DIY wheel spacers

[Aussiebushman]

The various options for chains or traction bars on the rears of my Ford 6000 have all failed due to the lack of clearance between the tires and the tractor body - like 1/2" As the wheel revolves, the shackles or bolts just snap off - even high tensile

This tractor is so old the chances of finding anything ready made is slim. I have searched numerous posts but can't find anything on "build it yourself" wheel spacers. I only need to add about 2" each side to do the job.Something like the ones in these pictures unless someone has better idea. All suggestions welcome

 

[Redneck in training]

Here is supplier of whttp://www.skidsteersolutions.com/accessories/wheel-spacersheel spacers:
There was another company that advertised on TBN that sells those and said they can make any non standard but I can't find it now.

Edit I just googled wheel spacers https://www.motorsport-tech.com/tractor.html this company will make custom spacers
I would think that there will be a machine shop in AUS that could make them too.

 

[BHD]

John Deere had spacers on there 6600, 4400, etc combine series, if that is the correct bolt pattern, I think they were a 8 hole pattern,

 

[oldpilgrim]

https://www.motorsport-tech.com/tractor.html

you can't do better than these guys. i had a set made for my brother's Kioti and they are perfect. If they don't have them, they'll make them and the workmanship is first class. The owners are some of the most helpful and responsive guys I've ever dealt with.

Highly recommended.

 

[dieselcrawler]

I made these for my tractor... thinking outside the box, spacers do not have to go behind the lug nuts!




Have worked well for over a year now, gained 4.5 inches.

 

[Raspy]

dieselcrawler,

Good job. Excellent concept and well made. Those will never break.

 

[oldpilgrim]

Nice job, but with spacers behind the wheels, you only need 2.

 

[Aussiebushman]

Thanks all. I had hoped to fit spacers between the ends of the axles and the large plate to which the wheel bolts but I have looked again and doubt this will work. (See pictures)

The IT shop manual is useless - not even a picture of the wheel mounting. There seem to be only three options:

1. Fabricate units like Dieselcrawler's - potentially a great solution

2. Fit longer studs and put spacers on each bolt (assuming the existing studs can be removed) OR

3. Possibly the simplest option - Reverse the wheels so the small offsets that are currently on the outside of the rims bolt onto the mounting plates and effectively widen the track considerably. You can see in the second picture that the current inside offset is nearly 12" whereas the outside offset is only around 3"

Unfortunately. I will not be able to determine if either of these options are feasible without removing a wheel - a swine of a job on a wheel this size. Has anyone got a similar setup and can offer comments please?

 

[Redneck in training]

Option #4
It is not clear from the pictures how much the axle is sticking out from the wheel disc but I think you might be able to slide the wheel 50 mm out on the axle.

 

[Aussiebushman]

Thanks Ladia

Assume I'm stupid - not too far from the truth - but please explain how this is done. Presumably remove the wheel first, but then what? As stated earlier, the IT shop manual is useless

 

[pappy60]

Had a similar problem on a Ford 4500 Backhoe.. I reversed wheels (i.e. swapped sides) but I took a 1/4" hand grinder and tapered the holes in the wheels so the lug nuts would fit in better... gave me over 6" on each wheel clearance for the chains...
Also, the added width gives it more sideways stability..
Would recommend you find a taper drill to modify the holes rather than hand grind them.

After looking closer at your pictures, it would not be as simple to reverse your wheels as mine were..
Good luck..

 

[Redneck in training]

Thanks Ladia

Assume I'm stupid - not too far from the truth - but please explain how this is done. Presumably remove the wheel first, but then what? As stated earlier, the IT shop manual is useless

Perhaps it was stupid suggestion on my part. Looking on your picture the wheel hub is clamped on the axle. Therefore I thought that if you loose the clamp you could slide the hub somewhat out. Provided the axle is long enough.

 

[Aussiebushman]

That's right Ladia - the axle does not protrude past the mounting plate. I think Pappy's solution is about the only one available to me but it ain't gonna be easy. The 6000 must weigh over 2 tons even with the rear blade removed.

I managed to lift one wheel just clear of the ground with a floor jack and have rigged a hoist and chain block to support the wheel after the nuts have been removed, but I'm very nervous about trying to hold up the weight of the tractor while I lift the wheel on the other side, remove it and move it around. Maybe a second floor jack on that side but it will be very dangerous work.

Although there are good reasons for the tires to rotate in only one direction, mine are so worn (see picture with dog inspecting my workmanship) that once the chains are fitted, it may not make much difference which way the wheel rotates. so I'm tempted just to reverse each wheel - NOT swap sides. This tractor never goes onto bitumen or travel over a couple of mph so I can't see any real problem. Doing this will simplify the job greatly.

Re tapering, that will not be necessary, because the nuts are just conventional flats with spring washers. That at least makes the job a bit easier.

Any further thoughts please?

 

[oldpilgrim]

Do not rely on a jack alone. Get some jack stands..pretty cheap.... you'll use them again and again. At the very least use wood cribbing.

Never just rely on a jack, unless you have a death wish.

 

[pappy60]

Agree with oldpilgrim.. make sure the tractor CANNOT fall...

 

[LD1]

Any way to move the fenders in instead of the wheels out?

 

[CNC Dan]

Do not rely on a jack alone. Get some jack stands..pretty cheap.... you'll use them again and again. At the very least use wood cribbing.

Never just rely on a jack, unless you have a death wish.

And never, never use masonary blocking(bricks, cement blocks, cinder blocks, etc).

 

[Aussiebushman]

All good advice re safety- I have been here in the bush for over 40 years and have survived. I do have jack stands but will weld up something even more secure. However, I admit to having at least one house brick under the trolley jack.

LDI - no, the problem is the lack of space between the tires and the (fixed) tractor body

No one has commented on whether I can get away without swapping left and right wheels and vice versa. I know that is preferred but the task is pretty daunting - the tractor weighs closer to 3 tons than 2 and each wheel and tire would be well over 100 Kg

 

[dieselcrawler]

It will be some work but worth it... looks like swapping side to side is your best bet in my opinion. Jack up each side, crib or use heavy duty jack stands, swap tires. You should gain 8 to 10 inches per side of width or fender clearance. Unlike mine, your seem to clamp onto a ribbon moulded intimate the outter rim, not bolt directly to welded on brackets.

Good luck, work safely.

 

[Xfaxman]

---------------------------
No one has commented on whether I can get away without swapping left and right wheels and vice versa. I know that is preferred but the task is pretty daunting - the tractor weighs closer to 3 tons than 2 and each wheel and tire would be well over 100 Kg

What I would try first is loosen the hub clamps and slide the wheel out 2 inches. They look long enough and strong enough to work that way.