Tractor Sizing Buying new tractor, not sure what to get.

[Iwannafish]

First a little background.....

I grew up on a farm. Great Grandfather, Grandfather and Father both farmed till they died. In fact, I am the offspring of at least seven generations of farmers. I have inherited the family farm. I am not a farmer, anymore. I went back to college in my early 30's. I am a college professor who is just a couple of years from retiring. I am selling most of the agricultural land, and have already had an equipment auction at the headquarters, where I sold everything. I am kicking myself now, because I sold some tractors and equipment that I wish I had kept. I have decided to keep the headquarters (ten acres) and a tract of hunting land (about 100 acres) about 1 mile from the headquarters. I am going to build a house on the old family place and retire there.

I will need a tractor, but have no experience with anything under 125 hp. As I said, I sold a JD 4430 that we bought brand new in 1976, and I wish I had it back, but it is gone. I will need to mow (finish cut) about five acres weekly, plow and plant a truck patch (2 acres), bush hog another ten acres a couple of times a year, disk and plant a seven acre duck hole, and prepare a ten acre dove field every year, as well as basic road and food plot upkeep. I plan to by a finish mower, bush hog, disk harrow, 2 row planter, front end loader, 2 bottom cultivator, and other small implements as needed.

How much tractor do I need to do this (HP). Will a compact do, or should I buy a larger utility tractor? MFWD or 2WD? Suggestions are welcome!!!
I am concerned that if I ask these questions at the implement company, the sales staff may encourage me to buy more than I really need.

 

[jeff9366]

Does any of your land slope where you will be operating your tractor?

Will you have to deal with snow?

My immediate recommendation is 40 to 50 horsepower, HST / 4-WD / FEL.

Are you researching cab tractors or open station tractors?

To finish mow five acres weekly, budget for a Zero Turn mower.

Where is WINONA?, so we have some idea of your soil and weather.


Here is a LINK for implement ideas:

http://www.lsuagcenter.com/NR/rdonl...45263BDD8/11557/pub2917tractorimplements1.pdf

 

[fredflintstone]

would not go less than 40hp and a grear drive is a better option for field work/ 4wd /FEL

 

[GManBart]

I would skip the compact size machines and go with a Utility tractor for those tasks. A utility machine will do all of those tasks better, and faster than a compact will. It doesn't sound like any of your work will be in tight spots, so the extra size shouldn't cause any problems.

For most folks a compact tractor is a compromise...big enough to do real work, but not tear up the property, affordable enough to not kill the budget, and still fit in reasonable size buildings. I would definitely consider a zero turn mower for the 5 acres of finish mowing.

I know some folks will argue (what else is new?) but I would stay away from getting the lowest engine HP in any given size machine. Buying a Utility machine with a 45hp engine might make sense for some folks, but I think that's generally going to be a small group. Something with maybe 75hp, MFWD, and a power shuttle transmission should be able to handle the tasks you're talking about, and not be pushed to the max all the time.

 

[Iwannafish]

I am in Mississippi, just on the edge of the Delta region, so there will be no slope. You can see the loess bluffs from my property. The soil is a very high quality sandy loam. We farmed cotton on most of it. Snow is not an issue. I will not be buying an enclosed cab. I was planning on the zero turn mower already. My primary consideration is the tillage of the duck hole and dove field. Never had to wonder about these things before because there were always plenty of large tractors available. The 4430 JD that I mentioned was our water furrow tractor. The smallest we had. I just sold a pair of 8000 series JDs this spring.


For the first time in my life, I can not run to the shop and grab a tractor, and I am freaking out.

 

[arlen4720]

If you like John Deere and want to continue down that road, then I think a 5085M open station would be a nice rig.

 

[TJP89]

I would skip the compact size machines and go with a Utility tractor for those tasks. A utility machine will do all of those tasks better, and faster than a compact will. It doesn't sound like any of your work will be in tight spots, so the extra size shouldn't cause any problems.

For most folks a compact tractor is a compromise...big enough to do real work, but not tear up the property, affordable enough to not kill the budget, and still fit in reasonable size buildings. I would definitely consider a zero turn mower for the 5 acres of finish mowing.

