65HP Utility Tractor

[buckeye21]

Looking for a minimum of 50HP at the PTO for a 7t MX7 JD rotary cutter. JD calls for a minimum of 50HP for that model. I also would like to use a cat1 6ft disk and 2 bottom plow for deer plots. A FEL would be nice down the road but I believe it's out of budget at the moment. Main purpose would be to mow around 40 acres of grass per year which we put about 100-150 hours per year to due so. I also have about 5 acres of food plots. My current setup is a JD 2350 with the MX7, which performs great for what we need to do but due to constant hydro leaks and the current rear main seal leak I'm planning to get a new tractor.

Have my eyes set on a JD 5065 2WD or a MF 2606H. There is also a New Holland, Kubota, Mahindra, and Case dealer nearby. JD has the biggest/best service in the area, next to Kubota, MF and New Holland.

Any suggestions on a durable utility tractor?

 

[jeff9366]

KUBOTA M5660SU: http://www.kubota.com/product/M5660/M5660.aspx

Category 1 / Category 2 Three Point Hitch.

4,400 pounds

 

[jeff9366]

My current setup is a JD 2350, which performs great for what we need to do but due to constant hydro leaks and the current rear main seal leak I'm planning to get a new tractor.

JD has the best service in the area.

What can't Deere repair your leaks?

How many engine hours on your tractor? If you are the original owner 12,000 reliable hours should be expected.

I am a fan of HST transmissions as I do a lot of loader work. However for your tasks, mowing and food plots, I would favor hydraulic shuttle shift. 10% more engine power to the ground, 10% better fuel economy.

 

[buckeye21]

We have 5,9xx hours on it, 95% of the hours have been PTO. It's been a great tractor and we are the original owner, but the average cost for fixing the leaks have been around $900-1,300/ year. If its not leaking at the rear main seal, it's at the links or up front near the radiator. Just the mess and hassle of getting it in the shop have added up.

I guess a better question, would you keep sinking money in it or get a new one. Both places where we offer to traded in said "oh, this is a real tractor". I guess they don't make them like this anymore?

 

[jeff9366]

We have 5,9xx hours on it, 95% of the hours have been PTO. It's been a great tractor and we are the original owner, but the average cost for fixing the leaks have been around $900-1,300/ year. If its not leaking at the rear main seal, it's at the links or up front near the radiator.

With that record I would not consider buying from this Deere dealer again. That amount of repetitive maintenance is outrageous for an owner operated tractor. Probably average for an employee operated tractor.

I guess a better question, would you keep sinking money in it or get a new one?

I cannot judge from here. But I I would ask around and find a better Deere dealer for service. You should have another 5,000 hours in that good, heavy tractor with competent service. With Deere, you will never have a problem with parts availability.

Do you operate the tractor commercially so you have the benefit of depreciation?

 

[Turbys_1700]

Your 2350 is a real tractor. 89" WB with a 7K# tractor in 2WD. You're going to be paying a lot of $$$ to get anything comparable to that size and weight today. Personally I would keep fixing the 2350 but that is just me. FWIW I bought a nice used 4610SU couple years ago to brush hog with. 2900 hours at the time and no leaks. Bought it for less than what a decent zero turn costs. If you want a new tractor all the major brands are good.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

Welcome to the TBN!

And welcome from Columbus.

I think what you will find is the same as I found looking at and researching the rainbow is: there's no bad ones to watch out for, some people have bad luck with diff models but it's not definite.

I will agree that around here the JD dealers are rock stars compared to the others, one I like to go to is JD Equipment in Lancaster.

Taylor and Sons is a Kubota dealer in Canal Winchester will work with you, they have been there a long time and I got a good price from them on a L3901.

Franklin (New Holland) off 33 got back with me 2 weeks after I walked into there showroom, they by far had the worst warranty (2 years on tractor, 1 year on implements).

Specialty Tractors in Lancaster is a hungry Mahindra dealer, seems they haven't had luck getting rid of there stock, someone on here was pricing out a new 2015 1533 about a month ago, I priced the same tractor out with them last October lol.

