Adding Snow Plow- Switching Hydraulic Line Question?

[ldowney]

Hey guys. I'm adding a 7 ft. snow plow (pictured below) with the quick attach mount to my Kubota L4060 tractor. The plow has two hydraulic cylinders with two quick connect hose ends on it. What I'm wanting to do is connect the snow plow and set my curl angle of the blade. Then disconnect the two curl angle hydraulic lines. Connect with extension hoses, the two lines coming from the snow plow. This way I can still raise and lower my plow and also using the side to side motion of my stick, to turn the snow plow from left to right.

I called my local Kubota dealer today and they said that wouldn't work. I would need to add a $1,100 3rd function system for it to work. As little of snow that we get here in NC, I'm not wanting to invest $1,500 for the plow and another $1,100 for the 3rd function.

Is anyone out there, other than my buddy who told me this works just fine on his Kubota M series tractor, doing this method? Seems like it would work just fine to me. Suggestions? Concerns?

Thank you.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Have you a rear mounted spool valve on your tractor? If so, a rear spool valve is the least expensive way to hook up hydraulics and run hoses up to the front so as to be able to windrow your plow.

Losing your curl feature may have a cost as the curl feature can be used to get yourself unstuck by picking up the front of your tractor and levering yourself forward or backward.

 

[71bronco]

Hey guys. I'm adding a 7 ft. snow plow (pictured below) with the quick attach mount to my Kubota L4060 tractor. The plow has two hydraulic cylinders with two quick connect hose ends on it. What I'm wanting to do is connect the snow plow and set my curl angle of the blade. Then disconnect the two curl angle hydraulic lines. Connect with extension hoses, the two lines coming from the snow plow. This way I can still raise and lower my plow and also using the side to side motion of my stick, to turn the snow plow from left to right.

I called my local Kubota dealer today and they said that wouldn't work. I would need to add a $1,100 3rd function system for it to work. As little of snow that we get here in NC, I'm not wanting to invest $1,500 for the plow and another $1,100 for the 3rd function.

Is anyone out there, other than my buddy who told me this works just fine on his Kubota M series tractor, doing this method? Seems like it would work just fine to me. Suggestions? Concerns?

Thank you.

View attachment 491408

Exactly what I do on my L3240. To get it to go right I have to push the joystick all the way to the right because of the regen feature. I just ran 2 extra hoses to the front and switch them when the plow goes on. Someday I'll put a diverter valve on but this works good for the plow for now.

Jeff

 

[ldowney]

Exactly what I do on my L3240. To get it to go right I have to push the joystick all the way to the right because of the regen feature. I just ran 2 extra hoses to the front and switch them when the plow goes on. Someday I'll put a diverter valve on but this works good for the plow for now.

Jeff

Great. This is the feedback I'm looking for. Someone, other than my buddy, that is running a front end snow plow with hydraulics this way.

One questions- pushing the stick all the way to the right because of "regen feature"? What do you mean?

 

[ldowney]

Have you a rear mounted spool valve on your tractor? If so, a rear spool valve is the least expensive way to hook up hydraulics and run hoses up to the front so as to be able to windrow your plow.

Losing your curl feature may have a cost as the curl feature can be used to get yourself unstuck by picking up the front of your tractor and levering yourself forward or backward.

No. I just have the standard FEL mount inside the cab.

Good point about getting unstuck using the curl feature. Might be something I could just do without to not have to spend $1,100 on a 3rd function set for the front end. We don't get that deep of snow to get stuck here in NC. If we got 15+ inches at a time, I would worry more I guess about getting stuck.

Thanks

 

[Fallon]

I haven't built my plow for my L4060 yet & my old small manual one ran off with my L3200. Have a I think it's 84" old beatup truck plow to mount. I got a 3rd function on mine, but looked seriously at a diverter.

My L3200 & economy machines only have a regen dump on them & won't work with single acting cylinders on all truck plows. Skid steer plows often have a double acting angle cylinders so this might not be a problem.

My new L4060 has a 4 stage curl/dump valve, confirmed by the owners manual. All grands are that way I think. 3rd stage on the right is regen dump. But if you go all the way right it's power dump & would work for single acting cylinders with a diverter or stealing the bucket hoses.

Personally I used curl a fair bit on my L3200 when plowing to get unstuck or change the blade attack angle depending on conditions.

 

[LD1]

I would not want to be without curl. Curl is actually all I use to raise and lower the plow. Once my height is set with the loader, to ensure the A-frame is on a level plane (keeps the plow edge level when angling left and right), I no longer touch the height of the loader. Rather I use curl to raise and lower the plow. That way I can use my bucket level indicator to go back the "home" position every time and eliminate the guesswork.

I would double check the Regen feature though before you go to all the trouble. My L3400 had recently in first position, and power position beyond that, which is what you want. However, my MX....is Regen only. Found that out when installing the grapple.

I don't know your level of hydraulic knowledge or mechanical ability, bit I'd look at either a diverter or third function. And install it yourself. I have less than $250 in my diverter, which runs my grapple and plow. Uses the same valve as your loader, you just squeeze a trigger or press a button. IE: in your case....push joystick right, bucket dumps, pull it left, and bucket curls. Squeeze trigger or push button mounter on tour joystick, and push right...plow goes right. Squeeze button and pull left, blow goes left. And you still have curl function.

 

[71bronco]

I would not want to be without curl. Curl is actually all I use to raise and lower the plow. Once my height is set with the loader, to ensure the A-frame is on a level plane (keeps the plow edge level when angling left and right), I no longer touch the height of the loader. Rather I use curl to raise and lower the plow. That way I can use my bucket level indicator to go back the "home" position every time and eliminate the guesswork.

I would double check the Regen feature though before you go to all the trouble. My L3400 had recently in first position, and power position beyond that, which is what you want. However, my MX....is Regen only. Found that out when installing the grapple.

I don't know your level of hydraulic knowledge or mechanical ability, bit I'd look at either a diverter or third function. And install it yourself. I have less than $250 in my diverter, which runs my grapple and plow. Uses the same valve as your loader, you just squeeze a trigger or press a button. IE: in your case....push joystick right, bucket dumps, pull it left, and bucket curls. Squeeze trigger or push button mounter on tour joystick, and push right...plow goes right. Squeeze button and pull left, blow goes left. And you still have curl function.

Since I still use the chain on the plow once I set the curl before switching hoses, the plow works just like it did on a truck. Going up and down sets the level of the plow.

Jeff

 

[LD1]

Lowering back down to the exact height Everytime is my issue when using the loader lift. There is no reference on just how high the loader is.

But I do have a bucket level indicator. So if I curl back to raise the plow, uncurling back to the exact same place every time is easy

 

[ldowney]

I haven't built my plow for my L4060 yet & my old small manual one ran off with my L3200. Have a I think it's 84" old beatup truck plow to mount. I got a 3rd function on mine, but looked seriously at a diverter.

My L3200 & economy machines only have a regen dump on them & won't work with single acting cylinders on all truck plows. Skid steer plows often have a double acting angle cylinders so this might not be a problem.

My new L4060 has a 4 stage curl/dump valve, confirmed by the owners manual. All grands are that way I think. 3rd stage on the right is regen dump. But if you go all the way right it's power dump & would work for single acting cylinders with a diverter or stealing the bucket hoses.

Personally I used curl a fair bit on my L3200 when plowing to get unstuck or change the blade attack angle depending on conditions.

I just called my local dealer again and spoke with someone in service. He confirmed that the L4060 has the 4 stage valve and would work just fine swapping out the curl hoses for the snow plow angle hoses. I will probably just go that route as little of snow that we get here in NC, just doesn't make sense in spending the money on a diverter or a 3rd function. Thanks again for your info.

 

[ldowney]

I would not want to be without curl. Curl is actually all I use to raise and lower the plow. Once my height is set with the loader, to ensure the A-frame is on a level plane (keeps the plow edge level when angling left and right), I no longer touch the height of the loader. Rather I use curl to raise and lower the plow. That way I can use my bucket level indicator to go back the "home" position every time and eliminate the guesswork.

I would double check the Regen feature though before you go to all the trouble. My L3400 had recently in first position, and power position beyond that, which is what you want. However, my MX....is Regen only. Found that out when installing the grapple.

