Chipper pto driven wood chippers

[Aquamoose]

5030,

Close, it's a MS250 w/ a 16" bar. My other chainsaw is a Husky Rancher 260 w/ a 24" bar. Both have aggressive chains (no kickback protection feature). I'll keep that in mind about the handle. With the scabbard, the saw should either be sheathed or in my hands.

You must have a 50+ hp tractor. Mine's only a 35 hp and it seems to be just right for it.

 

[5030]

5030,

Close, it's a MS250 w/ a 16" bar. My other chainsaw is a Husky Rancher 260 w/ a 24" bar. Both have aggressive chains (no kickback protection feature). I'll keep that in mind about the handle. With the scabbard, the saw should either be sheathed or in my hands.

You must have a 50+ hp tractor. Mine's only a 35 hp and it seems to be just right for it.

I have mine on a 90 pto output Kubota, way, way more than it needs to operate. I'm always cautious about inputting too much power, in fact, I run the pto at half speed most of the time. To get added air to the flywheel / fan at reduced RPM, I opened up the knife bolt access plate so it sucks in more air. That seems to work well. I clog it rarely and usually the clog is at the transition of the flywheel housing and the chute so it's easy to unclog.

For a 'Onehunglow' chipper it's not bad.....:laughing:

 

[Aquamoose]

You should run it at 540. I believe it was designed to run at that speed so that the chips gets ejected properly. Doesn't yours have torque protection? Mine does on my PTP shaft and it broke twice from revving it too quickly.

 

[5030]

You should run it at 540. I believe it was designed to run at that speed so that the chips gets ejected properly. Doesn't yours have torque protection? Mine does on my PTP shaft and it broke twice from revving it too quickly.

Why? So long as there is sufficent air flow (by modifying the intake of air) flywheel speed is irrevelant. The infeed rollers control the feed rate, not the flywheel speed. I can see running at 540 with marginal horsepower but I have 3 times input power, no need. I do run a weasler slip clutch to insure that I don't destroy the driveline (on the chipper). been running at half speed for years now with no issues.

I bring mine up from idle slowly, all the time. Why shock load the chipper or the pto with a slam in at speed. Makes no sense.

 

[Aquamoose]

I guess what works for you will,... work. It's not the feed rate, but the flywheel. My thinking is wouldn't it be more efficient to use inertia to your benefit at 540 than to sacrifice some to straight power? Kind of like jump starting a car with a dead battery, you let the "business end" do the work (charged battery / flywheel) than relying too much on the transfer of power ((cables / PTO shaft). I'm no engineer and I could be way off but it's what I understand how the chipper functions.

The first time, I engaged my electronic pto at higher revs and I erred. Second was revving it up too quickly. Of course, it makes no sense to shock it. Like you, I engage at the slowest engine speed and rev it up slowly.

 

[brown40]

Sometimes the manufacturer wants you to engage at higher RPM's... for using the rotary cutter on my machine the manual directs to engage around 1500... there a 175 pound flywheel to get turning on the chipper, but relatively little resistance. I suppose for smaller machines heavy drivelines/flywheels present the possibility of lugging the motor at idle. My knockoff machine needs to be near rated speed for wet conifers to reliably clear the chute, but can blow drier/harder/less sticky material at lower speeds. Doesn't need to be said, but eye, hand and hearing protection are not really not optional using a chipper. Super loud, super dirty, super dangerous--PPE is a must.

 

[KenB2920]

Just my .02

After using a chipper for numerous hours in a day a couple days in a row, get one with some type of feed. I am not familiar with the mentioned mechanical feed brought up in the first page nor have I looked it up. If your budget allows, get hydraulic feed or look into that mechanical feed. I can tell you manually putting tree limbs gets old real fast leaving you sore. To be able to just toss in and walk away would be fantastic !!! Again, budget can be an issue but but worth it in time and health.

Sorry, I missed a couple pages here but after page one and two I wanted to add my experience. If this is a long term investment, do it right. Research, purchase and move forward.

 

[TerryR]

After using a chipper for numerous hours in a day a couple days in a row, get one with some type of feed. I am not familiar with the mentioned mechanical feed brought up in the first page nor have I looked it up. If your budget allows, get hydraulic feed or look into that mechanical feed. I can tell you manually putting tree limbs gets old real fast leaving you sore. To be able to just toss in and walk away would be fantastic !!!

If you are having that much issue with manual feed the issue is likely that the blades need sharpening. With my chipper when the blades are sharp anything without a stiff crotch self feeds. The main issue is putting something too tough in and having to jerk it out to keep from stalling.

 

[KenB2920]

If you are having that much issue with manual feed the issue is likely that the blades need sharpening. With my chipper when the blades are sharp anything without a stiff crotch self feeds. The main issue is putting something too tough in and having to jerk it out to keep from stalling.

I'm sure that's part of the case, but either way, now knowing what I know through experience, I would spring for hydro feed

 

[TerryR]

I'm sure that's part of the case, but either way, now knowing what I know through experience, I would spring for hydro feed

We'll have to disagree on that one. After using my manual feed chipper for over 10 years I can't see the point in power feed for homeowner use. For professionals with heavy usage, sure. But not for occasional use. It's not needed in my view, costs more, and provides more moving parts to fail.

