't work out, I can always use it to hang up tools in my garage or shop

I may try a couple of the larger sizes to carry my Peavey on my tractor's logging winch.

 

[Oldpath05]

Steve - Thanks for that link. I'm ordering a couple of those to play with. I'm not sure whether some of the corners and parts will be in the way or snag things on the handle of my saw, but this is the closest thing I've seen that is commercially available. If it doesn't work out, I can always use it to hang up tools in my garage or shop

I may try a couple of the larger sizes to carry my Peavey on my tractor's logging winch.

I hope it's not to late to second that thank you, very good input. I'm also gonna give that link a good look-see.

 

[Rustyiron]

I take a switch off any branch handy and cut it to length. The switch goes into the palm of the hand between the top handle.

:thumbsup: that's my method also.

 

[Oldpath05]

I just got this Cut-Rite guide today, It's mount is a air hose chuck so for a second use I guess could put it on my air hose. First I had to take the no fall off bar-nut off, didn't really like doing that but it had to be done, best saw improvement Husqvarna made in a long time. Next put the chain cover back on, checked out how much thread was left, measured the air hose male nut threads, had plenty so I cut off 1/4" of the nut part, smoothed it up on grinder, screwed it on, plugged the air chuck in, did the measurement check and put a piece of tape at 16", the best part is easy ON, easy OFF...Test cut Saturday.

It looks like it will work good, only issue is it measures from one side, so it will work good cutting from right to left and that's how I cut 50% of the time, 40% from left to right and that's where I might need the handle bar mounted fold in&out wire setup with super duper quick clamp, the other 10% of the time I'm wondering if it would be less of a headache with a firewood processor.
CUT-RITE CHAINSAW Stihl Husqvarna Jonsered Echo Craftsman WOOD FIREWOOD CUTTING | eBay

 

[J.Walker]

Jonsered chainsaws have the numbers molded into the clutch cover for firewood lenghts. That being said I never use them. I just start cutting from the butt end of the log so the run-out is on the top side of the leader.

 

[Oldpath05]

:thumbsup: that's my method also.

Hanging on to sticks would drive me crazy, only thing I want in my hand while cutting is the chainsaw handle.

 

[Paul Thornton]

John_Mc, feel free to use the pictures. As I said, I have had that thing for about 45 years. There are two nubs on each side, the wire is bent into an L shape and sits in a slot on the back of the orange piece. I am amazed the rubber strap has lasted all these years and have often thought a piece of tire tube would be my back-up plan. I will get it tomorrow and post some more pictures for you. I'll also look for any identification on it.

 

[Paul Thornton]

Hope this helps, no identification anywhere.

 

[crazyal]

I just took a 4 1/2" grinder and ground a mark in each bar at 16" from the tip. It's easy to see and quick. Sure you need to turn the saw sideways but it beats having to carry something. I thought about mounting something to one of the dogs. I looked at the cut-rite attachment but it doesn't look like there's a spring on it. If all you're cutting is perfect logs then it wouldn't be an issue but if you're cutting around branches and had to keep taking it off I think it would be tiresome.

 

[Oldpath05]

I just took a 4 1/2" grinder and ground a mark in each bar at 16" from the tip. It's easy to see and quick. Sure you need to turn the saw sideways but it beats having to carry something. I thought about mounting something to one of the dogs. I looked at the cut-rite attachment but it doesn't look like there's a spring on it. If all you're cutting is perfect logs then it wouldn't be an issue but if you're cutting around branches and had to keep taking it off I think it would be tiresome.

I tried that turn-saw hand dance about 3 cuts, that was enough, I just want to cut when it's time to cut, full throttle wide open, getterrrrrr done. Spring not needed, that nylon rod will bend around in a circle, in the brush, top of tree, on the edge of Grand Canyon, no problemo if you can unplug an air hose you can unplug the Cut Rite, and that's the most important part, on quick, off quick, now I'll collect my commission$$$$$$$

 

[John_Mc]

Hope this helps, no identification anywhere.

Thanks, Paul

 

[DieselBound]

I gave up measuring, took too much time and it was just another item for me to misplace (when you're working out in the field, where there's lots of brush, stuff tends to disappear and the next thing you know you're spending more time doing the "where is that measuring thing?" dance).

