need help designing a homemade loader

   / need help designing a homemade loader #1  

farm boy00

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Howard City, MI
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John Deere M&MT, Case 1030 comfort king, Sears ST16, Craftsmen 6000, homemade articulation mini-loader
I got a homelite/Jacobson garden tractor that i am looking to build a loader. Anyone ever do this?? Could someone help me design one. I know the tradition design of a loader but could someone help me with attachment points

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Can get more/better pictures if needed
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader #2  
Yes, people have done it. I designed and built mine, but it is for a 4wd tractor that came OEM with one as an option. Difference is nothing on that Homelite is heavy enough to handle the extra weight.
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Yes, people have done it. I designed and built mine, but it is for a 4wd tractor that came OEM with one as an option. Difference is nothing on that Homelite is heavy enough to handle the extra weight.

If you had a personal look at the tractor the frame and front axle is super heavy. The frame its self is 3/16+thicker 2 in pipe. The front axle it's huge for a garden tractor. And the the tires. Yup about junk. Those will get replaced
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader #5  
since the thing double posted, I use the second post to say this,

on a lawn tractor, I would think that one would be limited to 100 max 200 pounds of lifting capacity,

and if the bucket is not keep very close to the front of the tractor your weight distribution will make the tractor very unstable when it is said and done you will be balancing the weight of the tractor, operator, and load. will be balance over the front axel,

(the loader most likely will easily be able to lift much more but will the tractor and balance allow one to lift more,)

If you thinking of moving earth, a cubic foot is about 100 pounds, so it could take 5 or 6 loads to fill a wheel barrow, I know the pictures of the buckets are way more capacity,

this is the specs off of the cad loader 507
CADLoaderLT Model 507 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Loading Height 50 in. Hydraulic Pressure 700 psi
Lifting power at full height 200 lb. Number of cylinders required 2
Lifting power at partial elevation 300 lb. Weight (approx.) 300 lb.
Bucket roll-down angle at full height 40 degrees Digging depth below ground level 2 inches with bucket level
Hydraulic requirements 1 gal./min. - -

P.F. Engineering lists greater lifting power,
but when you put the load out in front, and the balance of the tractor most likely you will be the main counter weight, so you most likely will be able to lift about the same as what one weighs,

that is my two cents,

unless you have access to a lot of "free or very low cost" hydraulic cylinders and valves,

the bucket and lift, 4 cylinders you would have close to 400 in the valve 100 to 200, some kind of pump, 100, and then a tank, 50 to 100, if one uses surplus center as a part store, the hoses most likely another 200

and then the metal probably the lower cost portion of the plan, but new I would guess in the 200 to 300, for the bucket and the frame,

my guess is 700 in hydraulics on the low end, one will have close to 1000 in the project,

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I made a back hoe, I use all most 100% used iron, I thought I was doing good, then started pricing the hydraulics, I spent over 1500, and most likely closer to 2000 by the time I got all the fittings and hoses and it put together and yes it has been a good machine,

but I could have bought one on an auction that sold about the time I finished mine for less money than it took me to built it,

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

seriously consider looking in a little heaver tractor and a manufactured loader, as a unit, if you have any plans for heavy work, out of it.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

one more thing, t mount your loader I would say it would take a nearly complete under frame, on that tractor you have from what I am seeing, thus if it uses a belly mower like most lawn tractors do no more mowing or a lot of work to switch between them, as adding the under frame would most likely keep the mower deck from hooking up or working
 
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   / need help designing a homemade loader
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I don't think i made my question understanding. I know how to build a loader and the hydraulics. But I'm lookin to do if anyone has an idea for mounting points
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader #7  
I don't think i made my question understanding. I know how to build a loader and the hydraulics. But I'm lookin to do if anyone has an idea for mounting points

There are none. You have to make your own coming up the side in front of the seating area. Figure out how to make a sub frame that won't prevent you from attaching a mower. Then figure out how you can attach a 200lb box blade sticking 2' off the back. Then figure on new front axles and either a better steering system or power steering. Make room for a hydro pump and add a pulley and space for a filter and minimum 2 gallon tank. Gee, now you've added 600 lbs to the mower and haven't even scooped a load of sand. Better get some heavier tires too.
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader #8  
I don't think i made my question understanding. I know how to build a loader and the hydraulics. But I'm lookin to do if anyone has an idea for mounting points

Everyone is assuming you want a loader on this little tractor for normal "loader duties". What are your plans for it? What are you going to use it for?
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I'm thinking using it for helping remove some horse stalls,landscaping, to clean the stalls (stalls have been left nasty for 2+ years) and garden work and leveling my driveway and fixing a bad trench fill in
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader
  • Thread Starter
#10  
There are none. You have to make your own coming up the side in front of the seating area. Figure out how to make a sub frame that won't prevent you from attaching a mower. Then figure out how you can attach a 200lb box blade sticking 2' off the back. Then figure on new front axles and either a better steering system or power steering. Make room for a hydro pump and add a pulley and space for a filter and minimum 2 gallon tank. Gee, now you've added 600 lbs to the mower and haven't even scooped a load of sand. Better get some heavier tires too.

