New PT425 and Trip

[cqaigy2]

On my 422, choke all the way down, chokes the engine too much.

 

[MuncyBob]

Throttle 1/2 or maybe closer to 3/4 way, full choke but as soon as it catches choke goes to 1/4 pronto or it will sputter and smoke.

 

[jfh28]

I use throttle at about a 1/3 and full choke........then as farmall140 said as soon as it catches I bring the choke up......depends on the season as to where I raise the choke....mostly I listen to the engine as I'm raising it and once it's smooth I'll leave it there for a minute or two before raising it up all the way and going on my way.......Jack

 

[MossRoad]

I go zero throttle plus full choke. Start cranking and increase the throttle till it catches, then leave throttle there and quickly reduce choke a bit till it smooths out. But that's my 16 year old Kohler.

 

[MossRoad]

As for tying it down to a trailer with straps.... when we first got out PT425 I used straps. After maybe the 1st or 2nd haul, the straps were chafing and cutting.... so I went with chains and never regretted it. Unless you have mounting points on both the PT and the trailer where the straps will never touch anything, you will eventually start wearing your straps, or even cut them. I use the rear hitch to put my rear chains to corners of the trailer, and I mounted a tow hook on the front shelf of the PT425, right in the middle, between the lower mounting points of the FEL lift cylinders. I run from a corner of the trailer, over the implement (like the bucket or mower, cutter, etc...), through the tow hook, back over the implement and to the other corner.

Then I take the parking brake off, put a load binder on the rear chain, and crank it barely snug until both chains are barely snug, not tight. Then I get on the machine, fire up the engine, engage the parking brake, and mash the foot pedal to spin the tires until the brake pins engage both wheels. Then I tighten up the binder really tight. The tractor will squat on all four tires. If I shake the tractor, the entire trailer shakes. It's one solid unit at that point. Not going anywhere. :thumbsup:

 

[bol4fun]

I was using the dirt bucket with teeth today and it kept stalling out ....turning completly off..... and I would have a hard time restarting each time it stalled. I think what I was doing maybe, was pushing down on the forward treddle too much in an attempt to push through the packed down gravel surrounding a gravel pile i have behind a building for filling holes in the parking lot. The same thing happened when i pushed against a 3 to 4 inch sapling. Is the stalling typical?

 

[jfh28]

oh yeah....big time.......they just don't have enough weight or low torque when they meet an obstacle going forward.......I don't grade pushing but do it back dragging going backwards.......my neighbors always know when I've let a wet snow get too deep before plowing.......and thats saying something since my neighbors are not close....lol......guess my voice travels every time it stalls out........you'll get use to feeling when it's about to stall and learn to back off some.......use a shallower angle on the bucket or don't try to take as big a bite.....also run the throttle full and press less on the treadle instead of more.......MR said something that stuck with me....the throttle is for speed the treadle is for gear......or something like that........same thing going up steep hills.....back off on the treadle and it will crawl up.....stamp down fully and it will stall out........restarting has not been a problem.....no choke and put the throttle back to 1/2 or 1/3......also turn the key off first before turning it back on to start......I usually wait to hear the fan turn off before restarting....it's a couple of seconds......I don't know why it just seems like the right thing to do......Jack

 

[bol4fun]

Thanks for sharing.....all you guys are great.

Dumb question maybe.... is full trottle actually only a little over 1/2 way down the slot?.... it isn't marked very well and it won't go down the slot any farther than that on my unit.

 

[BobRip]

Keep your throttle wide open. This gives you the most power. The further you push the pedal down the higher the gear you are in. Therefore less torque. There is a midpoint that is best. Also it helps if you work with gravity. You do your work down hill. Gravity is added to your force not subtracted from it.

 

[coolconnection]

The throttle movement is based on how they have it connected to the motor. You can adjust it if you feel that it is affecting low throttle. Mine was like that but it has been adjusted a few time since then.

 

[cqaigy2]

The throttle movement is based on how they have it connected to the motor. You can adjust it if you feel that it is affecting low throttle. Mine was like that but it has been adjusted a few time since then.

