Snowplow design with float & d/p.

[Rustyiron]

I've been making converted p/u truck snowplows for tractors & SS's for a while using this design that allows for float (normal) action along with down pressure. Notice the tube in tube with the welded stops on what could be called the "top link". If you can't see in the pics, you curl in the bucket function so that it hit's the stops and raise's the plow, and "dump" until you hit the stops for d/p.
On this particular plow I gave it 12" of plow motion before it hit either of the stops. You position the frame (bucket curl out) to a mid point between the stops, ( 3" each way to the stops) giving you 6" of travel down, and 6" up. You need to provide a pivot point at each end of this tube for the slight movement through it's arc, and it need's to be rugged. The geometry on this plow/frame worked out that each inch of travel on the diag. tube gave 2" of plow movement. The tube is 2x2x.25 wall, and the rectangular tube(s) at the loader are 2x3x.25 wall. Thought it might help someone.

 

[pappy60]

Good idea... probably works great.. Would like to find a reasonable priced plow to do it.. Thanks...

 

[JCByrd24]

Really like this, nice job fellow Mainer.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Nice design Rusty. I've been planning for the same end result with my plow but a different way of doing it. Never thought of your way.

 

[nybirdman]

That is a very good idea and well done.

 

[aczlan]

Nice. One note, several people on here have had success with placing their pivot points ahead of the mounting points for the angle cylinders (so the blade is tucked in closer to the loader).
Less force on the front axle that way (because the blade is closer to the axle) and a little less risk of bending the loader frame.

Aaron Z

 

[Rustyiron]

Nice. One note, several people on here have had success with placing their pivot points ahead of the mounting points for the angle cylinders (so the blade is tucked in closer to the loader).
Less force on the front axle that way (because the blade is closer to the axle) and a little less risk of bending the loader frame.

Aaron Z

Yes, I've seen them, very cleverly done!
I asked this guy if he was concerned about that, and he was not. It adds a lot ot time to the build (rebuilding the blade) this version is only about a half day job with only minor modifications to the plow it self. This design started out for me & 3 buddies with skid steers that had snow plows, and works fine in that application with the plow mounting only about 12" ahead of the front wheels. With the advant of tractors with ssqa in recent years……. . I think "snugging" up the blade for a tractor, esp. smaller one's is worth the effort for the sake of the tractor, loader, and performance. Frame mounting would be give the best results but most do not want to loose the higher stacking ability of loader mounting.

 

[aczlan]

Makes sense for a skidsteer. A lot of skidsteers wouldn't have the room to tuck the back of the A frame in without it hitting the frame of the skidsteer.

Aaron Z

 

[avc8130]

Yes, I've seen them, very cleverly done!
I asked this guy if he was concerned about that, and he was not. It adds a lot ot time to the build (rebuilding the blade) this version is only about a half day job with only minor modifications to the plow it self. This design started out for me & 3 buddies with skid steers that had snow plows, and works fine in that application with the plow mounting only about 12" ahead of the front wheels. With the advant of tractors with ssqa in recent years……. . I think "snugging" up the blade for a tractor, esp. smaller one's is worth the effort for the sake of the tractor, loader, and performance. Frame mounting would be give the best results but most do not want to loose the higher stacking ability of loader mounting.

Sweet. Sounds like you've got the design all worked out for when I commission you to do mine ;-).

ac

 

[Fallon]

Cool design. My current setup is a quick hitch welded to a SSQA plate. The cross piece I added to the back of my cheap manual plow fits into the hooks on the which hitch. Chain goes to the toplink hook.

I'm on the lookout for the right cheap hydraulic angled plow for my next one. Probably find it during the summer. Will definitely come back and eye up your design again when I get to the new build. I do want to make my next one a more compact design though like others have noted. My current design was easy & works well, but could be improved a fair bit (hydraulic angle, your diwnpressure thing, more compact, etc.)

 

[jimmysisson]

I have a Ford 2120 on Ag tires, 7109 loader, with an old Fisher pa plow welded to the QA plate, so it sticks way out front. Maybe 5500 lbs loaded. The plow pins where it would on a truck, and the top a-frame is on there with the old chain. Float via the chain, but no down pressure. If it's not scraping my mostly gravel drive clean, I raise the loader arms to raise the pin pivot point and it digs better. Lower the loader and the plow will bump over minor obstructions like froze-in rocks better.
Aside from the awkwardness of the length (haven't hit MUCH) this setup does not push the tractor around too bad. When it does I straighten the blade and keep pushing. Not sure why others have trouble keeping straight, but it doesn't happen to everyone.
Jim

 

[ishiboo]

Looks like really nice work! But, I really like a setup a guy built that I bought by mistake.

Basically, the lower attachment points (which look very thin on yours, btw... the truck plows seem to be 3/4" plate and I used 5/8" for mine) are set up just like yours are - they go well above the lower pin - on yours, you have a second set of holes there we can see. If a full SSQA adapter were used, when you rolled forward, the tops of those would very simply contact the plate and provide downforce. A shim can be added to lower the amount of travel before down pressure is seen. A traditional chain hanger takes care of float. This is a lot less fab work and less stuff to wear out/rust IMO.

I really liked this setup on my skid loader, on my tractor I don't see much of a need as I have the Western plow set up on the front, and the 2000+lb Frontier back blade I plan on using for dragging the concrete driveway to the neighbors garage. Seems it will be much easier on the much weaker tractor loader arms versus the skid steer.

 

[jcummins]

Looks like really nice work! But, I really like a setup a guy built that I bought by mistake.

Basically, the lower attachment points (which look very thin on yours, btw... the truck plows seem to be 3/4" plate and I used 5/8" for mine) are set up just like yours are - they go well above the lower pin - on yours, you have a second set of holes there we can see. If a full SSQA adapter were used, when you rolled forward, the tops of those would very simply contact the plate and provide downforce. A shim can be added to lower the amount of travel before down pressure is seen. A traditional chain hanger takes care of float. This is a lot less fab work and less stuff to wear out/rust IMO.

I really liked this setup on my skid loader, on my tractor I don't see much of a need as I have the Western plow set up on the front, and the 2000+lb Frontier back blade I plan on using for dragging the concrete driveway to the neighbors garage. Seems it will be much easier on the much weaker tractor loader arms versus the skid steer.

Picture?