Front pto don't work and deck is rusty so that's on a debate for the deck. Going to try and tie into the hydraulic deck lift if not going to do a electric pump with everything on the back of the tractor. No box blade here. I don't even think I'm going to make a 3pt, etc... Just going to put weights with maybe the pump if needed. I don't think i will need new back tires. Already know i need new fronts. Steering is great and it's almost too easy. I don't think i will need to Upgrade that. It's not like the tractor is going to lift a 1,00 plus lb I'm just shooting for something to do stuff to help fix up my farm
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader #11  
I would with that mower, most likely flip it on it side and start to figure how to make a entire sub frame and attaché it in the front the middle an back to the rear axel, (my first thought would be to use 2 inch square tubing about 3/16 to 1/4 wall, two pieces on each side, then use some flat to reach up and bolt to the current frame may be a heavy angle across the front or a U shaped piece attach where the front axel goes, and then attached the front axel to that,

come out the about the middle with a channel or tube to attach the loader to, and some place in the front to mount some angle braces, possibly the front U shaped piece I said to mount to where the front axel mounts, extent it a little to bolt the angle braces on to the up rights,
 

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   / need help designing a homemade loader
  • Thread Starter
#12  
We are thinking of going for 12vt. Right now i need to tear apart the front pto and see why it's not kicking on. No rear hitches the ball hitch so the tank will be back there or maybe the loader frame as a resivor???
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader #13  
Yes Loader frame could be reservoir.
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader #14  
I don't think i made my question understanding. I know how to build a loader and the hydraulics. But I'm lookin to do if anyone has an idea for mounting points

Is not mounting the loader part of building it?

IF the loader is so easy to build mounting it then mounting it should be the easy part,

If the current frame is so heavy then mount a cross member on the frame and call it good,
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Is not mounting the loader part of building it?

IF the loader is so easy to build mounting it then mounting it should be the easy part,

If the current frame is so heavy then mount a cross member on the frame and call it good,

Yes mounting is part of building. I was just kicking around to see if anyone has any advise about mounting
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader #16  
I did one for my Bolens.I can tell you the tube frame isn't as heavy duty as you are thinking. I changed the frame on mine from tube to 1" X 3" X 1/8" wall. Also made it a little longer so I could move the battery. Here are some pictures of it. Before I got the hyds hooked up traded it for a lawn mower with a bad trans. and a good engine. Most of the parts to fix the trans were NLA , if not NLA the price was way up there. So I cut in half and got a old Ford rear end with the eaton 11 trans. Now I have a kubota front and a ford rear end. Here are pictures of the K-F.
 

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   / need help designing a homemade loader
  • Thread Starter
#17  
I did one for my Bolens.I can tell you the tube frame isn't as heavy duty as you are thinking. I changed the frame on mine from tube to 1" X 3" X 1/8" wall. Also made it a little longer so I could move the battery. Here are some pictures of it. Before I got the hyds hooked up traded it for a lawn mower with a bad trans. and a good engine. Most of the parts to fix the trans were NLA , if not NLA the price was way up there. So I cut in half and got a old Ford rear end with the eaton 11 trans. Now I have a kubota front and a ford rear end. Here are pictures of the K-F.

That's one heck of a loader. Though I'm not building another complete frame.

What i want to do is build a long subframe most of the way back to the axle and over the front maybe. And make out attach with 6 or 8 bolts. At the same time have the possible pto pump mounted to the subframe. Not sure what I'm going to do with the electric or hydraulic pump
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader #18  
if you are just looking to move a bit of stuff around ,,,.... look how the "johnny bucket " works and hooks up for ideas ....

but to be honest , I tend to agree with those that say the frame is too weak and even though the front axle looks HD , the spindles are not ...
look up the weight restriction specs for the tractor before you get too involved $$$$ wise ...
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader
  • Thread Starter
#19  
if you are just looking to move a bit of stuff around ,,,.... look how the "johnny bucket " works and hooks up for ideas ....

but to be honest , I tend to agree with those that say the frame is too weak and even though the front axle looks HD , the spindles are not ...
look up the weight restriction specs for the tractor before you get too involved $$$$ wise ...

No Johnny loader will ever be bought around here. Had one like that last year. JUNK JUNK something kept bending every time you went to spear into a pile of sand. Sand!!

Wouldn't that put more stress onto the front axle and front frame. Because you are push against the axle and the whole weight gets put onto the axle. If you Google it you can find pictures of it on those cheap lowes 200 series John Deere

My tractor is a huge garden tractor. I would image it would have a Stronger frame and axle then a lowes tractor
 
   / need help designing a homemade loader #20  
Have you looked through the sites found on Google images to see how they mounted their loaders?

Bruce
 

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