I know some folks will argue (what else is new?) but I would stay away from getting the lowest engine HP in any given size machine. Buying a Utility machine with a 45hp engine might make sense for some folks, but I think that's generally going to be a small group. Something with maybe 75hp, MFWD, and a power shuttle transmission should be able to handle the tasks you're talking about, and not be pushed to the max all the time.

Nailed it. Pretty much what I would suggest.

Only other thing is if you're retiring, you are going to have this tractor for a while. Don't get an economy one. Get one with some nicer features that you will appreciate later on. Also, don't completely ditch the idea of a cab.

Do you mind telling us what you're willing to spend, that way we don't go overboard. Without limits, we're liable to get you back up to a JD 6125R PST Cab.

 

[Iwannafish]

Nailed it. Pretty much what I would suggest.

Only other thing is if you're retiring, you are going to have this tractor for a while. Don't get an economy one. Get one with some nicer features that you will appreciate later on. Also, don't completely ditch the idea of a cab.

Do you mind telling us what you're willing to spend, that way we don't go overboard. Without limits, we're liable to get you back up to a JD 6125R PST Cab.

I can spend whatever I need to spend, but I do not want to spend more than I need to. Does that make sense? I do not want to spend so much on a tractor that I cant afford to buy tools to go with it, and I dont want to buy so much tractor that I have to buy full size implements. If that was the goal, I would just wait till spring and hit some of the ag auctions. I know that you can buy a mighty nice full size tractor at auction for $10k, and I saw a full size IH 480 disk sell for 500 bucks this spring!

I guess to answer, I would like to be all in for under 40k, tractor and implements.....

 

[boggen]

your MFWD = keeping traction in the fields.
2WD does work but once you get into some slop / mud you maybe stuck vs MFWD keeping you going.

i would push for a cab. sounds like ya getting into a lot of dust. and maybe into some sort of "spray rig" if ya go that far for a couple fields. humidity + heat, would be another one for having a cab.

not sure if you would see "duels" on the rear or not. might want to double check on rim's that come with.
if not going duels. then would take extra care on type of rims. to see if you can adjust them in/out for different row widths.

FEL might be issue, if field work, vs needing more weight on front or like. to pull implements better. with that might see about some sort of quick hitch. or easy way to take loader arms completely off. to gain access to a "weight bracket" on the front of tractor.

with "truck patch" sounds like possible moving pallets on/off trailers/trucks and needing "forks" for the FEL.

you are getting near edge of were CAT 2 (category 2) 3pt hitches come into play. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-point_hitch and might want to double check cat 2 is an option, plus adjustments for cat 1 setups.
540 RPM cat 1, and cat 2 ya get up into 1000RPM PTO, you might want to see if there is a lever or something to swap between the 2. guessing 540RPM better choice.

double check for a "swinging draw bar" hooks up below PTO shaft, then connects to "draw bar" that goes between the lower lift arms. i am guessing you have a couple hay wagons / running gear or other stuff you may end up pulling.

double check you get the extra stuff for 3pt htich "check chains, stay straps, sway chains/bars" you may not get them as a basic tractor and might be additional cost.

would suggest a TNT (top n tilt) = replacing a top link and a side link on the 3pt hitch with hydraulic cylinders. this letting you adjust box blade, rear blade, york rake, rotatory cutter, 3pt hitch forks, etc... from seat of tractor. would be good for road maintenance using box blade, rear blade, road grader / scraper. even adjust a rotatory cutter to 3pt hitch forks.

if going open station, i might press going for a "larger alternator" if option. if ya plan for some sort of electrical winch on tractor, or electrical spray rig setup. or using some sort of 12V to 110V converter. to run a low amp power tool or like. most of the time "cab tractors" have upgraded altentator on them to help deal with all the lights / fans in the cab.

would push for extra high lighting (cab auto comes with lighting) but open station with just ROPS or sunshade may not. wanting that extra high lighting on top of ROPS point down both front and back. more so if you have a FEL. or needing a work lights for when things get a little bit dark.

ya looking at R1 / agricultural tires. vs R3/ turf and/or R4 industrial tires. ya doing a lot of field work. and needing tires to cut down in the mud / dirt and keep you going R3/R4 tires going to float on the ground and get you stuck.

weight = traction. other words more weight = better. for jobs you listed.