The case dealer in Circleville is another that's a old dealer, it seems there more geared towards larger equipment, my cousin bought a 150hp anteater off them and a few other things. He paid 15k for that anteater I believe, don't know how many hours, I had them price me a compact case (they didn't have on site) was 26k lol, the compacts they sell Kubota.

I think the best bang for your buck will prob be Mahindra but I'm concerned how long the dealers are gonna be around because it seems there not selling as well, JD and Kubota have a heavy network in this area.

I don't know much about the massy but I would narrow it down to Kubota or Deere around here.

That being said, I was gonna sign on a new 2015 1533 threw Specialty Tractors because that price knocked the socks off the rest, I ended up buying a used JD 4320 with 835 hours, go figure lol. I'm very happy with my choice.

 

[buckeye21]

Thanks, for all your help everyone. I've been quoted around $15,000 on both the 2606H and the 5065 on trade so I would like to stay near that price or below. I like the kubota models so I will have to give them a better look. My main concern with most of the dealer's comments is the weight. They have been comparing the newer models with the 2350 and they both have said I need at least 700-1,000lbs up front. I wonder if 1,000lbs up front is too much on a tractor over time, not sure what that would do for the overall long term stability.

Would I be losing anything other than traction by going with a new model, other than quite a bit of money?

JD equipment has done majority of the work on the tractor, and sometimes getting the bill from them will scare me. I actually had to send it back to them after spending $700 because the issue was still there.

Would a lightly used model be better for my situation, since I'm not really looking for any sought-after features? I just have taken some advice of "well you will get what you want and know how it was taken care of".

 

[jeff9366]

Do you operate the tractor commercially so you have the benefit of depreciation?

TURBYS: "Your 2350 is a real tractor. 89" WB with a 7,000 tractor in 2WD."
Better tractor weight in strengthening chassis steel than dumb front weights IF you can get your JD2350 properly repaired.

"I actually had to send it back to them after spending $700 because the issue was still there."
Why did you praise Deere service in Post #1? Perhaps incorrectly, I took it as praise.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

I would say if they fix a seal then it should be good for years to come, not have to be torn apart every year for the same leak, if the same probs come up I would say the mechanics at the dealer is to blame.

And no, I don't believe 1000lbs on the front will hurt the tractor, mainly because my 4 series has a FEL on all the time, always has and my 400X loader weighs 927lbs, it's like having a loader on the front. I'm sure a new tractor will take care of your needs well.

Do I think it's worth upgrading? Well that's up to you, your machine is to the age it's gonna need a new hose or something every time you turn around, for people that do there own maintenance for the most part, that's not as big of a deal, if your constantly in the dealer year after year for relatively the same repairs, I can see where your frustration lies.

A new machine will be built cheaper, more plastic where on yours may be metal, you have the DPF filter on the new machine so you will have to sit and weight for the 15-20 min burn off cycle every 65 hours or so I have read but I'm not sure on that.

Only downfall to tier 4 is when the DPF filter needs cut open and cleaned or replaced all together, not sure how many hours but I hear it's big bucks.

From what I hear about the scary DPF filters is operators are breathing cleaner air while operating, I'm not sold that it will save the planet but locally it's good for air quality. Guys report that the tractor runs quieter, and don't blow smoke at start up ext.

So if you buy a new machine, I think you will have a while before you have to worry about service, you will prob have a nicer, more comfortable ride and might be quieter.

If it was me? I would buy a machine with low hours or new, I would keep your 2350 as a back up tractor or sell it on CL, guys are really scared of the DPF and emissions stuff so the older and heavier built tractors are bringing good money, I wouldn't trade it in on a new tractor if you want to sell it.

I get aggravated when my stuff breaks down, I will change parts but I reach a point when I send stuff down the road, I don't care of the age on my equipment as long as it's not letting me down constantly. My pick up is a 81 F150, most dependable and cheapest to own truck I have owned lol.