Same with the choke too. You can adjust it on the carburetor so that the handle is where you think it ought to be.

 

[cqaigy2]

Another thing that has been talked about in the forum, is how important the brake is. Most will set it, if they get off of the tractor while the engine is running as you will sometime step in the peddles when getting back in and you really don't want to run yourself over. Most will set the brake when on a hill/slope to keep it from creeping. Watch the pitch point between the two tubs.

 

[prs]

I know nothing about PowerTracks, but I do not like the way the trailer is loaded in the pic with the initial post. Looks like almost no weight forward on the truck ball. The static weight on the ball should be no less than 10% of gross trailer weight and can be up to 20% if the tow truck will allow. With weight so far rearwad, the trailer can sway dangerously.

Rooster

 

[bol4fun]

I know nothing about PowerTracks, but I do not like the way the trailer is loaded in the pic with the initial post. Looks like almost no weight forward on the truck ball. The static weight on the ball should be no less than 10% of gross trailer weight and can be up to 20% if the tow truck will allow. With weight so far rearwad, the trailer can sway dangerously.

Rooster

Glad you mentioned the tounge weight issue for future loading. Luckily on this load, I did have lg bucket with tiller tucked inside of it at the very front of the trailer which maybe weighed 250 to 300 pounds so i might have been even a little over 10% since the 425 had the brush cuuter attached in front of it.

 

[MossRoad]

Glad you mentioned the tounge weight issue for future loading. Luckily on this load, I did have lg bucket with tiller tucked inside of it at the very front of the trailer which maybe weighed 250 to 300 pounds so i might have been even a little over 10% since the 425 had the brush cuuter attached in front of it.

That looks about the same way I load mine, except I'd back on so the engine weight is more over/in front of the forward axle and the implement on the FEL arms is facing the back. Either way, you're probably OK with the implements nested on the front of the trailer like that.

 

[MossRoad]

If you're stalling out pushing into a gravel pile with the small bucket with teeth, try these things....

Full throttle on the engine.
Keep the bucket level with the ground.
Push into the pile slowly.
While advancing forward, start curling and lifting the bucket at the same time.
The teeth should brake any tension in the pile and gravity should help fill the bucket as you curl it back and lift and move forward.

Another technique I've found effective is this...
Full throttle.
Bucket level.
Push into the pile very slowly while wiggling the steering wheel side to side a bit. It snakes the teeth through the gravel and rocks better than a straight push.
Again, lift and curl slowly while advancing forward.

You'll get used to it pretty rapidly. :thumbsup:

 

[jfh28]

I've never been real happy with the brake on mine.......the "brake" is just a cable attached to a pin which is pushed thru a toothed disk on the left rear wheel on mine....which means it has to be perfectly aligned to slip in to engage it and once in if the tractor moves any the disk pushes against the pin which makes releasing it a pain......I've gotten enough bruised knuckles operating the handle to stop using it.....what I do is drop the bucket in the front with enough pressure to lift the front wheels up off the ground and/or drop the backhoe with the teeth into the ground which will also raise the rear wheels up......if I really want to make sure I don't move I'll drop the backhoe feet down also........Jack

Another thing that has been talked about in the forum, is how important the brake is. Most will set it, if they get off of the tractor while the engine is running as you will sometime step in the peddles when getting back in and you really don't want to run yourself over. Most will set the brake when on a hill/slope to keep it from creeping. Watch the pitch point between the two tubs.

 

[bol4fun]

cqaigy2 Posted "Watch the pitch point between the two tubs".... what did you mean by "pitch point"?
Also, I am going to try the out the auger next to plant some fruit trees. I watched a short video on YouTube and the guy made it look really easy. Going to use the 24" for the trees.....
Any words of wisdom in the use of the auger would be appreciated.

 

[coolconnection]

cqaigy2 Posted "Watch the pitch point between the two tubs".... what did you mean by "pitch point"?

I think he meant pinch point. It is when the front half of the tractor and the back half of the tractor meet in a turn. Since it is articulated it pivots in the middle.

 

[cqaigy2]

Sorry, i meant pinch, not pitch, as coolconnection corrected for me.