Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck
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TomSeller
Super Member
I've found these pretty good products
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/parts-repairs/444213-harbor-freight-tools-dont-suck-image-2100965082-jpg"/>
That is funny! Got to have a cordless hammer.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
It is those stinking Chinese rubber tires. I bought some of the tires themselves for replacement, and they stunk up the whole basement. Smelled just like a HF store.
TomSeller
Super Member
So you are saying it can't hit the nail on the head? I appreciate the feedback. Maybe I will get the hose/cord to convert electricity to water.
This place has some good stuff too.:laughing:
KaleCoAuto.com, Your home for the rare, unusual, and hard to find auto parts.
This place has some good stuff too.:laughing:
KaleCoAuto.com, Your home for the rare, unusual, and hard to find auto parts.
weldingisfun
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- Mahindra 4500 4WD w/FEL, and Scotts S2048 lawn tractor
Apparently this fella found a tool that does not suck. He is selling his used 16 ton pipe bender Search results for: 'pipe bender' for nearly twice the price he paid for it. Hydraulic pipe bender
weldingisfun
Veteran Member
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- 1,824
- Location
- West Bell County, Texas
- Tractor
- Mahindra 4500 4WD w/FEL, and Scotts S2048 lawn tractor
Apparently this fella found a tool that does not suck. He is selling his used 16 ton pipe bender Search results for: 'pipe bender' for nearly twice the price he paid for it. Hydraulic pipe bender
Turbys_1700
Elite Member
I just scored a Central Machinery 16 speed 1 HP floor drill press off of Craigslist. Had to drive to Charlotte to get it. I swear it looks unused. Owner said he did not need it and only used it a couple of times. Could not pass it up. I've not used it that much but for the price seems to be a good enough unit for me.
Floor Drill Press - 16 Speed Floor Drill Press
Floor Drill Press - 16 Speed Floor Drill Press
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California
Super Star Member
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- An hour north of San Francisco
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- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
Yeah. I don't understand that. You see those marked-up items on Amazon, too. I wrote a review saying 'just do a search on [brand name of tool] then go to the nationwide chain where they will sell you the same thing for half the price and including an exchange warranty". I posted a 'review' like this once for a HF pump, another time for a Ryobi jig saw.
Obviously the person who listed the item on Amazon will run down to HF etc and just buy one when some sucker places an order. Caveat Emptor.
Garandman
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We have two of the large wheel dollies, now on sale for $48. Super handy.
700 lb. Capacity Bigfoot Hand Truck
700 lb. Capacity Bigfoot Hand Truck
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varmint
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- Kubota B8200, then a Kubota L3130 HST, now a Kubota L3400 HST
Sorta off the topic, a bit. I noticed that HF has Cat. 1 top links for $24.95 list... so with your ever-present 20% off coupon, a new top link is only $20! Not a premium product, but serviceable.
reb
Veteran Member
I put one on my Yanmar a few years ago. It seems ok. My problem is that my box blade, a no-name cheapie, does not work well with it. I have to move the top hook when I put the box blade on.
I made a couple of bushings because the pins on my mower and box blade are significantly smaller than the hooks on the hitch.
Changing attachments is quicker than before.
California
Super Star Member
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- An hour north of San Francisco
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- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
Quick Hitches: highly recommended. Harbor Freight's is cheapest (especially with 20% coupon), and indistinguishable from the one at Tractor Supply. Both are about the same as Deere's more expensive I-Match but I suppose the I-match can be used on greater hp tractors.
1). You can back up to an implement such as a box blade or disc and shove it around until it lines up, contrasted to muscling the implement into alignment with a BF bar - after the implement has been parked a while and started to sink into the ground. For that alone its worthwhile.
2). It's a time - and back - saver every time you mount an implement. Even mounting a trailer ball - just drop the side to side towbar with ball attached, into the hooks, instead of spreading the tractor's arms apart to put pins into sockets.
3). I've used mine as the basic chassis for some welding projects. Here's a mockup starting to build a toolbar to pull a spike harrow. (there will be short chains from this bar back to the harrow). And I built it so that the harrow can now be lifted. The QH serves as the structure for the pinned-on lifting 'winch'.
Total cost $100 for the spike harrow plus scrap on hand.
Rear forks I fabricated.
'Po Boy Ballast Box' assembled in 2 minutes from materials on hand.
Note implements come in all sorts of random widths. There is a 'Standard' for a QH but expect to make minor improvements to your implements to match your QH. Photo - I shimmed the pins on this little disc to match the width of the HF QH.
And finally one of the many QH threads. The last post in that thread has a photo of the upper link adapter ($18) you might need for some implements that are built in a way that obstructs the QH's top hook.
In summary, just do it. You'll wonder how you got by without it.
If you look at that You-tube comparison HF / I-Match, be sure to look at some of the other vids too. That vid favors the Deere version but I think for a lower-hp tractor, the HF one at a third the price is a better buy. Update - I looked at several of those vids, didn't find one that I would recommend. Don't bother.
1). You can back up to an implement such as a box blade or disc and shove it around until it lines up, contrasted to muscling the implement into alignment with a BF bar - after the implement has been parked a while and started to sink into the ground. For that alone its worthwhile.
2). It's a time - and back - saver every time you mount an implement. Even mounting a trailer ball - just drop the side to side towbar with ball attached, into the hooks, instead of spreading the tractor's arms apart to put pins into sockets.
3). I've used mine as the basic chassis for some welding projects. Here's a mockup starting to build a toolbar to pull a spike harrow. (there will be short chains from this bar back to the harrow). And I built it so that the harrow can now be lifted. The QH serves as the structure for the pinned-on lifting 'winch'.
Total cost $100 for the spike harrow plus scrap on hand.
Rear forks I fabricated.
'Po Boy Ballast Box' assembled in 2 minutes from materials on hand.
Note implements come in all sorts of random widths. There is a 'Standard' for a QH but expect to make minor improvements to your implements to match your QH. Photo - I shimmed the pins on this little disc to match the width of the HF QH.
And finally one of the many QH threads. The last post in that thread has a photo of the upper link adapter ($18) you might need for some implements that are built in a way that obstructs the QH's top hook.
In summary, just do it. You'll wonder how you got by without it.
If you look at that You-tube comparison HF / I-Match, be sure to look at some of the other vids too. That vid favors the Deere version but I think for a lower-hp tractor, the HF one at a third the price is a better buy. Update - I looked at several of those vids, didn't find one that I would recommend. Don't bother.
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California
Super Star Member
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- Jan 22, 2004
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- 16,689
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- An hour north of San Francisco
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
Anybody have experience with the little disc/belt combo sander? Worth $60 when similar units at Home Depot, such as Ryobi etc, costs twice that?
IslandTractor
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I have the smaller version that uses a one inch belt. Works fine after typical post purchase adjustment. Great bang for buck.
Here are some similar links:
