Top and Tilt Leak Down

[MacDaemon]

I have been told that what appears to me to be an EXCESSIVE amount of leak down on my top and tilt is actually normal for my NEW 50+hp tractor.
I am hoping that some people much more knowledgeable than me are able to shed some light on this subject.
SO

How many inches per hour should my NEW top and/or tilt drop?

Is there a formula?
Does it vary by brand?
Does cylinder size make a difference?
What about if the tractor is running or not?
What if I reverse the connections?

I really don't know much about this but I am having trouble mowing with my top and tilt because I have to adjust so often (not hours) to stop it from dragging on the hydraulic side.
I am wondering why anyone would want to damage the stability of their 3pt system by adding top and tilt.

Please, I would really appreciate hearing from different brand owners (and diy's) just what is the norm.

I thank you all in advance for your time and assistance!

 

[s219]

Mine takes days to move on its own and only does it with a heavy implement attached. With a light implement, it must move slower than I would notice.

It has to be an issue with the valve or cylinder. The way you stated it, I assume you have the Kubota factory rear remote valves on your new tractor. That's what I have too, and they seem pretty tight. So it may be the cylinder -- is it new? What brand?

 

[J_J]

If you do not like what you have, then a T-N-T cyl with check valve would be ideal.

2X8.25X1.18 CAT I HYD DA TOP LINK CYL

Cyl leak, valves leak. The dealer has the specs for leak down.

Hyd components leak , but some more than others.

 

[Baby Grand]

MacDaemon - I have similar leak down on my tilt cylinder.
It's annoying to see the cut start to deteriorate when brush hogging, so I watch it and adjust it frequently.
An ideal solution would be a check valve that could be bypassed or disabled, remotely.
Not sure how I could accomplish that, but I'm sure there are folks on here who do.

Aside from the leak down issue, which I consider an inconvenience, I still am very, very satisfied with the productivity increase that the TnT yields with many of my implements. Box blade, wood chipper, rear blade, tiller, and even the brush hog have become much more efficient and versatile with the addition of the TnT hardware.

 

[MacDaemon]

I am awaiting useable specs from the manufacturer, which will probably in the range of 4 to 12 inches per hr. possibly more.

I had no idea that top and tilt would drop so quickly.

I have no noticeable drop down on the new cylinders when they are disconnected.

 

[J_J]

Yourr 3pt valve is probably leaking.

 

[ovrszd]

I use the Kubota valves. I made my TnT. Can't remember the cylinder brand. Bought them from Surplus Center. 3" cylinders. Both of mine will leak down if holding loads. The tilt cylinder seems to be worse. But I actually think it's just because there is more load on it??

If brush cutting for long periods I adjust the left link so that completely "up" on the tilt cylinder equals a level cutter. I also carry my original link and have replaced the cylinder with it a couple times for many hours of cutting. As for the top link, I use it all the time while cutting so don't notice it leaking down so much.

I think JJ's suggestion of a lock valve is the true solution.

I also have problems with my top link appearing to have air in it. I really notice this when using the BB. Brian sold me some restrictors to help this problem. I've only used it a little with them installed and can't form an opinion yet. I'll post a thread when I've tested them thoroughly.

 

[MacDaemon]

When you say long periods what do you mean, with a 5' brush cutter I need to adjust every 1,000 feet

 

[ovrszd]

When you say long periods what do you mean, with a 5' brush cutter I need to adjust every 1,000 feet

No, nothing like that. I'm saying I will adjust the side link every 15-20 minutes.

My top link doesn't have constant load on it when brush cutting. The cutter rearend is being carried by the tail wheels. So I don't notice any issues there. I use my top link a lot when lifting the cutter or turning around. If I'm on flat ground and lift the cutter I often just shorten the top link and lift the rear of the cutter for turn-arounds.