Those DARN lynch pins

[newbury]

Found the chinese puzzle pins.

Rue rings

Rue Ring ? - Ring, Bow-Tie Locking & Circle Cotter Pins | Pivot Point Inc.

Note I found it by searching on "linch pins" in the google search box on TBN.
/edit - I misspelled it intentionally

It was the 3rd thread down, http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-ag-tractors/312926-lynch-pin-alternatives.html and the post was

Rue rings may work:

Rue Ring

I have not used them because they are not available in Canada.

I replaced the more exposed lower lynch pins on my 3 point arms with bolts and lock nuts.

And there's a ton of other pins there also.

 

[ovrszd]

Pat's yes, standard quick hitch no. Doesn't the rigid frame of the QH prevent and side to side movement and shouldn't need anything on the end of the pin anyway?

On most attachments, yes. But I've saw pics on here of users that didn't use an outer clip and their attachment was able to get off one hook of the QH.

 

[the old grind]

Been using PTO pins for years. They're long-ish and flop around a bit but stay where you put 'em.

Working on making up a few extra washers like those included with PEC, which IMO is the accessory that has paid for itself the most times over. tog

 

[bcp]

On most attachments, yes. But I've saw pics on here of users that didn't use an outer clip and their attachment was able to get off one hook of the QH.

The attachment must have been several inches narrower than specs, with really long pins. The implement would have to move sideways the length of the pin without the other side of the implement hitting the inside of the QH hook. None of mine have more than a small fraction of an inch side play, and the linch pins can't touch a QH hook.

Bruce

 

[joecdeere]

I use "R" pins, and just push them all the way through until they're hanging. Haven't lost a pin in 5 years. To remove, just tap out with hammer or whatever is in the toolbox.

 

[Wagtail]

I had several of them when I was using Carter quick hitches. If you have a Pats or Carters's or any other kind of quick hitch, the washer/pin combo as shown will keep the washer out there on the outer edge of the draw pin where it acts as a shoulder, that makes it easier/safer when hooking up and less chance of slipping off than just a pin alone. You just leave them on each implement all the time, as you are not slipping hitch balls over a pin now, you are just hooking the pins from below now. Make sense?

Sorry James but I'm not picturing it... so I've used my 'google-image-fu' of "bent washer pin tractor"...

OK. The washer has a second hole in the bent section for the lynch pin to go through and is used to keep the bushing from banging up against the lynch pin if your implement shifts. Right?

I've got the JD iMatch QH.

 

[bcp]

Some bent washer links:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/244380-diy-quick-hitch-washers.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-change-vs-quick-post3592869.html#post3592869

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/140908-problem-pats-ec-system-my.html

Bruce

 

[Degolyerent]

I use "R" pins, and just push them all the way through until they're hanging. Haven't lost a pin in 5 years. To remove, just tap out with hammer or whatever is in the toolbox.

http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Joecdeere/media/P1010010_zps69504533.jpg.html

I do the same thing with good results
John

 

[gwdixon]

Some bent washer links:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/244380-diy-quick-hitch-washers.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-change-vs-quick-post3592869.html#post3592869

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/140908-problem-pats-ec-system-my.html

Bruce

The bent washers with only one hole tend to flop and be too loose in my experience. If the lift arms on the implement are not a bit long then leaving the washers/lynch pins on can result in a muffed hook-up.

The two attachment points for the lynch pin keep the washers tight and out of the way. The post from bcp has several ways to achieve the result in the quoted post links. Obviously, there is an issue since others have developed unique ways to solve the matter.

I use the Pat's washers but add the smaller bent washer to capture the other end of the lynch pin. With the Pat's I grind a little off of the washer where the bail of the lynch pin contacts it to give full clearance.

A large standard (or grade 8) flat washer with two little washers welded on works better in my opinion because the lynch pin bail can fully engage and not ride against the bend on the large washer (like Pat's OEM without grinding).

Of course, this approach applies best to a Pat's Quick Connect since the tractor's lower arms are free to swing unless tightened down for no sway (not recommended for ground engaging implements).

The solid frame QH design should minimize the need for a washer. In fact, with a tight fitting solid frame, one might be able to get away with no lynch pin at all.

 

[mfreund]

Anybody else ever had a disaster over a lost pin?

I lost a pin on my rockshaft for the MMM on my 4310. The lift cylinder bent the rockshaft and tore a mounting bolt out of the rear axle housing. Had a machinist neighbor straighten the shaft and installed the torn out bolt with JB Weld. Been good for 3 yrs now. Hate to imagine what the axle housing would cost. The MMM rock shaft is $280. All because a $0.10 part. I use cotter pins bent all the way over on any pin that is not regularly removed. The clips I am talking about are the .125 wire ones.