Splitter done broke

/ Splitter done broke #11  
Congrats on fixing it! You have somewhat less than 7 yrs until your next fix. Look at the failure - it tore out the beam, not the weld. The beam (box tube) is not beefy enough for this. It will tear again. Probably sooner than the first time. The beam style is not correct for a splitter. You can fix it like you did, or really fix it for good. But the real fix will take a lot more time. My $0.02...
 
/ Splitter done broke #12  
Congrats on fixing it! You have somewhat less than 7 yrs until your next fix. Look at the failure - it tore out the beam, not the weld. The beam (box tube) is not beefy enough for this. It will tear again. Probably sooner than the first time. The beam style is not correct for a splitter. You can fix it like you did, or really fix it for good. But the real fix will take a lot more time. My $0.02...


That failure got me thinking -if it were mine and now that I have a plasma cutter ...

a new longer double length splitter edge could be inserted all the way thru the box beam and welded around the cut out on the bottom and also on the top as was just done it would be pretty strong.

Just thinking out loud- and for getting it back in service it looks like the OP did as good a job as the factory did.
 
Last edited:
/ Splitter done broke #13  
Good luck with your repair. A splitter is a valuable thing to have.
 

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/ Splitter done broke #14  
Congrats on fixing it! You have somewhat less than 7 yrs until your next fix. Look at the failure - it tore out the beam, not the weld. The beam (box tube) is not beefy enough for this. It will tear again. Probably sooner than the first time. The beam style is not correct for a splitter. You can fix it like you did, or really fix it for good. But the real fix will take a lot more time. My $0.02...
,,,,,,,,Yes.

That failure got me thinking -if it were mine and now that I have a plasma cutter ...

a new longer double length splitter edge could be inserted all the way thru the box beam and welded around the cut out on the bottom and also on the top as was just done it would be pretty strong. Just thinking out loud- and for getting it back in service it looks like the OP did as good a job as the factory did.
Good idea to address the oilcanning of the surface that caused failure. ... Even using a thinner section, say half inch, passing thru the beam, finished flush on top, would be effective. - A bit longer F/B [at least on the top side] than the wedge. Then weld the orig wedge on centered in the area spanned by the thru gusset.
 
/ Splitter done broke #15  
This splitter appears to be a 2-way splitter with the cylinder mounted inside the tube which only allows the wedge to be welded to the surface of the tube.
 
/ Splitter done broke #16  
This splitter appears to be a 2-way splitter with the cylinder mounted inside the tube which only allows the wedge to be welded to the surface of the tube.

Sorry- couldn't see that from the pictures,
If so there is no way the splitting blade could pass thru the beam and be welded on both sides
 
/ Splitter done broke
  • Thread Starter
#17  
That failure got me thinking -if it were mine and now that I have a plasma cutter ...

a new longer double length splitter edge could be inserted all the way thru the box beam and welded around the cut out on the bottom and also on the top as was just done it would be pretty strong.

Just thinking out loud- and for getting it back in service it looks like the OP did as good a job as the factory did.


Can't be done on this bi directional splitter design.. With out redesigning a whole new splitter, in which case it would make more sense to just buy a new/ another model. Probably why the Powerhourse were so cheap... Same for the inside gusset, as the hydraulic cylinder is in there...

This splitter...
Working from outside in,,,, There is a heavy 1/4 frame tube or box tube that houses the splitter assembly and has the valve and 3 point mount bolted to it, then inside that is the 3/16 slide tube with the wedge welded on, and then inside the slide tube is the hydraulic cylinder...

Inexpensive and practical design, I old paid $500 back in the day...

For a few hour fix, I'll run it till it does it again... Maybe in 5 years, and then another fix, or another brand splitter

Thanks for the suggestions though
 
/ Splitter done broke #19  
On a "normal" one-direction splitter the wedge on the ram that rests in a "groove" is a far superior design for when the log doesn't split fully and then gets stuck on the wedge. When that happens, the log gets pushed off the wedge during the return stroke by the fingers of the "groove" on each side of the wedge. When the wedge is on the end of the splitter, a stuck log will continue to be stuck and require your favorite log-splitting person to remove it manually. Blah!
 
/ Splitter done broke #20  
Makes sense now that you mention it... thanks for the explanation!
 

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