New MT 125h owner!

[LS Tractor Owner]

I am impressed by this new scut tractor. Already dug a hole for a new septic tank (6'deep, 6'wide, 10' long) w/o any difficulty in hard clay. Quick detach loader, quick detach backhoe, 4wd, 2 range hydro, the list goes on and on. If anyone was contemplating one of these new scuts, go for it! I posted the price in the LS pricing forum.

 

[Cataclysm]

Pic's and video of this little monster please! My BIL is looking hard at these.

What all did you get with it? MMM? How well/powerful is it mowing?

All the things you really like and the things you would change or do different.

Thanks in advance!

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Pic's and video of this little monster please! My BIL is looking hard at these.

What all did you get with it? MMM? How well/powerful is it mowing?

All the things you really like and the things you would change or do different.

Thanks in advance!

I did not get a mower with this beast. (I have another dedicated mower). So far just TLB and a post hole digger. Did get 12" BH bucket and larger 9" PH auger. If hindsight was wonderful, I would have definitely gotten the mower so I could have financed it at a reduced price. So far I have dug a hole with the backhoe that was 6'w, 6'd, and 10' long in hard clay without difficulty. I then moved the pile of dirt (and I mean PILE of dirt) and the loader made quick work of it! Plenty of power in 4wd low range. Here are some pics.

 

[ThirdMan]

Have you removed the BH or FEL yet? I watched a video on the removal of the mower from a BX and this was similar. Now I will have to see about putting it back on.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Have you removed the BH or FEL yet? I watched a video on the removal of the mower from a BX and this was similar. Now I will have to see about putting it back on.
View attachment 509531

Yes I have. The fel comes off real easy, just like a JD quich attach on the 1family series. The support legs on the loader arms makes it a piece of cake. The backhoe comes off just as easy, pull a couple of pins, the hoses and off it comes. I was reading here that people said you have to take off a tire to remove the hoe, but that is not true. It just takes a bit more time than the fel because you use the hydraulics to adjust the positioning more. Send some more pics when you get the time. I am still very impressed with this little tractor. I made a " sun shade" canopy using electrical conduit and shade cloth from HD, cost $35. Covers both the forward facing and BH seating position. I'm gonna try to post some pics under " build it yourself" this week. Enjoy that new toy!

 

[ThirdMan]

I have found that taking the mower on and off is the most work. BH and FEL are very easy. The first time I took off the BH I did not put anything under it and it sank to the ground, but it was not a problem getting it back on as the hoses were long enough.

I started asking about the HST pedal linkage on the buying post, but thought that discussion should be here. Pushing the forward pedal down was starting to really go slow. It stops fine when the pedals are released, so I didn't adjust the neutral lever or switch. I finally got the time to crawl under it with a wrench and made some progress, but still think it is not right. I can't find a digital version of the manual, so I attached a picture of page 5-13. I adjusted the rod marked 6 after loosening the bolt 5. The bolt was on the forward side of the rod unlike the picture. This allowed the forward pedal to engage earlier when depressed, but then the reverse didn't engage. I adjusted reverse stopper bolt marked 9. What am I missing?

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

I have found that taking the mower on and off is the most work. BH and FEL are very easy. The first time I took off the BH I did not put anything under it and it sank to the ground, but it was not a problem getting it back on as the hoses were long enough.

I started asking about the HST pedal linkage on the buying post, but thought that discussion should be here. Pushing the forward pedal down was starting to really go slow. It stops fine when the pedals are released, so I didn't adjust the neutral lever or switch. I finally got the time to crawl under it with a wrench and made some progress, but still think it is not right. View attachment 512729 I can't find a digital version of the manual, so I attached a picture of page 5-13. I adjusted the rod marked 6 after loosening the bolt 5. The bolt was on the forward side of the rod unlike the picture. This allowed the forward pedal to engage earlier when depressed, but then the reverse didn't engage. I adjusted reverse stopper bolt marked 9. What am I missing?

The bolt(nut) #5, doesn't matter if it is to the front or back, it's a lock nut for the coupler. Mine is also on the front. There should be a little play in that rod, not much, but just a little (#5 and 6 adjust the length of the rod). If you changed the length of this rod, could be the problem. This will "balance" the pedals at a neutral position, but the pedals must be in that neutral position when the rod is adjusted. Make sure your not moving any other linkage when doing this. This rod will also adjust when forward or reverse engages. #7,8,9 adjusts the other end of the linkage to find the "neutral" position of the HST. I did not mess w/ any of these. I only adjusted the tension spring (using #3 and 4) to return the pedals to a neutral position. The stoppers, #9, adjust how far the pedals move (both forward and reverse) to prevent over-engagement or causing the HST to go past the limits. Changing any one of these will change the corresponding attachment or linkage. In the manual, each and every step must be done in order to make sure each is correct.

