Loader L series joystick FEL control

[RNeumann]

Anyone converted/moved the L series loader control from the loader to the fender? I assume the easiest way to do this would be to use a cable controlled joystick but beyond that I have found very little.

Thank you

 

[varmint]

Okay, I am curious why you would want to do that, considering the potential hassles in a cable rigged setup. Or, extend the hoses, and move the valve to the fender??

 

[WileyG]

The joystick on L series with a cab is mounted on the fender so I would think that you could order that setup and just replace what you have.

 

[RNeumann]

Thx WileyG. Good point, I will call the dealer and inquire. As for the reason- I like a seat with armrests and moving the control to the fender would make things a little more ergonomic- arm on armrest controlling loader.

 

[RNeumann]

I should have been more clear- the Kubota is an L3301 and not offered with a cab. The dealer was no help. Anyone else ever done this?

 

[teg]

...Anyone else ever done this?

No but would be interested in what seat with arm rest you are going to use. Instead of moving the loader control, have you thought about extending the joystick? (and before you ask, I have not heard of that, either). would be an interesting project...

 

[RNeumann]

Extending the existing joystick wasn't something I want to do as the longer the lever the farther I have to move it. I found a few items from Prince Hydraulics that could work together but can find very little info so far.

 

[LD1]

Is it strictly ergonomics why you want to relocate?

I have had an L3400, and now my MX both with loader valves in the same spot. Never noticed it being an issue. My Ford 5500 is by the fender. I dont notice any benefits to one over the other.

 

[Grandad4]

While much of the 2,000 or so hours on my Kubotas was racked up mowing, there have been hundreds of hours of loader operation also, during which I never gave the loader control a second thought. Maybe it's from years of operating trucks and cars with stick shifts on the floor... your right hand gets pretty used to running some kind of control out there so it's no big deal having the FEL handle set up like that. Well, it's a theory at least. Some of the old-timers I grew up with, who hand-cranked their tractors to start the engine, would probably get a chuckle.

 

[varmint]

In using our L3400, since your right hand is probably on the steering wheel or throttle, anyway, moving it a bit over to the joystick seems natural. I have thought about shortening the lever, but so far, haven't gotten around to messing with it. Leverage isn't a problem.

 

[LD1]

In using our L3400, since your right hand is probably on the steering wheel or throttle, anyway, moving it a bit over to the joystick seems natural. I have thought about shortening the lever, but so far, haven't gotten around to messing with it. Leverage isn't a problem.

I had shortened the stick on my L3400 by ~4". Makes it so much easier getting on and off that side.

 

[teg]

I think I shorten mine by half? 8" (it might have been 6", hate getting old). "feathering" takes a lot more concentration - luckily, I'm more of a quick dump, kind of guy.

Before shot and After shot...

{now I need to shorten my 3ph lever }

 

[Blondie70]

I like that shortened control. How did you do it ? Also...my book says to lubricate the control...how the heck does one lubricate this thing ? Thanks

 

[teg]

I lubricate lots of things on the tractor, in 10+ years, I've never lubed the FEL controls... will wait to hear from others(?).

If I remember correctly, the knob just pulls off... hacksaw to length (I would not go as far as I did, you can always cut more later, hard to put it back on after it's cut too short!!!)

 

[LD1]

Maybe I cut more than 4" off. Cause mine was about as short as yours.

My Mx...I shortened a bit and threaded for the grapple joystick, which angles up and out of the way. So no obstruction getting on and off, and still have nice leverage to feather the control.

If I had to do over again, I'd probably just bend it up a bit instead of cutting.

If you decide to cut, yes the rubber knob just pulls off.

As to lube....just a spray lube. Wd-40, chain lube, silicone lube, 3-in-1 oil, etc. Just lube the moving stuff under the rubber boot. All the little pivots and what not

 

[RNeumann]

Somehow a thread about moving the FEL control closer to the seat has turned into a thread about moving it farther away! Enjoy!

 

[teg]

Somehow a thread about moving the FEL control closer to the seat has turned into a thread about moving it farther away! Enjoy!

Sorry about that :duh:

Lets get back on track... you looking for something like a Grand L for "little more ergonomic- arm on armrest controlling loader" Like this:
View attachment 479230

Kubota makes it, but just not for the Economic Standard Tractor series. Could you but the parts and make it work, most likely... but I'm sure you'll like all the other bells and whistles that come (at a price) with the Grand L tractors. Why don't you trade up? :2cents:

{Photo above is from Craig's List, 900 hours for $17500}

 

[rbargeron]

Fender (or armrest) mounted loader controls for older tractors need to be built case-by-case. The type and mounting of the control valve is the tricky part. It can be crowded under the fender/floorboard and every tractor is different - probably the reason there are few if any after market "kits" being offered.

For the loader to remain removable, cab tractors with loaders have always needed a different "parting line". Either the valve has to stick through a hole in the front glass, or needs to be fender or post mounted with disconnects. Most cabs use a fender mounted joystick, push-pull cables to a valve under the running board, with quick connectors for the loader hoses. There have been dozens of designs.

With the introduction of Lxx40 machines, Kubota's loader control valve is now part of the central hydraulic control unit on the transmission. Whether cab or open-station, the loader control is now on the fender. All tractors have the built-in valve - whether a loader is ordered or not. This allows a compact layout, with fewer parts, variations, and cost. When a loader is installed, four pipes are added to bring the connectors forward.

One casualty of the new approach is the tradition hydraulic block where "power beyond" hydraulic flow could be easily tapped. Factory remotes used to be expensive - but now they are really expensive

 

[RNeumann]

The L series I have does not have a cab option and my local dealer could find very little. The other thing I found was the Prince Hydraulics cable actuated I asked about above.

I did call Curtis Cabs and was told (by a sales man) that the cab fits around the existing loader control and they have no experience moving the controls. So that was no help either.

"teg" I could do either a floor mount that comes up by the seat or the actual fender mount.

To clarify why- I have a rugged, rocky and heavily treed property. I am constantly off camber and bouncing around. Anything I can do to stay planted in the seat is my goal- which is why I thought about this project.

Should I ask about this in the hydraulics forum?

 

[rbargeron]

When I was looking to relocate my FEL control, there were few good options. You might get some ideas looking at pages like this