I don't know your level of hydraulic knowledge or mechanical ability, bit I'd look at either a diverter or third function. And install it yourself. I have less than $250 in my diverter, which runs my grapple and plow. Uses the same valve as your loader, you just squeeze a trigger or press a button. IE: in your case....push joystick right, bucket dumps, pull it left, and bucket curls. Squeeze trigger or push button mounter on tour joystick, and push right...plow goes right. Squeeze button and pull left, blow goes left. And you still have curl function.

I don't have a ton of snow plowing experience but I would think to raise and lower the plow, you would just use the up/down function of the joy stick. Would you not just lower the plow to the surface and then put the front loader in the "float" position so it can change and float over the surface your plowing? Seems like you wouldn't want the plow fixed in a specific height when plowing. That would be very hard on your asphalt in low spot i would imagine.

 

[ldowney]

Since I still use the chain on the plow once I set the curl before switching hoses, the plow works just like it did on a truck. Going up and down sets the level of the plow.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff for your input. Sounds like I will have a similar system to yours. One question- once you adjust your curl and switch the hoses out to control the angle of the snow blade, do you put your front end loader in the "float" position so it can float on the ground and change with pavement elevation changes? Seems to me if you lock it in place, if you were to plow a lot area, the plow blade would be locked in that position and do damage to your pavement.

 

[LD1]

I don't have a ton of snow plowing experience but I would think to raise and lower the plow, you would just use the up/down function of the joy stick. Would you not just lower the plow to the surface and then put the front loader in the "float" position so it can change and float over the surface your plowing? Seems like you wouldn't want the plow fixed in a specific height when plowing. That would be very hard on your asphalt in low spot i would imagine.

IF I were to put the loader in float the bottom of the loader arms would be scraping the ground.

I have a truck plow that was converted. So its hanging from a chain, which allows it to float up. If you are gonna run a rigid SSQA type plow, then yes, get the angle of the a-frame set right (curl) then just lower the plow and leave in float.

But with the plow hanging from a chain, I can have the plow on the ground, but with the a-frame pitched downward pretty good, or even upward. And you want the a-frame to remain as close to level as you can. If the a-frame is high back at the pins and low at the plow edge, when you angle, the side of the plow coming back toward the tractor becomes higher and the side going away becomes lower.

So with my setup, and plow hanging from a chain, Its important that I lower the plow to the same position every time. I have no reference for the loader lift. But I do for curl.....the bucket indicator. So once I have lift set to have a nice level a-frame, I curl back to raise, dump to lower the plow. And can go back to the exact same spot everytime.

Here is my setup

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I just called my local dealer again and spoke with someone in service. He confirmed that the L4060 has the 4 stage valve and would work just fine swapping out the curl hoses for the snow plow angle hoses. I will probably just go that route as little of snow that we get here in NC, just doesn't make sense in spending the money on a diverter or a 3rd function. Thanks again for your info.

If you wish to avoid the expense of the third function, I'd pop in a double acting spool valve in the rear. You gain hydraulics for summer activities in the process.

 

[Fallon]

Float on the loader is completely inappropriate for plowing snow. It doubles or more the weight on your plow causing it to dig in way to much. It also unloads your front axle so steering becomes hard. Depending on what you are pushing the front end will come off the ground significantly.

Your plow should have a floating mount, usually a pivot at the bottom & chain at the top. That keeps minimal weight on the plow so it will plow snow & not gravel or pavement.

My old plow setup was more or less the same as LD1s. I welded a quick hitch to a SSQA plate. Pivot where the plow frame mounted & pivoted was the lift hooks & a chain went to near the top hook. It ran off with the old tractor, but I have a new beatup hydraulic angle truck plow to build for the new L4060. Mount will be similar, although probably not using a QH. The only major change I'm looking at is making it more compact so it doesn't hang out so far in front. Probably going to tuck some of the frame under & behind the SSQA mounting plate.

 

[71bronco]

Thanks Jeff for your input. Sounds like I will have a similar system to yours. One question- once you adjust your curl and switch the hoses out to control the angle of the snow blade, do you put your front end loader in the "float" position so it can float on the ground and change with pavement elevation changes? Seems to me if you lock it in place, if you were to plow a lot area, the plow blade would be locked in that position and do damage to your pavement.

