CK30 Auto Shut Off

1965 · Apr 24, 2016

I have found that when I turn to the left to look at the rear of my CK 30 my right knee tends to hit the key just in the right spot to shut it down. I have a rocker HST foot pedal so I have the seat up a bit to be comfortable on the pedal....short legs

. I am thinking of putting a shield on the right side of the key or even cutting the key down to make it less of a target. Anyone else tackle this minor issue?

JohnMacca · Apr 25, 2016

I broke one of the original keys on my CK35 after about the third time I hit it with my knee and then straightened it up.

The location of the key is really my only complaint about the tractor - it's a simple design issue that could have been done better.

I used the spare key to get a copy cut and then ground down the copy so as to leave only a small (half inch) "lever" to turn the key. I place the key in the lock so that this lever is vertical.

It seems to be working because I haven't hit it hard enough yet to bend it - or gouge a hole in my knee.:laughing:

MX Dad · Apr 25, 2016

I've done the same thing many times on my CK 25. It is in a bad spot. I think thats a good idea to shave/cut the key. I'm gonna do that to mine now that you mention it. I'm gonna try to keep the end soft so I dont puncture my knee. If not done right, it could make it worse. But then again, a new key isnt gonna break the bank so I wouldnt be afraid to experiment with it.

N2DFire · Apr 26, 2016

JohnMacca said:
I broke one of the original keys on my CK35 after about the third time I hit it with my knee and then straightened it up.

The location of the key is really my only complaint about the tractor - it's a simple design issue that could have been done better.

I used the spare key to get a copy cut and then ground down the copy so as to leave only a small (half inch) "lever" to turn the key. I place the key in the lock so that this lever is vertical.

It seems to be working because I haven't hit it hard enough yet to bend it - or gouge a hole in my knee.:laughing:

My father is about a half a foot taller than me & he has done this as well (haven't broken the key yet)

I like your solution & it reminded me that Dad had a motorcycle that the hard side saddle bags required you to put the key in to open every time. This can sometimes be a major PITA so he had 2 keys made, cut the heads down and used knurled knobs (the kind designed to be held on w/ a set screw) and cut a slot in them for the key shaft to fit in & tightened the set screw.

He then just put one in each lock and left it there. I may have to do this w/ a tractor key.

1965 · Apr 26, 2016

I like the idea of adding a knob type thingamajig to it, less likely to turn it off. I am going to get a couple copies made rather than use my originals and find/make a dome shaped knob and epoxy that to the key so my knee will just glance off rather than turn or dig in.

K man · Apr 29, 2016

So far no issues with hitting the key yet. I have short legs too.

jimmyj · May 4, 2016

I do this all the time. I'm thinking of taking my leg off.

MX Dad · May 4, 2016

It would be nice if the key had a hinge on it. I have a key like that for one of my tool boxes. I may look around and see if I can find a blank key with a hinge and get one cut. Jimmy, you might want to keep the leg, it might come in handy. Although, you would swear I hate my fingers, I am always beating them up!

barko1 · May 4, 2016

On my 2510 my knee manages to turn the lights on.

TJP89 · May 5, 2016

My CK has a nasty habit of shutting off on its on whenever I hit a large bump, especially at high speed. Haven't figured out how to avoid it. Also, when I'm turned around to look over the back, the flashers usually turn off on their own too. That switch really should be moved. The worst is when I turn real far around and start wonder why the front of the tractor is lifting. Then turn back around and realize my knee hit the loader and I was digging up the driveway.

I think all tractors have things like this. The loader stick is actually perfectly placed for normal operation, so I shouldn't complain. However, how much would adding a step to the right side really add to the overall cost? I've almost fallen flat on my face a couple times looking for a step that wasn't there.

1965 · May 5, 2016

Mine has a step on both sides, I sometimes turn the lights on or off with my knee as well but that isn't as big an issue as shutting everything down while bush hogging.

jabelding · May 5, 2016

I had the same step problem with mine so I ordered one from the dealer, only cost $50 only problem the new one is the frame dark gray and not the orange.

MX Dad · May 5, 2016

Mine also has steps on each side. I guess if thats all I have to complain about is the key switch, thats a good thing. I will find a solution for sure. My only other minor complaint is the height of the FEL lever. That thing has snagged my shorts and shirt many times to the point where I almost fell. And I have torn about many a shirts so far. But, I have mine at the dealer right now and I asked them to shorten the lever so I hope that resolves that issue. All in all, minor stuff.

1965 · May 29, 2016

I got an extra couple keys from the dealer and modified one to make it more of a low profile. I cut it off short and filed the chrome off the brass and soldered it into a short copper 12 gauge shell. I deactivated the primer before heating it up or I could have just fired it off. Less of a target for my knee and looks good to boot.

N2DFire · May 31, 2016

1965 said:
I got an extra couple keys from the dealer and modified one to make it more of a low profile. I cut it off short and filed the chrome off the brass and soldered it into a short copper 12 gauge shell. I deactivated the primer before heating it up or I could have just fired it off. Less of a target for my knee and looks good to boot.
View attachment 470191

Pretty slick looking fix.

Up until this weekend I had been lucky but I have been doing a lot of land grading, leveling, root raking and I spent a lot of time sideways in the seat looking back and I managed to do the Knee bump shut-down too. Freaked me out for a bit b/c I had just said I was getting low on fuel & was going to stop & re-fill.

I totally had a panic moment thinking I had run it dry or something.

Guess I'll have to add this to my project list now too.

1965 · May 31, 2016

I cut the shell off about 1/2 an inch up from the brass and pulled the wad out and dumped out the powder. Then I gently taped the primer out with a flat punch and secured it in the vice and with a fine tooth hacksaw and a cloth over it (to block potential shrapnel in case it went off) I slowly cut (not to create any heat) the primer off, about in half and dug the powder out with a small screw driver. I then heated up the brass with a torch until the plastic started melting and then pulled it out of the brass with pliers. I then tapped the primer back in and sanded the inside well with steel wool until it was shiny. I cut and filed the key as I said and tinned the exposed brass with flux and solder. I fluxed the inside of the shell and placed the shell brass over the vice opened enough to heat the bottom and melted solder into it until it was full and then held the key into it until it cooled and hardened, a few seconds. My son gave me some mortar casings which are way cool but too big for this job...maybe the new loader control knob?

MX Dad · May 31, 2016

Sounds like a delicate surgery. I would probably accidentally set it off, blow my hand off, set a fire.................... the list goes on. What about a spent cartridge? Would that work?

1965 · Jun 1, 2016

MX Dad said:
Sounds like a delicate surgery. I would probably accidentally set it off, blow my hand off, set a fire.................... the list goes on. What about a spent cartridge? Would that work?

It would work just fine, just have a small dent in the primer. But you would likely still have to punch it out and cut it in half as the primer sticks up fairly high in the shell casing and doesn't leave much room to embed the key. I placed the key in the ignition and marked how far it went in with a fine point sharpie and added about a 1/4 inch for embedding into the solder.