18" bar. I take one orienting aim with it and then just walk along and saw. No need to flip the saw around for EVERY cut! Look at the pieces you've cut for a guide to adjust your sense of cut length. And, face it, lots of measured lengths are going to fall on knots which you'd have/want to work around anyway: so, you're going to be either short or long.

 

[Deere Dude]

How about putting a band around the log and marking all the way around. Should be able to get nice even and straight firewood chunks. Just move it along the log and remark as needed. The last piece may not come out even though.

 

[TomSeller]

It is more aesthetically pleasing to me to watch wood burn in the stove with a little mismatch in wood size. That is why I eyeball them.

 

[John_Mc]

It is more aesthetically pleasing to me to watch wood burn in the stove with a little mismatch in wood size. That is why I eyeball them.

Symmetry is over-rated.

My issue is not with looks. My stove can handle more than a 16" log, but I like to have space for air circulation around the ends (It just seems to burn better), while still having it full enough to get a good charge in there. My problem is that I tend to drift in size: I can eyeball a 4 to 6 foot log into even thirds or fourths easily, but when I'm starting at one end of a tree and cutting to the other, I keep drifting. It's worse when I switch from one diameter log to another, I almost always increase or decrease the length in proportion (even when I'm thinking about it).

 

[CincyFlyer]

Ho Man you are hard to please! I live out in the boonies. I'm not going to drive an hour one way to look for something a store might have. It's just quicker to weld something up. And it's not that hard either. But thanks for your help.

Heck, I live 1 kilometer from Lowe's, and I'd still rather weld something up.

 

[DieselBound]

Symmetry is over-rated.

My issue is not with looks. My stove can handle more than a 16" log, but I like to have space for air circulation around the ends (It just seems to burn better), while still having it full enough to get a good charge in there. My problem is that I tend to drift in size: I can eyeball a 4 to 6 foot log into even thirds or fourths easily, but when I'm starting at one end of a tree and cutting to the other, I keep drifting. It's worse when I switch from one diameter log to another, I almost always increase or decrease the length in proportion (even when I'm thinking about it).

If you think about it too hard then for sure you'll screw up! I know that I do. But... life is all about continuous adjustments. Approach it all like that's the case. Establish the length (in a way that is convincing to yourself) and then as you make subsequent cuts you can see a correct length right there for comparison. Every so often double-check that you're guessing correctly. After a while, and without really thinking too hard about it, you'll be automatically adjusting (and doing so with a fair degree of accuracy). I'll walk my saw along from time to time, but I don't have to do it for every cut (only to double-check for whether I can cut long on a knot side or not).

From time to time I'll run across a piece that was cut long. Mostly, however, I can just angle them in the stove to get them to fit. Such pieces are OK if you're not needing to pack the stove: I live in a more temperate climate, so sometimes I only need a small bit of heat/fire.

 

[Oldpath05]

I give the Cut-Rite chainsaw guide 5 stars, finally got a chance to used it today for a couple hrs., takes a hair longer to put on but less than 1/2 a hair in time to take off, comes off in a snap, no hand dancing the saw, just lay the blade, boom right there 16"> stick after stick until I get to the middle of tree from both ends, tip the bucket finish up the middle 6'-ish, the smaller ends I make 18-20", I left the guide-rod at 18" with piece of tape at 16". Works the best from right to left, from left to right have to pick a spot on the tree for the next cut while finning the first cut, no more wood over 20".
Amazon.com: Cut-Rite Chainsaw Firewood Measuring Tool-Accessory, Detachable, Flexible, Stick, Cutting, Mounts directly to bar nut.: Patio, Lawn & Garden

There's no imaginary hunting for the 18" inch guide, if you cut wood with clothes on then unplug the guide and stick it in the back pocket for refueling. I added a 1-1/2" X 10" small block of wood to my saw carryer, drilled 3/8" hole in it to stow the guide. I also had to add an 3/4" X 1" deep slot in my saw carryer because the plug-in nut is almost an 1" long, I picture of my saw carryer somewhere, might have to grab another one, in the mean time here's a couple pics. from last season when my son stopped in, same game this year only difference is now the wood is Cut-Rite

 

[DieselBound]

There's no imaginary hunting for the 18" inch guide, if you cut wood with clothes on then unplug the guide and stick it in the back pocket for refueling.

Having something that's 18" sticking off your body? I have to watch out for my existing appendages as it is. Apparently you operate in a tamer environment. I'm not retired, so, sadly, stuff that I do isn't so leisurely.