4110 Final Drive

[David Berglund]

Worked a bit more on the tractor past thusday and today I finally made it until first startup.

I bought this tractor not operational and the only test I ever did was to make sure the engine turned, but I've never started it.

Today when all preparations were done, I turned the key and it started instantly. Very nice feeling!

Went through all the functions one by one and everything worked. Really a relief and a big motivator on the continued restoration I'm planning to undertake.

Basically I'm planning to repaint all bodyparts and also re-surface-treat all pins and linkage parts with the 3p since its very rusty.

 

[David Berglund]

Also here is a film clip of one of the first few test runs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYVcdaxyIYM

 

[kennyd]

Congrats David!

 

[RG1]

Also here is a film clip of one of the first few test runs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYVcdaxyIYM

Awesome David!! That things sounds great, and I didn't see any smoking. I really admire you getting it all back together and running. It will be a nice and useful little tractor when you are done. Please keep posting updates.

 

[David Berglund]

Could anyone confirm to me that the part marked A on the picture is a separate sleeve and not an integrated part of the actual axle/pin marked B?

If it were integrated, the lower 3pt attachement pin could never be removed without first removeing the final drive and that seemes very unlikely. However mine are rusted together hard and before I start to work in geting them apart I would like to know for sure that it is possible.

Thanks!

 

[kennyd]

Yes, they are separate David.

 

[RG1]

Yep, separate parts. Actually, there should be two sleeves over each pin. A short inner one, and a longer outer one. The short inner one gets replaced with a different part when mounting the belly mower.

 

[David Berglund]

Thanks for that!

I will get on it this afternoon and se if I get it apart. If not, I'll just fabricate a new sleve.

Another question regarding general use of the hydraulics.

I havn't seen any attachements driven by hydraulic motors. Is there anyone out there that has been using their hydraulics to drive motors? As far as I can see there is no free return on this tractors, but pershaps you could run inline with the valve package? Another sollution would be to add on a free return line.

I have a plan to build a small arm-mounted flailmower based on the cutters from an old cylinder mower that I've butchered. (Ransomes 350D)

Any experience on this?

 

[kennyd]

There is a free return on the tranny, but it has a plug in it now and it has BSPP threads, I can't be more specific now...sorry.

 

[David Berglund]

Ok great thanks!

If you could locate it on a picture to help me that would be just perfect!

 

[RG1]

Here's a link that has two other links in it. Maybe one of them has the picture of what you're looking for-


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/160900-adding-my-own-power-beyond.html

 

[David Berglund]

I might have missed out on something since they were long threads.

But what I mean is not how to arrange more circuits, but rather how to best run a fixed displacement hydraulic motor.

It would work just to plug it in but normally it's preferable to have a "free return" line (a line that connects directly to the gear case/oil reservoir without passing any valves) to reduce return flow resistance to optimize performance on such a system.

But again, I haven't seen any such attachments on any Deere CUT's but they are common on larger tractors as well as commercial mowers.

 

[kennyd]

PM sent David...

 

[David Berglund]

Thanks Kenny!

The developement on the tractor might seen to go in the wrong way. But it has happened what usually happens when I'm about to just repair something.

I mean how could I let some hidden rods stay rusty when I can give them a polish and send them off to the surface treaters.

I will however try to stop myself from disassembling much more, the motivation should preferably last until it is complete again. Spoke with the paint shop today and all red parts will be re-painted John Deere green to match the loader and since I'm secretly wishing it was in fact a JD tractor by brand not only by origin. The Yanmar stickers stays however I will not try to fake it.

 

[David Berglund]

 

[David Berglund]

A few more parts has ended up in the "finished for surface treatment" box today but the major occasion was when I were ower at the neighbors which is an actual tractor workshop, to borrow their heat-wash. So nice to continue to work when it's all clean and I will put some paint on these parts also before re-assembly.

 

[David Berglund]

Also on the topic of free return inlet, I found a possibility in the very middle of this pichure. Saw it first only just now when looking over the pictures so I haven't opened it to se what's unserneath. But I find it very likely that this is in fact a prepared free return port. Will check it out when I'm back at the shop.

 

[kennyd]

Also on the topic of free return inlet, I found a possibility in the very middle of this pichure. Saw it first only just now when looking over the pictures so I haven't opened it to se what's unserneath. But I find it very likely that this is in fact a prepared free return port. Will check it out when I'm back at the shop.

David, wow what great progress!
I believe that port is the one Jason used in the thread I directed to you to on the GTT forum.

 

[David Berglund]

On my tractor, behind the valve package, there is an spacer-plate with two plugged ports underneath.

Is this likely to be an allready factory installed part similar to the power beyon-part that I've seen around here?

I will remove the valva package to find out how it looks tomorrow or on monday but heres a picture that it can be seen if you look hard.

 

[kennyd]

David, that "spacer-plate" is factory installed on all the machines (4010, 4115, 4115, 2320, 2520, 2720...) but for some reason when you buy the PB kit form JD you get a second one, this is why many have just bought the special set/block off screw from JD and just made the rest of the "kit" themselves.

This is what the plates looks like:
View attachment 426061


(not sure why the pic is showing as a link?)