guessing 3 sets of rear remote hydraulics. so you can deal with anything that might come up within reason for adjusting roading wheels to lowering/raising wings on implements.

if you do not plan on have say 4in1 bucket or grabel, front mounted snow blower on the FEL, there is no real need for a 3rd function joystick for the FEL.

quick hitch for 3pt hitch = telescopic lower lift arms, to pats easy hitch, to upside down U shape quick hitch, to jiffy hitch / delta / triangle hitch setup. get something. to make life easier in hooking up stuff to 3pt hitch. ya getting into heavier equipment. that will not budge even with a 8 foot pry bar and a 20lb sledge.

hooks on general duty FEL bucket.

===================
with 1 tractor, above kinda setting up tractor of a "multi purpose tractor" does a little bit of everything. exception mowing the front yard.

most of the above is the "little add-on options" that in themselves is small, but add up quickly on final bill. they all can be extremely nice to use. and make life easier and some jobs / task much easier to do. some of the stuff can be had third party. TNT, extra higher lights, hooks on FEL bucket, but most of it is all tractor specific doings. and some of it may be dealer installed. manufacture ships tractor to dealer. and then dealer installs the extra options.

other words goto manufacture websites and do there "customization / tractor builder" thing. and check out the extra option pages.

===================
only thing not noted above would be a "3pt hitch backhoe with sub-frame" FEL (front end loader), backhoe, CAB, and tractor itself are high ticket items that tend to be more tractor specific. and if buying together in a single purchase you may get a larger discount. vs buying stuff later down road.

3pt hitch stuff can all be had 3rd party. and bought at a later time with more likely getting better pricing options.

==================
Tractor Attachments And Skid Steer Attachments For Any Tractor Or Skid Steer = a long list of various implements. you may or may not know about. (not really farming large scale stuff there) but.. something to look at it.
http://www.tractorhouse.com = used stuff
SearchTempest: Search all of Craigslist nationwide & more = search multi cities of http://www.craiglist.org

 

[arlen4720]

I guess to answer, I would like to be all in for under 40k, tractor and implements.....

Were you planning new or used? The auction route might be the way to go.

 

[jeff9366]

RE: Cab tractor for OP

It can take a year or more to get used to retirement.

In retirement if it is too hot, raining, or too cold, don't tractor that day. Every day is a weekend day. Three hours work during summer mornings is enough. Naps are not frowned on.

So, perhaps, a cab is not necessary.

With an HST (Hydrostatic) transmission the children and grandchildren can experience operating the tractor.

 

[jeff9366]

First a little background…..

I inherited the family farm.

I am a college professor just a couple of years from retiring.

No land cost, no land mortgage. Probably some reasonable defined benefit pension. Will be selling substantial ag land.

This OP, while wanting to be prudent, can afford whatever he wants.

 

[Iwannafish]

No land cost, no land mortgage. Probably some reasonable defined benefit pension. Will be selling substantial ag land.

This OP, while wanting to be prudent, can afford whatever he wants.

Yes, I have a good pension plan. Yes, the land is paid for along with a very nice metal shop and steel implement shed. This was an operating cotton and corn farm until December when my father passed away. I grew up on the front apron of the shop. I drove tractors, spray rigs, cotton pickers and combines on the place until I went back to college in my late 20's, and still worked with Dad during the summers just for something to do. Now that Dad is gone, I don't have it in my heart to let everything go. I am selling about 1000 acres of irrigated, land formed, sandy loam cropland, but am going to keep the headquarters (shop) and some hunting acreage nearby. I will need a tractor, but just to play with. I will not be farming with it, or trying to actually "work" with it. I am planning on using it 5 or 10 hours a week, primarily to tend to a few hunting holes and food plots, and maybe a garden for a hobby. I plan to spend a lot of time crappie fishing after I retire!

While I have extensive experience with tractors in the 200 hp range, I have never even driven a utility or compact tractor other than a riding mower...... That is why I was asking the forum my original question. How many horsepower will it take to do this. Will a 50 hp mfwd pull a four row, 3 point disk deep enough to matter?

 

[jeff9366]

A 50-hp tractor with 4-WD will pull a HEAVY Tandem Disc Harrow with 22", possibly 24" diameter pans. Both will cut 8" to 10" deep. Both will cut through sod; the 24" pan disc will cut through sod readily.