6k hours is getting up there on a tractor but my fam has tractors on the farm with 10-20k hours, it's not uncommon, but they farm, for just mowing a lighter built tractor will do just fine and no worries on the maintenance for a long time.

 

[buckeye21]

Tractor has been deprecated. Well I guess it was two sided, they supposedly are a good service company. Large company but I wonder if that could be some issue to it. The cost has been significant over the years and the leaks continue. There has been times where they have had me up and running at the cost of $450. I wasn't sure if it was at fault of service techs or the 1989 tractor.

I would like to keep running it since the engine sounds great and the PTO has good power. There is a loud knock coming from the rear when letting off the clutch into gear. Not sure what that issue could be but it still performs well.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

Also my 4320 could handle your MX7 cutter just fine, mines turbo 48hp (41 PTO) 4wd with R4s, on there website they call for 40hp min on the MX7 cutter, that's over 5HP per foot. A open top 4 series 4x4 with no loader can be picked up pretty cheap.

Medium-Duty Rotary Cutters | MX7 Rotary Cutter | John Deere US

 

[jeff9366]

BrokeFarmerJohn: "Your machine is to the age it's gonna need a new hose or something every time you turn around, for people that do there own maintenance for the most part, that's not as big of a deal, if your constantly in the dealer year after year for relatively the same repairs, I see where your frustration lies."

No FEL on OP's tractor. About 70% of repair bills I have paid on two new-purchased Kubotas were FEL repairs. They get worked hard, protrude, and get banged around despite my prudent pilotage.

What has been your experience?

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

I have only owned my tractor 6 months, put about 30 or so hours on it in that time (now 855h) no issues so far.

I just use mine for FEL work feeding cattle round bales and such, I have to run my tractor down the road once or twice a month in high range to work it lol. I'm not the one to ask on longevity. But it doesn't matter what color it is, eventually it will break down.

On the farm they have 95% case and international, they basically have all the tractors they ever owned, only ones they trade off are trouble makers and big magnums in order to buy bigger magnums, I think there biggest is a 350hp magnum.

They live about 1 hour and half from me so I didn't grow up on the farm or around it for that matter.

 

[buckeye21]

Thanks again for everyone's input.

I would like to have a FEL, what kind of hassle are they to have on while bush-hogging? Not sure if it's much of a hassle to quick detach them. I would be using tractor for mowing 90% of the time.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

Thanks again for everyone's input.

I would like to have a FEL, what kind of hassle are they to have on while bush-hogging? Not sure if it's much of a hassle to quick detach them. I would be using tractor for mowing 90% of the time.

How To Remove A John Deere Loader - YouTube

Importance of Quick attach FEL. Kubota has a similar set up I believe

 

[jeff9366]

The simpler alternative is to leave FEL on tractor and just drop the vision blocking bucket. You are seeking front end weight anyway.

With an SSQA (Skid Steer Quick Attach) bucket setting aside requires only shifting two lock levers.
VIDEO: Skid Steer Quick Attach - YouTube

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

If I had to mow that's what I would do, just drop the bucket.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

Every company but JD that I know of uses the SSQA system, JD has a proprietary quick attach.

It's deff easier and sometimes cheaper to buy SSQA attachments but the JD version is pretty readily available. I would prefer the SSQA if I had a choice.

The "economy" tractors have bolted buckets and FEL that are not easy to take off, you wouldn't want that, you want the tractor to be absolutely as "universal" as possible. Ordering a new tractor I would buy a 3rd function for the FEL with the button on the loader joystick and 2-4 rear remotes.

If mostly mowing with a 4x4 I would get turf tires (the Titan turf savers or something more aggressive).

 

[Turbys_1700]

I never take my FEL off but do drop the bucket. If I am hogging an area that may have some debris I will take the grapple with me and run with it on. I can't think of the number of times that a tree limb or other obstacle has been in the way and I would go around it while hogging. Not any more.