New EA Land Plane(LPGS)

[EverythingAttachments]

Here's a sneak peek at the new Land Shark land leveler with ripper shanks, which will be offered in 48", 60" and 72" widths.
It is made in our factory and outfitted with US Made cutting edges and ripper shanks.

This one isn't as robust as our current models, which have fully welded, category 1-2 combination hitches, but it's really plenty for most compact tractors.

Comments and questions are welcome!
Travis

 

[bdog]

I wonder how well the scarifiers work. My LPGS is a seven foot heavy duty model and without scarifiers it digs in more than I would like. With 100hp on a tracked machine it will dang near bring me to a stop in the right conditions.

 

[crazyal]

How much does it weigh? I find the rippers need a lot of force when my driveway hasn't had rain for a few weeks. In mid to late summer it can get packed hard enough so I really can't do anything to the driveway.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

I wonder how well the scarifiers work. My LPGS is a seven foot heavy duty model and without scarifiers it digs in more than I would like. With 100hp on a tracked machine it will dang near bring me to a stop in the right conditions.

The scarifiers really add versatility, so I've heard.

Can anyone who has used both share some thoughts?
Travis

 

[EverythingAttachments]

How much does it weigh? I find the rippers need a lot of force when my driveway hasn't had rain for a few weeks. In mid to late summer it can get packed hard enough so I really can't do anything to the driveway.

The weight ranges from just over 400 for the 48" to just under 600 for the 72".

These models really are ideal for small/mid size compact tractors. Those who prefer more weight and more aggressive cutting edge angles will choose our EA Land Leveler. Customers have really raved about the awesome job it does!
Travis

 

[budepps3760]

I will be constructing a new road to house we will be building on our land and maybe someone can clear up confusion I have concerning use of this attachment. I understood that you would want a road that was high in the center to drain water off the road instead of a flat road. If that is the case why would you want to level the road? Seems this would create standing water on road and this more likely to create ruts and holes in road. [SUP][/SUP]

 

[bcp]

People often use the terms "flat" and "level" as synonyms. A common wall is "flat," but a floor is both "flat" and "level."

On a crowned road, each side is flat, but not level. Your LPGS should ideally be the width of half your road. It makes one side flat, then the other side. Don't run it down the middle.

Many roads and driveways aren't crowned, but sloped one way all the way across. OK to run the LPGS on the sides and center.

What you want to avoid on a graded road is flat and level.

Bruce

 

[CADplans]

This one isn't as robust as our current models, which have fully welded, category 1-2 combination hitches, but it's really plenty for most compact tractors.
Comments and questions are welcome!
Travis

Why would you go backward??
I thought the goal was to make the next generation stronger, better, and more capable!!??

I want one that is stronger, better, and more capable than your current offerings,,, :thumbsup:

 

[Fallon]

Why would you go backward??
I thought the goal was to make the next generation stronger, better, and more capable!!??

I want one that is stronger, better, and more capable than your current offerings,,, :thumbsup:

Price. Some people need economy tools rather than premium ones.

 

[Fallon]

I will be constructing a new road to house we will be building on our land and maybe someone can clear up confusion I have concerning use of this attachment. I understood that you would want a road that was high in the center to drain water off the road instead of a flat road. If that is the case why would you want to level the road? Seems this would create standing water on road and this more likely to create ruts and holes in road. [SUP][/SUP]

It depends on how you define level. Level can mean many things... lateral level (with or without crown), level as in taking out a hill, or level as in smooth by getting rid of ruts & potholes.

You can adjust your side links on the 3pt so your land leveler is leveling things relative to the implement & build a crown rather than level to the bubble in a level.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Why would you go backward??
I thought the goal was to make the next generation stronger, better, and more capable!!??

I want one that is stronger, better, and more capable than your current offerings,,, :thumbsup:

I don't see it as going backwards. We are broadening our offerings and filling holes(no pun ) in our lineup. These are more for ideal for smaller tractors and customers who do not need the extra HD models with solid welded category 1&2 combination hitches.

Price is also a factor, but quality is always at the top of our priorities, which is why we put premium, US Made ripper shanks and cutting edges on everything. The steel in our factory is a minimum of A572. Ted does not allow A36 through the doors!
Travis

 

[CCWKen]

I just wish you guys lived closer. I'm outside the 1000-mile family circle.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

I just wish you guys lived closer. I'm outside the 1000-mile family circle.

We have as many customers in Texas as any other state, so don't be discouraged. People on the left coast are even amazed at our great freight rates!