If you buy a Disc Harrow with 9" spacing between the pans it is the deeper cutting option but will leave soil rougher than 7" - 7-1/2" pan spacing, which is spacing used for smoothing after land has been turned with a moldboard plow.

You may also wish to consider Three Point Hitch mounted Offset Disc Harrow, which are used in lieu of plows. Offset Disc Harrows require considerably more tractor power than Tandem Disc Harrows of the same pan diameter. I have NO personal experience using an Offset Disc Harrow.

Monroe Tufline is in Columbus, Mississippi.

LINKS (2): Agriculture | Tufline

How to select WIDTH is covered in this LINK:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/308251-disc-harrow-selection-18-45-a.html?highlight=

If you buy 22" or 24" pan diameter Disc Harrow you can likely do without a plow if the ground has been broken once with a plow in the past. For uses speced in your Post #1 I would purchase notched pans, front and rear.

 

[OrangeToys]

I am selling about 1000 acres of irrigated, land formed, sandy loam cropland, but am going to keep the headquarters (shop) and some hunting acreage nearby.

Just out of curiosity, why not rent the land out and keep it? Land value is only going up, amd they don't make anyone of it.
But this is coming from someone that only has 3ac and wants the 1000ac and wouldn't ever sell.

 

[Iwannafish]

Just out of curiosity, why not rent the land out and keep it? Land value is only going up, amd they don't make anyone of it.
But this is coming from someone that only has 3ac and wants the 1000ac and wouldn't ever sell.

Reason 1: There are other heirs involved.

 

[arlen4720]

Are you partial to John Deere?

 

[Iwannafish]

Are you partial to John Deere?

Sure, I am "partial" to JD. But I have used Case, IH, Case IH, Massey, and Ford tractors. Around here, farmers tend to use JD, and that is all we were using lately. There are more Deere dealerships in the area, and my family has done a lot of business with the area Deere dealers, so that is the way I was leaning. If prices and specs are similar, I suspect I will go with a Deere.

 

[jaydee325]

For scale, I'll offer my experience. I have 5 acres and when I was tractor shopping, I was in the SCUT range. Ended up with a CUT in the 40 hp range (LS R3039H). Glad I went bigger!

Now scale this up to your acreage. I'm thinking you want to be in the utility range (75 to 100 hp). Consider the years you will be using this tractor. When you are older, a cab I think will be very much appreciated.

Don't go low or economy end. You have worked hard and deserve something that you will enjoy every hour of the week you are in the seat.:thumbsup:

 

[jenkinsph]

A 50-hp tractor with 4-WD will pull a HEAVY Tandem Disc Harrow with 22", possibly 24" diameter pans. Both will cut 8" to 10" deep. Both will cut through sod; the 24" pan disc will cut through sod readily.

If you buy a Disc Harrow with 9" spacing between the pans it is the deeper cutting option but will leave soil rougher than 7" - 7-1/2" pan spacing, which is spacing used for smoothing after land has been turned with a moldboard plow.

You may also wish to consider Three Point Hitch mounted Offset Disc Harrow, which are used in lieu of plows. Offset Disc Harrows require considerably more tractor power than Tandem Disc Harrows of the same pan diameter. I have NO personal experience using an Offset Disc Harrow.

Monroe Tufline is in Mississippi.

.

Jeff,
I have a 4520 compact now and when I lived in MS we had a variety of tractors from 20 to 160 hp. That ground can be tough to plow and it is easy to stick a tractor deep (ask me how I know). It will take a 60 hp tractor to do a good job with your disc.


Iwannafish,
As you can well imagine how large a tractor you need depends on how much time you have to spend on these tasks. I don't think your budget of $40,000 is near enough for new equipment since the implements would be more than half of that in cat 1 sizes. I strongly recommend you buy a cab tractor with mfwd in what ever size and brand you decide on. There is a balance between the amount of time it takes vs. the cost of larger high production machinery that you will have to work out in your own mind. Nothng cheap about having to replace equipment and good luck with the sellers remorse and soon to be buyers remorse.

I would agree with others that a separate mower for the lawn areas is the way to go. An 80 hp tractor also seems like a good size with cat 2 implements.