 

[ThirdMan]

The bolt(nut) #5, doesn't matter if it is to the front or back, it's a lock nut for the coupler. Mine is also on the front. There should be a little play in that rod, not much, but just a little (#5 and 6 adjust the length of the rod). If you changed the length of this rod, could be the problem. This will "balance" the pedals at a neutral position, but the pedals must be in that neutral position when the rod is adjusted. Make sure your not moving any other linkage when doing this. This rod will also adjust when forward or reverse engages. #7,8,9 adjusts the other end of the linkage to find the "neutral" position of the HST. I did not mess w/ any of these. I only adjusted the tension spring (using #3 and 4) to return the pedals to a neutral position. The stoppers, #9, adjust how far the pedals move (both forward and reverse) to prevent over-engagement or causing the HST to go past the limits. Changing any one of these will change the corresponding attachment or linkage. In the manual, each and every step must be done in order to make sure each is correct.

Thanks for the write up. I will give it another try.

 

[ThirdMan]

Ok, the thing I am not sure about is the pedal position. My forward pedal can move by about 3 inches without any resistance. Is that how it is supposed to be?

Those are pictures of the top and bottom of pedal movement with just finger pressure. The pedal will stay in either of those positions.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

No, they should be even, maybe a 1/4 to 3/8 play before the opposite pedal moves. Try adjusting #5 and #6 again. Loosen 5 and turn 6 to shorten or lengthen the rod. Should be able to get the pedals to line up doing this. Make sure all of the other connections under the floor board ( some just have a washer and cotter pin ) are connected.

 

[ThirdMan]

They both move together, they just don't apply any tension or pressure on the rod until they are almost at the limit of their movement. Thank you so much for taking time to talk me through this. I called the dealer and might have to have a mechanic look at it.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

They both move together, they just don't apply any tension or pressure on the rod until they are almost at the limit of their movement. Thank you so much for taking time to talk me through this. I called the dealer and might have to have a mechanic look at it.

Yea, the rod may be set too long or something else may have loosened up. It's hard to try and diagnose something w/o looking at it. I wish I could have helped more and solved the problem. Good luck and let us know how it turned out.

 

[ThirdMan]

I confirmed that the loader is still running well and can lift normally. The tractor will not back up almost at all even in low range. No tire spin, just no movement. I could spin the tires a few weeks ago when uprooting some big honeysuckle. In fact I had a much power as I could want and travel speed was great. My wife was mowing up and down a 20% slope in high.

The mechanic at the dealer was injured and isn't back to work yet. I will see about either having them send someone out or picking it up. I will update when I have more info.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Keep me posted on what was wrong when you find out.

 

[ThirdMan]

So my pedals actually went totally slack. They would not engage the drive at all. The mechanic came out and was not here for long.
It turns out that this pin in the linkage between the pedals and that connector rod had worked loose. I was not there to see the fix,
but I have before and after pictures. I think he just hammered it back in. Now the pedals actually engage the drive again and the tractor is back to normal and working hard again!
Before

After

 

[3Lfarms]

Glad it was an easy fix.
If that pin goes all the way through that shaft, you can run a piece of wire through it and twist the two ends together on the side of the shaft to prevent the pin from coming out again.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

So my pedals actually went totally slack. They would not engage the drive at all. The mechanic came out and was not here for long.
It turns out that this pin in the linkage between the pedals and that connector rod had worked loose. I was not there to see the fix,
but I have before and after pictures. I think he just hammered it back in. Now the pedals actually engage the drive again and the tractor is back to normal and working hard again!
Before
View attachment 513596
AfterView attachment 513597

Glad to hear it was a simple fix. I'll check mine out tomorrow to see if that pin is loose. Gonna do the wire trick previously posted to make sure it does not work out.

 

[ThirdMan]

While spending that time under the machine I noticed that there is a rear skid plate that protects the rear transmission fan. My HST filter is a little dented up though (I am pretty sure that is the rounded cylinder down there).

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

While spending that time under the machine I noticed that there is a rear skid plate that protects the rear transmission fan. My HST filter is a little dented up though (I am pretty sure that is the rounded cylinder down there).

The HST filter is on the right side of the trans facing forward. The hydraulic filter is on the left side just below and rear of the axle. It has it's own little skid plate that removes w/ 2 bolts to change the filter. The HST filter seems pretty high up to be hitting things to dent it, you would definitely be hitting the tranny too. Wonder if it was dented during assembly?