 

[KenB2920]

We'll have to disagree on that one. After using my manual feed chipper for over 10 years I can't see the point in power feed for homeowner use. For professionals with heavy usage, sure. But not for occasional use. It's not needed in my view, costs more, and provides more moving parts to fail.

Lol, I guess we differ in opinion. Just thinking of tens years of use how much it would save my body is worth a few hundred bucks in itself.

Maybe your occasional use and mine would be different. Plus, I WOULD take it to some jobs.

Couple hundred bucks for time saved and ease of use, No brainer ....

 

[bob11x]

Eric - I cannot wait for your review of the 9900. They look like a winner but I would like some real world input. Please let us know!!

 

[KenB2920]

Eric - I cannot wait for your review of the 9900. They look like a winner but I would like some real world input. Please let us know!!

I am very curious too!!! Seems like a sweet machine

Comparing the WM-8h to 9900

10pound more overall
20 pound heavier flywheel
1.75" bigger intake wheel
1" bigger throat

.... Board feet is the same 0-75' per minute
Requires 6 more hp minimum to run

$2k more in price. Some parts are bigger on spec sheet but overall only weights 10 more pounds why to me would mean they cut somewhere else? I can't imagine this.

Either way they both look sweet. Anyone know how many hours these are rated for?

 

[5030]

I guess what works for you will,... work. It's not the feed rate, but the flywheel. My thinking is wouldn't it be more efficient to use inertia to your benefit at 540 than to sacrifice some to straight power? Kind of like jump starting a car with a dead battery, you let the "business end" do the work (charged battery / flywheel) than relying too much on the transfer of power ((cables / PTO shaft). I'm no engineer and I could be way off but it's what I understand how the chipper functions.

The first time, I engaged my electronic pto at higher revs and I erred. Second was revving it up too quickly. Of course, it makes no sense to shock it. Like you, I engage at the slowest engine speed and rev it up slowly.

Lets see, I would presume you have 35 horses and probably about 45 pounds feet of torque (which is really what imparts the driving force to the flywheel. I have 90 ponies and about 210 pounds feet of driving force so no need in running at 540 pro speed and wasting diesel when around 300 rpm pto is plenty for air flow and ejection. Now if I stuff in an 8" diameter log, I'll bump it up to 540 just for the mass factor but then my knives are always razor sharp and ground at the proper angle too. Sharp knives and grind angle are what counts, not flywheel rpm, so long as there is sufficient rpm for air movement and chip ejection.

 

[Gordon Gould]

We'll have to disagree on that one. After using my manual feed chipper for over 10 years I can't see the point in power feed for homeowner use. For professionals with heavy usage, sure. But not for occasional use. It's not needed in my view, costs more, and provides more moving parts to fail.

I have to agree with Terry on this. I also have a Bear Cat with a blower. It is manual feed but it actually feeds itself. Put in the branches, logs, or whatever and they get pulled right in as long as it will fit in the shute. Sure, something like a whole Christmas tree needs a little help because you have to force it into the shute if you don't just go down the truck with a chain saw.

gg

 

[CalG]

I run he chipper off the 1000 rpm PTO and throtte back. full tractor HP into this garden chipper would/could tear things up.

Completely aggressive self feeding on large solid stuff, and less so as the knives and counter knife loose their crispness.
Anyone who "always has razor sharp knives" either isn't working the machine much, or sharpens for a hobby. I get no more than 20 hours before the edges go dull. For a garden chipper, that's a lot of time

 

[KenB2920]

I have to agree with Terry on this. I also have a Bear Cat with a blower. It is manual feed but it actually feeds itself. Put in the branches, logs, or whatever and they get pulled right in as long as it will fit in the shute. Sure, something like a whole Christmas tree needs a little help because you have to force it into the shute if you don't just go down the truck with a chain saw. gg

Well, I guess that's why we get to disagree. This guy won't be using manual feed.. Lol

It's to the fire pit for now or if needed again it will be hydro all the way.

I had a small stand alone years ago ... Had it for real occasional use and it was fine but knowing what I know now, it was a joke using anything of the sort. Maybe I'm just more than an occasional user.





Fire or hydro for me.

 

[5030]

I run he chipper off the 1000 rpm PTO and throtte back. full tractor HP into this garden chipper would/could tear things up.

Completely aggressive self feeding on large solid stuff, and less so as the knives and counter knife loose their crispness.
Anyone who "always has razor sharp knives" either isn't working the machine much, or sharpens for a hobby. I get no more than 20 hours before the edges go dull. For a garden chipper, that's a lot of time

I guess I do then . I have 3 sets. One in the machine and 2 sharp to go in the machine. I just happen to have the surface grinder and angled jig so running knives is pretty quick and if they don't get all beat up, about 3 passes on each restores the edge. I do all the local tree companies as well. Morebark, Chipmore, Asplundh, CMC, you name it, if it has knives and it's commercial, we can run them. Nice little side business but it requires the proper equipment.

I don't do the little ones (other than my personal chipper).

I change mine out every fall btw.

 

[5030]

One thing thats never mention on this thread is hearing protection. You could go deaf from chipperitus......

 

[RoyJackson]

One thing thats never mention on this thread is hearing protection. You could go deaf from chipperitus......

Yes...hearing, eye, head and face protection are important. I wear forester's helmet when I'm operating the chipper. The mesh face shield has prevented few chunks from hitting me.