We do not have an online calculator because we like to personally figure it so you're sure to get the cheapest rate possible, so feel free to give us a call or send an email anytime! Our sales team does not receive a sales based commission. We know our product well, but we are far from high pressure!
Travis

 

[biodegraded]

A short story. I really wanted a wicked root grapple. There is simply so far no comparison offering with the strength vs weight. Someone actually *engineered* the thing instead of simply weld plates of whatever steel was lying around together. Trouble is, I live 45 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Just a wee bit out of their range. I almost didn't ask them for a quote, but am glad I did. Travis came back within an hour for a shipping quote of $92. Ninety-two bucks to ship that thing 2700 miles. The rest is history, so to speak. I absolutely love the grapple which sees hard use, but also of note is that shipping even out here need not be prohibitive. YMMV.

 

[bdog]

Regarding the level road if you want a crown adjust your three point so that the left side is higher than the right. Drive down the road (with a unit half the width of the road) on the right side and when you get to the end drive back on the right side again. You will end up with a crown.

 

[Tomtint]

The scarifiers really add versatility, so I've heard.

Can anyone who has used both share some thoughts?
Travis

I have a BEFCO version. The rippers make a big difference getting rid of pot holes. Also the 2nd angle blade is a must for final smoothing the surface. .02

 

[NHbotanut]

I have the Land Pride version. I only use the rippers when the driveway is extremely hard packed. I have never come close to using them in their full extension. A couple of passes with the rippers & then I put them up as the plane does the rest.

 

[CCWKen]

I don't dare touch my drive when it's dry. Anything I loosen up will end up in the culverts or at the bottom of the hill on the first rain. I do repairs two or three days after a rain while the sandy-clay is damp and will repack. For this reason, I'm torn between a box blade and a land plane. I typically need to move quite a bit of dirt around. I've been using a small dozer (JD-420C) to repair the culverts and wash-outs every year. Sometimes 2-3 times a year. My problem is it's hard to get a smooth road even when back-dragging the blade on float since the clay packs so easily. I end up with a rolling washboard surface. I try to work across the road and at a diagonal to get the highs and lows even but it takes a week or more to do the whole drive. By that time, I'm moving around powder. I don't have to way to wet it down again so if a hard rain comes, it's gone. If I get it smooth and packed while it's damp, it hardens like concrete. This is why I thought a land plane would work better. But I don't think it will get the ripples/waves out unless it's extra long.

It's not a steep slope--About a 10-12' drop over the 1300'. There's a few curves in the road that I contoured the culverts to route the water away from the road and into the property. I have to work these too as they fill with silt.

So, box blade, land plane or both? Perhaps neither and build a water tank sprayer. The work is taking it's toll on the old JD dozer so I'd like to be able to use a tractor for the work.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

A short story. I really wanted a wicked root grapple. There is simply so far no comparison offering with the strength vs weight. Someone actually *engineered* the thing instead of simply weld plates of whatever steel was lying around together. Trouble is, I live 45 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Just a wee bit out of their range. I almost didn't ask them for a quote, but am glad I did. Travis came back within an hour for a shipping quote of $92. Ninety-two bucks to ship that thing 2700 miles. The rest is history, so to speak. I absolutely love the grapple which sees hard use, but also of note is that shipping even out here need not be prohibitive. YMMV.

Great story! That's what I'm talkin about!
Travis

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I don't dare touch my drive when it's dry. Anything I loosen up will end up in the culverts or at the bottom of the hill on the first rain. I do repairs two or three days after a rain while the sandy-clay is damp and will repack. For this reason, I'm torn between a box blade and a land plane. I typically need to move quite a bit of dirt around. I've been using a small dozer (JD-420C) to repair the culverts and wash-outs every year. Sometimes 2-3 times a year. My problem is it's hard to get a smooth road even when back-dragging the blade on float since the clay packs so easily. I end up with a rolling washboard surface. I try to work across the road and at a diagonal to get the highs and lows even but it takes a week or more to do the whole drive. By that time, I'm moving around powder. I don't have to way to wet it down again so if a hard rain comes, it's gone. If I get it smooth and packed while it's damp, it hardens like concrete. This is why I thought a land plane would work better. But I don't think it will get the ripples/waves out unless it's extra long.

It's not a steep slope--About a 10-12' drop over the 1300'. There's a few curves in the road that I contoured the culverts to route the water away from the road and into the property. I have to work these too as they fill with silt.

So, box blade, land plane or both? Perhaps neither and build a water tank sprayer. The work is taking it's toll on the old JD dozer so I'd like to be able to use a tractor for the work.

You may need both, but without any doubt in my mind, get a LPGS to start with. Next thing, if you want it to work the best that it can, it needs to weigh over 150lbs per foot width. Pretty tough to find other than a Road Boss unit, but they are quite costly. I have 2 units myself, a 5 footer that weighs 800lbs and a 7 footer that weighs 1400lbs. They both work very well. No rippers, haven't ever needed them, but that may just be my conditions.