The chain lets it follow the contour. Just like on a truck mounted plow.
LD1, when I mounted my plow I put the rear mounting points about 15" behind and under the QA plate so I have no problem seeing it when I lower the plow. I didn't want it sticking out so far, the tractor is already long enough.

 

[ldowney]

Float on the loader is completely inappropriate for plowing snow. It doubles or more the weight on your plow causing it to dig in way to much. It also unloads your front axle so steering becomes hard. Depending on what you are pushing the front end will come off the ground significantly.

Your plow should have a floating mount, usually a pivot at the bottom & chain at the top. That keeps minimal weight on the plow so it will plow snow & not gravel or pavement.

My old plow setup was more or less the same as LD1s. I welded a quick hitch to a SSQA plate. Pivot where the plow frame mounted & pivoted was the lift hooks & a chain went to near the top hook. It ran off with the old tractor, but I have a new beatup hydraulic angle truck plow to build for the new L4060. Mount will be similar, although probably not using a QH. The only major change I'm looking at is making it more compact so it doesn't hang out so far in front. Probably going to tuck some of the frame under & behind the SSQA mounting plate.

I'm not sure we are on the same page about using the float on your front loader. Float would make it lighter not heavier. When you put the bucket in float, it's only as heavy as the plow or bucket. When you leave it out of float and the road or surface dips, you are putting the entire weight of the front of the tractor force on the plow or bucket which would, as you said, unloads the front axles and make steering difficult. Not so in float mode. I think you may have your understanding of "float" backwards.

I've searched several other sites and it seems most use the float method on front end plows that have fixed angles. This way the only pressure that's on the plow is only the actual weight of the plow. Not the entire weight of the tractor.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I'm not sure we are on the same page about using the float on your front loader. Float would make it lighter not heavier. When you put the bucket in float, it's only as heavy as the plow or bucket. When you leave it out of float and the road or surface dips, you are putting the entire weight of the front of the tractor force on the plow or bucket which would, as you said, unloads the front axles and make steering difficult. Not so in float mode. I think you may have your understanding of "float" backwards.

I've searched several other sites and it seems most use the float method on front end plows that have fixed angles. This way the only pressure that's on the plow is only the actual weight of the plow. Not the entire weight of the tractor.

Perhaps you didn't explain it fully? Float puts the entire weight of the loader as well as whatever is attached into floating up and down with the ground independent of the weight of the tractor. Since the plow will move independently of the loader, the loader will drag on the ground when in float mode snowplowing. To snow plow in float mode would require an extra set of pucks to take the load of the loader.

 

[LD1]

The chain lets it follow the contour. Just like on a truck mounted plow.
LD1, when I mounted my plow I put the rear mounting points about 15" behind and under the QA plate so I have no problem seeing it when I lower the plow. I didn't want it sticking out so far, the tractor is already long enough.

Not an option to do that working with what I had. I didn't want to spend the money on a blank ssqa plate. Instead, I used the forklift frame I already had.

As well as it works using the curl and level indicator, I see no room for improvement and no reason to change it from what I have at this point. My arm don't care weather it pushes forward and backward, (loader lift) or left and right (curl) the accomplish the same thing.....Lifting the plow.

 

[LD1]

I'm not sure we are on the same page about using the float on your front loader. Float would make it lighter not heavier. When you put the bucket in float, it's only as heavy as the plow or bucket. When you leave it out of float and the road or surface dips, you are putting the entire weight of the front of the tractor force on the plow or bucket which would, as you said, unloads the front axles and make steering difficult. Not so in float mode. I think you may have your understanding of "float" backwards.

I've searched several other sites and it seems most use the float method on front end plows that have fixed angles. This way the only pressure that's on the plow is only the actual weight of the plow. Not the entire weight of the tractor.

There is a difference in plows.

Look at my pics. ONLY the weight of the plow is on the ground. Dangling from a chain. That's how a chain lift plow works/floats.

With a rigid ssqa plow like you are thinking, the only way to get float, is to float the loader. That puts both the weight of the plow AND the loader arms, all on the plow.