I own a LS 3039H with telescoping draft links which I think are horrible. The sway is too much and I would rather have the turnbuckle draft links. I remember seeing LS turnbuckle draft links. Does anyone have the part number for them or for an aftermarket turnbuckle draft link for the 3039H.
3-Point Hitch Telescoping draft links
- Thread starter gkess2
- Start date
- Views: 16202
lostcreekranch
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2012
- Messages
- 8,078
- Location
- Austin County, Texas
- Tractor
- NH TL-100A with Bush Hog 5045 FEL, WR Long 3rd function, LS XR4155HC w/FEL, WR Long 3rd Function.
If they are same as the ones on the XR4XXX's you may not setting them up correctly. Hook up implement, lift, push implement to left and get the front end of the right side stabilizer straight as possible before inserting the stop pin. Then do same to left side stabilizer while pushing implement to the right.
Alternative is get a CAT 1 quick attach and do above once, when you install the QA.
The LS stabilizers are far superior to turn buckle style.
Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
Alternative is get a CAT 1 quick attach and do above once, when you install the QA.
The LS stabilizers are far superior to turn buckle style.
Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
k0ua
Epic Contributor
I wouldn't swap the ones on my Kioti for all the turnbuckles in the world.
DK35vince
Super Member
That's a new one. Liking turnbuckles better than the telescoping.
I like the telescoping sway bars on my current tractor far better than the crappy turnbuckles my last tractor had.
Last edited:
HCJtractor
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2009
- Messages
- 1,541
- Location
- upstate South Carolina, Greenville
- Tractor
- Kubota M6800, Massey Ferguson 240
I agree. Telescopic are much better. Just replaced my chains on a massey ferguson 240 with a nice aftermarket telescopic set.
murphy1244
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2011
- Messages
- 19,512
- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Show us a pic of your hook up and maybe we can help.
The only thing I can think of he is dropping the pin in the slots on the stabilizers. Whose purpose is if you want a lot of sway in your stabilizers. There is very little sway in my Kioti if I drop the pins in the proper holes. Next to none. I assume the LS version would be the same. Or something is loose or broken.. I am having trouble visualizing the problem.
murphy1244
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2011
- Messages
- 19,512
- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
That's exactly why I asked for pictures.
mangus580
Gold Member
I hate mine too - what I plan to do at some point is replace ONE with a turn buckle style.... This allows for quick release/adjustment from one side, and the ability to tighten it right up with the other.
I have been through 3 sets now I think? And I only have about 350 hours on the tractor!
I do also plan to put a quick hitch on, I just need to fix some of my implements to fit it!
I have been through 3 sets now I think? And I only have about 350 hours on the tractor!
I do also plan to put a quick hitch on, I just need to fix some of my implements to fit it!
Once I figured out the right hole on each side of the link I marked mine with a dab of paint that corresponds to the mower color, blade color, etc. Finish mower is orange, rotary is yellow, blade is red, etc. You want a little play or something has to give if you get in a bind.
mangus580
Gold Member
My dealer has maintained that any play is what makes them bend..... I am quite sick of folding them up like pretzels!
SPYDERLK
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2006
- Messages
- 12,537
- Location
- VA
- Tractor
- JD2010, Kubota3450,2550, Mahindra 7520 w FEL w Skid Steer QC w/Tilt Tatch, & BH, BX1500
Folding them up indicates they are acting in compression during use. If the elements are not tubular and designed to keep forces acting axially, straight down their middle, they wont withstand compression well. They can be quite fragile when bearing compression force. ... Adjust them to hold the arms a little wide to assure the links experience only forces that pull on them.
larry
I will send pictures as soon as my cell phone is charged. I am glad I am not the only one who dislikes them. I did as suggested a while ago, that is push to the right and left and put the pins in whatever holes lined up but there is still too much sway especially when backing up the mower. The mower actually slams back and forth as I turn in the field. The operator manual states there should be a certain amount of sway and I cannot come anyway near those specs. My first tractor was a JD 850 and my farmer neighbor said to get the draft links quite tight and the implement will follow the mower. It does not now on my LS 3039H. I tried a quick hitch and nothing hitched up to it quickly. I have a Woods 6' finish mower, a woods rotary mower, an ancient cycle bar mower and each one needed major modification to hook up and they never leveled out correctly. I remember seeing a parts diagram for a LS3039 and it had a parts number for turnbuckle draft links. If anyone knows the number I would be forever grateful.
Thanks
George
Thanks
George
fredflintstone
Silver Member
I have replaced mine aswell bent agin seams to do it with the weight of the tiller.i have taken precautions to get tight and drive slower with tiller attached but still sways, bends the lower link to back of the draft bar where attaches to back of tractor. can put in the vise and straiten but is saposed to have a slite bend to it but not as much as I have in mine
I would agree if they are too loose and your implement is slopping side to side. I have over 200 hrs on mine with no issues. I would also like to see a pic. I'm guessing the 3039 are lighter weight or different design. Contrary what your dealer is telling you the pin style links will never get "tight" unless you're forcing the implement over and driving the pin in.
Sysop
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2013
- Messages
- 3,311
- Location
- Fairmont, WV
- Tractor
- Mahindra 4035HST purchased 2013 - Husqvarna TS348-D purchased 2019 - Craftsman 42" HST purchased 2003
I have found the "knuckle" at the end of the link is many times where additional slop and play comes from. I have some implements that work best retracting them as far as they will go and they will be tight enough the knuckles won't slop around. But I also have others that won't retract far enough to prevent the slop and in those cases extending the telescoping part so it is pushing against the link rather than pulling it allows me to get it tighter. It just depends on how things line up best.
Leejohn
Elite Member
A lot of the slop is coming from the lower link moving on the pins and the Woods lift pin arms have a lot of slop in them. My 60" goes all over the place and my 990 use to, but I fixed it on the 990. So check your mower for slop. The adjustable sway arm have to have some slop otherwise they could lock up the 3pt when going all the way up. Also could stop the 3pt from going all the way down. So now you add all that up it turns into slop. Why you are binding them I can't understand that, with one arm being pull on and the other being pushed on. If you are having trouble pulling the pins I don't let the implement hit the ground and it can be moved side to side , the pins come right out. YOU MUST BE ON LEVEL GROUND TO DO IT THAT WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
fredflintstone
Silver Member
according to my dealer im not the first and only one to have bent there lower arms. and my entire arm is not bending just the end that attaches to the tractor 4140 I have straiten it out BF and has came back seams to be a week link to me
should be made with diff lift geimatree could have changed as mine is a 2012
should be made with diff lift geimatree could have changed as mine is a 2012
oosik
Epic Contributor
My tractor came equipped with telescoping ends on the lower arms. There is always a little slop when I connect an implement but not more than 3" each way of dead center. The telescoping ends have proven to be a God-send for implement hook up. I much prefer a slight amount of "slop" after an implement is connected - that way you know its not too tight in either the full up or full down position.
I'm always very careful if I push with any implement. I've always heard that pushing is the easiest way to cause damage to the 3-point system. I'm also careful when I turn with any 3-point implement as I know it can cause extreme pressures. I've always lifted any implement when turning. Better to lift, back up and readjust your return position than trying to turn with a ground engaging implement. A little care can save huge $$$.
Now if you implement is attached to the drawbar - that's a completely different story.
I'm always very careful if I push with any implement. I've always heard that pushing is the easiest way to cause damage to the 3-point system. I'm also careful when I turn with any 3-point implement as I know it can cause extreme pressures. I've always lifted any implement when turning. Better to lift, back up and readjust your return position than trying to turn with a ground engaging implement. A little care can save huge $$$.
Now if you implement is attached to the drawbar - that's a completely different story.
Don't try to corner hard with an implement and they won't bend/break. I pick up my mower at the end of every pass and make the next pass beside the one i finished. This also stops the streaking in tall grass as the blades will lift what the tractor tires ran down......
