New Branson 25 series

[Hombre]

Went over to the dealer where I bought my 4020R to buy a canopy for it and he say's "come here, let me show you the new series Branson just came out with". There it sat, a new 3725. He started showing me all the "upgrades" on this new one. Pretty darn nice :licking:. Told him that figures, you sell me a new tractor a couple months before the "new, improved" model shows up...(seems like I'm always "that guy") Well at least he gave me a really good deal on the canopy. :thumbsup:

Nice setup you have there. I need to do that top & tilt to mine. While we were talking about the rear remotes on the new tractor, (your setup) I asked about doing mine and he recommended to me to go from the banjo bolt underneath (behind yours) and take that line to the valve body set on the fender instead of from where yours (and every other Branson he had there with rear remotes came from). Not sure why that would be. More investigating to be done. Good luck with your new tractor, it looks great.

 

[ericm979]

The Branson factory remotes have a complicated Rube Goldberg mechanical linkage from the levers to the valve bodies above the PTO. Each joint in the mechanisim has a bit of play or friction. So the feel at the lever is not as crisp as with a lever directly bolted on a valve. Also the two levers have completely different linkages and thus different travel and feel. The levers themselves are buried down beside the seat and the position control lever interferes with them. I think they made the position control lever short and farther back so it doesn't interfere with the shift lever on a gear drive tractor. I keep getting a remote lever up my sleeve when reaching for the position control when it's fully raised. I can deal with it but I want to make extensions for the position control and factory hydraulic levers to make them easier to use, and see if I can shim some of the pivots in the linkages to reduce play. It's not a big deal but an aftermarket setup on the fender, with levers bolted directly to the valves (like my dealer installed 3rd remote) would be better.

I got to use the top 'n tilt with the box blade the other day. It's so cool! The tilt let me level out a sloped section easily.

I already caught the top of the loader bucket indicator rod on some brush. Fortunately I noticed before I damaged it, and more fortunately it wasn't poison oak (I was ripping up a bunch of it and I'm terribly allergic). Maybe I can make a guard of some sort.

 

[PapeCAT]

25 series have a much heavier frame from the older 20 series

Hey Mr Bitz, Finally got a chance to stop by Dave's Tractor this morning to take a look at the 25 series, I didn't notice anything different with the frame, but didn't put the dial calipers on it or anything. They looked very similar if not identical to me. The front (albeit slightly wider) axle and rear chunk looked exactly the same, as did the front ladder frame/engine cradle. This was just from comparing a 5220R and 3725R side by side. What was I missing?

Dave, hope to make it by your place of business another time when you're open.

 

[lbadten]

I'm trying to decide on the 4720h or 4225h. Reviving this thread to see if there are any new opinions out there. Any additional opinions or info would be appreciated.

 

[Mr Bitz]

PapeCAT
From what I'm seeing now in the new 20 series they are the same frame as the 25 series, if you look at the 2016 20 series models they are much thinner. So I'm guessing they are going to be the same from her on out. If you look at the rear 3pt links both sides are adjustable, the 3rd link is larger, much larger fuel filter water separator system. On the cab models the cabs are quite different. Much more head room.

 

[Mr Bitz]

4225h hands down,. All improvements made from 20 series so no axle seal leaks plus smoother running engines.

 

[lbadten]

Thank you for the response. I have been having a difficult time with the +$1000 for -5hp (That's 12% more power). It still seems a bit of a decision, especially if they are using the same frame now on both. I will definitely be checking out both and will consider your thoughts on it.

 

[Mr Bitz]

Drive them both if you can. Then make the decision.

 

[ericm979]

I think it's up to the dealer but my dealer (Dave's Tractor) sells the 25s with two factory rear hydraulic remotes. After having this tractor with top and tilt for a while I would not want to be without them. Also Dave told me the DPF on the 25 is better.

 

[lbadten]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the tip on the rear hydraulic remotes.

 

[DavesTractor]

To clarify on the rear remotes, for some time we were adding them to all 25 series and pricing them out that way. But some folks never use rear remotes (they don't know what they are missing) and then they are buying hydraulics they don't need. So after some back and forth, we are now pricing our 25 series without rear remotes and we keep them on the shelf to add for customers wanting them.

 

[Mr Bitz]

Same thing I do as well Dave.

 

[Cougsfan]

Is it just me, or are the Branson rear remotes extremely difficult to fine adjust. If I try to extend the ram a bit, it requires an extremely fine touch to find neutral again without over-positioning and going back the other way. I don't dare position the rear remotes on the fly because of this. I stop and do it very carefully.

 

[madpuma13]

Is it just me, or are the Branson rear remotes extremely difficult to fine adjust. If I try to extend the ram a bit, it requires an extremely fine touch to find neutral again without over-positioning and going back the other way. I don't dare position the rear remotes on the fly because of this. I stop and do it very carefully.

Same here. Would love some solution to move it slower.

 

[ericm979]

Mine seem to have two positions- slow and fast. There's more in between that but there's not much lever motion between them.

I'm thinking of adding restrictors to the top cylinder. It's much smaller diameter than the tilt cylinder so it responds faster. Sometimes too fast- I've accidentally slammed my wood chipper into the ground a couple times.

 

[DavesTractor]

Mine seem to have two positions- slow and fast. There's more in between that but there's not much lever motion between them.

I'm thinking of adding restrictors to the top cylinder. It's much smaller diameter than the tilt cylinder so it responds faster. Sometimes too fast- I've accidentally slammed my wood chipper into the ground a couple times.

Eric, good idea on the restrictor to slow down a smaller cylinder. I bet you could buy a restrictor, even an adjustable one, via Surplus Center for not much. I've also seen guys just braze or weld a fitting closed and then drill it and test until they get a good speed. I think they make restrictors that only restrict in one direction, or both directions. For not much money, you can really fine tune your hydraulics. Restrictors build a ton of heat, but since these cylinders aren't moved much I do not think it becomes an issue. Another idea is a 5000 psi needle valve. That allows fine tuning, but it is probably an unnecessary adjustment.

 

[PapeCAT]

Things have come full circle after 14 months since I started this thread and I now own (from Dave's Tractor) a 3725H with Factory 3rd function / 66" Grapple, rear remotes and the Ind25 tires. With confirmation bias in full swing, I can say that it has been the best tractor I have operated in this size range including Green and Orange models. Was contemplating getting the rears loaded with beet juice, but with a Howse 72" box blade as ballast the rear didn't get too light even when the loader was bypassing while lifting logs. I was able to pull all but a full overloading load of material in the box blade in 2wd on flat ground. Popped into 4wd I decided there might not be any need for loaded tires in my case. I showed up at the dealership thinking I wanted the 15 series but came away with the 25 series after seeing them side by side and testing them back to back. The add-ons that I wanted for the 15 series came stock from the factory on the 25 series. It was an easy choice for me. Thanks to everyone on this forum for the info shared.

Future mods include adding a pyrometer to monitor EGT. I've heard that running at 800 degrees EGT is what is necessary to maintain a clean unplugged DPF. So I would like to actually monitor the EGT and see what is happening to adjust the way it is operated as necessary. At first I was thinking that drilling and tapping the manifold was in the cards, but upon inspection there is already a tapped hole with npt plug in the middle of the manifold, ready to go.

 

[scatterlandsfarms]

congrats on your new toy just got a Branson myself and tickled to death

 

[madpuma13]

How are you liking your 66" grapple? I have a 4720 and a 60". I can't imagine having a bigger one.

Just wondering your experience.

 

[Mr Bitz]

Congrats on the purchase. Dave is awesome, you did good.