1969 JD 1020 diesel

[PNW1020D]

Hey everyone.

So here is a link to my ongoing thread that essentially gives you some detail as to what I use my tractor for and how much I appreciate her

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/352299-new-young-uneducated-owner-1969-a-5.html

Last weekend I came out to water on the dipstick/milky oil.

I have all the manuals for the 1020 series JD tractors so I removed the injectors, took the valve cover off, took the rocker arm assembly out and push rods, and removed the head from the lower end.

I took the pan off and inspected from below.

Here is my question but I don't have 5K to spend on the tractor at the moment...

How do I go about removing the liners? And is it even necessary? I cannot state for certain that the HG is the cause of the water intrusion.

I do not know if my tractor has ever been updated with the "3 o-ring liners" vs. the conventional single o-ring units so I am leaning on just replacing them.

Thoughts?

Also what does it mean in the manual when it states "make sure the liners are bolted down" before removing the rod bearing caps to push the pistons from the bottoms and out through the top of the block?

I was not planning on removing the crank, is that correct in thinking?

Am I going to have to replace piston rings and rod bearings?

Any thoughts and/or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Zebrafive]

By bolting down the liners, it means put bolts in where the head bolts would go (not sure if washers are required) to keep the liner from raising up when you push the pistons out from the bottom. This is to prevent disturbing the seal of the liner to the block. Use short bolts, not the head bolts.

New liners should come with new pistons and rings fitted to the liners.

 

[Tx Jim]

IIRC washers are required on bolts that are utilized to hold liners in place when removing pistons after cyl head has been removed. It's after the fact "BUT" before cyl head was removed and with crankcase pan removed one should have pressurized the cooling system with a hand pump to determine where internal coolant leak is.

 

[PNW1020D]

****. Well, yea.

Does anyone have a best place to source the parts needed to do this kind of over haul?

I see what is stated as "complete kits" for around 700$ but idk what is complete and isn't.

So as I stand right now,

-buy some short little bolts with washers and place them in the head bolt holes to keep the liners from moving.
-pull the pan off again and unbolt the rod bearing caps from the three pistons.
-Once bolts are removed and caps are off simply push the pistons up and out of the block? (Push how or with what?)
-With the three pistons out of the block, i would remove the hold down bolts for the liners and then go about removing the liners.
What is the best way to accomplish this?

Also, should I replace the injectors?

Just give me all the knowledge y'all can.

 

[Tx Jim]

Be sure to keep each rod brg cap matched with original rod. Liners can be removed with a special liner puller or block of wood with a large hammer or block of wood utilizing a hyd jack. Be sure to clean very well the o-ring groove in engine block.

 

[PNW1020D]

Tx. Jim, please come to western Washington so I can make you dinner!!! :thumbsup:

I will use a 2x and a bottle jack?

So no need to touch the crank?

The injectors look tired....is there a tell tale sign of failure? And god **** they were hard to remove.

I will snap some photos tonight and post them for all to see. Pretty scary looking in there....unfortunately.

 

[jd110]

Since you are removing liners anyway, I wouldn't bother with bolting them down. You don't care about disturbing the seal since you are installing new liners and orings anyway. Usually the liners are pretty tight after years of sludge and rust accumulates. I have had some that wont move by jacking up on them. The whole front of the tractor lifts off the ground at times. The best method is to use a cylinder liner puller, but hopefully they come loose for you. You will definitely need a hardwood 2x. A pine one will surely split before the liner moves. No need to touch the crank if bearing journals are good and removed bearings look good. You can replace main bearings from the bottom by "rolling them in" if desired. The injectors may be just fine. If engine ran well and smooth, chances are good they are usable, but the only real way to know is by having them tested to see if they drip and if cracking pressure is in spec. AND, if they were really tight coming out, they could have gotten slightly bent and will no longer work properly. They aren't terribly expensive, so some people prefer to replace them when doing overhaul.

 

[Tx Jim]

PNW1020D
Thanks for the dinner offer BUT my nerve damage won't allow me to travel near that distance. It appears JD110 has you're questions covered. I'll 2nd on no need for bolts if liners are going to be replaced.
Jim

 

[Zebrafive]

IIRC washers are required on bolts that are utilized to hold liners in place when removing pistons after cyl head has been removed. It's after the fact "BUT" before cyl head was removed and with crankcase pan removed one should have pressurized the cooling system with a hand pump to determine where internal coolant leak is.

