Loader L series joystick FEL control
- Thread starter RNeumann
- Start date
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I think I shorten mine by half? 8" (it might have been 6", hate getting old). "feathering" takes a lot more concentration - luckily, I'm more of a quick dump, kind of guy.
Before shot and After shot...
{now I need to shorten my 3ph lever
}
Before shot and After shot...
{now I need to shorten my 3ph lever
}Blondie70
Silver Member
I like that shortened control. How did you do it ? Also...my book says to lubricate the control...how the heck does one lubricate this thing ? Thanks
I lubricate lots of things on the tractor, in 10+ years, I've never lubed the FEL controls... will wait to hear from others(?).
If I remember correctly, the knob just pulls off... hacksaw to length (I would not go as far as I did, you can always cut more later, hard to put it back on after it's cut too short!!!)
If I remember correctly, the knob just pulls off... hacksaw to length (I would not go as far as I did, you can always cut more later, hard to put it back on after it's cut too short!!!)
LD1
Epic Contributor
Maybe I cut more than 4" off. Cause mine was about as short as yours.
My Mx...I shortened a bit and threaded for the grapple joystick, which angles up and out of the way. So no obstruction getting on and off, and still have nice leverage to feather the control.
If I had to do over again, I'd probably just bend it up a bit instead of cutting.
If you decide to cut, yes the rubber knob just pulls off.
As to lube....just a spray lube. Wd-40, chain lube, silicone lube, 3-in-1 oil, etc. Just lube the moving stuff under the rubber boot. All the little pivots and what not
My Mx...I shortened a bit and threaded for the grapple joystick, which angles up and out of the way. So no obstruction getting on and off, and still have nice leverage to feather the control.
If I had to do over again, I'd probably just bend it up a bit instead of cutting.
If you decide to cut, yes the rubber knob just pulls off.
As to lube....just a spray lube. Wd-40, chain lube, silicone lube, 3-in-1 oil, etc. Just lube the moving stuff under the rubber boot. All the little pivots and what not
OP
RNeumann
Elite Member
Somehow a thread about moving the FEL control closer to the seat has turned into a thread about moving it farther away! Enjoy! 
Sorry about that :duh:Somehow a thread about moving the FEL control closer to the seat has turned into a thread about moving it farther away! Enjoy!
Lets get back on track... you looking for something like a Grand L for "little more ergonomic- arm on armrest controlling loader" Like this:
View attachment 479230
Kubota makes it, but just not for the Economic Standard Tractor series. Could you but the parts and make it work, most likely... but I'm sure you'll like all the other bells and whistles that come (at a price) with the Grand L tractors. Why don't you trade up? :2cents:
{Photo above is from Craig's List, 900 hours for $17500}
rbargeron
Elite Member
Fender (or armrest) mounted loader controls for older tractors need to be built case-by-case. The type and mounting of the control valve is the tricky part. It can be crowded under the fender/floorboard and every tractor is different - probably the reason there are few if any after market "kits" being offered.
For the loader to remain removable, cab tractors with loaders have always needed a different "parting line". Either the valve has to stick through a hole in the front glass, or needs to be fender or post mounted with disconnects. Most cabs use a fender mounted joystick, push-pull cables to a valve under the running board, with quick connectors for the loader hoses. There have been dozens of designs.
With the introduction of Lxx40 machines, Kubota's loader control valve is now part of the central hydraulic control unit on the transmission. Whether cab or open-station, the loader control is now on the fender. All tractors have the built-in valve - whether a loader is ordered or not. This allows a compact layout, with fewer parts, variations, and cost. When a loader is installed, four pipes are added to bring the connectors forward.
One casualty of the new approach is the tradition hydraulic block where "power beyond" hydraulic flow could be easily tapped. Factory remotes used to be expensive - but now they are really expensive
For the loader to remain removable, cab tractors with loaders have always needed a different "parting line". Either the valve has to stick through a hole in the front glass, or needs to be fender or post mounted with disconnects. Most cabs use a fender mounted joystick, push-pull cables to a valve under the running board, with quick connectors for the loader hoses. There have been dozens of designs.
With the introduction of Lxx40 machines, Kubota's loader control valve is now part of the central hydraulic control unit on the transmission. Whether cab or open-station, the loader control is now on the fender. All tractors have the built-in valve - whether a loader is ordered or not. This allows a compact layout, with fewer parts, variations, and cost. When a loader is installed, four pipes are added to bring the connectors forward.
One casualty of the new approach is the tradition hydraulic block where "power beyond" hydraulic flow could be easily tapped. Factory remotes used to be expensive - but now they are really expensive
Last edited:
OP
RNeumann
Elite Member
The L series I have does not have a cab option and my local dealer could find very little. The other thing I found was the Prince Hydraulics cable actuated I asked about above.
I did call Curtis Cabs and was told (by a sales man) that the cab fits around the existing loader control and they have no experience moving the controls. So that was no help either.
"teg" I could do either a floor mount that comes up by the seat or the actual fender mount.
To clarify why- I have a rugged, rocky and heavily treed property. I am constantly off camber and bouncing around. Anything I can do to stay planted in the seat is my goal- which is why I thought about this project.
Should I ask about this in the hydraulics forum?
I did call Curtis Cabs and was told (by a sales man) that the cab fits around the existing loader control and they have no experience moving the controls. So that was no help either.
"teg" I could do either a floor mount that comes up by the seat or the actual fender mount.
To clarify why- I have a rugged, rocky and heavily treed property. I am constantly off camber and bouncing around. Anything I can do to stay planted in the seat is my goal- which is why I thought about this project.
Should I ask about this in the hydraulics forum?
rbargeron
Elite Member
When I was looking to relocate my FEL control, there were few good options. You might get some ideas looking at pages like this