Taking tongue jack apart

[jcummins]

This isn't on a trailer but a batwing. It's takes considerable force to make it move. It appears they took off without removing the jack and the parts sliding together are binding.

How do I get the foot out of this jack?

 

[flyerdan]

I's imagine that there is a stop to keep it from unscrewing all the way out, so if there is a 90 degree gear arrangement at the handle, I think that you have to remove the handle, drive out the roll pin on the driven gear and the whole thing should come out the bottom.

 

[Spanner]

Wow! I have never seen that before.

(Not the Tongue Jack. Seen plenty of those. Yours is toast with a bent shaft now. Buy a new one. )

No, I mean a vice mounted sideways on a staircase. roposetoast: Good use of space. (You do need to tidy-up your workspace though).

Regards,
:wrench:

 

[jcummins]

That is one very small corner of a 40x60 barn. Put that vise there for welding purposes. The steps is an easy place to sit things down. Yes need to put some of that away.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I have tried to fix those type of jacks and believe me, it is best to just buy another one. They aren't that expensive to replace and even if you could get them apart, where would you find replacement parts.

 

[Stimw]

I have worked on hundreds of them on semi trailers, though more heavy duty.
There should be a keeper on the horizontal gear, either nut or pin.
With the keeper removed the lower leg should come out.
If it works that hard you will need pound on the bottom to get it out.
If it is not bent too bad some times you can ding in the tight spot to free it up.
Worst case is if the worm shaft is damaged or worm shaft nut stripped or broken.
Once you get it apart you can figure out what is damaged. No harm in trying!

 

[jcummins]

I have worked on hundreds of them on semi trailers, though more heavy duty.
There should be a keeper on the horizontal gear, either nut or pin.
With the keeper removed the lower leg should come out.
If it works that hard you will need pound on the bottom to get it out.
If it is not bent too bad some times you can ding in the tight spot to free it up.
Worst case is if the worm shaft is damaged or worm shaft nut stripped or broken.
Once you get it apart you can figure out what is damaged. No harm in trying!

Kind of the way I see it. The gears on top are still good. Enough metal in it, if I can get apart thinking I can grind away the binding areas.

 

[Redlands Okie]

Can not tell from the picture. Is there not a "c" ring or keeper ring of some sort at the top of the shaft where it exits the square tubbing of the jack ? Handle come off, ring comes of the top of the shaft sticking out the top then the innards of the jack are pushed out the bottom.

 

[jcummins]

For anyone interested, got this apart AND realized what's binding it. The vertical gear on the handle has a pin. Everything was froze up but finally got it. The horizontal pin from a youtube video, should just then lift out to reveal a pin. Knock it out, should drop out.

My horizontal gear is perhaps permanent froze. I noted a good size dent on the outer tube that's the reason for the bind. I just started cranking, had to stop several times....it is TIGHT.

Now it's apart, what do I do with the binding dent? Have thought of just drilling holes around it and take all the metal out in that dent area? Anyone with suggestions?

 

[Diamondpilot]

Time to buy a new one!

 

[flyerdan]

I'd cut out a rectangle of the damage with a skinny wheel, turn it around and weld it back with the dent facing outward.

 

[jcummins]

I'd cut out a rectangle of the damage with a skinny wheel, turn it around and weld it back with the dent facing outward.

Not a bad idea, I was thinking along those lines.

Once I cranked it pass the dent, the jack turned with one finger. So I'll be cutting on it, in some manner.

 

[flyerdan]

If you have a press with enough oomph, maybe cut a smaller hole on the backside and put a piece of heavy flat stock inside and press it out. Heating it a dull red will help on the oomph requirement but will take off the galv.

 

[npalen]

I know that it would be easier to buy a new one but I'm the guy that finds a challenge in fixing the old one. It helps, of course, if you're retired with nothing better to do.

 

[jcummins]

I know that it would be easier to buy a new one but I'm the guy that finds a challenge in fixing the old one. It helps, of course, if you're retired with nothing better to do.

That would be me. Lack of money is a motivation.

 

[GLyford]

If you have a press with enough oomph, maybe cut a smaller hole on the backside and put a piece of heavy flat stock inside and press it out. Heating it a dull red will help on the oomph requirement but will take off the galv.

I wonder if a 6 or 8 lb. sledge and a piece of round stock (I would be tempted to start with a 1/2" hole and pin/bolt/whatever) would be enough to get it out of the way? Start centered, then maybe add one up and one down from there closer to the ends if that wasn't enough...

 

[frugalangler]

I wonder if a 6 or 8 lb. sledge and a piece of round stock (I would be tempted to start with a 1/2" hole and pin/bolt/whatever) would be enough to get it out of the way? Start centered, then maybe add one up and one down from there closer to the ends if that wasn't enough...

If you just pound on metal flat, you're likely to spread it and cause it to expand across the surface, but if you provide support around the dent then you'll push it out and not compress the metal nearly as much. Think about the last time you stepped on a packet of ketchup/catsup and how it expanded horizontally.

 

[jcummins]

Cutting and weld back...in progress. Heat plus other duties stops me for now.

 

[Stimw]

Nothing wrong with what you are doing just be careful not to get boogers inside from the welds.
Back in the 80's a company that I worked for bought rebuilt semi legs from a local guy.
He would cut, patch, straighten or what ever was needed and we got a good leg for about 1/3 the price of new!
I have heated a dent red hot like that and ran the leg up and down past the bad spot and straightened it enough to work.
Sometimes a loaded trailer had to go!

 

[flyerdan]

Just slide a chunk of pipe (pvc ok) over the acme thread before you weld it up to keep any berries from sticking to it. Chances are only one would get through but it will stick and gall everything. One thing I've learned over the years is that it's better to take a couple extra minutes to protect against the unlikely that wish that you had later.