Since you are removing liners anyway, I wouldn't bother with bolting them down. You don't care about disturbing the seal since you are installing new liners and orings anyway. Usually the liners are pretty tight after years of sludge and rust accumulates. I have had some that wont move by jacking up on them. The whole front of the tractor lifts off the ground at times. The best method is to use a cylinder liner puller, but hopefully they come loose for you. You will definitely need a hardwood 2x. A pine one will surely split before the liner moves. No need to touch the crank if bearing journals are good and removed bearings look good. You can replace main bearings from the bottom by "rolling them in" if desired. The injectors may be just fine. If engine ran well and smooth, chances are good they are usable, but the only real way to know is by having them tested to see if they drip and if cracking pressure is in spec. AND, if they were really tight coming out, they could have gotten slightly bent and will no longer work properly. They aren't terribly expensive, so some people prefer to replace them when doing overhaul.

PNW1020D
Thanks for the dinner offer BUT my nerve damage won't allow me to travel near that distance. It appears JD110 has you're questions covered. I'll 2nd on no need for bolts if liners are going to be replaced.
Jim

I'll fourth the no need to bolt down the liners, that is only to preserve the liner's seal if you are NOT replacing them.
I'll second just getting new injectors if you are doing the overhaul.

I was thinking same as TxJim about testing first, but no sense closing the gate after the horse got out. So I did not mention it in my first post.

 

[Shaneard]

If it were mine and I was rebuilding the engine I would put new or rebuilt injectors in it. I had a J.D. 2555 and was cultivating corn with it one day just above idle and heard a lot of knocking followed by a skip. Took it to the shop and my brother started cracking injector lines and found out it was number 3 causing the skip. Pulled the injector and the tip had come apart and was embedded in the piston where it beat it up against the head. Needless to say that little non expensive injector cost me a little bit of money. If you can't afford to do it right the first time, you can't afford to do it twice is what I say.

 

[jenkinsph]

If it were me I would install new pistons, rings, liners and injectors. I would have a local machine shop rework the head while I performed the other work.

For all practical uses you should have a new engine.

 

[Zebrafive]

If it were me I would install new pistons, rings, liners and injectors. I would have a local machine shop rework the head while I performed the other work.

For all practical uses you should have a new engine.

The only other thing I would add to this advice is have the injector pump checked/rebuilt at the same time.

 

[PNW1020D]

Thank you everyone for your advice and words of knowledge.

I will have the head re-worked at a local shop and will be buying three new injectors.

As for the injector pump, I didn't even entertain rebuilding it :confused3:

I will try and get photos posted as soon as I can.

I will also be buying the engine rebuilt kit from the link below?

John Deere 1020 Engine Rebuild Kits -

The in-frame kit...or does anyone have a better source?

As for more questions....

How do I press the new liners into the block?

Do I need to remove and clean the oil sump screen?

 

[Tx Jim]

Be sure and take extra care in cleaning o-ring grooves in cyl block. With liquid dish soap applied to o-rings & liners then new liners should slide into place with sometimes requiring a gentle tap with a wooden block. YT is a good place to purchase parts. Need to clean oil sump screen would depend on it's condition. If engine ran good I wouldn't have IP repaired IE if "it ain't broken don't fix it".

 

[PNW1020D]

Thank you Jim,

So how do I get the rod bearing caps off? :ashamed:

Is there something I am missing or do I need to eat more spinach? :confused3:

Also lets say right now, with the crank in its current position, I cannot reach some of the rod bearing cap bolts? Can I rotate the crank and if so what is the best way to do this? I know in a car I just put a socket over the crank pulley bolt?

 

[jd110]

You will need to rotate the crank to access the rod bolts. If you still have the water pump installed, with the head off and no compression, you should be able to grab the fan and turn the crank if belt is tight enough. If not then I usually remove the 2 1/2" plug from the left side of the clutch housing and use a large screwdriver or pry bar on the clutch assembly to bar the engine over. Once the rod bolts are removed, the rod cap has a tongue and groove design that holds cap snugly in place after bolts are loose. I usually use the bolts as a handle of sorts. MMake sure they are threaded all the way out of the rod and only in the cap. then squeeze the bolts together and rock side to side to remove the cap.

 

[Shaneard]

Be sure and mark your pistons and rod caps so they go back in the exact way they come out and are matched with each other accordingly.

 

[PNW1020D]

I literally cannot get the rod cap bolts off???

What is the deal?

Thanks guys!

 

[Shaneard]

If someone has been in it before they may have put loctite on them.

 

[PNW1020D]

I was able to get the first piston's rod cap bolts off and removed the bearing halves.

I started to push from below on the rod with just my hands to extract the piston from the block.

I have pushed it far enough that the piston ring is exposed but I cannot get the piston to come out.

What am I missing?

Do I need a specific tool to pull out the piston like I do with the cylinder liners?

Thanks everyone!!!